Narrative of a residence in Algiers: comprising a geographical and historical account of the regency; biographical sketches of the dey and his ministers; anecdotes of the late war; observations on the relations of the Barbary States with the Christian powers

^'

/

BOSTON UNIVERSITY

College of Liberal Arts
Library

GRADUATE SCHOOL
AFRICAN STUDIES

E JMBL . RAD Ci.

NARRATIVE

A RESIDENCE IN ALGIERS.

NARRATIVE

OF A

RESIDENCE IW ALGIERS;

COMPRISING

A GEOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE REGENCY;
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF THE DEY AND HIS MINISTERS;

^ncttinteé of m late smar ;

OBSERVATIONS

ON THE RELATIONS OF THE BARBARY STATES WITH THE CHRISTIAN POWERS;

AND THE NECESSITY AND IMPORTANCE OF THEIR COMPLETE SUBJUGATION.

BY

SIGNOR PANANTI.

WITH NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS
BY

EDWARD BLAQUIERE, Esq. R.N.

AUTHOR OF "LETTERS FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN.'

Obruat illud male partum, male retentnm, male gestum imperium. CICERO.
The fact is, we ourselves with a little cover, others more directly, pay a tn'btde to the Republic of Algiers;
and 1 for one do more than doubt the policy of this convention. BURKE, on a Regicide Peace.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR HENRY COLBURN, CONDUIT STREET.

1818.

q

W.Shackell, Printer,

linBon's-court, Fleet-stieet,

London.

i ^ r
£1^

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS

THE PRINCE REGENT,

«fc. 4-c. (^C.

Sir,

Amongst that host of exiles who found an asylum
against oppression, persecution, and tyranny in this country, during
the late unprecedented revolution, few seem to have felt a deeper
sense of gratitude for the protection afforded by Great Britain, and
none appreciated the proud pre-eminence of our civil and political
institutions over those of other nations, more highly, than the author
of the following Narrative.

Mr. Pananti is also the first emigrant, who has given unlimited
scope to those feelings of admiration, which are generally inspired
by an impartial view of our inestimable constitution. Unin-
fluenced by the little mind or sordid jealousy of others, the mere pri-
vilege of living in a free country, without sharing in the immediate
bounty of the sovereign, was enough to excite sentiments of the
warmest gratitude on the part of this liberal-minded Italian ; and I
am satisfied, that next to the gratification of having endeavoured to
sei-ve the paramount cause of himianity and justice, he will esteem the

BOSTON UNIVERSITY LIBRAEIES

VI DEDICATION.

high honour conferred on his work, in having the name of your Royal
Highness prefixed to it, as the greatest reward his literary labours
could attain ; and participating in these sentiments, I feel equally
flattered by so distinguished a privilege.

Warmly attached to the kingly power from principle, and
convinced by the experience of history, how much a constitutional
monarch may perform for the interests of humanity, the object of this
Dedication is that of soliciting the attention of your Royal Highness
to a subject, in which the energies of a free people may be most
usefully exerted in favour of the whole universe. While some
princes have laboured to acquire the terrific immortality of an Alex-
ander, a Caesar, and a Ghengis Khan ; others, animated by a more
legitimate love of fame, derive their glory fiom imitating the virtues
of an Aristides, a Trajan, and an Alfred. It is amidst the names
of the latter, I am desirous of seeing that of a British sovereign
inscribed ; and should the author's proposition to colonize Northern
Africa, be fortunately honoured with the support of your Royal High-
ness, none but those who are determined to oppose the progress of
knowledge and civilization, can deny it this elevated distinction.

Grateful for the condescension I experience in being permitted
to lay this work before your Royal Highness, I have the honour
to be, with sentiments of profound respect, and unfeigned loyalty.
Sir,
Your Royal Highness's most humble.
And most devoted Servant,

EDWARD BLAQUIERE.
London, April \Oth, 1818.

EDITORS PREFACE.

Of all those peculiarities which distinguish the present age, giving it
a marked superiority over every preceding period of our history, none
is so conspicuous, or more conducive to the interests of mankind, than
the very general curiosity excited by works of this nature ; and
although, like most others, they have a tendency to accumulate
beyond all reasonable limits, that should not militate against the
claims of any new candidate for public notice ; particularly if,
as in this instance, the author has endeavoured to make his book
the vehicle of important truths, while he offered a faithful picture
of the manners and customs of the people whom he professed to
describe.

In ushering, however, another quarto into the world, it would
be improper were I to omit some account of the motives which have
led to its publication.

vili EDITOR S PREFACE.

Having frequented the shores of Northern Africa during the late
war, those intervals of relaxation afforded from professional duties, were
devoted to the collection of all the useful information I could obtain
relative to the places I happened to visit : this was, in the first instance.
communicated to His Majesty's Government, and finally published,
with considerable additions, in 1812. Since that period, Mr. Pananti
is the only >vriter who has given a detailed account of a place to
which I had not a sufficient degree of access to allow of my including
it in the Letters from the Mediterranean. In regretting this
circumstance, I was, however, fully aware of its importance, on several
accounts, over the rest ; and therefore, determined to embrace the
first opportunity that presented itself, of bringing the subject before
the public. This was furnished by the industry and observation
of the above-named personage, whose melancholy stars led to his
being carried into Algiers as a slave ; and thus enabled him to give a
much more minute description of that Regency than has ever yet
appeared in Europe.

After those interesting events connected with the recent history
of Barbary, which rendered an account of Algiers a desideratum in
literature and politics, it will, I dare say, be considered as rather
fortunate, that such a writer should have had the means of eluci-
dating the present state of that country ; hitherto only known by the
lawless depredations of its unprincipled chiefs. Although this circum-
stance is alone sufiicient to excite a considerable degree of interest in
its favour, I should never have undertaken the humble ofiice of a
translator, did I not believe the author's labours had much greater
claims to the attention of the philosopher, politician, and man of
letters, than books of travels usually possess. In saying thus much.

EDITOR S PREFACE. IX

I am only performing an act of justice to Mr. Pananti, whose inde-
pendent spirit, and high sense of virtue, preclude the possibility of
his compiling a book for the sake of bettering his fortune, without
contributing to the improvement of his fellow creatures. Had the
author devoted his talents to the composition of a novel oi- romance,
there is little doubt, but that he would have stood a much better
chance of being remunerated for the pecuniary losses occasioned
by his captivity : having aspired to the high honour of dissemi-
nating knowledge of a more important nature than can possibly
result from works of fiction, he must be satisfied with that intellectual
reward which never fails to arise from an honest endeavour to serve
mankind.

Though it is evident that the author's principal object in pub-
lishing, was to call the serious attention of Europe to the necessity
and importance of colonizing Northern Africa, and, at all events,
to put an end to piracy, he was by no means indifferent to those
details which are calculated to amuse the general reader. It is hoped
these will be found to possess a sufficient degree of interest to render
them worth perusal; even should the more abstract reasonings be
regarded with indifference.

As this is the first prose work of any consequence which the
author has given to the public, its merits will not be particularly
enhanced by any praises which I might be disposed to bestow on his
poetical talents. However, these are such as to have placed Mr.
Pananti's name very high amongst the living poets of Italy. While
in England, where, rather than remain a passive spectator of his
country's degradation, he took shelter during the revolutionary storm;

b

X EDITORS PREFACE.

ill addition to many smaller pieces, he published two volumes, in
1809, entitled // Poeta di Teatro, descriptive of the state of our
Italian opera. This, in addition to local interest, contains many
digressions on the manners, customs, and events of the day, and is in
other respects distinguished by all that epigrammatic humour which
abounds in his earlier productions: many of these were published pre-
vious to his quitting Tuscany, and are justly celebrated in Italy.

Having experienced every difficulty which a total loss of his
property, the hardships of captivity, and a broken spirit could
produce, Mr. P. endeavoured to console himself on returning to
Florence, by compiling the following narrative ; and as stated in a
note prefixed to the second edition of the original, the transac-
tions which took place previous and subsequent to the attack under
Lord Exmouth, gave additional importance to his materials. How
the author has availed himself of this circumstance, it is for the public
to determine.

As all that occurred to Mr. Pananti on the subject of Africa,
together with the observations suggested by late events, are amply
detailed throughout his work, I have only to express an ardent hope
that they will produce some effect on the august personages who are
about to meet in Germany during the ensuing summer : for next to
the great question of South American independence, none demand
more serious consideration than that of Italy and the coast of
Barbary.

In paying a just tribute of applause to the author's political
principles, and the unrestrained liberality with which he treats the

editor's preface. ^i

important questions he has discussed, no less admiration is due to the
government of Tuscany and its mild censorship, which gave him so
wide a latitude for the dissemination of his sentiments. In fact, the
publication of such a work as the following, may be regarded as an
epoch in the history of Italy, and excites the more surprize, from
newspapers and other periodical works being generally under the
most peremptory restrictions in nearly all the Italian states.

With respect to the difference of arrangement, adopted in this
edition of Mr. Pananti's narrative, the division into chapters has the
advantage of being more familiar to us, while a degree of unity,
which seems wanting in the original, is given to the whole work.
Inimical to literal translation, from a conviction that no language on
earth is susceptible of an exact transcript into another, my chief
study in the following sheets, has been that of transfusing the author's
ideas into the idiom of our own country. Although, owing to diffi-
culties which must always arise on such occasions, I am not so vain
as to flatter myself with having attained this object in its fullest
extent ; it will be exceedingly gratifying to find, that some progress
has been made towards a design, which might, I think, be more gene-
rally adopted, without injuring the interests of literature, or diminish-
ing the number of readers.

To those who are not fond of quotations, I beg to observe, that
many in the original which appeared least calculated to create an
interest with the English reader have been suppressed; while a trans-
lation is added to the most material, and care has been taken that
none should interfere with the course of the narrative.

b 2

Ml EDITORS PREFACE.

The same motives which guided me in the translation, have also
dictated an occasional departure from the original, either by an
omission of whatever appeared not exactly suited to the taste of an
English reader, or had been already sufficiently illustrated by other
writers. This is another privilege which few will be disposed to deny
a translator, and if more freely exerci.sed, it could not fail to render an
essential service to the community.

If I am to believe those who have studied the public taste, in
matters of literature, an author may get over any difficulty, except
that of making people read his notes. A friend happening to suggest
this discouraging circumstance in the course of the following trans-
lation ; my reply was, that besides the text having in many places,
.seemed to require either commentary or illustration, readers were
jiot generally disposed to find fault with any remarks, which did not
appear to be inserted merely for the purpose of swelling up a volume.
I am not without a hope, that those who take the trouble of perusing
the share I have had in this, will acquit me of a charge like the
above ; while all are, of course, at liberty to pass it over, as not
interfering with the narrative, which it is solely intended to diversify,
by an occasional reference to a few subjects, that have hitherto
created no inconsiderable degree of public interest in this country.

Having, on my late return from the Continent, heard that tours
innumerable were in preparation, I have been deterred from any
attempt to make up one myself. But as it is scarcely possible for
the most ordinary observer, to visit France or Italy, without noticing
the singular spectacle exhibited by those two countries, after the

EDITORS PREFACB. ^»"

extraordinary vicissitudes of their recent history. I thought the
present a favourable opportunity to offer a few desultory remarks
on the above nations. Visiting the former, with a .strong preposses-
sion in favour of a people, whom I had principally known through
the medium of books ; it is needless to say, that in common with
many others, the.se were calculated to convey but a very limited
notion of the French character ; which requires to be closely
examined before it is thoroughly understood. If, like most of
our countrymen who have visited France, I have found less to
admire, than I at first anticipated; the circumstance does not
arise from prejudice on my part, or national hatred : some of the
facts which have given rise to the opinions promulgated in the
notes, are stated ; and if necessary, I am prepared to corroborate
them by many others. A wann admirer of those intellectual qua-
lities and that natural genius, which have placed France in the
first rank of civilized nations, I am not, for these reasons, called
upon to sacrifice the interests of truth, either for the sake of private
friendship, or the fear of censure. The whole tenor of my obser-
vations proves how highly 1 appreciate individual talent ; while it
was impossible to stifle my feelings, on seeing a nation, so capable
of all that is great and good, made the willing instrument of un-
principled factions, or false doctrines in philosophy. Hence the
little ceremony observed with regard to Buonaparte, whom I can
never cease to consider as one of the greatest enemies public liberty
has had in Europe ; and yet, unheard of anomaly, the revolutionary
faction wish for his return ! I !

I have in vain endeavoured to account for this most inexplicable

XIV EDITOR S PREFACE.

fatality ; which, Unnentable to reflect, has polluted some minds in
our own country. As any attempt to trace the cause of this won-
derful change in the opinion of some politicians, who thought so
diametrically opposite, while the Ex-Emperor was in power, would
lead me far beyond the limits of a preface, I will only add on this
subject, that those who wish to excite the sympathy of Europe in
his behalf, ought, at least, to inform the public in what way he has,
during his long and sanguinary reign, contributed to the repose or
happiness of mankind. Until this is done, I am fully justified in
cherishing the opinions, founded on a perfect recollection of his-
torical facts, which are given in the present publication. I am
by no means insensible to those talents which have led to Buona-
parte's being compared to the Alexanders and Caesars of former
days ; talents, which he invariably applied to obtain the same ends.
But these are the strongest reasons against suffering common sense to
be violated, by looking to such people for the salvation of liberty.
Without the smallest wish of impeding the progress of those exertions
in favour of the St. Helena exile, which go to soften the rigours of
his confinement, or even lead to his being transferred to a less solitary
region ; I cannot help considering the manner in which his public
character has been blazoned forth to the English people, as having
done incalculable mischief to the cause it was intended to promote.
Is it not the bounden duty of upright and unprejudiced political
writers, to warn the multitude against the frightful consequences of
elevating any more military leaders to rule over them Ì And yet, we
have seen those, who make an open profession of patriotism, inscribe
odes, and write panegyrics on Napoleon Buonaparte ! As this admi-
ration is neither justified by wisdom nor prudence, it can only be

EDITOR S PREFACE. aV

regarded as one of those palpable absurdities, and fatal errors, which
sometimes lead men astray against the evidence of their senses ; and
on this account, I trust, we shall learn to look to a more legitimate
source of bettering the condition of nations, than by the renewal of
military despotism in Europe. And how justly might not the pro-
phetic interrogatories of M. de Calonne be repeated to those, who
are still labouring to bring back the evils of anarchy in France :—
" Qu'il est funeste l'art de tromper le peuple! et quel execrable
usage les perturbateurs de la France n'en ont ils pas fait? Nation
spirituelle, aimable, généreuse, à qui il ne manque que de réfléchir
davantage! Jusques à quand vous laisserez-vous aveugler? Jusquesà
quand serez-vous le jouet d'un association d'intrigans, d'enthusiastes
et de dupes I "

While I was taught to attribute the moral and political evils of
France to causes purely local; those of persecuted and ill-fated Italy,
seemed to arise from the ceaseless avidity and rapacious ambition of
foreign invaders. The abuses of religion have no doubt had consider-
able share in adding to the misfortunes of that interesting country;
but however inclined the Italians may be to encourage vicious habits,
their capability of improvement, and disposition to adopt liberal insti-
tutions, could never be fairly estimated while shackled by so many
oppressions, which left no choice between slavery and subjection.

Impressed with these important truths; grateful for the blessings
conferred on the rest of Europe by that intellectual fire which has
never ceased to burn in the climate of Italy ; penetrated with sorrow
at the impoverished and degraded state of the people, which can

XVI EDITOR S PREFACE.

only be meliorated by the adoption of a more liberal and enlightened
policy than has been hitherto resorted to, I was unwilling to lose
this opportunity of submitting a few thoughts on the subject to
the public. Unaided either by the talents or influence which
many English travellers who visited Italy last year possessed, my
desultory and unconnected remarks have nothing to recommend them
but truth. It is with this conviction, and my anxiety to avert
those evils likely to arise from that political system so justly
apostrophised —

Monstrum horrendum, informe, ingens, cui lumen adeptum !

which Italy now presents, that I have ventured to subjoin the
note at the end of the volume, in the hope of its attracting the
attention of those who have more ample means of illustrating the
important subjects to which it alludes. Should my feeble efforts
happily awaken the literati of this country to a just sense of what they
owe to that of Dante, Petrarch, and Galileo, I am thoroughly con-
vinced the great powers of Europe will not be appealed to in vain, by
an energetic and dignified expression of that opinion which has been
so often and successfully exerted in the cause of truth and humanity.

Although some years have elapsed since I have ventured to
appear before the public in the character of a writer, I cannot
forget the extreme liberality with which my first literary effort was
received. In returning my best thanks to those gentlemen who were
kind enough to notice a book, written with precisely the same object
as the present, that of serving the European community, I cannot
pay them a more flattering compliment, than by observing, that the

EDITOR S PREFAC E. XVll

matter it contained appeared sufficiently ijnportant to cause the defects
of style and composition to be overlooked. Having said thus much,
it is but fair to add, that these remarks are not made with any view
to avert the salutary eye of criticism.

However I may have failed in doing justice to the original, it is
hoped the typographical and ornamental partof this volume will meet
the reader's approbation. Both the View of Algiers, and Plan of the late
Attack, are from the designs of a distinguished amateur artist, who has
had every facility of doing justice to his subject: so that independent
of their merits as specimens of art, their accuracy may be depended on.
The Map has also many pretensions to correctness. It was originally
drawnby a person long resident in Algiers, andhas received considerable
additions from others of a more recent date in my own possession.

Having thus endeavoured to give the reader an idea of what he
is to expect from a perusal of the following pages, much more might
be said in extenuation of the numerous sins of omission and commission,
which will no doubt be laid to the author's charge, as well as to that
of his very inadequate translator ; but it is high time to conclude : and
as the ingenious and learned author of Vulgar Errors, says, " We are
unwilling to spin out our waking thoughts into the Phantasms of
Sleep, which often continueth Precogitations, making Cables of
Cobwebs, and Wildernesses of handsome Groves. And lastly,"
by way of reply to criticism, " we are not Magisterial in opinions,
nor have we Dictator-like obtruded our conceptions ; but in the
humility of enquiries or disquisitions have only proposed them unto
more ocidar discerners. And therefore, opinions are free, and open it is
for any one to think or declare the contraiy I"

c

platee

WHICH ILLUSTRATE THIS WORK.

1. A Picturesque View of Algiers to face the Title.

2. Map of the Regency of Algiers, Page 101

3. Plan of the City and Fortifications of Algiers, and of the Stations

taken by the Combined Fleets, under the Command of Lord Exaiouth at the
Attack, on the 27th August, 1816 393

AUTHORS PREFACE.

lilFE is a book, says Goldsmith, of which he, whose observations
have been merely confined to his native country, has only read a
single page ; and travellers are aptly compared to those streams,
which become grand and more majestic, in proportion as they wander
from their original sources, increasing their salutary and useful qua-
lities as they proceed. Hence, enterprizing individuals, anxious to
improve themselves, and add to the knowledge of others, have not
been deterred in their favourite pursuit, either by the Polar ice, or the
burning sun of the Equator, the lofty summits of the Andes, or
unfrequented waters of the Southern Ocean. There is, however, one
quarter of the globe, which has, hitherto, terrified many, and baflled
the utmost efforts of the most resolute adventurers ; and that is Africa.
Nearly all those who have ventured into this highly interesting con-
tinent, have either found a melancholy grave, or encountered the
greatest personal calamities ; and the public has had successively to
deplore the premature fate of Houghton, Horneman, Park, Roent-
gen, and several others. The access to this extraordinary region is
impeded by a thousand obstacles and difficulties, almost unknown to
other quarters. Without many deep rivers or inland seas, Africa
seems, as it were, closed to the genius of commerce and navi-
gation; the Senegal, Niger, and Gambia, its principal streams,
instead of passing over regular and even countries, are frequently

c2

XX AUTHOR S PREFACE.

interrupted by rapid falls, ridges of rocks and shallows, v, liich render
it nearly inij>ossible for vessels of tlie smallest size to ascend them :
so that, whether we consider its variou-; inequalities of soil and climate,
extensive deserts and vast solitudes, mostly infested by venomous
reptiles, or more ferocious beasts of prey ; the infinite diversity of
tribas which inhabit its surface, from the uncultivated savages of
CafFraria and Angola, to the bigoted Mahometan or relentless Abys-
sinian, all equally inimical to friendly intercourse with strangers ;
innumerable perils are still opposed to the candidate for African
discovery; which it is of the utmost importance to diminish, by pro-
secuting those researches and enquiries, illustrative of the manners
and customs of the more civilized parts, between which and the
interior, a constant intercourse is known to be kept up ; possessing the
additional advantage of being liable to iewer interruptions, than
have been so lamentably experienced in attempting to penetrate from
other quarters.

By far the most beautiful j)art of Africa, that nearest to Europe ;
a country which was once the abode of a polished and civilized
people; that from whence, rather than Sierra Leone or Egypt, it
would be least difficult to trace the source of the Niger, and follow its
course, or pass into other parts of the interior, as proved by the progress
of the Romans ; a country rich in classic recollections, and the choicest
productions of nature ; which, in other days, contained the intellect
tual spirit of Greece and Rome, filling the granaries of the latter;
which, united by commercial and political ties, is still abundantly
capable of ministering to the wants and luxuries of the European
family : such is the immense and fertile coast of Barbary, which, by
a singular fatality, is still in possession of a race, the most cruel and
inhospitable. This extensive region, divided into nominal kiigdoms, is

AUTHOR S PREFACE. XXI

governed by a set of monsters, who vie with each other in tlie deepest
hatred and bitterest hostility towards Christianity and civilization.
Thus placing a ruinous barrier between two great divisions of the
earth ; and, as many have truly said, been hitherto the principal, and
perhaps only cause of Africa's being so inaccessible to Europeans.

But now that the affairs of the world are re-established on their
ancient basis ; when the great monarchs of Europe are united in
holy alliance, doubtless with the paternal design of perpetuating the
pure doctrines, and rational morality of the Evaugeli.sts ; now that
the reign of peace, and dominion of justice has once more illumined
the political horizon ; it is surely incompatible with such beneficent
views, any longer to tolerate self-appointed chiefs of banditti, under
the specious title of regular governments ; whose characteristic bru-
tality, and lawless violence, is constantly occupied in disturbing the
domestic happiness and moral order of society. Such a supposition
is as repugnant to the interests of humanity, as it is to the progress
of knowledge, and pre-eminently enlightened character of the pre-
sent age.

Reason and political wisdom cannot any longer permit such
numerous hordes of plunderers to exercise their depredations with
impunity, in the centre of the globe, bordering upon all that is
refined and estimable in our nature ; and that benign philosophy
which has abolished the iniquitous traffic of our black fellow creatures,
is loudly called upon to banish a still greater evil, the slavery of the
whites ! The voice of friendly admonition has been vainly reiterated
to those governments, and a terrible example made of the most guilty.
But can we place any permanent reliance on the oft plighted and
more often broken faith of such monsters Ì Is peace the interest of

xxii author's preface.

governments, whose very establishment is founded upon the law of the
strongest, plunder and proscription? It is indeed sincerely to be
wished that a long and perpetual one may continue towards the debi-
litated states of Italy, and unprotected Hanse Towns. But it is also
of the first consecjuence to become thoroughly acquainted with the
objects of our just apprehension : in order clearly to ascertain the
best measures of precaution against their machinations, let us besides
keep in mind the crying injuries we have for so long a period expe-
rienced at the hands of these merciless people, as another means of
guarding against future aggression.

Under all these considerations, it will not perhaps be either
useless or uninteresting to narrate the circumstances attending a late
voyage to the inauspicious coast of Barbary, made by a person, who
was transported thither by one of those dreadful calamities, which, to
the shame of civilization, human nature has been for many centuries
doomed ineffectually to deplore. In the following pages the author
proposes to describe what he has witnessed, and draw as faithful a
picture as he can of the melancholy scenes and dreadful atrocities
which his evil genius destined him to see in one of the piratical states.
Those parts of his work which relate to government, manners and
customs, or the interior which he had no opportunity of visiting, are
derived from the best and most intelligent authorities he could find
during his residence in Algiers; and he is only induced to offer them
from a conviction of their authenticity. The whole is submitted to the
public with those imperfections which are, no doubt, profusely scat-
tered through the work ; but however multiplied these may be, the
author confidently relies on the impartiality of its decision in favour of
a book written for the sole purpose of aiding the cause of religion,
justice, and humanity.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Memoirs. — Origin of the Voyage. — Fatal Delay. — Thames. — The Ocean. — Con-
tinuance of the Voyage. — Rencontre. — Coast of Fez. — Straits and Bay of
Gibraltar. — Passage up the Mediterranean. — Arrival at the Island of San
Pietro I

CHAPTER II.

Imprudent Departure from San Pietro. — Presentiments. — Appearance of the
Algerine Squadron. — Captured by the Pirates. — Captives taken before the Grand
Rais or Admiral. — First Night on board the Corsair. — Second Day. — Storm. —
Naval Engagement. — Union of the Captives. — Treatment on board the Corsairs of
Barbary. — Situation improved. — Hope.— The Rais Hamida. — Coast of Italy. —
Council of War. — Dispute between Tunis and Algiers. — Historical Notice of
Tunis. — Revolution there. — The Squadron appears before Tunis, and retires. —
Coasting, and Arrival at Bona 27

CHAPTER III.

Arrival in Algiers. — Landing. — Appearance before the Heads of the Government.
— Prison of the Slaves. — First Day in Slavery. — The Employment. — Hours of
Repose. — Public Works. — Liberation. — Arrival at the British Consulate.— Lost
Riches. — Still greater Losses. — Consolations. — Unfortunate Companions. — Mode
of living at Algiers 64

tONTENTS

CHAPTER IV.

Christian Slavery iu ALGIERS. — Its pliysical and moral Effects. — Observations on the
Ransom and Liberation effected by the Expedition under Lord Exmouth. —
Remarks on the various Accounts of Barbary hitherto published. — Object and
Motives of the Author in laying his Account before the Public, &c

CHAPTER V.

Barbary. — Derivation of its Name. — Soil, and Climate. — Short View of its general
History, and of Algiers in particular. — Geographical Description. — Monuments
and Remains of Antiquity. — The Capital described 101

CHAPTER VI.

Fossils, Minerals, and other natural Productions of Barbary. — Trees and Vege-
tables.— The Lotus and Palm Tree.— Domestic Animals. — The Barb, Camel, and
Dromedary. — Wild Animals. — Birds, Reptiles, Scorpions, and Locusts 116

CHAPTER VII.

Desert of Angad. — Hardships in crossing the Sahara, or Great Desert. — Caravans.

The Simoom. — Various Phenomena attending it. — Columns of Sand. — The

Oasis. — Temple of Ammon. — Consolations in the Desert. — Mount Atlas. —
Country South of it, &c

139

CHAPTER VIII.

Different People of Barbary.— Blacks.— Jews.— Christians.— Renegadoes.— Turks.
—Chiloulis.— Berberi.— Bedouin Arabs.— Their Mode of Living.— Male and
Female Costume.— Various Superstitions. — Occupations of the Arabs. — Riches.
— Marriages among them. — Characteristic Anecdotes 1^3

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

Account of the Kabiles and Arab Tribes.— The Hiraas.— Tents.— Dowers.— Encamp-
ments.—Dascars, or Arab Villages.— The Sheiks. — The Plundering Arabs.—
Anecdotes respecting them 1^1

CHAPTER X.

Description of the Moors.— Their Figure and Character.— Male and Female Costume.
—Head Dress and Toilet.— Habitations.— Particular Manners and Customs.-r
Marriages amongst the Moors, &c 196

CHAPTER XI.

Funeral Ceremonies and Lamentations over the Dead in Barbary. — Mourning of
Widows. — Vows of Friendship and Fidelity made on the Graves of departed Rela-
tives.— Table of the Moors. — Cuscousu. — Pillaw and Basseen. — Use of Sugar and
Spices. — Yemen Coffee. — Amusements of the Moors. — Method of enticing Birds.
— Chess, and other Games of Chance. — Social Meetings. — The Kiosco. — Barber's
Shops. — Moorish Baths. — Mode of Bathing.— Baths frequented once a Week by
the Women. — Singers, and Dancing Girls. — Itinerant Story Tellers. — The Bastinado.
—Life of the rich Moor 215

CHAPTER XII.

Moorish Beauty. — Eyes and Features, Corpulency, and Mode of Fattenmg up before
Marriage. — Criterion to judge of a fine Woman. — Complexion. — Embellishments
extraordinary. — Comparison with European Ladies. — Vanity the ruling Principle.
— Unhappy Condition of the Women in Barbary ; their State of Servitude and ill
Treatment. — Ideas of the Moors with regard to their Creation. — Their premature
old Age. — Their Jealousy. — Ridiculous Precautions to prevent Women from being
seen or spoken to. — Inevitable Consequence of being discovered in an Intrigue. —
Story of a Tunisian Lady.- -Susceptibility and Power of Love. — Moorish Houses
favourable to Intrigue. — Argusses occasionally outwitted. — Affectionate Conduct

of the Moorish Ladies towards their Husbands, &c 232

d

CONTENT».

CHAPTER XIII.

state of Agriculture in Algiers.— Imperfect Mode of Ploughing.— Wiue.— Butter.—
Oil.— Olive Trees.— Method of enriching the Land.— Different Trades and Manu-
factures. Otto of Roses. — Commerce. — Exports and Imports. — Traffic with the

Interior of Africa.— Method of Dealing.— Circulating Medium.— Clipping.—
Letters and Sciences. — Arab Writers.— Hints on Civilization.— Anecdote. — The
Pen.— The Alfagui.— Their Pedantry.— The Thibibs.— Medical Treatment in
Barbary. — Anecdotes, &c 246

CHAPTER XIV.

State of the Arts in Barbary.— Curious Cement and Glue.— Languages of Northern
Africa.— Anecdote.— Moorish Music— Different Instruments.— Singing.— Islam-
ism.— Ridiculous Customs.— Strict Observance of Fasts.— Sanctuary afforded by
Mosques, .&c.— Holy City.— Paradise of Musselmen.— Pilgrimage to Mecca.—
Order of the March, and Allusion to the Ceremonies performed there.— Marabouts.
—Anecdote.— Vaili, or Saints, their Hypocrisy illustrated.— Facility of being
canonized in Barbary.— The Mufti.— Their Office and Powers.— Mode of deciding
legal Questions and administering the Laws.— The Imans.— The Muezzins, and
Hours of Prayer.— The Koran.— Short Analysis of its Contents.— Anecdote of
Dorat, the French Poet.— Commentators on the Koran, &c ...263

CHAPTER XV.

Nature of the Algerine Government.- -Its Character.— The Regency.— Divan.—
Power of the Dey.— His Election, and Mode of conducting it.— Attributes and
Prerogatives of the Dey.— Method of administering Justice.— Cause of his Popu-
larity.—Dangers which environ a Dey's Person. — Anecdotes of some late Chiefs.
—Fascinations of Power and Ambition.— Reply of a Polish Monarch.— Account
of Ali Bassa, the reigning Dey.— His Death.— Anecdotes.— Notice of All's Suc-
cessor, Mezouli.— Omar Aga.— The Council of State.— By whom it is generally
composed.— Effects of a Dey's being dethroned.— Various Political Reflections.—
Account of the different OflBcers composing the Dey's Administration.— Mode of
the Consuls applying for Redress. — Description of inferior Officers.— General
Character of the Dey's Ministers.— Remarks.— Anecdotes, &c 286

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

The Divan. — Its Character as a representative Body. — By whom composed. — Mode
of assembling. — Discussion, and Collection of the Votes. — Revenues. — The Beys.
— Their Rapacity. — Dey's Policy with regard to them. — The Caids, and their
numerous Oppressions. — Account of the Chiaux, or Dey's Messengers. — Their
Influence on the Multitude. — Reflections on Laws and Government. — Algerine
Code.— The Cadi.— Their Appointment and Functions. — Civil Process in Barbary.
— Ignorance of the Judges, and novel Mode of deciding Causes. — Remarks and
Anecdotes.— Criminal Process. — Punishments inflicted for various Crimes. — Con-
sequences of Adultery and Infidelity in the Females. — Punishment of Treason.
— Debtors. — How treated.— Anecdote of Ibrahim Dey.— Effect of the Dey's
personal Administration of Justice. — Anecdote of Cheban Dey.— Defects of the
Algerine Law. — Excessive Severity of some Punishments. — Police Regulations of
Algiers. — Nightly Patroles. — Espionage and Informers. — Subterfuges of arbitrary
Power

CHAPTER XVII.

Fmancial System of Algiers. — Various Modes of raising Money. — Hints to modern
Financiers. — The Hasena, or public Treasury. — Reflections on the Advantages of
hoarding. — Different Sources of the Dey's Revenue. — His praiseworthy For-
bearance.— Anecdote of a Persian Prince. — Thoughts on the Use of Public Money.
— Military Force of Algiers. — The Oldack, and Ortes. — Zouavi. — The Aga.
— His Functions, and Mode of being replaced. — Account of the Aga del Campo,
and Caia. — Mode of rewarding the Services of old Officers in Algiers. — Their
Privileges. — Boulouc Bashas, and Vekilardi. — Method of obtaining Rank and Pro-
motion under the Algerine Government.- -Cursory Ideas on the Subject of Military
Regulations in all Countries. — Quarters and Allowance of the Soldiery.— Their
Pay. — Punctuality with which the Arrears are paid. — Ceremony observed on
these Occasions. — Gradual Increase of the Soldier's Remuneration. — Different
Modes of adding to it, and his Prospect of future Repose. — Account of the Algerine
Army. — By whom composed. — Bedouin Cavalry. — Annual Operations to collect
the Tribute, plunder the Tribes, &c. — Punishments awarded by the Caia. —
Order of the March. — General Treatment of the Soldiery. — Its Effects. — Qualities
of the Dey's Army. — Its Operations left to the Direction of the General. — Councils
of War. — Mode of Encamping, and Order of Battle. — Method of attacking, and
d 2

CONTENTS.

re-forming when put into Disorder. — General Character of the Algerine Soldiers.
— Anecdote of an Italian Chief. — Character of the Turkish Militia. — Their Power
over the Moorish Population. — Reflections. — Allusion to the Victories of Cheban
Dey. — Characteristics of the Janizaries. — The various Advantages enjoyed by them
over other Soldiers of Fortune 326

CHAPTER XVIII.

Piracy. — The natural State of the Barbary Governments. — Their Political Maxims.
— Their Interest in going to War. — Mode of declaring it, and making Reprisals.
— Treatment of European Consuls and Subjects. — Method of justifying their
Policy with respect to Foreign Powers. — Mode of carrying on Hostilities. — Argu-
ment in favour of it. — Northern Africa always the Retreat and Abode of Pirates.
— Cursory View of their Depredations. — Of Captures. — Their Sale, and Distribution
of Prize Money. — Mode of disposing of Slaves. — The Basistan. — Tegorarini —
Occupation of Christian Captives. — Of Ransoming. — The Fathers of Redemption,
or Trinity.— Their mode of proceeding in Algiers. — Efforts of the Author and
others to promote the Liberation of Sicilian Slaves. — Allusion to the Exertions
of the British Government to emancipate them. — Remarks in praise of
the Conduct of those Italian Sovereigns, who have made Peace with the Barbary
Powers. — Various useful Hints to those who become Slaves. — Best Time of
escaping. — Probable Result of a well organized Combination amongst the
Christian Slaves at Algiers.— Observations, &c 343

CHAPTER XIX.

Military and Naval Power of the Barbary States. — Tripoly. — Morocco. —
Thoughts on the Views of the latter State. — Relations of the above States with
Algiers and each other. — Origin of their Independence. — Influence of the
Ottoman Porte over the Barbarians. — Nature of its Relations with them. —
Various Reflections on the Grand Seignor's Policy. — State of Political Relations
between the Pirates and different European Governments 359

CHAPTER XX.

Departure from Algiers. — Feelings on quitting Companions in Misfortunes. —
Passage to Minorca.— Arrival at Port Mahon. — Entrance into the Lazzaretto. —
-anecdote of a modern Traveller.— Theatrical Scenes. — Liberal Conduct of an

CONTENTS. ^^i^

PAGE^.

Knglish Consul.— Some Account of Minorca, and those with whom the Author
Ijecarae acquainted there.— Sir Sidney Smith.— Embarks on board an English Ship.
—Passage to Sicily, and Arrival in Palermo.— Various Reflections on the
Civil and Political State of the above Island.— Departure from Sicily.— Reflec-
tions during the Voyage.— Arrival at Ponza, together with some Account of that
Island.— Return to Tuscany and Reflections suggested by it 369

CHAPTER XXI.

Recent Conduct and new Insults of the Barbary Powers.— Negociations of Lord
Exmouth, and General Sir Thomas Maitland.— Bombardment of Algiers.— Sub-
mission of the Dey.— Observations on the Treaties lately made between the Euro-
pean Powers and Barbary States.— Remarks on the Conduct of Great Britain,
compared w^ith that of other Governments.— Singular Enigma.— Reflections sug-
gested by it.— Necessity of taking greater Precautions than those already adopted.
—How far we are justified in relying on the Faith of Treaties.— Morality of a
Barbary Chief.— His Motto.— Actual Disposition of these Powers, manifested by
their general Conduct

CHAPTER XXII.

Italy more exposed than ever to the Depredations of the Barbary Corsairs. — Conse-
quences of no more Captives being made.— Prisoners of War.— Their probable
Treatment by the Barbarians.— Illustrations.— Necessity, Justice, and Utility of
more powerful Measures.— Various Reflections ; and Anecdote of an English Sea-
man.—Importance to Europe of colonizing Northern Africa.— Its amazing Fecun-
dity. Facility of penetrating into the Interior from that Direction.- Splendor of

the Enterprize. — Its Advantages to Antiquarian Research, Science, and the useful
Arts. — Observations, &c • ^^^

CHAPTER XXIII.

Difficulties likely to attend the Enterprize. — Remarks on the Moorish Character.
— Ob.servations on the Result of those Expeditions hitherto sent against the Infidels.
—Want of Union, and popular Nature of the Barbary Governments favourable

XXX CONTENTS.

PAGlv.

to an invadiug Army.— Reasons why the Moors are not likely lo adhere to the
Fortunes of their present Rulers.— As easy for the united Powers of Europe to
colonize Northern Africa, as it was for single Nations of other Times to do so.—
Hints to an invading Force.— Best Time to effect a Landing.— Kind of Warfare
most adapted to Africa.— Necessity of Perseverance.— Importance of calling in the
Aid of Political Intrigue.— Comparison between the Moors and savage Nations.—
Probability of the former's adopting European Manners and another Religion.—
Singular Tradition prevalent in Barbary.— Recollections by which an European
Army would be animated on landing in Africa. — Why that part of the World is not
as susceptibleof undergoing a great political Change as other Countries.— Necessity
of employing a sufficient Force, and of the Powers of Europe being unanimous in
the Cause.— Nations that ought to direct the League.— Reflections 41';

CHAPTER XXIV.

Author's Motives for proposing the Colonization of Northern Africa.— Most equi-
table Line of Policy to be pursued, should a Descent ever be made in that Country.
—Anecdote and Reflections.— Appeal to Princes, Ministers, People, Philosophers,
Orators, Poets, and periodical Writers of every Country.— Eulogium on the Anti-
Piratical Institution.— Conclusion ^^-

NARRATIVE

A VOYAGE TO ALGIERS.

CHAPTER I.

Memoirs. — Origin of the Voyage. — Fatal Delay. — -Thames. — The Ocean. —
Continuance of the Voyage. — Rencontre. —Coast of Fez. — Straits and Bay
o/ Gibraltar. — Passage vp the Mediterranean. — Arrival at the Island of
San Pietro.

We are daily in the habit of hearing people exclaim : " What
strange adventures mine have been ! Why, Sir, my life is a per-
fect romance! I have really a great mind to write my history!"
When those who have played an important part in the theatre of life,
and made sublime experiments on fortune, fall from power and splen-
dor, they naturally enough become a prey to ennui : in order, how-
ever, to shed a little light on the obscurity of their retreat, to pre-
serve some recollection of that name, glory, and even life ; which,
to use the expression of Pope, seems to breathe from other lips ; they
take to writing their warlike and political actions — and being no lon-
ger able to wield the sword or staff of office, have recourse to the
pen : removed from the worldly stage, by choice or necessity, they
assume the more modest part of authors. Hence the numberless vo-
lumes constantly appearing with the flattering titles of Memoirs, His-
torical, PoUfical and Military ; including- the campaigns of (lene-

E

2 MEM01R8.

rat **-^J^*, written by himself. Mes rejìexions, mon portefeuille,
mcs pcnsées, mes souvenirs ! &c.

Far from being able to boast of public notoriety, I have found
myself fallen to the lowest ebb of fortune, and shall accordingly de-
tail my ill-fated adventures ; but the following narrative will only
include a short period, which was, however, the most tempestuous of
my whole life, if that which has been so fraught with struggles and
calamity is worthy of the name ! A certain people of antiquity only
counted their days of happiness; amongst whom, a wise man on
the point of death, wrote this epitapli for himself: I have passed
/ifttf-six years, and lived four ! All who contend in the stormy
sea of human vicissitude, may be compared to those emblems of
alternate happiness and miser\% who, after having tasted nectar, at
the table of the gods, sorrowfully descended into the region of
shadows ; joy and pleasure passes over the heart like the transient
breath of zephyrs ; while it is furrowed by endless griefs and bitter
cares.

Shakspear has somewhere obsei-ved, that felicity comes slowly,
and in silence, advancing on tiptoe like a nocturnal visitant ; while
misfortune attacks in close battalions, those, who are destined to be
the victims of its inflexible decrees.

Man is a cpierulous and dissatisfied animal ! The most common
exclamations of the day are, " Oh, what times! What places! What
people! What women! What devils!" We are always tired of the
situation in which we are, and vainly wishing to be where we are
not. By a strange fatality, connected with that love of change so
peculiar to our nature, it occurred to myself, and a few others of my
countrymen to abandon England; that envied nation, which has
alone remained unshaken, amidst the political agitations of surround-
ing states, and generously opened its bosom to the exiled wanderers
of other countries, equally fostering the native plant, and foreign
stem, blown upon its coast by the revolutionary tempest. Yes! anx-
ious once more to behold my native land, and breathe the delightful

ORIGIN OF THE VOYAGE. -J

air of an Italian sky, I no longer remembered the words of a
celebrated poet that,

Bramo di meglio star, rende infelice;

or, that we can no where be so well situated as amongst our friends.
It was reserved for me to learn, by bitter experience, that happiness
has its source within ourselves, and does not proceed from without ;
but we do not know how to collect the pure stream, or direct its natu-
ral and easy course. It is said, that an eastern monarch once offered
a large reward to any of his subjects, who would come before him
and swear they had enjoyed constant happiness : two persons presented
themselves, a husband and his wife ; these attested that, united by
the tender ties of matrimony, their felicity had long equalled that of the
golden age, and they were perfectly reconciled to their condition. " If
so," replied the king, " and you are as happy as you pretend to be,
you would not have come in search of my proffered riches ; no,
you have wants, desires, and ambition ; go, therefore, you are not
the fortunate beings I look for, and for whose appearance I shall
most likely have yet to wait a long time."

The project was at first a mere fugitive idea ; one of those fancies
which often obtrude themselves to fill up a blank in the cold mono-
tony of life. It would, like many others of a similar description,
have fallen to the ground, if more maturely considered, had not
two false and interested friends, of whom there are so many, ever
ready to betray the incredulous, stimulated the execution, and
finally succeeded, by pretexts the most specious and absurd, in per-
suading me to sacrifice friends, fortune, and tranquillity, for the de-
lusive hope of futui-e advantage, destined, alas ! to terminate in niin
and disappointment. I have heard of a literary character, who kept
a small book, which he called the " catalogue of his friends,'' on
the first page was written Heart, with two or three names under it ;
the second had Table on it ; and the third Purse. The fiiends of the

B 2

4 FATAL DELAY.

table and purse had been very numerous, but were at'terwards erased,
on the fourth page was inscribed Masks, the names which followed
filled the rest of the book ; those of our friends who are attracted by the
table and purse, may, with propriety, be placed under the fourth
article of the catalogue. The proverb says, where mi/ friends are,
there is my treasure. It might be added, that sycophants only
offer their friendship where something is to be gained. Such
were the motives which actuated the persons to whom I am indebted
for an opportunity of penning these memoirs. To a candid and
honourable mind, in which suspicion has no place, nothing is so diffi-
cult to <;onceive, as the ingratitude of one whom you have assisted.
I will not, however, deny the extent and Aveakness of my own cre-
dulity ; and having sutfered the fatal consequences of bad advice,
merely wish to warn others by my example, qui ne suit se rtsoudre
aux conseils, s'ahandonne ; and according to a Chinese proverb, the
fool asks other people to explain the cause of his errors, while the
wise man enquires within himself.*

From the superior accommodations, and its various other advan-
tages, I had of course determined to take my passage in a British vessel ;
but this design was frustiated, by the officious zeal and baleful soli-
citude of my imaginary friends, who, by many arguments, which it is

* In this part of the original work, there is a very long note, in which the author
minutely enters into a variety of little details, relative to the perfidious conduct of those
people, who persuaded him to leave England ; at a time when his interests could not have
been better consulted than by remaining there. And although written with all the humo-
rous energy of Mr. Pananti's pen, I have not thought it sufficiently connected with the great
object of his memoirs, to be introduced in the translation. From what has been said, he
may safely calculate upon the warmest sympathy of a nation, whose virtues he has so
generously appreciated; and the paramount force of self-approbation must ultimately ena-
ble him to look down with a mixture of pity and contempt on his betrayers. Sincerely
anxious to promote his happiness, I am sure the introduction of too much matter, purely
of a personal nature, into a work of this description, could not in any way tend to that
desirable object, while it mightf/es/roy, in some measure , the interest which its perusal will,
I trust, be found calculated to excite in the English reader. — Ed.

BEGGING PAllDON. ò

now unnecessary to relate, prevailed on me to embark on board a
Sicilian brig bound to Palermo, which was to sail with the tirst
Mediterranean convoy, and this had already began to collect at Spit-
head. Having, therefore, made the usual preparations for a sea voy-
age, I hastened to join the other passengers, who were embarked at
Gravesend, and liad scarcely occupied my birth on board, when the
master, without assigning any reason whatever, returned to London,
and remained there three whole days, leaving us all in a state of the
most ])ainful anxiety, as to the alarming consequences that might
result from the convoy's quitting Portsmouth before our arrival there.
At length, when patience was exhausted, and we began seriously to
think some accident had befallen our hero, he condescended to make
his appearance, and, with a superficial apology, in which patience
and resignation were modestly inculcated, resumed his nautical avo-
oations. Thus, it too frequently happens with those who, like us, have
committed themselves to- the mercy of some ignorant merchant cap-
tain, and, without a previous enquiry into his character, been even
prevailed on to advance the passage-money before sailing ; to which
circumstance we might with great justice attribute our ultimate hard-
ships and disasters. Referring to the unblushing impudence of this
man, in having thus attempted to excuse himself for keeping us wait-
ing, while he ^>'as occupied in playing the fine gentleman on the
pave of the metropolis, it is also a stiiking illusti-ation of the extreme
facility with which most people become reconciled to themselves,
without a very scrupulous regard to the feelings of others ; every
thing is now accommodated by the laconic phrase of: " / beg your
pardon .'" Does any one jostle up against you in the street, and en-
danger a limb, he l>egs pardon and passes on, as if nothing had hap-
pened. Another makes you wince again, by unmercifully treading on an
ill-fated corn: this is coolly compromised by, "really. Sir, I humbly
beg pardon, but I didn't mean it!" If in argument any one takes the
words out of your mouth, and by a flat contradiction, plausibly gives
you the lie, he merely begs pardon : so it is with the intruder on your

6 A P.RAVE SKIPPER.

stuflies, or more importunate creditor; all in this AvorUl is rendered
palatable by asking pardon, and I am even obliged to solicit that of
the reader, for this unseasonable digression.

While thus impatiently looking forward to the moment of sailing,
what was our mortification on seeing the departure of the convoy
announced? The so much dreaded event, which at once exposed us
to the danger of crossing the ocean w ithout protection, and liable to
capture by numerous enemies, our only consolation in this dilemma,
was a pompous oration from the skipper, who differed from us in toto
as to the perils of our impending situation, and triumphantly con-
cluded several impertinent remarks, by drawing his own pane-
gyric, in which after deiiding our childish apprehensions, he repre-
sented himself as a most experienced seaman, and so excellent a
navigator, that in addition to his perfect knowledge of the winds,
stars, latitudes, and longitudes, he recollected all the bays, headlands,
rocks, and shoals in our course, as well as his avemaria ! He doubt-
less, in tliis moment of exultation, fancied himself another Typhis;
and like Ctesar seemed to imagine that his fortune would carry us
through every difficulty. Without entering into the merits of this
boaster, we soon after had many opportunities of witnessing the usual
effect of pride and presumption ; for notwithstanding all his gascon-
ading, he was guilty of innumerable Ijlunders during the whole course
of the voyage. That which a Parisian wit said of an author, who had
been much praised for a forthcoming production, which totally disap-
pointed public expectation, might with equal propriety be applied to
our Palinurus : — Nous ltd avons avance des grands fonds, il nous a
fait hanqueroute.

The vessel's name was the Hero, and by a singular coincidence
of rhetorical contrivance, it was also that of the commander. We had,
however, no cause to congratulate ourselves on his AO«-f/«W«/ attributes,
and would have most willingly dispensed with such flattering epithets
for a little more solidity. Without being the first who had been sacri-
ficed to the folly or ambition of a hero ; this was not the only occa-

THE THAMES. 7

sioii in which I was taught to consider that, as the most fatal present
which Providence can bestow on mankind.

Having, at length, got under weigh, we proceeded down the
Thames. It is scarcely possible to conceive a more interesting spectacle
than is presented by this niagniticent stream, with its prodigious num-
ber of shipping, concentrating as it were the commercial spirit of
the universe, and whose masts form a perfect forest from London
bridge, till you descend several miles. There is even an indescribable
iuajesty in the stately undulation of this beautiful river, which is not
a little heightened l>y the romantic and picturesque objects that adorn
its ))anks, often the theme of poetic admiration : it has no wlier^ been
described with more force and dignity than in the celelirated Coo-
per's Hill of Sir John Denham :

Tho' deep yet clear, tho' gentle yet not dull,
Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full.

I have ever been a passionate admirer of running waters, so in-
.strumental in keeping up the communication, and maintaining the
prosperity of states. The philosopher gravely meditates on the suc-
ceeding wave, and rapidity of the passing stream. Poets delight to
wander under the melancholy shade of the drooping willow ; the ex-
ile, the lover, and the wretched, sigh in unison with the murmuring
cascade.

Super fimnina Babilonis sedimus etjlevimus !

Rivers have a great analogy to the heart, and reflections of the
earthly pilgrim. They seem to accompany our wandering thoughts;
reminding us of the rapidity of life, and its more fleeting pleasures:
they are, in fact, the image of human vicissitudes. Men, their con-
cerns, events and interests, are precipitated, clash, and succeed each
other like the ceaseless torrent ; even nations may be said to flow and
pass on to the ocean of time, finally losing themselves in the vast sea
of oblivion.

8 PARTING WITH FRIENDS.

Havina,- quitted the Thames, and sailed along the coast of Kent,
we had a tine view of Dover cliff, immortalized in the sublime verses
of Shakspeare, and in which some poets have recognized the genius
of Albion, like a colossus, extending its hospitable arms to friendly
nations. Adieu ! great and powerful sovereign of the ocean ; adieu,
happy countiy, in which the law governs, and is tempered by mercy ;
where a protecting genii still cherishes that divine spark of ' heavenly
fJame,' which, according to Plato, is developed in those climates
favourable to liberty and virtue ; where, in fine, as observed by the
Prince de Ligne, prosperity, freedom, and abundance, appear to
contend for pre-eminence ; and from which m ealth, l^eauty, and intel-
lect ought long since to have banished that splenetic and morbid me-
lancholy, which has sometimes been laid to the charge of its national
character. Farewell, dear and respected friends, who by so many
proofs of benevolent attention, will ever live in my warmest recollec-
lections. That your evening of life may not be interrupted by any
of those clouds which impede the progress of happiness : Yes ! my
kind ti'iends, gratitude and affection bid me express an ardent hope
that yours may be a tranquil day, so justly merited by hearts fraught
with honour and generosity.*

* Such are the very flattering sentiments of gratitude and applause, suggested by the
liberal and discriminating mind of Mr. Pananti, forming a most striking contrast with tke
conduct of many French emigrants, who had much more reason to sing the praises of
Great Britain; and have, since the restoration of the Bourbons, either forgotten or despised
that credulous benefactress, when no longer required to support their broken fortunes.
Many of our countrymen, whom the travelling mania have induced to give up the une-
qualled comforts of England, for the insult, robbery, and extortion of the continent, will
bear me out in asserting that gratitude is not a prevailing characteristic of La grande Na-
tion : a fact strongly exemplified in the conduct of great numbers of emigrants, amongst
whom, however, 1 feel much pleasure in acknowledging there are many, possessing both
talents and virtue. While at Paris, in the summer of 1816, a young medical student, who
had formerly been attached to the military profession, and for six weeks gratuitously

attended the Count M , after a severe fall from his horse, and whom the capricious

wheel has placed in the household of Louis le desire, took occasion, in consequence of the
previously extorted promise to that effect, to leave his card at the Count's, then basking in

FRENCH SCRIBBLERS. 'J

The ancients had two amiable divinities, sacred to absence and
separation : one of these consoling deities, presided over those tender
tViends, whose parting was blended with hopes of meeting again.
The other supported those who were left behind, and destined to an-
ticipate the beloved object's return. Let us indulge a hope, that such
soothing genii have not ceased to sympathize in our feelings, and
that their influence is still exerted over kindred minds, whose hearts,

the rays of the Tuileries. Some days after M. le Compie returned the visit, and after
expending a volume of unmeaning compliments, during which tout ce quHl avoit was libe-
rally placed at the disposal of my friend Mr. B , he retired with a solemn request

that whenever he was inclined to see the opera, he had only to .send for the Count's key I
This, I venture to say, is a fair specimen of that kind of return which many others have
experienced under similar circumstances ; and I defy the lying and ignorant scribbler of
Quinze Jours, and Six Mois à Londres, to disprove it; who, by the way of at once makirtg
himself popular in France, and displaying his exquisite knowledge in the fine arts, modestly
as.serts that the sign-post decorations of Vauxhall, equalled any thing he saw at the Spring
Garden exhibition!!! If the wretched followers of the contemptible Pillet, who in a
note prefixed to the last edition of Six Mois à Loiidres, say with equal modesty and truth,
that " tous les Anglais de bonne foi" agree to the principal points of his execrable trash,
I would recommend the consideration of anecdotes like the above, which tend in some
small degree to unmask a nation, that ha.s hitherto exclusively arrogated to itself the first
rank in gallantry and politeness.

Having alluded to travelling, I cannot close this note, without cordially joining in that
strong feeling of regret, which the thoughtless spirit of emigration has so justly excited in
every unbiassed friend of his country : a spirit which, I venture to prophecy, will in the
end be more injurious to the happiness of its advocates, than to the nation : which, how-
ever severely it may now feel tlieir absence, must, in the course of a little time, learn to
despise those, who having fattened on its prosperity, leave it at a period of national
distress, when their continuance at home could not fail to have been eminently beneficial
to the community. The easy facility with which so many families of opulence and dis-
tinction continue to squander the treasures of the mother country on the continent, is
certainly not the most amiable feature of the times we live in. And upon what pretences
do they justify such a line of conduct? Change of air, cheap living, and the education
of their children ! The absurd futility of these reasons, will, I am sure, be acknowledged
by two thirds of the English residents now in France : which number, if the mass of
information I have received be correct, have abundant cause to regret their having ever
left England. When the arrangements which oblige them to remain there for the present,
are at an end, it is hoped that the salutary experience of emigration, aided by some small
sense of patriotism, will lead to their return. To parents and guardians I would briefly

C

10 EMIGRATION.

no distance should separate. The last glance of England, was by
myiseli" and companions, attended with a feeling of regret only to be
cooceived by those in similar situations. If, says an ingenious living
poet,* Adieu, dare not be pronounced; it ought to be at least indicated
by a sigh; expressed, it should expire on the lips; and when written,
be blotted out with a tear !

To those unpracticed in a sea life, the moment which detaches

say, that a knowledge of French, dancing, and music, are but iii exchanged for the
destruction of morals. And as to the uniform hatred to England, constantly manifested
by extortion, abuse, and shameful partiality, it is too notorious to require illustration.
The public has been made tolerably well acquainted with the demoralized state of our
neighbours, their thorough contempt of religion, and all those minor virtues dependant on
it, by which society can alone be held together. With all this before their eyes, from the
most authentic sources, individuals can have no excuse for seeking that happiness abroad,
which they have hitherto looked for in vain, except by moderating their views, and quietly
sitting down in their own country. What would one of those scribbling calumniators, who
have been enriched by abusing the British nation, have said, if after having paid for his
dinner in a London coffee-house, and when about to retire, he, together with his friend,
were called upon to pay a second time, their decorous remonstrance had induced the
landlord to call in a file of grenadiers, who after an unmerciful beating, dragged them to
a dungeon six feet by eight, and keeping them three days without any communication
with their friends, then condescended to turn them into the street, without farther redress
or explanation ? What, I will ask, would one of these barefaced liars say, if after having
hired a boat to descend the Thames, embarked himself and property in it, paid the price
of his agreement in advance, the boatman took an opportunity of landing him on the way,
and then setting off without him, but taking off his effects ; and who on being afterwards disco-
vered with the stolen goods upon his person, was regularly consigned to the hands of
justice, but quietly liberated in three days without the smallest punishment ? What would
any liberal Frenchman say, if either of the above circumstances had befallen him in Lon-
don, as they have to others of my acquaintance in France? Which Mr. De C can

attest, both instances having actually occurred during his own administration. Let us,
therefore, hear no more of the Code Napoleon ; but

rather bear those ills we have.

Than fly to others that we know not of. Ed.

* Mr. William Spencer, a friend of the author. Some days after this sheet was

revised, a writer in the Morning Chronicle favoured the public with the following neat

paraphrase:

An adieu should in utterance die—

If written, but faintly appear-
Only heard in the burst of a sigh —
Only seen in the drop of a tear. Ed.

LORD BYRON. I I

you from land, and all the busy scenes of social life, is particularly
saddening ; the landsman, thus thrown upon the pathless waste of
waters, buffetted by winds and waves, and beset with a thousanti
perils, requires no small degree of fortitude successfully to bear up
against his destiny. Sea-sickness too, that most intolerable of nautical
evils, embittered by a monotonous recurrence of the same objects, all
conspire to increase that horror which the inexperienced naturally
feel towards the watery element; that voracious gulph which, indis-
criminately swallows up the plundered wealth of nations, and the
more honest fruits of toilful industry.

We considered ourselves as peculiarly wretched in being alone
at this inauspicious and warlike period. Most people, on such occa-
sions, look forward with pleasurable anxiety to the meeting of sti'ange
vessels, and prospects of again hearing the profound silence of the
ocean broken by human voices. Not so with us : — lavniched forth in our
crazy bark, on a track which swarmed av ith privateers, every sail that
appeared, excited suspicion, and tended to keep us in a state of con-
stant uneasiness.

It is true that amidst all this tedium and suffering, we were occa-
sionally enlivened with the recollections inspired by several memorable
spots that lay in our course. La Hogue, Cape St. Vincent, and Tra-
falgar, could not fail to revive the names of Rooke, Jei-vis and
Nelson ; and an ardent mind in traversing scenes so often renowned
by British valour, might still fancy himself on the territory of Albion.
The most original and deservedly popular poet of the present day,
Lord Byron,'^ has, perhaps unintentionally, though with his usual

* It is no inconsiderable proof, if any were wanting, in favour of Lord Byron's
extraordinary genius, that his poetry is sought after with avidity both in France, Germany,
and Italy, while an unaccountable degree of ignorance seems to prevail in all these coun-
tries, with regard to the exact state of that branch of literature in the united kingdom, or
the galaxy of genius which has adorned our poetical hemisphere during the last twenty
year.<!. Some months ago on the rqad between Florence and Rome, I accidentally

passed an evening in the society of a celebrated literary character of Geneva, Mr. S ,

who has not only been in England, but understands the language very well, and was not

C i

12 BAY OP BISCAY.

elegance, pourtrayed the naval superiority of his country in the fol-
lowing- beautifiil lines :

O'er the glad waters of the dark bhie sea,
Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free ;
Far as the breeze can bear the billows' foam,
Survey our empire, and behold our home !
These are our realms, no limits to their sway —
Our flag the sceptre all who meet obey.

It is really grand to reflect on the profound and unconfined limits
of the deep : with immensity over our head and beneath our feet, the
splendor and majesty of the divine Architect is nowhere more conspi-
cuous or sublime than in the endless expansion of the heavens, and
immeasurable depths of the ocean.

Traversing the famous Bay of Biscay without encountering many
of those inconveniences, of a high sea and tempestuous element,
which voyagers generally complain of, we successively passed the
Asturias, Galicia, and Estremadura, the sight of which gave rise to
that sympathetic admiration, inspired by the glorious example ©f
Spain, .struggling for her long lost rights and liberties, against the
unprovoked tyrant of those days, perhaps the most important poli-
tical lesson of modem times, in which it was amply proved how much
a whole people can do, when once and unanimously determined to
support their liberties and maintain their independence. By whatever
.strange combinations of events and cruel fatality, Spain has since
fallen from her proud station, and exhibited a melancholy proof of that
degradation, which bad government can bring upon a nation ; it
will be the future historian's gratifying task to pay his just tribute of
applause to the tried fidelity and unshaken courage of this brave peo-
ple, unequalled in the heroic annals of Pelagius and the Cid. Our

a little surprized, on repeating the names of Moore, Rogers, Southey, Campbell, Crabbe,
Montgomery, and a host of other popular poets, to find that he had never heard many of
those names before, or read their compositions ! I confess I do not envy those, who living
in an age when so many foolish books are read and written, are deprived of the exquisite
pleasure, and intellectual improvement, which the English poets of the present day, are so
pre-eminently capable of affording to the reader of every country. — Ed.

FERDINAND TUE SEVENTH. 13

vicinity to Corumia and Ferrol recalled to mind the names of many
celebrated chiets who will long live in Spanish story, and were at this
moment bravely contending for the restoration of their legitimate
sovereign. Amongst others, Porlier, and Mina, the distinguished
Guerilla leader; men, who were really entitled to the flattering
epithet of liherales, and without whose patriotic efforts, Ferdinand
the Vllth might have passed a few more years of his valuable life,
in the dungeons of Napoleon Buonaparte.*

* The very name of Spain, at the present crisis of its history, is sufficient, in the most
ordinary mind, to awaken a thousand contending feelings of sorrow and indignation : of
sorrow for the cruelly unmerited sufferings of a brave and generous people, doomed to
see their late unexampled efforts in the great cause of European liberty and national inde-
pendence, rewarded with political slavery on the one hand, and religious bigotry on the
other : of indignation at the perfidious ingratitude manifested to ourselves in the total
exclusion of our manufactures, and oppression of our merchants.t Yes! such has been
the return to this country, whose best blood and treasure have been so profusely sacrificed
to restore His Most Catholic Majesty Ferdinand the Seventh ! while, strange anomaly ! his
government could not, even now, sustain itself without the continued support of England
and her rich capitalists. The political history of the present time, involving, as it does,
a heap of the most incongruous absurdities ever invented by the united follies of mankind,
cannot be too faithfully handed down to posterity, as a salutary warning to all future
generations. Another point, inseparably connected with the above, cannot be passed over
in silence; I allude to the great cause of South American independence, that of the whole
human race. By what blindness of heart and contempt of wisdom, have the European
powers coldly witnessed the accumulated horrors of that bitter contest, which has for

tit is notperhaps generally known to the British public, that amongst the legal means adopted by the
Spanish government, to improve its exhausted treasury, it some time ago levied a tax of eight per cent.
of the whole value, on English cotton goods, for the permission of selling them in Spain, after the pro-
hibitory laws were promulgated ; while those very goods had paid the regular imposts on their original
entry! It will also be gratifying to the admirers of Ferdinand, if any remain, to know, that in addition
to the most rigorous measures now pursued against the introduction of British manufactures, a decree is
in existence, by virtue of which, the farther privilege to sell those goods already prohibited, will finally
cease in March. As a specimen of the dilapidated state of the Spanish treasury, and the utter impos-
sibility in which its government finds itself of raising money, when the new Queen of Spain arrived at
Cadiz from the Brazils, there were absolutely no means of paying the expcnces of her journey to Madrid ;
and her majesty would have had quietly to sit down there, had it not been lor the well-timed generosity
of the Roman consul, who advanced ten thousand dollars for this purpose. And yet such is the government
that still indulges a hope of enslaving South America .' I !

14 FREKDOM or SOUTH AMKRICA.

By tlie way of lieigliteuiiig- the pleasures of our voyage, and adding
to its already fatiguing sameness, we had several flays calm in this
quarter; which, by giving more time for reflection, did not serve to
diminish oiu' apprehension of being captured. The sage, says an
eastern moralist, dreads a calm, while he travels with indifference
and composure, in the tempest.

The wisdom of this maxim was somewhat exemplified by a violent
storm, which arose, on our arrival on the coast of Portugal, along

nearly six years, desolated the new world, without one solitary e3brt of a decided nature,
to arrest the progress of an annihilation ? Will all the hardened sophistry of idle declama-
tion, attempt to assert, that a totally different line of conduct in the cabinets of Europe,
was not prompted by the interests and duties of Christianity; or that the state of the world,
and advancement of civilization, did not fully justify, and even render necessary, a mea-
sure, which, emanating from the Congress of Vienna, would, in the mere shape of a decla-
ration, have by a stroke of the pen, at once settled the simple question between Spain and
her colonies? thus, saving to humanity the tears it has shed, during this monstrous and
unnatural warfare ; that body might have washed away some parts of the stain, caused by
the transfer of Genoa, and other continental arrangements. The shallow artifices employed
by those lukewarm politicians, who advocate our fatal policy in this struggle, can only be
exceeded by the extreme futility of their reasoning in its justification, arising from that
inexhaustible source of errors and of crimes — state policy !

Among many of those reasons assigned for the strict neutrality of this country, we are
gravely warned of the consequences accruing to France, from the part she took in the dis-
pute with our own colonies. This is one of the most feasible pretexts I have seen ; and yet,
after carefully examining its various bearings, will any man in his senses go so far as to say,
that the French revolution, with all its massacres, would not have taken place, had the
North Americans never revolted? Besides, are we to reap no benefit from experience like
that of the last twenty-five years ; or does the actual state of Europe bear any reasonable
comparison with that of 1789? Surely there are periods in the history of nations, when
the antiquated maxims of other days should not be adhered to in a totally different state of
society ? Every consideration of this momentous subject, undeniably shews, in my hum-
ble opinion, the sound policy, and absolute moral necessity of England's taking a new and
decided part in this question. She has liberated Europe from the iron yoke of Buonaparte ;
let her now crown the work of immortality by standing up, and boldly proclaiming the
independence of South America.

With respect to the jealousy which so glorious a measure might excite in our neigh-
bours; and upon which it has been in this case found convenient to lay a particular stress;
let MS obey the dictates of honour and of justice ; and the Divinity, who cannot look
down witli indifference upon such sacrifices, will be our best guarantee.

MODERN TKAVELLERS. 15

which our vessel was liuvried witli the utmost, rapidity; not, however,
without enabliiig- us to enjoy a uiagnificent view of the rock of Lis-
bon, entrance of the Tagus, and beautiful coast adjoiniug: we even
found ourselves in sight of the celebrated field of Viniiera, where
the first flag of victory was unfmled, which has since immortalized the
Hannibal and Fabius of the uuited kingdom. The charms of this
scene were still farther embellished, by the appearance of two large
convoys entering the Tagus. I regretted our not following their ex-
ample, asl might then have had somethiug to say of the city of Ulysses,
and countiy of Camoens. I do not, however, intend to imitate some
modern travellers, and amongst others, oue upon whose diary the
following remark was written : — On Tuesday, the loth, passed within
ten miles of the Island of Borneo. N. B. The inhabitants appeared
to be very handsome !

A violent north-east gale, having driven us beyond the strait of
Gibraltar, we had already advanced very considerably in the Atlantic,
and began to apprehend, that the terrific genius of the waters, who
had once opposed the progress of Vasco de Gama, might also come
in contact with us poor wanderers. Being on rather a frequented track,
the scene was a little varied one morning, by our meeting two Eng-
lish ships returning from India, one of whom sent their boat on

Viewing this question, as it regards the general interests of the European family, there
are many who assert, that our redundant population and exhausted commerce, have ren-
dered that great continent indispensably necessary to our future support and commercial
enterprize : so that, leaving out the innumerable other important points so closely connected
with it, the most powerful motives of self-interest require our speedy interference, painfully
anxious that our own beloved country should reap all the honor of so splendid an achieve-
ment. I have, in these few remarks, principally directed my attention to his majesty's
government. But, in conclusion, I will venture to add, that nothing would more forcibly
tend to regain the lost confidence of nations, than a simultaneous expression of the respec-
tive cabinets in favour of the persecuted Spanish colonies. If delayed but a very short time,
it does not require much sagacity to foresee that the South Americans will inevitably obtain
that for themselves, which the blind fatalism of European policy refused: then, indeed, we
may have reason, ere long, to tremble for the consequences, to which a rallying point, so
constituted, might give rise in the best regulated states of the Old World. — £d.

10 UNEXPECTED RENCONTRE.

hoard, and with that avidity, so natural to the nation, immediately
enquired how they w ere goins: on in Europe, and whetlier we could
by any possibility feast their eyes with the sight of a newspaper. As
it happened, we were enabled to gratify them in both ways, as besides
several papers, we had the pleasure of announcing the recent victo-
ries of Lord Wellington; the result of the Russian campaign, and first
efforts of the German league ; all apparently matters of the highest
interest to our visitors, who confessed that a newspaper was then the
most valuable present they could receive. It ^\as curious thus, to
have established a species of scientific and literary cabinet on the wes-
tern ocean, in which the great concerns of Europe were as freely dis-
cussed and considered, as they could be in a British House of Commons.
In return for om' little attentions, they kindly presented us with some
excellent Madeira, which, in addition to its other exhilarating quali-
ties, enabled us to drink to the success of the allied armies, the pro-
gress of legitimate and moderate governments, to the health of our
friends in London, Canton and Calcutta; that of the Brahmins of
Benares, and the independent members of the English parliament!
Having poured this grateful libation, we separated with all the regret
of old acquaintances.

While in this situation, we were during the day, exposed to a
scorching sun, which, besides its inconvenience, formed a striking
contrast with the delightful serenity of the nights, which are won-
derfully fine in these latitudes. An author has somewhere observed,
that day was made for the voluptuous followers of paganism ; while
night, and the studded firmament, is calculated to inspire the pro-
fessors of a purer doctrine. The immortality of the soul seems to be
more clearly demonstrated in the starry heavens; the splendor of day
dazzles the eyes of those who think they see into futurity.

Pursuing the voyage, and while endeavouring to regain our lost
ground, the first land we made, was in the neighbourhood of Salice,
so famous for its rovers, the worst pirates of their time. Nor dared we
diseml)ark, lest a modern Taums should have been found amongst

STRAITS OF CilBRALTAR. 17

tliose still uncivilized savages. The fine range ol' Atlas was seen
in the distance, and along tlie coast several minarets and other build-
ings of various shapes, together with many well cultivated vallies ;
the whole forming an exceedingly picturesque scene.*

Sailing round Cape Spartel, we at length entered the Straits of
Gibraltar, and were much gratified by the grand scenery on each
side, finely terminated by the rock towering in the distance. Owing
to the fever which infected several parts of the Spanish coast at this
period, we were prevented from landing; and had merely time to con-
template the surrounding objects, all commemorated either in classic
lore, or the historic page ; the inaccessible rock, its narrow and stu-
pendous fortifications, camp of San Roca, bay of Algeziras, cele-
brated by the victory of Rodney over the Spanish admiral Langara :
the very spot on which we lay is that, where, through the gallantry of
General Elliott, the floating batteries were destroyed. Ceuta, and the
southern pillar of Hercules, on the opposite shore of Barbary, pre-
sented a wide field for admiration and reflection. The commercial
activity, and imniense diversity of ships bearing the flag of diflerent
nations collected in the bay, also afforded a very interesting spectacle.

A seaman is truly what the French style Vhomme par excellence.
The world is his country, and human nature his family. Welcomed by
all as the harbinger of abimdance, convenience, and luxury, he is des-
tined to combat every element, and surmount all difiicidties. With a
natural greatness of soul, and elevation of spirit, his views are gene-
rally extensive, and character upright. Proud as the element he in-

* For a curious and highly interesting account of Morocco, see Keatinge's Travels:
where, amongst more important matter, a very good description of the part seen by the
author is given. In speaking of the road between Sallee and Tangier, the Colonel observes :
" For several miles this route continues along the river's side, (the Cebu,) which is deep,
of slow descent, and meandering picturesquely in the boldest and most comprehensive
sweeps that can be seen or imagined, through rich flats, and meadows of a depth of verdure
in the tint, of which nothing to be seen elsewhere could give an idea, until its reaches ulti-
mately flatten to the eye, to be lost in the indistinctness of the horizon."" — Vol. II. p. 40.
^Ed.

D

18 SYMPTOMS OP MUTINY.

liabits, and free as that breeze which wafts him along ; his principles
of action are alike litted to every situation. Born to live with his
felloAvs, the sea-faring man is the real friend of society, of humanit},
and civilization. The diffuser of knowledge, and common benefactor
of mankind, he only is entitled to the epithet of cosmopolite. The
most splendid ornament and steady support of a free people, he is the
truest source of national prosperity : so that the solitary verse of a
French poet should not be forgotten :

Le trident de Neptune est le sceptre du monde ;*

at a time too when its truth has been so fully exemplified by a nation
of our own days.

Situated as we were, common prudence would have dictated the
necessity of remaining a few days at Gibraltar, and joining the first
convoy that sailed up the 3Iediterranean, of which at this time there
was one nearly every week . And by the way of adding to our comfort, it
was strongly reported that the Algerine squadron was at sea, com-
mitting its depredations in various quarters. The poor seamen, who
either from personal experience, or public notoriety, knew the horrors
which must inevitably attend falling into the hands of the barbarians,
began to murmur, and at length broke out into open violence, posi-
tively declaring they would no longer navigate the vessel, if the mas-
ter refused to accede to their just demand of waiting for the protection
of the first convoy. But oiu* ill-judged conductor would have proba-
bly sufiered himself to be cut to pieces, rather than incur a farthing
expence by any longer delay here. Assuming a high tone, therefore,
he loudly accused liis men of a disposition to mutiny, and after volumes
of abuse, roundly swore, that if they did not immediately return to a
senseof duty and suboi-dhiation, they should, on their arrival at Sicily,
be put into dungeons " where day-light never entered," and out of

* The above is from the pen of Le Mierre, who was so vain of it, that he considered
il superior to any single line of Racine or J. B. Rousseau. This presumption gave rise to
tiie following opinion : — Oui, cesi un Lean vers, mais cc^t un vers solitaire !

RESUMPTION OF AUTilORITV. 19

which it was for them to escape as well as they could ! Continiung
to dwell upon this strain with peculiar emphasis, he proceeded to read
a lesson upon arbitrary power, stating, amongst other tine maxims,
that a captain was king on board his own ship, and his will the law !-^
1 now thought it was high time to make some reply to this self-created
and bombastic sovereign, particularly as I felt but too much interest
in the reasoning of his men, and recollecting what Seneca had on u
former occasion said to Nero, told him, in somewhat of a peremptory
tone to remember, Mspoiver was at an end where justice terminated;
that having violated his written agreement to sail with convoy, it
would be seen, if ever we reached Sicily, who was most entitled to a
place in the dungeons to which he so confidently alluded. Had this
harangue been properly supported by my fellow passengers, the hero
would most likely have lowered his pretensions ; but though very ami-
able personages, they were unfortunately deficient on this occasion, and
apprehensive lest the dispute should take a more serious turn, were,
during its continuance, occupied in restraining me by repeating the
old worn-out arguments of " where 's the necessity for entering into the
crowd to be trampled upon?" " Command who can, obey who ought !"
" The ass must follow his master;" " One fool is enough to command
in the same house !" and similar consolatory phrases, all calculated to
precipitate the fate which awaited us. Nor was it the first time I had
reason to believe, that in all the great concerns of life, judgment and
talent are less trequently wanted, than disposition and character. It is,
peihaps, equally true, that more mischief arises from indecision and
want of confidence, than the opposite extremes of temerity and pre-
sumption. In the present instance, my incredulous companions seemed
to lose their usual habits of reflection. Viewing the captain's proceedings

-* This is by uo means a new doctriue, lor until very lately it was not only preached
but practiced in the ships of another country : but it is only justice to add, that owing to a
number of highly useful regulations and restrictions, adopted wUhiu the last few years, it is
now pretty well exploded. As to the improvements alluded to, it is sincerely to be hoped,
they are only preludes to others of still greater importance and utility. — Ed.

d2

20 PLF.ASURES or A SEA-VOYACE.

as being founded on his boasted experience, they determined patiently
to await the result of his arrangements ; and, as if destiny had interfered,
appeared to feel as mutli indifference as if we were merely going to a
bali or a wedding. Their fancied security, in so uncertain a j)osition,
reminded me of a story which is told of a poor man who, during an
inundation of the Arno at Pisa, was carried away by the torrent while
attempting to lay hold of a large beam he saw floating down. In this
extremity-, when there seemed to be no chance of his gaining land,
and a large concourse of people had already collected on the banks,
exclaiming, " poor man ! there is no chance of safety ; you will surely
become food for the fishes." " Oh dear !" says another ; " what will be-
come of his unfortunate wife and children V When the lamentations
had subsided a little, the object of them, still clinging to the beam,
looked up, and very deliberately said, " for my part, ladies and gen-
tlemen, I hope for the best !"

Madame du Deffand once observed that she only knew three sorts
of people, des trompeurs, des trompés, et des trompettes. No soonei-
had that of our redoubtable Astalfo been sounded by my friends, than
his crest became immediately elevated, and without farther ceremony
he weighed anchor and stood out of Gibraltar, with the illusory pro-
mise, however, of touching at Minorca, for the purpose of accompany-
ing the first English ship of war, that left that island for Sicily. In
the course of our navigation along the Spanish coast, I frequently
took occasion to remind him of his promise, and even strongly sug-
gested the prudence of such a measure ; forgetting with Machiavel,
that fools never take advice, or the still more apposite injunction of
another writer, not to give your counsel to those who appear most in
want of it.- So far, therefore, from his shewing any disposition to
gratify us in this particular, he evidently adopted a course which
mu^t inevitably take us many leagues nearer the coast of Barbary.

One of the few pleasures attendant on a sea voyage, is that of
f.ocasionally enjoying the comfort of a good dinner, and more enli-
^ ening glass of wine ; but with our bounteojis caterer even that

COMFORTS OF THE TABLF. il

consolation was denied. A preacher, wlio had not received one invi-
tation to dine out, during a Avhole Lent, declared, in his last seiinon,
that he had preached against every sin except gluttony ; and that
was a vice which he was glad to see did not seem to predominate in
the neighbourhood !

For the information of those who may at any future period,
undertake a voyage by water, it may not be altogether useless to give
a short specimen of our fare on board the Hero. It consisted of a
little musty rice plentifully mingled with stones, and evidently the
sweepings of some store-room ; salt meat, not unlike half tanned lea-
ther, and which, from the difficulty of extricating it out of the teeth,
created a constant tooth-ache. As to wine, it was fairly out of the
question ; nor did the provident steward even lay in a small stock of
beer, so cheap an article in the country we had left. Our usual
beverage, therefore, was made up of putrid water, which it was
attempted to render palatable by a dash of vinegar. If the occasional
intermission of sea-sickness created a little appetite, this chalice of
bitterness soon destroyed it ; and by a refinement in his mode of tor-
menting the poor passenger, whenever the hour of refreshment arrived,
I perceived that the vessel was then placed in the most uneasy posi-
tion the master could contrive ; for to him nothing was so mortitying
as seeing any of his unfortunate victims enjoy their dinner.

We had but too fiequently reason, in this hungry state, of calling
to mind the ill-fated story of Ugolino ; nor was our ship inaptly com-
pared to the tower in which he perished.^ Judging fiom the meagre

* This allusion will doubtless remind the Italian reader of that wonderfully sublime
passage of the Inferno, in which the famished Count relates the harrowing narrative of his
confinement in the Torre della Fame.

Quel dì, e l'altro stemmo tutti muti :

Ahi dura terra, perchè non l'apristi ?

Posciachè fummo al quarto dì venuti,

Gaddo mi si gitto distesò a' piedi,

Dicendo: Padre mio, che non m'ajuti! V. Cant, xxxiii.

The following

22 AMUSING BHAVERY.

and wretched appearance of myself and compauions, it was, I think,
well said by the Piince of Orange, " that in a three days regimen he
wonld make a poltroon of the bravest man in his army."

As to these little digressions, not immediately connected with
the main object of publishing, it is hoped they will be excused, on
the score of their melancholy importance to the writer. Enough
will follow to excite feelings of a very different nature ; but as a
French traveller says, dans un hatimeut quoi /aire « moins qu'on ne
conte? and I am not the tirst scribbler, who, for the purpose of giv-
ing more unity to his narrative, has led his reader gradually on to the
catastrophe. When, at Scarron's petits soupers, the second course
was not ready, the cook used to whisper in the ear of Madame S.
afterwards the celebrated Maintenon, so famous for anecdotes and
bons mots, " have the goodness to amuse the company with a story,
as the roast meat is not quite done."

For several days after leaving the coast of Catalonia, we had an
ample opportunity of witnessing the sad etlects of war, and those
anti-social decrees of the belligerents, which seemed to extinguish all
the commercial intercourse of nations. In a run of four or five hun-
dred miles, we only encountered two vessels. One having a suspicious
appearance, our captain prudently kept aloof; for he too, was amongst
the number of those, who thought with Falstaff, that prudence is the
better part of valour ; with the other we came into more immediate
contact : she proved to be an unarmed Neapolitan, and no sooner
was this circumstance ascertained, than our bombastic skipper deter-

following attempt at translation, will give some idea of its divine original:

Unwilling thus to aggravate their woes.

Gloomy and calm, attendant on the close

Of all our pangs, I sate, revolving slow ;

Two days succeed— the fourth pale morning hroke,

'' O Father, help ! I feel the deadly stroke!"

Mv Gaddo cry'd, and sunk beneath the blow! — Boyd.

Ed.

SIGNS OF PIRATES. 2-j

lained to assert his superiority by displaying the Sicilian flag, and
firing a shot at the stranger, to bring her to. Although this effort of
bravery had the desired eflect, the Neapolitan, m ho was no admirer of
practical jokes, on coming within hail, remoiistiated in not very classical
terms against the unprovoked aggression of our doughty chieftain.
There being a strong natural jealousy existing between the people of
Sicily and Naples, the present rencontre was followed by volumes of
ribaldry and abuse on each side, which, when both parties were com-
pletely exhausted, and not till then, terminated to the great joy of the
lookers on.

On making the island of Sardinia, a much more unpleasant spec-
tacle presented itself: this was the appearance of several strange sails,
close under the land, whose continued manoeuvring created an imme-
diate suspicion on the part of the crew, that they were corsairs. This
the captain pertinaciously denied, asserting them to be no other than
an English convoy, and even proposed to bear up and join them, which
gave rise to a suraultanous burst of disapprobation from all on board,
followed by a long altercation; in which we resolutely declared, that
having escaped thus far, we had no idea of voluntarily going into the
lion's mouth, and therefore insisted on the vessel's being instantly
steered towards the island of San Pietro, where there was an excellent
harbour to receive us. To this universal cry of putting into port, the
Hero reluctantly yielded.

Ma cadendo quell' anima superba,

Fé' una bocca di biascia sorba acerba;

Ed era sconcertato a si gran segno

Che pareva un Ebreo che ha perso il pegno.

We soon after ìiad tìie pleasure of anchoring, and congratulated
each other with the ardour of those, who feel they have just escaped
an imminent danger.

In consequence of the plague still raging at Malta, and the mea-
sures of precaution it imposed on the neighlx>uring coasts, we were

24 PLEASURES OP SHORE.

not permitted to land at the town ; but a space was allotted, where we
had an opportunity of stretching our limbs : and this, to persons in
our situation, worn out with a tedious voyage, sea-sickness, and bad
living-, was no trifling luxury. It is for those whose destiny has for
many years separated them from their native soil, to judge what my
feelings were on touching the first shore of Italy ! Not with more
anxious solicitude could the lover rush into the arms of his mistress,
or diesar gain the opposite bank of the Rubicon, than myself and
fellow suiierers sprang on the beach at our first landing. Tears of joy
moistened the cheeks of several, at the rapturous thotight of once more
inhaling the salubrious and vivifying air of our native climate. None
but persons who had been placed in a similar situation, can possibly
conceive the pleasurewe experienced, on pressing the earth, and bound-
ing along the shore, after having so largely tasted all the bitter ingredients
of a sea voyage, and its innumerable unpleasan tries to a landsman.
Nor is the moment of landing, when sea-sickness seems banished as it
u ere, by enchantment, the least agreeable of a traveller's emancipa-
tion. The refreshments, consisting of poultry, vegetables, and exqui-
site grapes, soon had the effect of restoring us to that love of life which
the captain had well nigh succeeded in extinguistnng; and San Pietro
was, to us, a real land of promise.

During our promenade along a fine sandy beach, we were fre-
quently visited by the natives of distinction, who paid us every
attention in their power ; and even the fairer sex did not fail to come
and sympathize with the weaiy travellers. There seems to be a natu-
lal tendency in the human mind, to become acquainted with the man,
qui mores hominum multorum videi et urbes ; and we find a secret
pleasure in listening to the marvellous stories of the pilgrim. For our
parts, we all blessed the haven of safety, comfort, and relaxation :

E intanto oblia

, noia e il mal della passata via.

SAN PIETRO. 2Ó

San Pietro, thougli small and not very productive, carries on a
considerable trade with the Balearic islands, and Cag^liari. There is
very little grain cultivated there : so that it consists principally of
vineyaids, which produce tolerably good wine; and the higher
groiuids are well stocked with game. Its tunny fishery is one of the
most celebrated in all the Mediterranean. The inhabitants possess a
high character, for honest simplicity, industry, and civility towards
strangers. Being in great harmony with each other, they would
enjoy all the blessings of such attributes, were it not for the continued
incursions of the Barbary corsairs. The Tunisians landed here about
forty years ago, and desolated the island fioni one end to the other,
taking off nearly all the defenceless inhabitants. A similar visit was
paid, not more than seven years ago, by the assassins of Algiers, who
have alsovery lately committed another most daring outrage on the same
unfortunate people. In a state of incessant alarm, with their past
sufferings constantly before them, they were described to us in all the
unadorned and simple colouring of nature : nor did this take away
from the horrors which had befallen many of them. These stories
generally ended by kindly warning us of the dangers which might
attend leaving the port without convoy.

We were farther informed that the squadrons of Algiers and Tripoli
were cruizing in the vicinity ; the boats of the former had even landed
.some evenings before, taking off a large quantity of cattle and a boy.
They also related the melancholy story of the Chevalier Seratti,* who
had lately fallen into the hands of the Tunisians, and since became a
victim of their ferocity.

Under such menacing appearances, we were entreated upon no

* The Chevalier was formerly prime minister in Tuscany, and a .Sicilian counsellor oi'
state, possessing a high character for intelligence, zeal and probity. One of his first mea-
sures, when appointed some years ago governor of Leghorn, was to intercede with the
Grand Duke, and obtaining the liberation of all the Tunisian slaves brought into that port.
Who could have then foreseen, that in his latter years, he would himself be conducted a
slave to Tunis, and finally perish there !

E

26 FLATTERING DELUSION.

account to venture out till things looked better ; and did not fail to
impress the necessity of following this friendly advice on the mind of
our obstinate captain : who, without absolutely denying its justice, or
communicating his real intentions, suffered us to retire to rest, in the
flattering belief that we should not only have an opportunity of revi-
siting our new friends next day, but of remaining in port till a better
time of sailinii arrived.

UNEXPECTED DEPARTURE. 27

CHAPTER II.

Imprudent Departure from Sax Pietro. — Presentiments. — Appearance of the
Algerine Squadron. — Capture by the Pirates. — Captive taken before the
Admiral.— First Night on board the Corsair. ^Second Day. — Storm. —
Naval Engagement. — Union of the Captives, — Treatment on board the Cor-
sairs of Barbary. — Situation improved. — Hope. — The Rais Hamida. — Coast
o/ Italy. — Council of V\''^ar.— War between Tunis «/?// Algiers. — HiMo-
rical Notice of Tunis.— The Revolution.— ^The Squadron appears before
Tunis, and retires. — Coasting, and Arrival at Bona.

Nature was stlll enveloped in her stany mantle ; and the goddess
of night in her ebon car, silently wandered through the heavens, when
confused noises, as if created by a general movement on board the
vessel, suddenly awoke the sleeping passengers, who, upon ascending
the deck, beheld, with a mingled feeling of sorrow and indignation,
that the anchor was up, and sails spread for the purpose of once more
incurring the many dangers, which had been so emphatically described
by the faithful islanders, whose friendly admonitions were completely
thrown away on our besotted and ignorant conductor. While steering
out of the bay, the boat returned on board, when the person who had
been despatched in her, to execute some little commission for the cap-
ttiin, told us, with fear and trembling, notwithstanding his being
cautioned to the contrary, that the report of cannon was heard;
supposed to be signals of alarm, from San Pietro and the Peninsula
of Antioch, a place to the northward.

In this fearful extremity, we naturally supplicated the master to
return into port, pointing out the imminent peril which attended

E 3

28 PASSENGERS.

going to sea under such circumstances. But he was deaf to every
enti'eaty, and even assumed a most insolent tone, when reminded of
his solemn engagement to sail with convoy ; tinally observing, that
he had originally sailed for Sicily, and to Sicily he would go !

Would to Heaven that our just indignation had prompted us to
adopt a more determined course with regard to this wretch, on so
emergent an occasion ; or that some resolute mind, like Rousseau's
Emilius in a like dilemma, had avenged his companions in misfor-
tune, by liberating the earth from such a traitor, and the sea of such
a monster.

After having nearly terminated the voyage, and arrived within a
few days sail of the much desired port, to have thus been mercilessly
exposed to so great a calamity was most distressing ; surely our past
sufferings merited a better fate ! The poor seamen were fiill of anxious
Inope, at the idea of revisiting their wives and families : nearly all of
them had brought little ventures, the result of their hard-eanied wages,
and chief source of consolation on returning homewards ; while the
day of their arrival was fondly anticipated to be one of rejoicing and
hilarity. It was impossible to have found better disposed characters
than these unfortunate victims of rashness and imbecility.

The passengers too, of whom I have hitherto been silent, were
all persons of the highest merit. The Chevalier Rossi, possessing a
most honourable mind, and liberal sentiments, was returning from
England with all the information which that enlightened country
aifords to foreign visitors, accompanied by his wife, an amiable and
accomplished woman, together with two lovely children, the offspring
of their union. An industrious and honest merchant, Mr. Terreni
of Leghorn, was taking out merchandize of great value, the result of
his judicious speculations in Great Britain ; Antonio Terreni, his bro-
ther, an artist of great merit ; who was going to Sicily for the purpose
of making a picturesque tour through the island, as he had already
done, with so much eclat in Tuscany ; a Calabrese, who had served
for many years in the British navy, and was returning home to enjoy

l'avara per amore. "29

the fruits of his exertions while absent; also, a beautiful woman going
to join her husband, who was on his return from the East Indies. Alter
a variety of strange vicissitudes, destiny was about to unite them, and
realize the story of Ulysses and Penelope, who, sustained by the force
of love, were, on their meeting, still more enchanted by a recapitu-
lation of their mutual adventures.

The last personage in this catalogue, though not the least inte-
resting, was a charming girl, whose singular story requires particular
attention. Enamoured with a young Sicilian, her affections were re-
turned l)y a corresponding attachment on his part. As, however, fate
will generally have it, her fortune was unequal to the extravagant
pretensions of the young man's father. Her treasin'es were those of
the mind and person ; and in both these she was by no means defi-
cient. But it has often been proved, that nothing is more ditficult
than severing the ties formed by real love. In the present case it
had the effect of giving our heroine strength and resolution to visit
England, in search of two old and rich relatives, from whom she
hoped to obtain the object of her wishes. On presenting herself
before them, her personal charms, aided by the irresistible eloquence
of love, produced the desired effect ; and receiving a liberal dowry,
she hastened back, with the delightful hope of throwing it together
with her own fond heart at the feet of her lover.

The dullness and monotony of our voyage was frequently enli-
vened by the repetition of her stoiy, which she felt a virtuous pleasure
in relating ; and by way of playful irony she obtained the name of
L'avara per amore ; the miser for love. In our present advanced
state, the poor girl anxiously counted every hour, and even minute,
which separated her from the man of her choice ; and would often
fancy she beheld him on the shore, with extendetl arms, to receive all
that was dear to him in this world! He did so, no doubt, with the
trembling anxiety of Paul, when awaiting the long expected return
of his beloved Virginia ; but, alas ! he was never to behold her more :
and, unlike her prototype, who perished in the waves, she was des-

30 A STORM.

tined to fall a sacrifice to barbarians ; and like the beantifnl Angelica
of Ariosto, it might well be exclaimed :

Oh troppo eccelsa preda
Per si barbare genti e si villane !

We continued our course, thoughtful and pensive: with eveiy eye
mournfully directed towards the ^\ ater, a dead silence pervatled the
passengers and crew. It is the nature of deep sorrow to be mute ;
and this was merely a sad presentiment of what was shortly after to
follow. Had the tattered state of the vessel, and her heavy sailing-
been considered, the imprudence of thus going into the very face of
such enemies was self-evident.

While in this state of painful suspense, a sudden scpiall from off
the land, carried away our main-top-mast, which, in its fall, nearly
overwhelmed the captain. Once, while M. de Calonne was reclining
on his luxurious feathers, the top of his bed fell in, and would have,
most probably, suffocated the ex-minister, had not prompt assistane*'
been given. A gentleman who «iw him in this state, immediately ex-
claimed, "just heaven !"* Without exactly wishing to see our comman-
der expiate his obstinacy and folly, by falling under the mast, I could
not, at the time, help considering its vicinity to his skull, as a spe-
cies of providential warning for him to return into port, or make
for Cagliari, which was not very distant. But it had no such effect :
the atmosphere became every moment more obscure, a roaring noise
of the waves was heard in the distance, and deep peals of thunder
began to issue from the clouds which were collecting all round : these,
together with a strong wind and high sea, ushered in the first night
after our quitting San Pietro.

O Navis ! referent in mare te novi
Fluctus ? O : quid agis ? Fortiter occupa
Portum. Nonne vides, ut
Nudum remigio latus.

* This anecdote loses all its point by translation, and requires to be explained. The
tester of a bed is called del (heaven) in French, and tielo in Itahan : so that the pun
alluded to, turned upon the minister's friend exclaiming /rfs^e del!— Ed.

APPEARANCE OF PIRATES. Jjl

Et malus celeri saucius Africo
Antenneeque gemunt ; ac sine funibus

Vix durare carinte

Possint imperiosius

^quor ?* Car. xiv.

It was in vain to expect any repose, in this state of fearful appre-
hension; and no sooner had the weariness, occasioned by several
liours rocking about in my wretched cell, produced a disposition to
sleep, than the Chevalier Rossi came with a tremulous voice, to inform
me, that the very same vessels, seen previous to our entering San
Pietro, were just discovered! Hurrying out of bed, I sprang on deck
where all was anguish and confusion. Having hastily interrogated the
pilot and seamen, their answers consisted of broken sentences and
significant inclinations of the head. The strange sails, six in number,
were almost at this time imperceptible specks in the horizon; but
from the ideas naturally associated with their sudden appearance, the
panic was dreadful, what with reality, and the force of imagination.
Stimulated by our fears, their size gradually increased, and from the
disastrous result, might justly be compared to those phenomena of the
ocean, so much dreaded by mariners, which, from the most inconsider-
able spot in the atmosphere advance by slow degrees, until bursting
on their heads, they are instantly buried in the waves.

Scarcely had the first emotions of alarm been developed, when
a particular manoeuvre of the strangers, clearly manifested their hos-
tile intentions : this, on being perceived, was followed by a burst of

* Unhappy vessel ! Shall the waves again
Tumultuous bear thee to the faithless main ?
What w^ould thy madness, thus with storms to sport?
Cast from your anchor in the friendly port.
Behold thy naked decks ; the wounded mast
And sail-yards groan beneath the southern blast,
Nor without ropes thy keel can longer brave,
The rushing fury of th' imperious wave. Frantiti.

32 HOPRS OF ESCAPE.

liorroi-, fiom all on board ; and in the general alarm, the seaman's
efforts to make sail, and conduct us into safety, seemed only to increase
the confusion, being calculated rather to precipitate the fatal event
than otherwise. Agitation is not activity, and naval or military opera-
tions, without a design, are more likely to disconcert, than forward
objects. By a dreadful fatality, the wind, which had until now blown
w ith great violence, suddenly ceased ; so that we found ourselves, in
a moment, totally incapable of changing the vessel's position. As to
the captain, he was dumb with amazement; and, notwithstanding his
former boasting, remained completely inactive, having lost all power
of exertion : and in those situations to be idle, or uncollected, is to
give up every hope of escape. A light breeze having sprung up,
we suggested the idea of making sail towards the land, and after all,
we had the alternative of taking to the long boat : the proposition was
hardly made, when the master pointed towards one of the enemy's
vessels to leeward, which cut off our retieat in that direction. Igno-
rant of the degree of credit to which his reasoning Avas entitled, he
made no efforts, either for defence or escape.

The enemy, w hen first seen, were at least fifteen miles ofi"; while
the coast of Sardinia was not more than a third of that distance.
Even the barbarians after our capture, said that we had a bad Rais ;
as, if we had made the slightest movement towards reaching the
shore, they would not have attempted to follow us ; but seeing our
total inactivity, and a seeming disposition to approach, rather than
get away, they thought us enchanted, and according to their own
emphatical expression, dragged along by the dark spirit of our ine-
vitable ruin.

All was terror and dismay on board the Sicilian. I know not
what chilling hand oppresses the Christian heart, on the appearance
of Barbary corsairs : like the head of Medusa, it seemed to petrify
every person on board. It was now, that as in all great disasters,
instead of mutual support and encouragement, a sentiment of hatred
is instantly generated ; the fire of discord bursts forth amongst the

PROSPECT OF CAPTURE. 33

companions of misfojtune, and intestine war is kindled on j)uidic
desolation.

One of our men, who liad been in slavery at Sallee, and who pre-
.served the sad remembrance, inspired by a feeling of desperation,
rushed up to the captain, and would have certainly plunged a stiletto
in his heart, had not myself and the other passengers promptly
interfered. Another, still more infuriated, seized a fire-brand, and
was, by absolute force, prevented from applying it to the powder
magazine ; some were for destroying themselves on board ; others
proposed jumping into the sea, and thus defeating the triumph of their
enemies. This state of sutfering and despair having subsided, it was
.shortly succeeded by a deep and mournful silence ; after Avhich, the
sailors were observed to descend, one by one, into the hold, there to
await the event. As to us passengers, we remained on deck, deeply
meditating on, and watching our approaching ruin. The master,
who had never been in the habit of standing at the helm, now took
possession of it ; and, profiting by the light air that blew, gradually
turned the vessel's head towards the pirates, .so that we advanced to
them, in.stead of waiting their arrival.

Several hours passed in this cruel and trembling perplexity; it
was like sipping the poisoned draught. On the barbarians getting
near us, we could easily distinguish their horrid yells ; and innumera-
ble turbans soon appeared along their decks. It was now that the last
ray of hope abandoned the least terrified amongst us ; and, as if elec-
trified by the .same shock, we fled from the horrid spectacle, each
hiding himself in the best way he could below, there patiently to wait
the grand catastrophe which threatened us.

When every exertion, whether of the mind or body, becomes no
longer availing, the human heart falls into a species of stupor and
frigid tranquillity, which may truly be called the last stage of suffer-
ing. It was thus, that a Canadian savage, while sitting in his canoe**
above the great fall of Niagara, had the rope which fastened her to
the shore, cut by one of his enemies, and was fast driving towards

F

34 TAKEX BY THE ALGERINE».

the tremendous cataract. In this extremity, he made every exertion,
that force, courage, and resohition could suggest, to avoid the threat-
ened danger; but, perceiving from the rapidity of tlie stream, that
there was no chance of escape, he tranquilly laid his paddle aside,
and, stretching himself along the bottom of the canoe, with his head

covered — was dashed down the foaming abyss !

But now the terrible moment has at length arrived, and with it,
the greatest misfortune which can possibly befall a human being. Tlte
shout of the barbarians are heard close to us. They appear on deck in
swarms, with haggard looks, and naked scimetars, prepared for boarding;
this is preceded by a gun, the sound of which was like the harbinger of
death to the trembling captives, all of whom expected tobe instantly sunk ;
it was the signal for a good prize : a second gun announced the capture,
and immediately after they sprang on board,in greatnumbers. Theirfirst
movements were confined to a menacing display of their bright sabres
and attaghans ; with an order for us, to make no resistance, and sur-
render ; which it was hardly necessary to repeat, we had only to obey ;
and this ceremony being ended, our new visitors assumed a less austere
tone, crying ouiintheir Lingua Franca, Nopauro ! Nopauro ! "Don't
be afraid." After this rum was ca lied for, then the keys of our trunks ; when ,
dividing our party into two divisions, one was ordered into the pirates'
boat, and conveyed to the admiral's frigate, while the other remained
behind under the care of several Moors, who had taken charge of the
vessel. I was amongst the number of those transferred, and in putting
off from the brig, joined my companions in a speechless adieu of those
we left behind.

Cruel fatality ! The boat had scarcely put off, and began to row
towards the Algerine, when the breeze, which we had for so many
hours vainly prayed for, and even one hour before might have seen
us in safety, suddenly sprang up, accompanied with dark clouds,
which was soon followed by torrents of rain. The Moors, only intent
on securing their victims, cheerfully howled to the blast, while we
remained absorbed in gloomy silence.

PILLAGED. 3Ò

Oil gaining the iiigate we had no sooner got upon deck, than
the barbarians uttered a general ciy of victory, usual when any cap-
tures are made. A savage joy'seemed to play on their cadaverous
aspects. A passage being opened for us between the armed Turks and
Moorish sailors, we were conducted into the presence of the grand
Rais, supreme commander of the Algerine squadron. He was
seated between the captains of the five other frigates, Avho had assem-
bled in close council to deliberate on the measures necessary to be
taken with us, to combine future operations, and finally to exult in
their horrible celebrity. We were interrogated in brief and haughty
terms, but neither insult nor rudeness was offered to any of the party.
The grand Rais very civilli/ asked vis for our money, watches, rings,
and every other article of value we had about our persons ; in order,
as he obligingly observed, to save them from the rapacity of the
people of the Black Sea, who formed a considerable part of his crew ;
and whom he candidly said were all ladri. He then deposited
our respective property in a small box, faithfully assuring us that all
should be returned on our leaving the vessel. During the distribu-
tion in the box he repeated, alternately looking at the captives,
" questo per ti," " this is for you ;" " questo altro per ti :" but per-
haps in his heart, " and all this for me!" We were then ordered to
retire ; and, placed upon a mat in the Rais's outer cabin, began to
reflect on our new .situation.

When supper was served, it consisted of a black looking paste in
an immense pan, which being placed on the deck, was immediately
surrounded by a host of hungry Moors and negroes, indiscriminately
mixed together, and making common cause for the laudable purpose
of emptying the platter: which if ever so well inclined to partake of,
was a lorlorn hope to us afflicted and over ceremonious visitors; who
at this patriarchal repast, might with propriety be compared to the
timid spaniel, who vainly attempts to come in for a part of the bone,
thrown to the famished mastiff. Soon after sun-set, we were ordered
to descend by a species of trap leading into the hold, which had infi-

f2

36 MELANCHOLY REFLECTIONS.

lately more the appearance of a sepulchre than a place destined
for living beings. There it was necessary to extend our wearied
limbs over blocks, cables, and other ship's tackling, which made
ours a bed of thorns indeed! In this suffocating state, the bitterest
reflections presented themselves to our sleepless imaginations.

After being, as it were, on the eve of touching the paternal shore,
what was now to become of us'? Born and educated in a civilized
country ; long accustomed to share the protection of British liberty
and law, we were now captives of the vilest slaves, and perhaps
doomed to drag out the remainder of our wretched days in dreary
captivity amongst inexorable Moors! The poor sailors, too, all fathers
of families, who looked to them alone for support and consolation,
seemed totally incapable of bearing up against the misery of their
situation. It is true, the passengers were enabled, in this trying
dilemma, to exerci.se rather more philosophy and strength of mind;
but who could calmly reflect on a situation so new and afllicting i It
was impossible to close an eye —

Tir'd nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep !
He, like the world, his ready visit pays
Where fortune smiles ; the wretched he forsakes ;
Swift on his downy pinion flies from woe.
And lights on beds unsully'd with a tear.

What dreadful phantoms hovered o'er our heads in this gloomy
receptacle! What hours, good Heaven! are those which follow the
tirst moments of slavery ! —

Que la iiuit parait longue à la douleur qui velile ! —

Scarcely had the day dawned, when, creeping out of our living-
sepulchre, we stalked backwards and forwards on the Algerine's deck,
ignorant of our future destiny, but endeavouring to form some con-
jectures from the voice and manner of the barbarians. Nothing posi-
tive could, however, be discovered in this »vay ; and we still remained
in the worst of all situations, that of doubt and uncertainty.

A STORM. 37

It has been well observed, that the first shock of misfortune is
not that which we feel the most severely; it is the one which follows:
as wounds are less painful during the heat of battle, while the blood
flows, and the mind is more intensely occupied by the surrounding
scene. The immediate eflects of any great disaster, are those of
creating stupor and insensibility ; and it is not until "reflection suc-
ceeds, that its real magnitude is seen. We are ready, in the first
onset of danger, to oppose our utmost strength and resolution to the
storm ; but when there is no longer any hope of successful resistance,
the best impulses of the soul seem to lose their influence.

During our promenade on deck, the Moors gathered round us in
great numbers, and with eager curiosity surveyed our appearance.
As to ourselves, we had then only cause to be surprised at the un-
looked-for situation in which destiny had placed us. A doge of Venice,
who, together with four of his senators, was obliged to go to Ver-
sailles, and beg pardon of Louis the Fourteenth, for some political
offence, being asked what astonished him most at that splendid resi-
dence, ingenuously answered, " that of finding myself here!"

Towards noon of the second day, a storm arose, during which
we experienced a dreadful succession of thunder and lightning, toge-
ther with all the usual accompaniments of a tempest at sea : this, un-
der other circumstances, would have had mucli greater terrors for us ;
but as the poet of nature observes :

Where the greater malady is fix"d,
The lesser is scarce felt ;

and we even derived a secret pleasure in witnessing the paralizing
effects of the gale on our ignorant masters; who, totally unacquainted
with tactics, or the science of navigation, were running wildly about
the ship, imploring Alia for protection ; till at last, unable to manage
her any longer, they not only solicited the advice of our seamen, but,
finally, gave up the entire direction to them. On seeing this, I cannot
describe an irresistible feeling ot joy, whicii seemed to take possession of
my mind, arising from a sudden thought which occurred to me, that by

38 PROSPECT OF LIBERTY.

a well combined, and spirited effort of our seamen and passengers,
there was a possibility of conducting the ship sutiiciently near the
Sardinian coast, to see one of its ports; and, in the event of the storm's
continuing, carry her directly in, and thus be once more restored to
our friends and libeiiy.

Animated by this illusory prospect of emancipation, and prompted
to undertake any thing, rather than patiently endure the apprehen-
sions of future sufferings ; I went on deck several times, and endea-
voured, by every argument in my power, to induce a compliance with
the proposal : stating, in the liveliest colours I could, the advantages
which must accrue from the success of such a scheme, and heartfelt
gratification of turning our misfortunes into a source of gallantry and
enterprize. To all these a variety of objections, suggested by fear or
indecision, were made : amongst others, it was asked, how we were
to find our way in so dark and tempestuous a night? I readily
acknowledged the danger to be considerable, but, on the other hand,
wished to know, what perils could be equal to those of passing
the rest of our lives in the chains of slavery ? And this interroga-
tory, if put to more resolute characters, might have produced a very
different effect. As it was, I drew a melancholy consolation from the
thought of having attempted, at least, to inspire my fellow captives
with that courage, which could alone afford any chance of our libe-
ration. There being no farther hopes of persuading the seamen, I
returned sorrowfully to my cell; and, as it generally happens, the
propitious moment once lost, seldom returns, I had not remained long
below, when the weather began to moderate :* this was followed by a

* This cheering moment of the seaman's life is finely illustrated by Mr. Moore, in
that exquisite poem Lalla Rookh : —

Hov7 calm, how beautiful comes on

The stilly hour when storms are gone :

When warring winds have died away,

And clouds, beneath the glancing ray,

Melt off, and leave the land and sea

Sleeping in bright tranquillity. Ed.

CAPTURE OF A GREEK VESSEL. «9

serene sky, which seemed to produce an electric effect on the barba-
rians, who, from a state of the utmost i^ar and pusillanimity, soon
changed their tone, and assumed their usual savage joy and native
ferocity. With respect to my own feelings, although the sea was
calm, the tempest of the mind still continued unabated.

Another source of horrid pleasure was soon afforded to the crew,
by a strange sail's being announced. While scarcely to be distinguished
with the aid of a spy-glass, chace was immediately given, and prepa-
rations made for battle. As if positive that an engagement would
take place, the Mahometans were animated to the approaching
combat, by a promise to those who might fall, of all the ineffable
delights which the houris of Paradise could bestow. It afterwards
turned out, that all this bombast was occasioned by a small Greek
ship : reminding me of him who borrowed the club of Hercules to
kill a frog ! Having soon reached the Greek, she was not found to be
so easy a conquest as the Algerines expected ; and though with very
few guns on board, she made a brave and determined resistance.
Finding, however, that there were no means of escape, and in order to
diminish their value as a prize, previous to striking her colours, they
threw the most valuable part of their cargo overboard. So that when
the pirates boarded, with all the avidity of robbers who anticipate a
large treasure, they found themselves somewhat in the situation of
Gil Bias, when, on emptying the contents of the friar's bag, per-
ceived it contained only some old metals, and a few agnus Dei ! The
poorGreeks, however, paid dearly for their bravery, and were both abused
and bastinadoed directly they ascended the sides of the Algerine.

While occupied in the reflections suggested by my new situation,
and the ill-fortune which threw the Greeks into such barbarous
hands, I could not help thinking, in opposition to some moralists
who so warmly advocate the doctrine of a blind fatalism, that there
is a particular providence displayed in the history of all men's lives.
Be this as it may, we next encountered a Tunisian corvette ; and as
a fierce war raged between the two states at this time, the meeting

P 4

40 INHUVIVMTV.

was followed by an obstinate eut^agement. Being on deck in the
early part of it, we recollected that bullets pay no respect to persons :
as these soon came in somewhat too close contact with our ears, we
were far from being « notreaise; and however gratifying- it may be to
fight for one's religion, country, and king, we could see no pleasure
in dying for the Turks. This gave rise to our taking an early oppor-
tunity of quitting the tield ; and like what is related of a Genoese
passenger, were satisfied with putting our heads above the hatches
when the battle subsided, and asking whether Me had taken them,
or they us J Several broadsides having been exchanged, the Tunisian
was at length forced to surrender. It was then we had occasion to
witness the barbarous vengeance of an ungenerous enemy, in the
conduct of the Algerines towards their prisoners, who were all
put into irons, while their brave commander's head, struck of}' and
placed on a pike, was carried round the siiip in triumph ; it was
afterwards put up in a conspicuous point to be looked at, forming
a frightful spectacle to myself and companions. Nothing could
exceed the ferocious and turbulent exultation created by this great
victory. The Rais, big witli importance, fancied he had achieved
wonders ; and a long time was taken up in receiving the felicita-
tions of his officers and crew : we also thought it prudent to follow
their example ; although, to say the truth, we felt a sentiment of
pity for the Tunisians, seeing into what cruel hands they had
fallen. Without forgetting the divine precept of rejoicing with the
happy, and weeping with the unfortunate,* it was as well to secure a
little mildness on the part of our oppressors, by assuming an air of
satisfaction which it was impossible in reality to feel. The great have
been compared to windmills, which require a breeze before they
can be useful.

* After the battle of St. Quentin between Charles the Fifth, and Francis the First, the
Venetian senate sent its congratulations to the victors, and condolence to the defeated
party. When the ambassadors of the latter power remonstrated on the impropriety of this
conduct, the Doge replied, that he only acted in obedience to the sacred injunction.
Gaudete cum gaudentibus, fletè cum flentibus !

rOMFORTS OF ASSOCIATION. 41

Having, soon after the storm began, seen the brig containing the
rest of our companions in misfortune, sadly tossed about by the mer-
ciless waves, she was in a short time lost sight of; and it was now
four days since we last saw her, when she fortunately hove in sight ;
removing a state of the most painful anxiety for the safety of our
friends. When sufficiently close to the frigate they were all transferred
to her; so that we had the pleasure of being again united: a circum-
stance which afforded the greatest satisfaction to all the party. There
is a singular pleasure attached to association, whether amidst the ill-
fated children of adversity, or in the noisy tumult of battle; for the human
mind, when abandoned to itself and solitude, is generally desolate.

Our captain too, against whom there were so many just causes
of complaint, excited our commiseration, and all was forgotten. We
no longer beheld in him the author, but companion of our misfor-
tunes. Indeed the ci-devant king cut a wretched figure, thus fallen
from his ' high estate ;' and appeared sincerely afflicted with what
had happened to us. Perhaps he might have erred from imprudence
and temerity, rather than any wish of wilfully exposing us to so
great a risk. Be that as it may, the confession of our faults ought
to go a great way in expiating them ; and no virtue is more accept-
able to heaven than repentance. It is finely said in a book of
Hindoo morality, that the good man should not only pardon, but
even wish well to his enemy ; like the sandal tree, which, in its fall,
covers the axe with perfume, by which it has been felled. Learn,
says the poet Hafiz, from the shells of the sea, to fill the hand up-
lifted against thee, with pearls. Do you see that tree assaulted by a
cloud of stones ? What does it shower on those who throw them ?
Delicious fruits and odoriferous flowers !

" Ah !" exclaimed the poor Boschi, Avhose life was written by
the witty and satirical Landi;* "Ah! this ///è will surely be my

* The Abate Landi, a native of Talla, and vicar of San Giovanni, near Arezzo, was
a man of incomparable wit, possessing extraordinary talents in the more facetious walks

42 FILTHY CREW.

death !" An expression which ficquently occurred to myself while pent
up in the filthy Algerine ship, where every object combined to make
us weary of life. In the first place, ovir crew Avere composed of almost
every race sent forth by the Afi'ican continent, with the addition of
several of the Levantine banditti, who are yearly imported from
Smyrna, and otlier parts of Turkey, for the service of the regencies ;
and there was as great a diversity of colour, as nations ; from the
flat-nosed natives of Tornbuctoo, to the white and ferocious descend-
ants of the Almohades. By way of rendering the scene still more
obnoxious, this motley crew were all either affected with some corrod-
ing humour, or swarming with vermin. Constantly expecting that
a plague, the natural companion of so much filth, would break out,
and doomed to see these stupid fatalists with lighted lamps, and pipes
in every part of the vessel ; our anxiety between such a consoling choice
of evils, is not to be easily described ; and made me often wish for
the tub of Diogenes. As to the gloomy hole in which we went
through the painful ceremony of attempting to sleep, it could only be
described in the language, and compared to the Inferno of our im-
mortal poet :

of poetic composition. Towards the end of his days, however, owing perhaps to their
satirical turn, he consigned several valuable productions to the flames ; but I believe there
are still many remaining at Arezzo, and amongst others some cantos of the Boscheide, a
strong satire, professing to give the life of Boschi, another ecclesiastic in the neighbourhood.
The latter was so deeply affected by its severity, that he conjured the bishop of his diocese
to prevail on Landi to withdraw the poem ; concluding his application by emphatically
saying, that " Landi's life would be his death." On applying to the satirist for this pur-
pose, his answer to the prelate was, Nolo mortem peccaioris ; convertaiur et vivat. A
butcher of Arezzo, who had amassed a large fortune, having built a fine palace near the
town, was desirous of an inscription from Landi for his new villa, and received the follow-
ing, Ossibus et nervis compegisti me; and which, not happening to be very profoundly
versed in the Latin, he caused to be duly engraved on a large slab of marble, and fixed
over the hall door ! Upon another occasion, when a question arose as to the propriety of a
small corporation continuing its annual offering of a pig to a grandee of the country, Landi,
whose opinion was asked, coolly replied, " You may do whatever you please, gentlemen ;
hut the hog will always Uloug lo him .''

ALGERINE GENEROSITY. 43

Oscura, p rofond'era, e nebulosa

Tanto, che per ficcar lo viso al fondo

r non vi discernea veruna cosa. Inf. C. iv.*

Packed together like herrings, ours was truly the bed of Pro-
crustes. Stretched along the decks in the manner of the Turks,
obliged to eat our wretched meal with the lowest part of the crew,
and only supplied with wooden spoons, such as used by the Capu-
chins of Italy, we were invariably under the necessity of waiting
till the beautiful mouths of our black and tawny companions were
filled. The beverage consisted of putrid water, which was handed
round to the company in a large earthen pitcher. Cuscousou was the
unvarying dish; and if we occasionally felt inclined to season it with
any thing, it was necessary to have recourse to a miserable steward,
named Solyman, who exacted an exorbitant price for the most trifling-
indulgence ; and as the Rais had generously taken all our money
into his deposit, something like confiding pork to the care of a cat ;
it was vain to expect any supply from our obdurate keeper. A
young ofiicer having applied to his prince for an increase of pay,
representing his present means as altogether inadequate to his wants,
the latter, attentively surveying his person, obsei-ved, tliat it was not
usual for people to look so fat and healthy upon short allowance.
" Please your highness," said the ofiicer, " this round face is not
mine, but belongs to my hostess, a good soul, who has hitherto been
kind enough to give me credit!" Far otherwise with the stingy
Solyman, over whose door we might well have inscribed. Pay to-day,
and trust to-morrow ! Our starving situation had some affinity to a
poor and secluded sisterhood of Arezzo, to whom the vivacious Landi,
already mentioned, presented a cage in which a beautiful canary bird
was enclosed, together with a graceful copy of verses, in which the

* Now thro' the void and viewless shadows drear,
Short sighs, thick coming, led the lisfning ear.
Trembling iu murmurs low along the gale. Boyd.

44 ALLEVIATIONS OF MISFORTUNE.

poet makes the nuns address the bird on the striking analogy of their
respective conditions. " Thou, sweet bird, art shut up in your cage;
and so are we in our convent. You salute the morning with your
mellifluous notes, and our song is heard at every dawn. You fre-
quently chirp at the wires of your little cage, while we often buzz
and hum at our grate. But more happy than us, you are always well
supplied with a crust and millet ; whereas we are seldom at table,
and rather live by our sighs." The address concludes thus:

Quanto, o vago augelin, la nostra vita
Delia tua si può dir puì sventurata ;
A te non s'impedisce che 1' uscita,
E noi Siam senza uscita e senza entrata !

The affairs of this world are infinitely varied, presenting an
endless diversity in their appearance and character: and it is so ordered
by a beneficent Providence, that there is scarcely any situation, how-
ever unfortunate, which does not admit of some alleviation. This
ordinance of the Divinity w as not thrown away upon us ; and in the
midst of our troubles, we had sufficient strength of mind to reflect,
that when inquietude and agitation are only calculated to render the
intricate web of fate more difficult to be unravelled, prudence sug-
gests the necessity of patiently yielding to its inscrutable decrees. If
not happy or resigned, there is at least a possibility of being tranquil
in the worst situations. The truth of this assertion has been proved
in a variety of instances. A prisoner of distinction, who had been
for some time shut up in the Bastille, confessed the days he p assed
there, were far from being the most unhappy of his life. The great
Menzicoff" knew how to find consolation, when exiled in the wilds
of Siberia; and Cervantes began his inimitable romance in the
prisons of Agamanzillas.

Having regained a little of that dignity, of which the first shock
of adversity deprived us, we began to feel that degree of pride, and
even haughtiness, whicli self-love generally makes the offspring of

TRAITS OP CHARACTER. 45

misfortune in well regulated minds.* This sentiment led to a more
dispassionate examination of our real condition, in which the good
and evil parts of it were duly appreciated. It is true, our diet was
not of the finest quality ; but hunger, the best of all sauces, made us
eat ; and though our bed was not of down, yet habit enabled us to
sleep. It must be confessed, that the never changing dish of Cuscou-
sou was rather irksome. But though in the hands of pirates, we
were out of irons; so that upon the whole, our case was not quite so
hopeless as we at first imagined. The two lovely children of Madame
Rossi, both emblems of innocence, were the natural care of Heaven,
and its protection was bounteously extended to us on their account.
It was only necessary to send Luigina round amongst the Turks,
and she was sure to return with her little apron full of dried figs and
other fruits. She was to us poor penitents, what the dove had been
to the holy anchorites of Upper Egypt. Such is the effect of inno-
cence, even upon barbarians ! f

On a more intimate acquaintance, we discovered some very ho-
nourable exceptions to the general character of the Algerines ; and
amongst others, I shall always recollect with pleasure, Achmet the
son of an Arab prince, who really possessed several very excellent
qualities. This young man acted as secretary to the Rais, and having
visited most of the European ports, spoke French and Italian fluently.
It is also but just to mention, the aga of the Turkish militia; and it
would be deviating from the strict impartiality of my views, were I
not to declare that there was no personal insult offered to our party,
while on board the frigate : and above all, it was most gratifying to
observe, that the females were treated with the utmost deference. To

* It was said of a lady that she had too much pride : she replied, " I am haughty,
but not proud." " What difference do you make then, between haughtiness and pride?"
" Why, that pride is offensive, and haughtiness merely defensive."'

t Madame de Genlis observes, that if you ask the greatest criminals, whether they
were ever fond of children, they will reply in the negative.

46 A CONVERSAZIONE.

be sure, tliey were sometimes obliged to reply to the flattering- com-
pliments and gallant questions of the Turks. During their conversation
the Muselmen often reminded me of Capuchin noviciates. The Rais
too began to invite us occasionally into his cabin, where an Arab tale
was recited, and what was still better, a cup of good Yemen coffee
handed round, followed by a small glass of rum, that is to say, of our
own, which had been taken out of the brig. Those are not the
worst species of robbers, who take with one hand, and return a little
of the stolen property with the other.

But who could have supposed, that on board an Algerine corsair,
amidst uncultivated Africans, we had our conversazioni, academies,
and routs, and almost a musical opera Ì We regularly assembled to
hear their harsh ditties, and witness the awkward dances of the Moors
and negroes ; and when asked to sing in our turn, were determined
not to be outdone in politeness. Cantabit vacuus coram latrane via-
tor. We, in fact, thought ourselves so many Orpheus's on board the
ships of the Argonauts ; while the black listeners appeared softened
by the tender melody of our Italian music : like the assassin, by the
dulcet sounds of Stradella ;* or Thalaba, at the aerial tones of Cara-
doc's harp. AVe saw, that even amidst barbarians, the best way of
gaining the affections and esteem of society, is to mingle in its rational
amusements. Like the rest of the world, they estimated our merits in
proportion as we could enjoy ourselves ; and, to be thought clever, it
V was only necessary to be affable.

It has been observed, that nature produces the blossom before she

* The celebrated Stradella, one of the finest musicians of his day, having eloped with
a beautiful woman whom he afterwards married, excited the resentment of her parents to
such a degree, that they hired two assassins for the purpose of dispatching him : these,
determined to execute their design, placed themselves at a church door in which the musi-
cian was presiding at an oratorio, and were so affected by his exquisite strains, that when
the moment of putting their murderous plan into effect arrived, they fell at his feet, and
with tears confessed the horrible scheme in which his relations had engaged them.

PUBLIC CHARACTERS. 47

gives the fruit. A young man once presented a memorial to a minis-
ter, soliciting a trifling situation in the customs ; the an.swer consisted
of those common-place assurances of oflice which generally end in
smoke : previous, however, to his going away, the supplicant took the
liberty of telling the great man, that he had also rendered his petition
into verse ; the minister, who had dined « la rose, and taken his wine,
replied smilingly, that he was curious to see how a petition for a
place in the custom-house could be expressed in poetry. The verses
were then recited, upon which the minister, who was a connoisseur,
and had liimself written a few sonnets to the eye-brows, could not.
help acknowledging, that they possessed ease and facility. " Seeing
that your excellency has so much condescension," rejoined the young
aspirant, " permit me to infonn you, that I have also set the verses to
music." " Indeed !" said the minister : " that must really be a new
coinage." Having gratified his excellency in this particular, he next
proceeded to inform him, that he had composed a htiUcl, which he
followed up by a pas seni. This was the ne jilus ultra of perfec-
tion, and led to the petitioner's immediate appointment, not to a
place in tlie customs, but to be one of tlie minister's secretaries ;
where he soon became a dog in oflice : proving, that talents of the
heel are sometimes preferred to those of the head, in the choice of
public characters.*

Notwithstanding the consoling result of our more philosophical
reflections, our uncertainty with regard to the future, could not fail
to be an occasional source of uneasiness. Without putting us in irons,
or making us work, we could not forget that they were in full pos-

* I have never heard of any very particular instance of a talent for dancing having
been instrumental in raising any one from obscurity into official importance. Not so with
singing, which is said to have placed many a man in the sun-shine of court favor, some-
times elevating them from the humble office of scribe to the dignity of a foreign embassy.
I have also heard that the corps diplomatique in a certain court of Italy, I will not say of
what country, is chiefly occupied in strumming on the guitar, taking lessons in singing, and
learning to perform the dignified offices of cicisòeoism .'—Ed.

48 DELUSIVE HOPES.

session of our persons, unlimitedly exercising la loi da plus fort on
all our effects. In this state of doubtful ambiguity, our situation
was not unlike the countr^^nan of the fable, whose ass was magically
taken away, leaving him on the saddle to reflect on his new posi-
tion. In adversity, however, it is infinitely better to draw a favour-
able inference from the future, than harass the mind with phantoms
of imaginary evils. The art of ingeniously tormenting ourselves by
the anticipation of ills which may never arrive, is not amongst the
least of human weaknesses. Nothing can be more true than that the
greatest sorrows lose much of tlieir intensity by contact ; and that while
the mind is occupied in conjuring up ideal misery, it feels all the
severity of real misfortune which may never occur. By a parity of
reasoning, people with this melancholy turn, are at once guilty of
ingratitude to heaven for its protecting vigilance, and of injustice
towards themselves, in not drdy estimating their real share of hap-
piness.

Upon the whole, after some days our prospects assumed rather a
brighter aspect, and we began to consider our case as one of those
episodes, to which, in some shape or another, most travellers are
occasionally subject ; and that, however unpleasant for the time, the
jecapitulation of our present adventures would be a source of amuse-
ment in a future day. " Knight errants," says Sancha Panza, " are
always prepared either to become emperors, or receive a good drub-
bing !" We, too, began to imbibe a little of that stoical philoso-
phy, which supported the knight of La Mancha ; fondly anticipat-
ing that on our arrival at Algiers, we should quietly be suffered to
range about in perfect libert\'. Even the novelty of seeing a country,
so new and strange to us, was not unaccompanied with a feeling of
pleasure. As but too generally happens, . when castle building com-
mences, the airy architect seldom knows when to stop : so it was with
lis. The merchant Terreni's imagination had already presented a hun-
dred profitable speculations. He was determined to buy a large assort-

PLEASURES OF HOPE. 49

ment of carpets, and other valuable commodities ; the painter pro-
posed to delineate the interior of the Dey's palace ; while our ladies
fancied themselves embellished with the finest shawls of Barbary, and
perfumed by its otto of roses. How delightful this tendency in our
nature to soften the rigours of adversity, by illusory dreams of future
felicity! " To whom has it not occurred," says Madame de Stael,
" that while oppressed with the deepest afflictions, a sweet impulse
arises in the soul, whispering a speedy termination to its woes : like
the celestial sounds which charmed the pious wanderers of the The-
baid, announcing that the salutary stream was about to issue from the
rock?" The eloquent Chateaubriand observes, that " hope banished
from the habitations of the rich, has taken up its abode in the midst
of the unhappy : watching over man, like a tender mother at the bed
of her sickly offspring ; she rocks him in her arms, nourishing him
with a balm for all his sorrows ; her vigils are kept over his solitary
pillow, while her magic song lulls him to repose !" " You," said a
lady to the friend of her early life, " were, in those fortunate days of joy
and happiness, beautiful as hope !" It is hope that gives wings to
love, and plucks the thorn from despair. It is, in fact, pleasure in
flower and in leaf !

The Rais into whose hands we had the honour of falling, was
named Hamida, and though possessing a swarthy complexion, and
rather fierce physiognomy, his manners were by no means repulsive.
Notwithstanding the almost invariable rule at Algiers, of conferring
all important commands on the Janizaries, this man had advanced
to the rank of grand admiral, although a Moor, and even one of
the ignoble race of the Cubail. His chief claims to power, were de-
rived from merit and reputation, titles which preserved him in office,
in defiance of a large Turkish cabal, which tried every means to sup-
plant him. Hamida was really endowed with talents and courage;
he was above all, extremely fertile in expedients, being indebted to
his most brilliant successes for his ability in this way. Having when
young, served with the Portuguese, he was now considered as the

H

OO THE RAIS HAMIDA.

best naval officer in the Regency. While only in the command of a
small shabeque, he evinced many proofs of ability, and made several
valuable prizes ; extending his cruizes as far as Madeira, and the
banks of Newfoundland, where he was also very successful against
the Americans. But the grand enterprize, which acquired him so
much popularity, placing his name on a level with those of Sinan
and Dragut, was his capture of a large Portuguese frigate, the very
ship in which, as grand admiral, he was destined to make slaves of
myself and companions. For this singular instance of good fortune,
he was, however, indebted to a ruse de guerre, aided by the inadver-
tency of the Portuguese captain, who having communicated with an
English frigate, and lost sight of her, shortly after saw another,
which from the weather's being rather foggy, he took to be the same
ship, and consequently made no preparations for action. It happened,
however, to be the corsair of Rais Hamida, who displaying an
English ensign, approached the unsuspecting Portuguese ; and was
not discovered until he came within hail, upon which he immediately
laid the enemy on board, and by a coup de main took possession of
his prize, before the officers and crew had time even to arm for their
defence.

Once, while in the neighbourhood of Pantellaria, he made so
many friendly signals, as to induce the commandant to believe,
that his was a British ship of war. With this idea he went off to
Hamida's ship, and was not only retained, but loaded with chains.
The predominant defect of Hamida's character, like that of most other
people, was his fancying himself a man of great virtue. Distin-
guished merit becomes lessened by self-examination, while mediocrity
is viewed by its possessor in an inverse ratio. Eyes were not given
for the purpose of looking into ourselves. The Rais was also fond
of depreciating the merits of others, by attributing every success to
his own bravery and talents ; like his prototypes in the more civilized
world. This arrogant feeling had the effect of making Hamida under-
take more than he could, by his single exertions, ever hope to per-

CONDUCT AND CHARACTER. 51

perform. He might indeed be with propriety compared to an officer,
who boasted of being his own colonel, his own lieutenant, and liis
own sergeant, " Yes," said another, " and your own trumpeter also!"
Nor was Hamida by any means strict in repressing the excesses or
love of plunder, so natural to his crew, upon both of which he fre-
quently shut his eyes. This conduct he justified, by saying these were
trifles below the attention of a good general. Besides, he was not am-
bitious of sharing the fate of two of his predecessors, who from wish-
ing to restrain the Janizaries on similar occasions, lost their lives.
He scarcely ever walked about the ship, but seated cross-legged on
a conspicuous part of the deck, he generally passed three or four
hours of the day, occupying himself between the intervals of giving
orders, in smoking, and smoothing down his mustachios. In action
too, though he displayed both valour and intelligence, his violence
and impatience was a source of constant annoyance to his inferiors.
Cardinal Dubois, who was equally notorious for sudden bursts of pas-
sion, generally vented on his poor secretaries; once in a great press
of business, swore that he must add at least thirty more to conclude
it " Take only one, to abuse us for you," tranquilly replied an em-
ploye, " and all will go on with order and celerity !"

Driven about by adverse winds, we at one time came in sight of
the fatal spot in which, previous to taking shelter in San Pietro, we
saw the squadron. The barbarians seemed, at this period, to be at once
the rulers and terror of the ocean : not a vessel could leave tlieir
port, and the smallest coasting boats, could alone avoid them ; by
creeping along the shore during the night. The southerly winds con-
tinuing, I at last beheld the Italian peninsula, and even Tuscanv,
the place of my birth, but under what circumstances ! And in what
a situation ! It was thought we had discovered an American, with
which nation the Algerines were then at war, but proving to be French
the chase was abandoned ; upon another occasion, we came in contact
with a vessel having an English pass from the consul at Cagliari, but

II 2

52 A NEW CAPTURE.

whose crew was composed of Genoese and Tuscans. When sufficiently
near, they were ordered to send tlieir boat and papers on board ; and
on this occasion, I had the honor of being selected as the Rais's inter-
preter. This aiforded me the gratifying opportunity of being service-
able to my compatriots, who were made excessively ill at ease by the
rencontre ; and in the midst of my own troubles, it was no trifling
consolation to reflect, that by giving the most favourable explanation
of their papers to the Rais, I might be instmmental in hastening
their liberation. I was not deceived in this hope, and we had soon
after the pleasure of seeing our trembling countrymen finally released.
It was not, however, without some little uneasiness that I reflected
on the impression which my temporary elevation, and apparent fami-
liarity with the Algerine commander, might have made on the visitors;
who, in the event of returning to Tuscany, would perhaps represent
matters in a light not the most flattering to my feelings. It would have
produced a fine effect amongst my Florentine acquaintance, some of
whom are far from inimical to a little scandal, to hear that the hum-
ble Fillipo Pananti was a great man in Algiers ; ofHciating as the
fuc totum and jiroto-quamquam of the lord high admiral. Such a
representation, the gobes tnoiiches of Florence might have readily
magnified into a change of religion and a pilgrimage to Mecca, toge-
ther with the various other blessings attendant on apostacy.

E come dir di me questo si debbc,
E creder ch'io sia Turco e che assassini,
Io che faccio una vita che potrebbe
Farla il padre guardian dei Cappuccini ?

Those who were disposed to think of me in this way would have
done me but little justice : in the hands of the Moors, as poor Gil Bias
wasin those of Orlando and his companions, it was much more difficult
to escape from the frigate than from the cavern. Instead of having only
to elude the vigilance of Domingo, there were a hundred athletic Turks
with bludgeons, which would at any time have beeu as unmercifully

PROPOSED DESCENT ON ITALY. 53

applied to my shoulders, as that of the old negro's was to those of Le
Sage's hero on his first attempt to leave the sou f errai n.^^

Rais Hamida having began to indulge an idea, that a successful
descent might be made on the coast of Naples, a council of war was
forthwith assembled, in order to discuss this weighty matter. Councils
of war are generally fatal to the execution of great enterprizes, as
fear gladly shields itself under the mask of prudence. The accuracy
of this remark was fully exemplified on the present occasion ; when,
instead of landing on the coast of Naples, the junta prudently deter-
mined to pass the approaching feast of Bayram in Algiers. Gratify-
ing as it was, to see the piratical scourge removed from the coasts ot
Italy, yet we left them with feelings of regret ; a sentiment easily
conceived by those who consider the peculiarity of our situation. It
is related of a Frenchman driven from Paris, in the heat of the revo-
lution, that he was so attached to his native country, that, rather
than lose sight of it altogether, he embarked his family on the Rhine,
where he continued with his eyes constantly fixed on the frontiers,
until better times enabled him to return.

Previous to our sailing in the immediate direction of Algiers, we
made a winding course towards Marseilles. And this was even fol-
lowed by a determination to take a turn on the coast of Tunis. Thus,
after having witnessed their efforts against Christianity, we were des-
tined to see them repeated on their own fraternity. If any persons
were ill-natured enough to insinuate, that we had, by thought or
deed, participated in the triumph of the infidels, our co-operation in
their attempts upon the Tunisian coast, would, no doubt, be regarded
in a much more favourable point of view. As in the case of an igno-
rant student of Italy, who was considered by his more learned judges,

* I am inclined to believe, that these remarks of the author were excited by some
others, which were made by certain chiaccheroni of Florence, that might have occasionally
amused themselves at the expence of poor Pananti, who would most willingly joke upon
any subject except that of his excursion to Algiers. — Ed.

54 WAR BETWEEN ALGIERS AND TU. MS.

unworthy of a medical diploma, but obtained it nevertheless, in con-
sequence of stating, that he was going- to practice in Turkey !

From the coast of France till we arrived on that of Sfax and Susa,
we encountered no adventure worthy of notice ; and the sea was so
destitute of ships, tliat Rais Hamida might exclaim with the Corsair
of Lord Byron, that the solitude of waters was not enlivened, even
by the sight of an enemy.

It may be proper in this place to give some account of the war,
which the Algerines and Tunisians waged against each other, at the
above period, luiequalled in virulence as it was frivolous in its motives ;
but however calculated to gratify party spirit, or vindictive zeal, the
true followers of Ismalism well knew that

Corsaires attaquant corsaires,
Ne font point leurs affaires:

SO that its chief popularity rested with the principal actors. Hostili-
ties had frequently broken out during the last thirty years, between the
two regencies, and most probably, resulted in reality from that jealousy
so natural to neighbouring states of nearly equal power. Strengthened
Jiy the claims for tribute money insisted on by the government of
Algiers, for the very active part it had formerly taken in placing the
family of Hamouda Basha in that of Tunis, a valuable annual pre-
sent was made for many years after Hamouda's accession ; but as the
power and solidity of his government increased, he began to relax in
sending it with his former punctuality, at a time too, when custom
had induced the Dey of Algiers to consider it as his due. The pride
and anogance of those Algerines who frecpiented the Tunisian terri-
tory, had also become very intolerable ; and the ukild, or ambassador
of Algiers resident at Tunis, wished to exercise an authority equal
to that of the Bey. Tired of such repeated indignities, the enraged
Hamouda swore by his beard, and the koran, thathcAVOuld no longer
bear such degradations : he therefore flatly refused to make any
future present, and even went so far as formally to declare war against

RELATIVE POWER. ÓÒ

bis oppressors. This step did not altogether please the pusillanimous
individuals of his divan, but was loudly applauded by the populace.
Making at least a show of magnanimity, Hamouda asserted that the
most disastrous war was preferable to a dishonourable state of peace;
and for the successful termination of the present undertaking, he re-
lied on the justice of his cause, and its well known popularity amongst
the people.*

The Algerine government had a decided superiority over its rival
in numbers and treasure ; while that of Tunis had more stability.
Though Algiers could send more men into the field, the Tunisian
army possessed a greater moral force. The Algerine army was chiefly
composed of irregular troops, without pay or proper subsistence. Com-
pletely undisciplined, they separated and fled at the first disasters,
frequently putting their generals to death. The Tunisians were, on
the contrary, tolerably well paid, and consequently better affected
towards the Bey ; they had also a more improved artillery, which
was directed by several Christian slaves. Tunis derived another very
material advantage over the enemy, in the popular form of its govern-
ment, which, composed indiscriminately of Moors, Turks, and Arabs,
is infinitely more national than that of Algiers, arising from Tripoly
and Algiers being still exclusively in the hands of Turkish adventurers,
while the Tunisian government has tranquilly passed into those of a
Moorish family which has also become hereditary'. On the other hand,
the Algerines had a manifest advantage in their secret intercourse
and political influence with the Turkish soldiery of Tunis; who,
knowing that it formerly belonged to themselves, were naturally
anxious to regain their ascendancy, and thus be on an equality with
their Algerine brethren.!

The Tunisian forces consisted of four thousand Turkish soldiers,

* Hamouda seems to have argued as if he knew .something of European politics. — Ed.
t The subject is somewhat illustrated in the Letters from the Mediterranean, Vol. II.
Chap. IV. and V .—Ed.

56 TUNISIAN GOVERNMENT.

each of whom received about two-pence per diem : all their sons by
Moorish women, who amounted to several hundreds, and are obliged
to serve, besides the whole of the native warriors called the Zouavi.
Whenever war is declared, the Bey calls in all the youth ol' his king-
dom capable of bearing aims, the Bedouin chiefs never fail to
attend the summons, bringing with them a numerous cavalry, so
that upon great occasions the army may amount to nearly one hundred
thousand men. The naval force was composed of a forty gun frigate,
bought at Malta from English merchants, but previously taken from
the French ; and eight or nine smaller ships, mounting from thiiiy-
six to twenty guns, together with about fifteen gun-boats.

Although whenever the parties met, they fought desperately, yet
the war was conducted in the most indolent way imaginable ; without
any apparent object to be attained, or anxiety for its conclusion;
while neither of the belligerents were sufficiently active, to produce a
decisive result on its opponent. In the campaign which preceded our
appearance off" the coast, the Tunisian army had gained some very
considerable advantages, owing to the stratagems employed by a
Christian slave who superintended its artillery ; and, by fonning a
masked battery on a spot, near which the Algerine cavalry passed in
pursuit of the Tunisians, which destroyed a large portion of it. Upon
this occasion the whole army of Algiers was routed, and driven under
the walls of Constantina.

With respect to the government of Tunis, as already observed,
it is monarchical and hereditary : though, like all the Turkish states,
subject to incessant and violent revolutions. Previous to the accession
of Hamouda Basha, the Janizaries governed with undivided sway,
after the model of Algiers and Tripoly ; but they have, ever since,
notwithstanding their desperate efforts to regain power, been consi-
dered merely as auxiliaries. The brother and successor of Hamouda
Basha, Sydi Ottoman, who came into power in 1813, on the former's
death, had been chief aga of the Turkish soldiery, and still continued
to shew them great favour : this gave rise to a strong feeling of dissa^

TUNISIAN REVENUES. 57

tisfartion and jealousy on the part of the Moors. IJn<^iateful for the
benefits they were receiving, and even stimulated by their recent
exaltation, the Turks attempted to change the form of government,
or elect another bey tiom their own ranks, in the manner of their
fraternity at Algiers. This project ended in the total destruction of
the principal ringleaders, and degradation of the rest, to a level with
the Jews and Christian slaves. But they are a race, in whose hearts
the spirit of vengeance does not easily sleep ; as proved by various
commotions which have agitated Tunis since the above period ; and,
more particularly, upon a recent occasion, when, having determined
to make another attempt at revolt, they offered the reins of govern-
ment to a relatioii of Mahmoud Basha, the reigning Bey,* and on his
refusal, the leading Turk proposed himself as their future chief He
Avas violently opposed by the Zouavi, who finally succeeded in their
resistance to the traitors ; decapitating their leader, together with most
of his companions : a part of them, who had taken possession of the
Goletta, on hearing the result of the attempt in Tunis, immediately
seized four shabeques which lay in the road, and, proceeding up the
Levant, were captured by the Captain Pacha, who beheaded several
of them. Since that time, nothing very material has distinguished the
Tunisian history ; the government is now, no doubt, as firmly esta-
blished as violence and usurpation can make it.

The revenues of this state are collected at two diflTerent periods
of the year, when a large body of troops, of which one third is com-
j)osed of Turks and the remainder of Moors, commanded by a Caia,
with several agas under him, is employed to receive it, or enforce the
payment of taxes, if necessary. The camp is generally followed by
nine cooks or purveyors, who are much respected by the Moors, and

* This man is third brother of the late Bey Haraouda Basha ; and in order to obtain
power by the most popular means in Barbary, caused his brother who succeeded Hamouda
to be strangled with all his adherents ; and amongst the rest, the Zapa Tappa, and Mariano
Stinca,both particularly noticed in my account of Tunis. The latter I often warned of his
impending danger, advising him to get away before it was too late.^Ed.

•kS

PROGRESS OF THE CORSAIRS.

fiequently rise to the post of Doletros, or chief justices. Barbary is
not the only country in whicli a knowledge of the culinary art leads
to emohinient and place.

Rais Hamida having ineftectually prowled about the vicinity of
.Suez for some days, at length determined to make his appearance before
Tunis, in the hope either of enticing his enemies to come out, or pick
up a few prizes. The ridiculous attempts of both parties to make a
semblance of bravery, while in this neighbourhood, furnished a
pretty strong specimen of that mixture of ferocity and bombast which
has enabled these wretches so long to impose on the timid credulity
of nations; giving them credit for talents and valour, which no peo-
ple under the sanare farther from possessing.

On getting tolerably near the Goletta, the Tunisian squadron,
whether disinclined or unprepared for the combat, immediately hauled
in under the guns of the fort. Upon this. Rais Hamida, placing his
squadron within about four miles of them, began a most furious
though useless cannonade, which continued at intervals, during the
two days we remained otF the anchorage: not one shot having, in all
that time, reached its intended destination ; so that if no glory was
acquired, there was at least noise enough made. At length, after
various bravadoes on both sides, in which mutual defiance was sub-
stituted for action, our admiral seemed to say to his rival, " If you
don't come out, I am off!" and accordingly we directed our course
to the westward, along the Tunisian coast. Comment va le siege
de Gibralterf was asked during the glorious defence of General
Elliot. II va bien, il commence à se lever, was the answer. In com-
pliance with long established custom, I dare say, that in the present
in.stance, both sides claimed the victory; and, if following the example
of other nations, there had been bulletins and gazettes extraordinary,
we should, no doubt, have been favoured with a good stock of splen-
did descriptions and magnificent lies. While one party boasted ot
having obliged the enemy to retreat, the other might, with equal
truth assert, that his opponent fled in disorder. However trifling and

RECOLLECTIONS. ->J)

unimportant onr fiats before Tunis were, it was evident that each
party claimed the victory ; and for this purpose, signals of exultation
were mutually displayed. Without pretending to decide who had
most reason to congratulate himself on the result of his labours, the
many salutes which followed, strongly reminded me that there are
feux d' artifice, as well as feux de joiel

During the few days we continued to hover about this part of
Africa, it recalled a thousand recollections, which seemed to interest
and amuse the mind, at a time when it was glad to rely on any thing
for consolation.

In viewing the shores of Numidia and Mauritania, the names of
Dido, Juba, Syphax, Jugurtha, and Massanissa, passed in rapid suc-
cession over the imagination, as if only its own creation, and not the
sovereigns of great countries ! Pursuing the eccentric evolutions of
thought, and looking into the history of modern times, Sfax reminded
us of its bombardment and destruction by the Chevalier Emo, the
celebrated Venetian admiral. A sight of Tunis and the Goletta, was
calculated to call forth mingled sentiments of pity and admiration : on
the one hand, admiration for the heroic exertions of Charles the Fifth ;
who, even in a comparatively barbarous age, saw the impolicy of sufler-
ing lawlesshordes of pirates to plunder Europe, and arrest the progress
of civilization ; of pity, for the melancholy and premature fate which
attended Saint Louis, whose pious, though sometimes ill-directed exer-
tions, were, notwithstanding, thought worthy of canonization. Byrsa
too, once the illustrious Carthage, was before our eyes ! producing a
melancholy reflection upon the fleeting instability of earthly gran-
deur. Here was an end to all human distinctions and worldly priority.
Forgetting the errors of antiquity, our admiration was equally divided
between the virtuous inflexibility of Regulus in chains, and the stern
genius of Hannibal, yielding to the superior destinies of Rome.

In another quarter we pictured to ourselves the magnanimous
Agathocles of Syracuse, who landing on the Carthaginian territory,
burnt his fleet, so as to leave his troops no alternative between death
and victory. Farther on we beheld his glorious successor, whose price

I 2

(iO RUINS OF CARTilAGE.

of victory was the abolition of human sacrifices : here was the ancient
Ades, celebrated by the defeat of the Pnnic fleet ; there the Acque
Calide, near which the ships of Octavius were wrecked. The bay of
Adrametum, memorable for having afforded shelter to the conqueroi
of Pharsalia ; and the impetuous stream in which the intrepid Mas-
sanissa found a grave ! Nor was that inexorable scourge of Africa,
the sanguinary Genserie, whose path was marked by blood and rapine,
forgotten ; or the persecuted Belisarius, who, on the shore before us,
shook the empire of Vandalism. Whether, in fact, we contemplated the
dignified heroism of Asdrubal's wife, burying herself and children in
the flames ; or the maternal piety and generous nature of the tender
Sophonisba : all on this gloomy shore, once the region of incense and of
myrrh, and which in its days of triumph, was justly considered the most
prolific garden of the universe ; tended to excite reflection, and inspire
melancholy. It is true, the purity of its sky, and fecundity of soil is the
same : but, alas ! the iron hand of despotism has blasted all with steri-
lity and death ! What, indeed, cannot a government eftect, either to
create or destroy t Nearly the whole of our course along this part
of Africa, presented one continued scene of ruin and devastation, a
wide field of sorrowful remembrance. We love to dwell on the scat-
tered vestiges of ancient monuments, upon which the hand of time
is so deeply engraven ; and an immense space, is, as it were, united in
one small point. Seated on the ruins of time, we interrogate past ages :
and in contemplating, with a sublime hon-or, those spots, the solitary
proofs of man's nothingness, we recognize, with fear and trembling,
the sad instability of all human affairs.

Giace l'alta Cartago ; appena i segni

Dell' alte sue ruine il lido serba.

Muoiono le città, muoiono i regni :

Copre i fasti e le pompe arena ederba :

E l'uom d'esser mortai par che si sdegni

O nostra mente cupida e superba !*

* V. Gerusalemme Liberata, Cant. xv. thus imitated by Mr. Hoole :
Now to the knights the pilot damsel shew'd
The spot where once imperial Carthage stood.

ARRIVAL OFF BONA. 61

But, as Chateaubriand very properly remarks, the ruins of Africa
possess a character altogether peculiar to themselves, filling the mind
with the most gloomy images, without one consolatory reflection ; the
natural consequence of their being rather the result of barbarous vio-
lence and brutal rage, than the more slow and solemn operation of
time. The convulsions which have desolated this beautiful region, have
been infinitely more terrible, than the effects produced in other coun-
tries by the long course of ages : they present a dreary void, unaccom-
panied by any regenerating power. Time, lending his scythe to death,
saw him in an instant, destroy that, which might otherwise have
been preserved for many centuries ; and which it required ages of
human labour to create : all is ruin in this world, but the greatest
destroyer is man !

The winds not being altogether favorable for our getting to
Algiers, we put into Bona ; and the anchors were scarcely down, when
the Turkish soldiers, armed from head to foot, rushed on shore like a
torrent, and, as if in an enemy's country, began to plunder the inha-
bitants without mercy ; imitating the well known troops of organized
banditti, who ravaged Italy during the fifteenth century. Strange to
reflect ! The same religion and government is, in this country, no pro-
tection to the people, when it suits the convenience of the licentious
soldiery to rob and pillage. We observed from on board, several of the
natives seeking safety in flight, and carrying oft" as many valuables
as they could from the apparently general plunders of the town.

Bona is generally thought to be the Hippo Regius of antiquity,
of which St. Augustine was the bishop ; it was a royal city of
Numidia, which, in the manner of France, under Buonaparte, had
also its cities of the first, second, and third order. Dr. Shaw is.

Ill-fated Carthage I Scarce, amidst the plains,

A trace of ail her ruin'd pomp remains !

Proud cities vanish, states and realms decay,

The world's unstable glories fade away !

Yet mortals dare of certain fate complain ;

O impious folly of presuming man ! Ed.

G2 DESCRIPTION OF BONA.

however, of opinion, tliat Hippo was situated a mile to the south-
ward of Bona. The inhabitants of this place, during the middle
ages, carried on an extensive trade in figs, calling them after their
favourite saint. Near the town, some ruins are shewn to this day,
which are said to have formed a part of the convent in which he
resided. The chief vestiges of Roman antiquity seen at this place,
consist of some arcades, with double roofs, in which the bricks
are of a very large size, most probably cisterns ; a mosaic pavement,
and tracks of a road like the Appian way.*

The river Seibouse, which joins the sea at Bona, is choked up
at its entrance with sand, and consecjuently not capable of admitting
large vessels ; the roadstead is rather open, and exposed to northerly
winds. Its principal defence consists of a strong fort that commands
the town, and the conquest of which, together with Bona itself, formed
a memorable event in the more enterprizing days of the Florentine
history, when the knights of San Stefano carried the terror of our
arms all over the Mediten-anean, but more particularly into Africa.
To what a source of bitter reflection did not this visit to Bona lead in
our anxious thoughts ! Our brave ancestors had concjuered it, and
we were brought there as slaves ! In these enlightened days, the
insignificant states of Tripoly, Tunis, and Algiers, insulted, with
impunity, every power in Europe ; capturing the ships of some, and
condemning the crews to slavery. While, in former times, the galleys
of Tuscany were more than a match for them, wresting the Balearic

* On the subject of Bona Dr. Shaw observes, that besides the capacious road before
it to the east, " it had formerly a convenient little port under its very walls to the south-
ward ; but by the constant discharge of ballast into the one, and neglect of cleansing the
other, both are daily rendered less safe and commodious." — A true picture of the preser-
vative virtues of a Barbary government I In another place he adds, "Bona has the
advantage of being finely situated both for commerce and hunting ; it enjoys an healthful
air, and affords so fine a prospect, that the eye takes in at one view the sea, a spacious
roadstead, several mountains covered with trees, and plains finely watered : so that by
repairing the old ruins, and introducing fresh water into the town, it might be rendered
one of the most delightful and flourishing places in Barbary.'' Vide Shaw's Travel!?. — £d.

ADVANTAGEOUS POSITfON. 63

islands from their liauds, and vindicating- past injuries, by the most
brilliant achievements gained over Musetto, king of the Saracens,
whom they dispossessed of Sardinia.

The situation of Bona, its spacious bay, and easy communication
with the interior, would, under a different order of things, make it
one of the tirst commercial eujporiums in Africa. Nor is it unimportant
to observe, that, as an eligible place for disembarking troops and
artillery, or, after they are on shore, enabling them to commence
immediate operations, this point is hardly equalled by any other on
the whole continent. The more ample consideration of this important
question, will be discussed in another part of the work.

64 ARRIVAL AT ALGIERS.

CHAPTER III.

Arrival in Algiers. — Landing. — Appearance before the Heads of the Govern-
ment.— Prison of the Slaves, — First Day in Slavery. — The Employment. —
Hours of Repose. — Public Works. — Liberation. —Arrival at the British Con-
sulate's.— Lost Riches. — Still greater Losses. — Consolations. — Unfortunate
Companions. — Mode of living at Algiers.

Having closed the work of plunder, and procured some refresh-
ments, not the least agreeable part of the visit, to us ; the squadron
again set sail, and, steering along the coast of Mauritania, we had
an opportunity^ of observing those objects, so happily described b\
Carlo and Ubaldo, when sent to draw Rinaldo from his inglorious
retreat.

At length several white specks began to rise in the western hori-
zon, and a fine breeze soon brought us in sight of the great centre of
piracy, so justly apostrophised by the poet,

Nido Algeri di ladri infame ed empio.*

Algiers forming an extensive semi-circle of hills rising in araphi-
theatric beauty round the city, and many of them studded with
country houses, is exceedingly interesting and picturesque as seen
from the sea ; while the numerous vineyards, orange and olive
groves which surround the town, shewing great marks of industry
and cultivation, does not bear much analogy to the fierce character and
vagrant life of these African tyrants. On approaching the anchorage,
a shout of joy ran through the frigate, and marked the satisfaction of

* Algiers ! abode of robbers, cruel and impious. Tasso.

LANDING, (J5

the barbarians, nor had we any reason to be otherwise than rejoiced
at the idea of having terminated our tedious voyage, embittered as it
was by such misfortunes. So perfectly comparative are our notions
of happiness, that the prospect of landing at Algiers, which, under
any other circumstances, would have created the utmost horror, was,
in the present instance, hailed with a degree of joy little inferior to
that experienced by the first Templers on seeing Jerusalem. Like
the patient, who, rather than bear the agony arising from his
wounds, submits to a painful operation, we flattered ourselves,
that the end of the cruize would also be that of our sufferings. St.
Pierre has ingeniously compared adversity to the black mountain
Beruber, on the confines of the burning kingdom of Lahor ; the
ascent to whicli is impeded by craggy rocks and frightful precipices,
but having once reached the summit, the sky becomes serene, while
the beautiful plains of Cashamere are seen spreading in the dis-
tance.

No sooner had the ships anchored, than pieparations were made
to land ; when Rais Hamida, with a stern voice, inspired no less by
his natural ferocity, than a consciousness of having us now completely
in his power, ordered the Sicilian seamen into the long-boat,
under charge of the Aga ; while the passengers were destined to
grace his own splendid triumph. In this crisis, at which another
important change was about to be effected in our situation, I could not
help recalling to mind, those terrible lines inscribed over the Inferno,

Per me si va nella città dolente :

Per me si va neil' eterno dolore :

Per me si va fra la perduta gente ! *

which Rais Hamida seemed to repeat on desiring us to follow him

* Inferno, Canto III. thus most inadequately rendered into English:
Thro' me the newly damn'd for ever fleet,
in ceaseless shoals to Pain's eternal seat;
ii1-.ro' roe they march, and join the torturati crew. B-jyd.
K

Od TRIBUTE UF GKATITUDE.

into the pinnace, appointed to convey us on shore; towards which we
now directed our course, followed by our mournful companions in the
Aga's charge. On the Rais's landing, he immediately ordered us to
form a procession in his rear, and then moved on, with as much self-
importance, as Sesostris with his four rebellious kings, or the ferocious
Timur, conducting Bajazet in his iron cage.

An immense concourse had collected on the beach, to welcome
with acclamations the triumphant return of the pirates: but we were
neither plundered nor insulted, a treatment which many Christian
slaves are said to have met with, on disembarking at this inhospitable
place.

In the manner of the Roman ovation, we made a long circuit, to
arrive at the palace destined for holding examinations of captives, and
finally condemning their prizes. The Rais entered the building, while
we remained outside of the door until called for. " What were you doing
underthatlargeheapof ruins ''"was asked of the Duchessof Popoli, who
remained three days alone under the arch of a palace destroyed in the
great earthquake of Calabria. " I waited," replied her grace.

A large awning being extended in front of the house, the scene
shortly opened, exhibiting the members of the regency, in barbarous
pomp and horrid majesty, seated before us ; accompanied by the
ulemas, or expounders of the law and principal agas of the divan.
We were then, without farther ceremony or preamble, asked for our
papers, which were duly examined ; nor was that canting gravity
wanting on this occasion, which is usually assumed to justify acts of
rapine and plunder. They were then presented to the English consul,
whose presence is always required on these examinations, to verify any
claim he may have to make. This gentleman soon saw the insuffici-
ency of our documents ; but, stimulated by the goodness of his heart,
and sentiments of pity for persons in our unhappy condition, he made
every possible exertion to extricate us from the appalling dilenima
with which we were now threatened. The circumstance of some of
the party being natives of a country united to the dominion of France,

DELIVERANCE OF A FAMILY. 67

did not restrain the consul's generous efforts: we were unfortunate,
and that was sufficient to ensure the protection of an Englishman.
But Rais Hamida boldly sustained the remorseless laws of piracy :
drawing the finest distinctions imaginable between domiciliation and
nationality, he proved himself a most able jurisconsult, according, at
least, to the African code of public laws.

" A good prize ! Prisoners I Slaves !" was now murmured through
the council, and soon communicated to the crowd assembled without;
which, by its cries and vociferation, seemed to demand such a deci-
sion. The British consul then formally demanded the English lady and
her two children ; upon this being accorded, the Chevalier Rossi, her
husband, advanced a few steps, and with dignified courage, supported
his claim to liberation, on the principle of having married an English
woman, and of also being the father of two British subjects, his chil-
dren : this application being successful, he soon rejoined his anxious
wife and children. Another attempt was now made in favor of usali
by the consul, but without effect: this was followed by a cry in the
hall of Schiavi! Schiavi! " slaves, slaves;" which horrible word was
echoed by the multittide. The members of the council then rose, and,
on the assembly's being dissolved, the consul and his attendants,
together with the Chevalier Rossi and family departed ; leaving us the
tlevoted victims of slavery, in a state of immoveable insensibility, as
«ne who scarcely hears the thunder, when he is enveloped by the
lurid glare of its lightning.

Before we had recovered from our stupor, we were led off under
Oie Grande Scrivano and Guardian JSasha, who conducted us
over a considerable part of the city, accompanied by a great number
4jf spectators. It being Friday, the Moorish sabbath, hundreds of
the infidels, in coming from the mosques, were soon attracted in
every direction, to enjoy this new spectacle of degraded Christi-
anity.

Anived at Pascialick, or palace of the Pasha, inhabited at
present by theDey; the first objects that struck our eyes were six
K 2

68 IMPRISONMENT.

bleeding heads ranged along before the entrance ! I ! And as if this
dreadful sight was not sufficient of itself, to harrow up the soul, it
was still farther aggravated, by the necessity of our stepping
over them, in order to pass into the court. They were the
heads of some turbulent agas, who had dared to murmur against
the Dey's authority. Our fears naturally represented them, as
having been severed from the bodies of Christians, and purposely
placed there, to terrify the new inmates of this fatal region. A
dead silence reigned within the Avails of the building, in which
suspicion seemed to have made her abode ; while fear was depicted
in every face. Being ordered to range ourselves before the Dey's
window, to feast the despot's eyes, he soon approached, looked
at us with a mingled smile of exultation and contempt, then making
a sign with his hand, we were ordered to depart; and after a third
circuit of the town, arrived before a large dark looking building, on
entering which, we stumbled, as if by an involuntary impulse. It
was the great Bagno, or house of reception for Christian slaves.
Hence one of its pompous titles Bajios os Esclavos, which, without
gilding the pill quite so much, may be plainly rendered by the simple
word prison. Every fibre trembled, and our limbs tottered under us,
as we traversed the horrid receptacle. The first words which escaped
the keeper after our entrance were, " whoever is brought into this
house becomes a slave." He might well have added.
Lasciate ogni speranza, voi, che 'ntrate !*
In passing through the dark and filthy court yard, we were
surrounded by a multitude of slaves, bearing about them all the
signs of abandoned sufferers. They were ragged, lank, and haggard,
with the head drooping, eyes sunk and distorted, cheeks imprinted
by the furrows of protracted wretchedness, which seemed to have
withered the soul, and by destroying the finer impulses of their

* Ye heirs of hell,

Here bid at once your litrg'ring hopes farewell. Boyd.

FIRST day's treatment. ■69

nature, left no trace of pity for the sufferings of othei-s : so that we
passed without the slightest manifestation of that sympathy so natu-
rally expected in such a situation. Exhausted by long confinement,
and wrapt up in a sense of their own melancholy fate, our appearance
was viewed with a stupid indifference unaccompanied by any fellow
feeling. During the few intervals, unoccupied in the public works,
they remained shut up, wandering about like pallid spectres in this
house of darkness and of sorrow.

Our ascent up the prison staircase, was not unlike that of u
malefactor, when mounting the scaffold ; but, as some indulgence is
generally granted to condemned criminals, the keeper treated us
during the first day with particular attention and respect ; inviting
us into bis own apartment, and insisting that we should partake of
his dinner, thus making up for the anxiety and fasting of the preced-
ing day. There were at the table, besides myself and fellow passen-
gers, three slaves, who had been many years in captivity, and were
persons of birth and education. Amongst the rest, was Signor Artemate
of Trieste, who possessed a mind adorned by education, and a character
formed by long reflection and adversity ; with the truest ingredients of
friendship. In reciprocal misfortune, the consoling voice was
not long silent. Like Attilius Regulus, we also were in servitude, on
that very shore, which saw the Roman hero perish for his country ;
happily, if like him, we could evince the same intrepidity of soul and
firmness of character.*

* Few captains of antiquity have excited greater admiration araocgst the moderns
than Regulus, and none more deservedly. The concluding part of his address to the senate,
is the best possible eulogium on the memory of this truly great man, while it conveys a
grand lesson to the patriots of every age and country. I give it in the eloquent language
of Chateaubriand. " Je n'ignore point le sort qui m'attend ; mais un crime flétriroit mon
ame ; la douleur ne brisera que mon corps. D'ailleurs il n'est point de maux pour celui
qui les salt soufFrir : s'ils passent les forces de la nature, la mort nous en délivre. Peres
consents, cessez de me plaindre : j'ai dispose de moi, et rien ne me pourra faire changer
de sentiment. Je retourne à Carthage ; je fais mon devoir et je laisse faire aux dieux." —
Itinéraire de Paria à Jenasalem, Tome ii. p. 245. — Ed.

7(> PROSPECT OF LIBERATJON.

The lollowing day was occupied in communicating with the
English consul and other friends in the city, together with the prin-
cipal Jews, who were likely to be most useful in forwarding the work
of liberation. For my own part, I began to view things in a some-
what more favourable light: my excellent friends, the Chevalier
and Madame Rossi, warmly interested themselves with the consul in
my behalf; while that worthy and philanthropic minister did every
thing in his power to extricate me from the horrid situation in which
I was placed. It was whispered at the Baglio, that I had been for-
mally demanded from the ministers of his excellency the Dey ; but
that they had refused, there being only one amongst the number,
who would condescend to liberate me, and that at the moderate con-
dition of my paying down three thousand sequins in gold ;A and this
because the government knew I was a great ;7oe« wallowing in riches!
Poetry and riches is indeed a strange association of ideas. Little did
my new masters know the value of poets in Europe. It was further
said, that they were not particularly anxious to release me upon any
terms, it being his excellency's intention to avail himself of my won-
deiful talents in affairs of great importance. What on earth could
he have done with me % Poet laureat ; virtuoso of the bed-chamber,
or musician extraordinary, to his highness the Pasha ! I doubt whether
either of these brilliant appointments would have turned my brain ;
for to me, chains are not the more acceptable for being made of gold.

While busied in these various speculations, the Guardian Basha,
or principal keeper, took me by the ann, ana commenced a grave
sermon on the flattering prospects that seemed to await me. " Surely,"
said he, " your friends were bom before you, and fortune has now
evidently taken you under her peculiar protection, arriving a slave in
Algiers, and the next day running the risk of obtaining a post, to which
others do not arrive in a hundred years." While on this favourite
strain I every moment expected to be compared to the fortunate Jo-

* About £1600.

PROPOSAL FROM THE DEV. 71

seph, whose advancement was also preceded by golden dreams.
" But you," pursued the Basha, " should leap for joy." " And have
I not," said I, " every reason to be afflicted I AVhat consolation can
there be for him who is in chains!" " Weakness of human nature!"
replied the Basha. "Slavery is the natural state of man. All," —
these were exactly his words, — " all depends on the law of the strong-
est ; on circumstances and necessity . We are all the slaves of cus-
tom, of the passions, of disease, and of death. But those who rise
to power are no longer slaves : and thus you may have slaves at
your nod ; and by obeying one, command a thousand. You have a
good head, can speak well, and are a great acquisition to us. When
once interpreter and secretary to the Dey, you tvill swim in gold,
become the lamp of knowledge, and possess gardens of voluptuous-
ness : you ivill be a great personage, and all will bow before
you."^ " Too much honor I too much honor !" I answered : " I do
not merit it. But l)y what .accident has the Dey condescended to cast
his eyes on meV " Why," said he, "it was always customary for
the Pacha to have a slave for his secretary : one of these infidel dogs
having betrayed his trust, the Dey had his head struck off. Another
came, but this rogue used to carry news to the European consuls, and
he was condemned to die under the bastinado. A Jew was next
taken into the service of his highness, but as he only thought of mak-
ing money, his treasures were seized and himself burnt. A Moor and
Arab were successively tried without effect, and after being removed
had their heads taken off, to avoid telling tales. The Dey having
once more determined to try a Christian, you are the happy man upon
whom he has fixed his choice." " But tell me, for curiosity's sake,"
said I, " how long did the two Christians, Jew, Moor, and Arab
remain in office!" "Some continued three, six, and ten months;
but none reached a year's servitude ; all had a short life and a merry

* Would to Heaven that the sad reality of the Guardian Basha's dcetriae did tot
extend beyond Algiers. — Ed.

72 PROPOSAL FROM THE DEV.

one/' was the answer. "The honors," said I then, " would be very
acceptable, but involved, I apprehended, too much responsibility.
A thousand thanks, therefore, for the interest you so kindly take in
my advancement; but I fear pachas are too easily disgusted with
their followers, and begin to play the tyrant rather early. Besides, I
am not like the cardinal who exclaimed,

Vorrei sentermi dire
Segretario di stato, e poi morire."

"Name me but a secretary of state, and then let me die!" " M.
le Marquis^" said a young gentleman to the minister d'Argenson,
who was appointed to a regiment in the field : " I wish for life rather
than immortality !"

After the above conversations, I naturally began to reflect on
the good fortune which these folks were desirous of heaping on
me ; and, if left to my own ideas in the choice of a place, I deter-
mined it should be like that of the disappointed candidate for a
public employment in London ; who, after many fruitless applica-
tions, one day called on his expected patron, and told him he had at
length procured one; when, being very civilly congratulated on his
success, the patron ventured to ask what his new post might be. He
satisfied the demand, by rejoining that it was a place in the Shrews-
bury coach, which should, that very night, convey him from a town^
where he was heartily tired of listening to the flattering and unmean-
ing promises of patrons.*

* The Abbe Tanzini, a Florentine, and a man of considerable genius, but whose man-
ners were rather uncouth, finding himself once in the anti-chamber of a prince, where two
other persons magnificently dressed were also in waiting, by the way of amusing themselves
at the Abbe's expence, and rather overstepping the mark by taking a man in his simple
garb for a fool : one of the gentlemen asked with a simper who he was? " Tell me who
you are first," said the priest. " Why," replied he, "I am a gentleman who has the
honor of serving his excellency the prince as secretary." " And I," observed his compa-
nion, " am the Signor N , who has also the honor of being the prince's agent gene-
ral." " And I," said Tanzini, " am the Abate Tanzini, who has the honor of not serving
under any one !"

DISAPPOINTMENT.

While thus occupied in conversing with tlie Guardian Basha,
during M'hich, passing to and fro, amongst the dark corridors, where
the victims of servitude lay huddled in groupes, stretched along the
bare earth, with nothing but a little covering of straw, the hour of
supper arrived preparatory to that of repose. A short time before the
English vice-consul, who had kindly recommended us to the Grande
Scrivano and Guardian Basha, came to inform me of the steps which
had been taken by his generous principal in my favour, with the Dey ;
and how, even at that late hour, he had taken the ti'ouble of ascend-
ing the stairs of the Pascialick. On the other hand, my friend, the
, Grande Scrivano, determined to destroy the slight rays of hope shed
by the vice-consul's visits, informed me, that I might now consider my
fate as finally decided ; for although there was, in the first instance,
a possibility of the consul's eloquence and credit prevailing with his mas-
ter, yet, the negative once given, my future doom became irrevocable ;
and that, even the exertions made for my liberation, when inisuccess-
ful, could not fail to render the case more hopeless. As may be easily
conceived, I passed a sleepless night, embittered by the most painful
apprehensions. Although the scrivano had given up his bed and room,
it did not facilitate my disposition to repose. In this trying per-
plexity, the maxims of the wise and good, did not altogether abandon
me ; nor could I entirely forget their influence in making us indepen-
dent of adversity. Dionysius the younger, being asked what philosophy
had taught him, replied, " to meet without surprize the vicissitudes
of fortune, and support myself under them without complaining!"
*' When," said Calisthenes, " I find myself in a situation that requires
courage and resolution, I feel that I am at my post. If the gods
had only placed me on the earth, to lead a life of effeminacy and ease, I
should have considered greatness of mind and immortality, an una-
vailing present." It has been truly said by a poet, that though we
cannot command success, we may do more, we may deserve it.

Tyranny never sleeps, and even envies that of the wretched,
whom it has bereft of every other blessing. The first rays of light

L

74 UADtJE OF SLAVKKY.

bad not yet dawned, nor had either men or animals time to recover
the preceding- day's labonr, when the turnkey, witli a hoarse
and stentorian accent, exclaimed, " Vcimos a trabajo cornvtos !"^
" To work I" Such was the flattering expression used to call
the slaves: and in which we too, had the unexpected honor of
being included. I should also add, that it was followed by the
application of a cudgel to the shoulders of those who mani-
fested the smallest disinclination to obey the summons, in double-
quick time. Previous to our quitting the prison, the black Aga made
his appearance, bringing with him several iron rings, to be rivetted
on our left ancles, tliere to remain in perpetuity, as a sign of bondage.
These rings were slight, but they were those of slavery ; and their
liorrible weight can only be known, to those who have worn them I
Having successively applied them to the legs of my companions, the
Aga put one into my hand, saying, that his excellency the Pacha,
as a mark of particular favour, allowed me the distinguished honor of
putting on my own ring ! This is not unlike the fatal privilege granted
to the viziers of the Porte, of strangling themselves with the cord
sent for that purpose by their master. With similar feelings did I put
on the dreadful emblems of servitude ; which ignominious operation
was follow ed by a cold sweat that covered my forehead : my heart
panted with anguish, my eyes no longer saw the surrounding objects,
I attempted to speak, but could not articulate; looking downwards,
my eyes caught the degrading badge, and, witli a deathlike silence
I yielded to my fate.

The number of new victims of ditierent nations mustered on this
occasion, and all captured during the last cruize of the barbarians,
amounted to two hundred. Being ordeied to proceed to the scene of
our labours, a mournfiil silence marked our progress, which was
attended by guards both in front and rear, armed with whips, frequently

* A translation of the last word in this sentence, would, no doubt, be deemed too
delicate for English ears : the reader if, therefore, referred to his Kalian dictionary.— i'rf.

UNEXPECTED LIBERATION. 75

repeating: A trahujo cormitos; can d' infidel a frabnjo ; "To
work ! Dog' of a Christian, to work !" Thus escorted, we arrived at
tlie public ovens, when two rusks of black bread were thrown to each
of us, as if to mere dogs. I observed, that the old captives, who had
arrived on the ground before our party, greedily snatched them up,
and soon dispatched both with a frightful avidity. Arrived at the
great hall of the marine, we found seated there, in all the pride of
tyrannic power, the various members of the executive government,
including the agas of militia, the grand a<lmiral, first raisof the squa-
dron, the cadi, mufti, ulemas, and judges according to the Koran. We
were then ranged along in regular succession, selected, numbered, and
looked at with particular attention ; as practiced at the slave markets,
formerly held in Jamaica.* With our eyes fixed on the assembly, and
beating hearts, a profound silence reigned through the hall, when it
was broken by the minister of marine, first secretary of state, calling
out my name, I was then ordered to advance. On obeying, various
interrogatories were put to me, relative to my occupations in England,
and other relations with that country. Having answered them in the
best way I could, the minister pronounced the talismanic words. Ti
star franco! " You are free." We are told the most agreeable toners
heard by human ears, are those of well earned praise; the mopt
grateful sounds those expressed by a beloved object. No! The
sweetest voice which can possibly vibrate through the heart of man,
is that which restores him to liberty! To form an adequate idea of
what I felt, on this unforeseen, and happy change of circumstances, it
will be necessary for the reader to conceive a victim with the bandage
on his eyes, and fatal axe uplifted, whose ears are suddenly astounded
with accents of grace and mercy!

A case like mine was absolutely unique in the annals of Algiers;
there being no example of a slave's liberation so immediately after
his captivity without ransom : the decrees of those barbarians being

^''- Out, daraoed spot ! Out, I say!
h 2

76 ARRIVAL AT THE BRITISH CONSULATE.

those of inexorable fatality. A soldier was ordered to knock off lay
irons: this done, he, in his turn, desired me to go and thank the
minister ; who, on addressing him, shook me by the hand, adding
many expressions of civility ; and finally, ordered the dragoman to
conduct me to the house of his Britannic majesty's consul. The first
impulse of joy had fairly inundated my heart. When once more at
liberty, I could move my limbs with some facility. But the next
thought was for my unhappy companions, who, on the strength of
my liberation, were induced to flatter themselves with the fond hope
of being treated in a like manner. Next to my own safety, nothing
on earth could at that awful moment have afforded me such heartfelt
satisfaction. Departing slowly with my new guide, I stopped
repeatedly, and looking back with wistful eyes, vainly anticipated
the pleasure of seeing them follow; but the order was already given
to conduct them all to labour ; their respective occupations were even
pointed out. I saw them hanging down their heads, with eyes
suflused in tears ; they advanced a few steps towards me, pressed my
hand, sobbed adieu, and disappeared!

Arrived at the British consulate, the dragoman left me : soon
after which, my generous friend, the Chevalier Rossi appeared; when,
as it will be readily conceived, our meeting was a most agreeable
surprize to both parties. The recent circumstances would not admit
of comment ; but on such occasions, the language of the heart is more
eloquent than that of the tongue. In a short time we were joined by
the consul, whose countenance beamed all that serenity which arises
from the performance of a good action; proving an old adage,
that virtue is the best promoter of the circulating fluid, and con-
sequent tranquillity of mind. The name of this worthy minister,
and the highly important services which he rendered me, will be eter-
nally cherished in my heart. To the recollection of this great act of
beneficence, will be united those of benevolence and kindness, which
form the characteristic of true gentility, considerably enhancing all
its favors. It is impossible for me, sufliciently to applaud the eminent

TRIBUTE OP GRATITUDE. 77

qualities of Mr. M*" Donnei. Courteous in his address and manners,
with an elevated turn of thought and noble sentiments, uniting to the
gentlest demeanour, the dignified pride and decision of character
which belongs alone to merit; to exquisite sensibility^, a mind
full of acumen to regulate its movements, and employ it for the
most useful purposes ; to extensive knowledge, great application,
without which, there is no possibility of attaining to perfection, or
permanency : to generous inclinations, courage, and activity to vir-
tue, without which, it may also be said, that the latter is of no use
to its possessor ; Mr. M" Donnei is one of those men who do lionor to
humanity. Pre-eminently calculated to represent the British govern-
ment, and defend the rights of the greatest naval jiower of the uni-
verse, few consuls have exercised a larger share of influence amongst
these barbarians : so true it is, that power is not alone sufficient, if
not seconded by talents and character.*

Having refreshed myself at the consulate, it was next recom-
mended that I should proceed to the great prize magazine, for the
recovery of my effects ; which were ordered to be restored by the
government. On arriving there, however, I found that all was in-
vaded— money, books, merchandize and clothes ! Nothing escaped
the rapacious hands of the Turks and Moors ; nor was there one
single article forthcoming. This was indeed a severe loss : to have in
a moment lost the fruits of so much labour, industry, and numerous
privations. Thus, to have beheld the edifice, formed by years of
personal exertion, crumbled into nothing; and that pardonable vanity,
which every one has to revisit his native coimtry with independence,

* Having devoted a considerable degree of attention to the study of those qualities
which best become the representative of His Britannic Majesty in foreign countries, it has
been highly gratifying to me to find them all united in the character of Mr. M« Donnei, who
will have no reason to regret his benevolent attentions to the author: while it is most sin-
cerely hoped that a panegyric like the above, will not fail to stimulate the conduct of all
those who may be at this time, or any future period of our history, placed iu a situation
calling forth the exertions of humanity and active benevolence. — Ed.

7» LOSS OF PROPERTY.

and the means of future ease ; together with the additional pleasure
of being able to contribute to the wants of his relatives and friends,
iVustrated. Behold, in one fatal moment, all these gratifying illusions
at an end, and the fond dream of happiness broken ! The effect of
finding myself thus fallen from the little height of fortune, on which
I stood before the day of captivity, was a source of heart-breaking
affliction, which made me doubt, whether I was yet at liberty. Phi-
losophers may preach up contempt of riches, and the virtues of
moderation ; citing the maxims of Cicero and Seneca, the verses of
Horace, and example of Aristides, of Curius and Cincinnatus ; all
well intended, no doubt, but not at all satisfactory. Seneca and
the orator of Aq)ino, who were so pre-eminent in eulogizing mode-
ration and poverty, possessed splendid palaces, and delightful villas :
and the poet of Venosa, who praised abstemiousness, did not
disdain to drink Falernian wine, and court the favour of Mecaenas
and Augustus. Some riches, and, as the French say, un peu
de superjìu, chose très nécessaire, are required by the most rigid
philosophy, not only to cheer the heart, but render it happy ; that is
to say, by affording it an opportunity of conferring favors; and, like
tlie Man of Ross, dispensing happiness around us.*

Even talents themselves, shine more from being decorated Avith
the splendor of gold ; the belles lettres cut a more distinguished
figure, if accompanied by good letters of exchange. How is it pos-
sible to develope the extent of talent, and force of genius, if both
are oppressed with a constant recurrence to a man's humbled con-
dition I To the necessity of providing for his daily subsistence !

Ah ! who can tell how hard it is to climb

The steep where Fame's proud temple shines afar ;

* Pope's inimitable pen was never better employed than in immortalizing the Man of
Ross, and rendering his real virtues worthy of future imitation. Such are the men who
ought to live in the recollection of posterity, and be eternally commemorated in poetic
song, in opposition to heroes, and devastators, who, like the lightning fulminate mankind,
and like that phenomenon, leave only traces of darkness behind them.

LOS?! OF MANUSCRIPTS. 79

A h 1 who can tell how many a soul sublime

Has felt the influence of malignant star,

And wag'd with Fortune an eternal war ?

Check'd by the scoff of Pride, by Envy's frown,

And Poverty's unconquerable bar.

In life's low vale remote has pin'd alone.

Then dropt into the grave, unpitied and unknown 1

Some means of independence are in fact necessary, without
which, neither the heart nor mind of man, can be expected to retain
that force and energy, so necessary to the pursuit of literature, and
the glory which it occasionally produces. Want, in a better state of
society, should never stimulate a man to obtain the prize ol immor-
tality by his pen. Letters and science are a divine art, and not a
base calling : it is therefore a pity, that the man, who is so infinitely
superior to his fellows in mental acquirement, should be obliged to
descend to humiliations, and humble himself before those who live by
his labours, and still make him feel his dependence. To enjoy that
noble ardour, so necessary in the republic of letters, and the society
of superior minds, which cannot be done withovit fortune, philoso-
phers have justly exalted the advantages of mediocrity, which some
have dignified with the title of golden mediocrity ; the age of peace
and innocence has also been sung, but the present has, with a good
deal of justice, been called the golden age !

In addition to the entire spoliation of my personal effects, the
greatest loss of all, that of my manuscripts, remains to be noticed :
these were the very last things on earth, which I thought would have
excited the cupidity of the barbarians. Perhaps they reasoned like
that ferocious Saracen Omar, who destroyed the Alexandrian library;
saying, " conformable to the Koran, they are useless; if contrary,
they ought to be destroyed." However this might be, I felt the loss
most severely, and in it seemed as if detached from my dearest con-
nections.

Books, says Petrarch, are our best friends; those, whom

80 REFLECTIONS.

we have been most careful in selecting, and that most readily con-
form to our characters and tastes: they accompany us in the study,
and follow us to the country, eidivening its solitude, and tilling up
the vacant hours of life ; they speak and interrogate us, but if we
leave them, they do not complain of our absence. They amuse in the
hours of calmness and serenitj . While they inspire us with hope and
courage in adversity, they bring peace under the heaviest blows of
fortune. Opening the page of history, they procure us the experience
of ages, and extend, as it were, the existence; they enable us to
converse with the absent, and live with the men of other days ; and,
by their means, we are enabled to penetrate into futurity.

Amongst the lost manuscripts, those which I regretted most,
related to observations made in my various wanderings while
absent from Tuscany: tlie fruits of long meditation, care, and
industry ; conveying a tolerably accurate idea of many import-
ant historical events, which passed under my own eye. By the
loss of these, my fondest illusions seemed to vanish, and I thought
myself thenceforward condemned to sloth, stupidity, and oblivion ;
together with all the inutility of an obscure life, and vacant soul. I
anxiously sighed for repose, but wished it to be accompanied with
genial studies, sacred to the cultivation of those flowers which the
garden of literature produces, and the ineffable pleasure of courting
the Muses. Fiiends will tell me, the lieart and head remains; but
the most laborious works, and best productions of the mind, are not
the result of a moment : they require time and unabating perseve-
rance. A fair and languid flower is soon produced ; but fruits that
last, must be matured by time : that which grows may remain, but
the tree once blasted, yields no more. These bewailings will no
doubt be attributed to the force of self-love operating on a vain
mind ; but those, who have experienced the pleasures communicated
by a new idea, a bright thought, the offspring of a sudden impulse,
who, in the moment of enthusiasm, and that tumult of imagination
and sentiment, which is at once the emblem and source of creation ;

COMPARISONS*. 81

when they feel a strength and vivacity, Avhieh raises them above their
fellows, elevating them as it were to a heavenly nature. These gentle
spirits, who in the tranquillity of their closets, in the secret confer-
ences ^\ ith the nymphs of Helicon, or solitary abode of philosophy,
find more heartfelt pleasures, than all the tumult of the world, and
delights of frivolous society, can aflfbrd to vulgar souls : who, with a
pen in their hand, have considered themselves beings of another
sphere, peopled by the most delightful dreams of imagination, and
thus ranged within the rays of their own eternal celebrity : those
will conceive the extent of my sorrow, and know how to sympathize
in my unavailing complaints.

The anxious care with which an author endeavours to preserve
the child of his fancy, or fruits of research, is not anew feeling in the
literary world. A great writer of antiquity, being threatened with some
eminent danger, placed his manuscripts between his teeth, determined
either to save them, or perish in the attempt. Camoens too, when
wrecked on the coast of India, held his immortal poem up in one
hand, while he gained the shore by swimming with the other. It is well
known how delighted Dante was, when by a most unexpected piece
of good fortune his divine poems were saved from the destructive
horrors of civil war, and the other disasters which attended his exile ;
embracing the bearer of them, and fondly exclaiming that he had
recovered immortality for him. It is also related of Lebrun, the
lyric poet of France, that his female servant prevailed on liim to
mairy her ; in consequence of threatening to consign his manuscripts
to the flames, if he did not innnediately accede to her strange propo-
sition. I would have willingly made any sacrifice for the recovery of
my own loss ; but it was in vain that I searched every part : it was
evident that all my papers had been thrown into the sea, and my
name was thus lost in the oblivious wave.

Since the above period, I have felt no pleasure in writing; I
seem to be oppressed with the leaden weight, which our great poet

M

82 CONSOLATORY REFLEt'J IONS.

has placed over the backs of hypocrites, and that also Aveighs on
mediocrity. " I was," said Wieland, " in that happy situation,
which gives to days the rapidity of moments, and to moments the
impatience of centuries." I had cultivated a few flowers, and hoped
to bring forth some fruit ; but the harvest is over : discouraged and
unhappy, I cannot prevail on myself to return to the Muses. " To
be joyful and contented," said Altieri; " it is necessary that the mind
should be nourished by the fire of tender passion, or have some high
and noble object in view." Or, as Lord Rochester observes : " Per-
form something worthy of being written, or write something that may
be worth reading."

In the midst of all my losses, reflection did not altogether aban-
don me ; and with that, I did not want for consolation. I recollected
that there had been instances of people placing their chief merit in a
just contempt for earthly riches ; and amongst the rest, a philosopher,
who the more freely to indulge his ideas of independence, gave up
all his substance, adopting for his motto : omnia bona meciim porto.
The result of losing the fruits of so many years' observation and
research, is naturally that of being no longer able to publish ; and in
order to diminish the regret that might arise from this circumstance, I
have the very great satisfaction of avoiding those innumerable evils and
vexations to which the profession of an author almost invariably
subjects him. And it is no inconsiderable blessing to escape these,
from the verbal criticisms of the illiterate, to the still more unmer-
ciful, and sometimes not very liberal castigation of reviewers, the
caballing of pedants, and occasional injustice of the public ; to dancing
attendance on the booksellers, and bearing up against the learning
of printers. Calling upon a great man, three months after / di€l
myself the honor of presenting him with a copy of my last pul>lica-
tion, I shall not have the mortification of finding it exactly on the
precise spot of his study table, whereon it was deposited when pre-
sented, with the great additional comfort of there not being one single

consolAtion?. 83

ìeaf cut ! And the bookseller may also be saved the unpleasantness of
having nine tenths of a splendid edition bequeathed to his shelves in
perpetuity.*

Availing myself of the facilities afforded to the book collector in
England, I had formed a very tolerable library, intended to be the
great companion of my future life. On contemplating the loss of
this treasure, I was obliged to imitate the philosophy of Fenelon,
who, when informed of the total destruction of all his books by fire,
tranquilly replied, " I should have derived no profit from them,
if they had not taught me patiently to bear with their loss !"

But all is lost in this world : friends, lovers, reputation, peace
of mind, felicity, our patience, opportunities, fortune, and even our
brains. To the ladies we lose our sighs and presents ; our efforts,
hopes, and supplications in the anti-chambers of the great ; our money
at rouge et noir, or five shilling loo ; we also lose our time in talk-
ing to fools, and flattering coxcombs. The ambitious are berefit of

* Of all those grievances " that make the very angels weep," those noticed by the
author are unquestionably the most distressing. In that long catalogue of minor sufferings
to which humanity is exposed, whether we consider the many hardships to which literary
men are subject, or that superior degree of sensibility which renders these hardships infinitely
more acute than they could possibly be on more ordinary minds ; there is no class of men
entitled to a greater share of sympathy. Mr. Pananti's oL.-;ervations will, no doubt, come
home to the feelings of thousands, amongst whom many, possessing the fire of genius
accompanied with its latent virtues, have had more particularly to deplore that peculiar
destiny, which has, in an enlightened age, condemned them either to struggle with adver-
i-'ity, or pine in oblivion ; while their talents were of a nature to excite admiration, and if
called forth by patronage, eminently calculated to improve the moral as well as intellectual
condition of their fellow creatures. Completely dissatisfied with all the sophistry which
has been put forth to account for the proverbial poverty and wretchedness of the lights
and beacons of the world, I cannot divest myself of an idea, that after having imputed all
the errors we can reasonably do, to their habitual indolence and unwise contempt of
■worldly concerns, there is a manifest want of sympathy towards them ; and that, from
branches of the community which could not study their own particular interest, or that of
the multitude more advantageously, than in the occasional seeking out, and final protec-
tion of men of letters. — £d.

M i

84 ITALIAN PRINTERS.

tranquillity, and the dissolute of health; heroes of life, and lawyers
of causes ; piiiices lose provinces, and generals battles ; the rich
lose their wealth, the poor their shoes, and preachers the thread of
their discourse !

If I had cause to complain of having fallen into the hands of the
pirates, by which I merely lost my little property, with how much
more reason had my companions to repine ; who, in addition to that,
were also condemned to slavery'? "I complained," observes Sadi,
" of having no shoes to wear; but, in passing by the entrance of the
great mosque at Damascus, I saw a man who had lost both his legs ;
upon which I ceased to complain, and no longer murmured against
Providence." " All is lost, save our honor;" said a great monarch on
losing the battle of Pavia ; and with him I can repeat, that I lost
all but my liberty.*

* 111 a country like this, where there is not quite so amiable a disposition to enter into
those little feelings of self-love which form a striking feature of the Italian character, some
will perhaps be induced to consider theauthor as having dwelt rather too long on the lossof his
manuscripts; while those to whom he more immediately addresses himself, kindred minds,
will readily enter into his sentiments, and make every allowance for a weakness, if it be one,
which under similar circumstances they would most probably yield to themselves. From the
manner in which Mr. P. has treated the subject of these memoirs, the public will be ena-
bled to form a faint idea of how far he may be justified in so deeply lamenting his losses.
In addition to a number of poetic effusions lost on the above occasion, there were also
several very valuable notes on some of the most important events in the revolution, of
which the author was an eye-witness. Besides his observations on the miseries of authorship,
the original memoirs contain a note on the ccmforts of publishing one's own book ! The
agreeable ceremony of waiting on the gentlemen of the trade, to olier the manuscript :
the whole appositely wound up by some remarks on the incorrigible errors of the press ;
and a dissertation on printers' devils ; all which is so well understood in England, that it
might well be considered as an insult to the good sense of the literati, were I to have
suffered these remarks to appear in my translation. By the way of justifying- Mr. P.'s com-
plaints, it is proper to inform the reader, that the whole of his first edition, consisting of a
thousand copies of these Memoirs, were, in his estimation at least, rendered unfit to meet
the public eye, owing to its almost innumerable inaccuracies, occasioned by mere errors of
the press. No very flattering compliment, it must be confessed, to the state of printing iu
Italy ; where an uathor's work is frequently suspended, until the paper is made I — Ed.

COMPANIONS IN MISFORTUNK. S5

It is now time to return to the fate of my unfortunate compa-
nions, who remaiued in chains. With respect to the crew, I had fie-
quently the mortification of meeting- tliem in the streets, loaded witli
irons, and sinking under the weight of their forlorn and degraded
condition. The females, who had not yet been sold to the Moors,
were received into the house of the Danish consul's wife, who treated
them with all the delicate attention and generous regard, which their
beauty and misfortunes were so well calculated to inspire. The two
brothers, Messrs. Terreni, were exempted from labour, but remained
in slavery. They inhabited a miserably small room, which was washed
by the sea, where, with their eyes directed along the receding beach,
or stretched on the gloomy region of tempests, they had an ample
opportunity of bewailing their melancholy fate. They took their
meals with a Livornese slave named Brunet, who possessed conside-
rable talents, by which he was enabled to make some money while
at Algiers, and enjoyed many privileges. This aiForded him an
opportiuiity of serving others ; and the way in which he adminis-
tered to the comforts of my two friends, proved a heart full of kind-
ness and generosity. Having suffered himself, he knew how to feel
for the woes of others. Men may be compared to certain plants,
which yield a balsam for the cure of diseases when they are them-
selves woimded.

The Terrenis deserved those attentions, as well on account of their
afflictions as their personal merits. " There is something perfect and
finished in your character," said Bossuet to the Prince of Conde : " it
is the lustre which misfortime gives to virtue." The ancients too, had a
species of religious veneration for those trees which had been struck
with lightning.

I often went to visit my friends, yet, what could I do but sym-
pathize in their griefs i Or what ofierings make beyond a tear ? But
even that was some consolation for them.

I pianti pietosi
Dei teneri amici

St» SIGiXs» OF CHEl^RPL'LNKsjS.

Pei cuori infelici
Che il duolo colpi.
Son come del cielo
Le molli rugiade
Sul languido stelo
Del fior cheappassi.
" Tlì£ tears of pili/ and friendship, shed for those overtaken with
grief, are like the dewy drops of heaven, falling on the stem whose
flower is drooping."

By degrees, however, I was happy to perceive the captives had
regained a little more calmness and serenity. When the mind is lace-
rated by sorrow, ^visdom comes smiling, to sow her seeds on the heart
moistened with tears; as the plough more easily turns up the ground,
softened by rain, or the dews of heaven, before the husbandman
throws in the hopes of the ensuing harvest. Wisdom is a rose, that
flourishes best amongst thorns, and merit appears more luminous, when
surrounded by the gloom of adversity : as the lamp acquires addi-
tional splendor from darkness.

Algiers is not one of those cities oil Von pent se passer de
bonhenr : on the contrary, there is nothing to render it agreeable to an
European resident. The poet Regnard was once a slave here, but
accompanied by his mistress Elvira : and what sorrows will not be
forgotten when a beloved object divides them ; or what weight of
chains do not became light, when mingled with the tender ties of
love ì Regnard knew how to acquire the affection and esteem of
his master Sydi Thaleb, by his vivacity and talents; not those of com-
posing verses and comedies, but which are by many, even in Europe,
still more valued, that of making pies and patties.

The Chevalier Rossi's amiable family, and myself, lived near
the English consul's country house, and were daily in the habit of
receiving some new marks of his hospitable attentions. I frequently
descended into the town, but never discerned any object to excite interest
or curiosity. No library, not even a coffee-room with a news-paper, or
thesociety of a single individual from whom a new idea could be gained.

WANT OP SOCIETY. 87

How indeed can it be possible for people, so full of barbarous preju-
dices, to pursue any study, or encourage improvements, with their
slavery and indolence I Letters expire when variety and activity does
not give rise to an incessant renewal of ideas. It is true, I occa-
sionally conversed with the secretary of state, Rais Hamida, and one
of the Cadis ; with the latter of whom, I might be said to have
contracted a kind of friendship. I was also introduced to the Dey ; but
his gloomy aspect was both territying and repulsive. " Looks of affabi-
lity should ornament the front of kings ;" but that of his highness, was
never adorned with a sentiment ofjoy or pity. An Arabic poet compares
the prince to a sea, "which should be avoided while ruffled by
storms; but when tranquil, you may fish in it for pearls."

I always felt a secret horror in walking through the narrow,
dark, and filthy streets of this shocking city. The heart is oppressed,
and the very soul shut up, as it were, in its tortuous windings :
respiration itself was attended with difficulty and pain. When I
reflected on the reign of barbarism and servitude which surrounded
me; a contrast between meanness and servility; of trembling and
degradation ; of haughty despotism and cruel bondage ; and consi-
dered the circumstance of be ng encompassed on every side, with
suspicion, jealousy, and hatred ; that I was every instant liable
to insult, chains, and eveij' assassination : all contributed to oppress
the mind, and embitter the feelings, absolutely destroying the power
of thought. I knew that there was still a possibility of the tyrant's
changing his mind with respect to my liberty, particularly as he
expressed feelings of regret, at having given me up .so easily ; it
was thus that Sylla repented having left Caesar alive, if great things
may be compared to small. So I was neither .secure nor tranquil:
like the philosopher, who, living under the reign of a certain tyrant,
every morning, when he awoke, put his hand up to feel whether liis
head was on his shoulders I

88 SLAVERY IN ALGIERS.

CHAPTER IV.

Christian Slavery in Algiers. — Its physical and moral Effects. — Observations
on the Ransom and Liberation effected by the Expedition under Lord Ex-
mouth. — Rem,arks on the various Accounts of Barbaky that have been
hitherto published, -Object and Motives of the Author in laying his Account
before the Public, cf-c.

Those who have ever been at Algiers, and witnessed the fate to
which Chiistians, falhng into the hands of the iDarbarians, are
condemned, cannot form any idea of tliat greatest calamity which
fortune has in store for hnmanity ; or into what an abyss of sorrow and
wretchedness, their fellow creatures, thus situated, have been plunged.
Even myself, who saw and piovefl it to a certain degree, in my own
person, am at a loss for language equal to a description of what
Christians feel and suffer, when precipitated into this dreadful situation.
jVo sooner is any one declared a slave, than he is instantly stripped
of his clothes, and covered with a species of sack-cloth ; he is also
generally left without shoes or stockings, and often obliged to work
bare-headed, in the scorching rays of an African sun. Many suffer
their beard to grow, as a sign of mourning and desolation ; while
tlieir general state of filth is not to be conceived. Some of these
wretched beings are destined to make ropes and sails for the squa-
dron: these are constantly superintended by keepers, who, carry
whips ; and frequently extort money from their victims, as the
price of somewhat less rigour in the execution of their duty ; others
belong to the Dey's household ; and many are employed by the rich
Moors, who may have bought them at market, in the lowest drud-
gery of domestic employment. Some, like the beasts of burthen, are

MISERABLE STATE.

employed in carrying stones and wood for any public buildings that
may be going on : these are usually in chains, and justly considered
as the worst among their oppressed brethren. What a perpetuity of
terrors, series of anguish, and monotonous days, must not theirs be !
without a bed to lie on, raiment to cover them, or food to support
nature! Two black cakes like those already alluded to, and
thrown down, as if intended for dogs, is their principal daily susten-
ance ; and, had it not been for the charity of a rich Moor, who left a
legacy for that purpose, Friday, the only day they are exempted from
work, would have seen them without any allowance whatever. Shut
up at night in the prison, like so many malefactors, they are obliged
to sleep in the open corridor, exposed to all the inclemency of the
seasons. In the country they are frequently forced to lay in the open
air ; or, like the Troglodite of old, shelter themselves in caverns.
Awoke at day-light, they are sent to work with the most abusive
threats, and thus employed, become shortly exhausted under the
weight and severity of their keepers' whips.

Those destined to sink wells and clear sewers, are for whole
weeks obliged to be up to their middle in water, respiring a mephitic
atmosphere : others employed in quarries are threatened with con-
stant destruction, which often comes to their relief Some attached
to the harness in which beasts of the field are also yoked, are obliged
to draw nearly all the load, and never fail to receive more blows than
their more favoured companion the ass or mule. Some are crushed under
the falling of buildings, while others perish in the pits into which
they are sent to be got rid of It is usual for one and two hundred
slaves to drop off in the year, for want of food, medical attend-
ance, and other necessaries; and woe to those who remain if they
attempt to heave a sigh or complain in the hearing of their inex-
orable master. The slightest offence or indiscretion, is punished
with two hundred blows on the soles of the feet, or over the
back; and resistance to this shocking treatment is often punished
with death.

When, in marching, a poor slave is exhausted by sickness or

N

90 AFFECTING ANECDOTES.

fatigue, and the cruelty of his usage, he is inhumanly aliandoned on
the hio-h road, to be insulted by the natives, or trod under foot by
the passen2,ers. They frequently return from the mountains with the
blood trickling from their limbs, which are, together with their whole
body, covered with scars and bruises. One evening towards dark, I
was called to by a hoarse voice : on drawing nearer; I beheld an un-
happy being stretched on the ground, foaming at the mouth, and
with the blood bursting from his nose and eyes. I had scarcely stopt,
struck with hoiTor and apprehension, when, in a faint voice, the word
" Christian ! Christian !" was repeated. " For Heaven's sake have pity
on my sufferings, and terminate an existence which I can no longer
support!" " Who are you J" was my reply. " I am a slave," said
the poor creature, " and we are all badly treated ! An oldak of the
militia who was passing this way, and happening to be near me at
the time, he exclaimed in an angry tone, ' dog of a Christian, how
dare you stop the road when one of the faithful passes !' This was
followed by a blow and a kick, which threw me down a height of
several feet, and has left me in this condition."

On another occasion the situation of a still more unfortunate
slave, was equally calculated to excite my indignation and sympathy.
He was sorrowfully seated under an old wall : at his feet there lay an
immense load, under which he seemed to have simk; his visage was
pallid and meagre ; with looks full of wildness, and eyes fixed on the
ground, all expressing strong signs of premature age, brought on by
grief and sufferings; raising his head, he seemed to become more
agitated, and striking his breast and forehead several times, deep sigh.s
seemed to relieve his mind from some internal paroxysm of despair.
" What can be the matter, my friend ?" said I, addressing myself to
this unfortunate wretch. " Why all these signs of misery and distress!"
" Poor Christians," he replied; " there is no help for them in this
world! and their groans are not heard in Heaven. I was born in
Naples, but what country have I t Nobody assists me ; I am forgot-
ten by all. I was noble, rich, and illustrious in the place of my

DIFFICULTIES OF RANSOM. yi

birth ; see how wretchedness and slavery can change tiie iace of man.
It is now eleven years since my sufferinij;s began ; during which time,
I have in vain solicited the assistance of relatives and fellow crea-
tures, but all to no purpose ; there being no longer any one on whom
I can place hope or reliance. To whom therefore can I turn my eyes
for support ^ V\^hat have I done to deserve so much oppression and
suffering?" After he had given vent to his feelings, I did my best to
recommend patience, resignation, and hope. I also touched on
the promises of eternal reward to those who siitfer here below with
becoming fortitude. All this was answered with a forced smile,
accompanied by a look, which spoke volumes, and proved the little
use of attempting to console or reconcile man to his ill-fated suf-
ferings. While mournfully withdrawing myself tiom a scene which
could only add to the poignancy of my own lacerated feelings,
without mitigating those of a fellow creature, already oppressed with
more than he could bear ; the last time of turning to the spot, saw
him rolling on the ground, and with heavy sighs, lamenting his
melancholy fate.

Although a price is set on each captive, that the whole may
encourage a hope of freedom ; yet, from the peculiar mode in which
their liberation must be effected, this hope is almost unavailing. If
after having obtained leave to exercise their trade, they acquire any
property, they are not allowed to pay it for their ransom. Ofi'ers of
this kind have always been rejected, on the ground of the Dey's l)eing
legal heir to all the property of his slaves: and frequently, in order to
get possession of it a little sooner, this honorable revenue is anticipated
by the owner's being dispatched.

Captivity is thus surrounded with aggravated cruelties, which
seem to have no end. Their forlorn condition has been very properly
compared to those spirits condemned to inhabit the house of dark-
ness and despair : who, according to a popular writer, are con-
stantly enquiring what hour of the day it is, and as often receive the
terrific reply of eternity ! It is not enough that they should groan

n2

92 CONSOLATIONS OF RELIGION.

under excessive laìjoar and multiplied bloAVs ; but derision, abuse,
and contempt must be added : and this species of suffering is, if pos-
sible, moie acutely felt than the former. " Faithless Ciiristian dog,"
is the ordinary mode of addressing a slave ; and this degrading epi-
thet is invariably accompanied with the most insulting gesture, occa-
sionally by personal violence. Whenever a captive is taken ill in
Algiers, motives of self-interest call upon the Moorish proprietor for
a little indulgence ; but were it not for the benign charity of Spain,
which has established a small finid to support an hospital for the
reception of Christian slaves, the latter when overcome with disease,
would be left to perish in the streets, and suffering humanity remain
completely unassisted. By means of the above benevolent insti-
tution, they may at least hope to die in peace ; and in the act of aban-
doning this vale of tears, be sustained by the hopes of future bliss.
But the ineffable consolations of religion cannot be very liberali}^
bestowed on these poor people, there being but one priest to soothe
the bed of sickness, administer to the wishes of the dying man, and
inspire the fugitive spirit with the bright hope of another and a better
world !

The present clergyman, like another Vincenzio de Paoli, with
a most philanthropic spirit and truly Christian zeal devotes all his
time to the spiritual relief and comfort of the sick and infirm, to
whom he is an angel of peace and consolation. But how can a single
spiritual adviser, however great his exertions and well disposed,
attend to three thousand Christians ; of whom hundreds are scattered
about the country, and have been for years, without appearing at a
place of public worship ? and in the absence of that necessary duty been
doomed to hear curses and reprobation heaped on the great Prophet of
Nazareth t It is only ten years ago, that even the tomb afforded no shelter
to the remains of a Christian in this country : the rites of sepulture
were for a long time absolutely refused to the bodies of Christian cap-
tives ; and they were often left exposed in the open air to be devoured
by reptiles and birds of prey. It was with considerable difficulty

MORAL TENDENCY OF SLAVERY. 93

that Charles the Fourth of Spain, obtained at an enormous price, a
small space near the sea, which has since been the Christian burying
ground ; but it is not distinguished by any mark to denote the solemn
purpose, nor a fence to defend the sacred precincts fiom barbarous
intrusion. Thus do Christians live, and die in Algiers!!!*

Having endeavoured to communicate a limited notion of its
physical effects, I ought also to make a few remarks on the moral
tendency of .slavery. All agree that loss of liberty is the greatest
misfortune which can possibly befal a human being. Without any of
those consolations which generally accompany other griefs, it does not
give rise to any of those impulses which are calculated to support the
mind in adversity. All our other sorrows awaken feelings of tenderness
and sympathy in generous minds, and inspire respect, If not relieved,
they are, at least, blest with commiseration. The prisoners who
have been shut up in the Bastille, the fortresses of Spandau, Olmutz,
Magdeburg, Stetin, and the Tower of Oblivion in Persia, displeased
the great, and may perhaps have deserved incarceration ; but they were
regarded with some degree of imjjortance, and as men of no conmion
characters. When the exiles of Siberia passed, they were followed
by a sympathetic look of pity not unmixed witii admiration ; people
sighing, exclaimed: " There goes an exile!" As to slavery, you

* Melancholy as the author has depicted slavery in Algiers, I can safely assure the
reader, from ocular proofs, that the above is very far from being an exaggerated picture.
On the contrary , it only represents a small part of those sufferings to which captivity is
subjected in Barbary. This topic, so deeply interesting to humanity, may receive some
farther illustration by a reference to my Letters from Tunis and Tripoly, at both of which
places I had frequent and ample opportunities of witnessing scenes infinitely more heart-
rending than any brought forward by Mr. Pananti. Thanks be to God! that in the desire
of improvement so eminently conspicuous in the history of the present day, the important
question as to the absolute necessity of annihilating the Barbary system, has been univer-
sally canvassed, and as universally decided upon. Though tardy, there is now but one
sentiment throughout Europe upon this point. And the irresistible voice of public opinion
having once gone abroad, it only remains for the great powers to coalesce in the execution
of a design which posterity will regard in a far different way to what it must the partition
of Poland, and other similar political arrangements. — £d.

94 MORAL TENDENCY OP SLAVERY.

cannot divest it of a certain opprobriimi, and servile baseness ; which
freezes the heart, disgusts the sight, and repels sympathy. There is
an unconscious horror created in the mind, towards tliis most unna-
tural state of man; and we proscribe the slave, as the Hindoos do the
member of a cast, who may have violated the precepts of his religion.
Even the captive himself, when long accustomed to be thus regarded,
begins seriously to think his nature has experienced a change ;
and in that state of mind, considers himself as degraded as he is
unhappy. Chains, while they are thought disgraceful by the free,
depreciate the wearer in his own esteem, until his soul is deprived of
all the salutary influence of liberty. It is thus, that the cultivated
European, when left for any time a prey to his wretched fate, is at
last persuaded to look upon himself as even inferior to the savages of
Africa ; and the man who was born free, to direct his piercing eye and
noble front towards Heaven, sinks to the degrading alternative of
Ibrgetting the original intentions of nature. The soul has been often
purified in the crucible of adversity ; but in a state of slavery, there
is something so abject and forlorn, that it destroys the courage, and
quenches all the fire of generous sentiments, depriving its victim at
once of mind and dignity. Another of its evils, and by far the worst,
virtue, which teaches us to vanquish every grief, or render them
sources of utility, is generally weakened, and often altogether extin-
guished in a mind habituated to slavery. Sorrow vitiates the heart
where it breaks the spirit. The virtues spring from great and generous
souls, while vice is the offspring of meanness. Religion too, that
column of Heaven, to which we cling when all around us totters,
ceases to afford consolation to the heart that is ulcerated : those who
are taught to regard themselves as entirely abandoned on earth, no
longer look to Heaven for support. It is true, while suftering toge-
ther, they mingle their tears ; but friendship, that

Mysterious cement of the soul !
Sweet' uer of life, and solace of society!

is mute, and lost to those who find no pity out of their own immediate
circle. Instead of uniting for mutual support, hatred and envy more

ANECDOTE. 95

frequently intervene to embitter tlieir distress. The fortunate man is
gay and animated ; liis lieart smiles in unison with all around him ;
his soul is serene as a cloudless day : but he who has suftered
from ' man's inhumanity to man,' or an iron destiny, feels that the
streams of pity are dried up within him ; while the flame which ani-
mated his heart in better days, is extinguished Avitli his happiness.

A Persian tiaveller, who m as sitting in the anti-chamber of an
European sovereign, observed a person magnificently dressed ; but
who, notwithstanding the splendor and gold which covered him,
appeared immersed in gloomy and sorrowful thoughts : he walked iFp
and down the room, without being noticed or spoken to by any one.
Struck by his singular appearance, the oriental enquired, who that
great, but unhappy personage might be? He to whom the question
was put, said, that he was a great lord of the comt, and governor of
a distant province, who had formerly enjoyed the first place in the
monarch's favour, but that the prince had now withdrawn his protec-
tion, so that he only experienced humiliation and disgusts in the palace.
Upon this, the Persian arose and disdainfully cried : why do theif
treat him thus? Winj is his life so embittered? If theij have no regard
for him, let them at least have a little pity for those tvho are so un-
fortunate as to be placed under his government !

To conclude this melancholy subject, of all human sufferers, I
have been taught to believe, the Christian slaves of Barbary are the
greatest : being in that dreadful state, when, according to the saga-
cious author of Corinna, deep and long continued sorrow has
absorbed every pleasurable emotion, leaving behind a sentiment of
sadness and despair ; a situation in which life seems embittered by an
envenomed dart. They fall oppressed aud cast down by the weight of
their sufferings : under the rod which smites them, they cannot any
longer raise their heads. The gods, says a fine verse of Homer,
snatch away all the spirit of those whom they have destined to fall
into the wretched condition of slavery. Servitude is indeed a cruel
necessity, which breaks and destroys whatever it encompasses.

96 AFFECTING INCIDENT.

From a subject like the foregoing, and that long train of melan-
choly ideas which its consideration is so justly calculated to excite,
how highly gratifying is it, to be enabled by a fortunate and happy
combination of circumstances, to follow it up by congratulating
humanity at large, on the recent liberation of so many unfortunate
sufferers ; who had for many years been, as it were, forgotten by their
European brethren.* Those warriors, who escaped the ravages of
disease or the sword, during the long hostility which desolated the
civilized world, found no difficulty in regaining their native homes, from
the remotest corners of the earth to which their services may have led them ;
but the miserable children of Europe, who had fallen into the hands

*= To relieve any little curiosity which may have been excited by that part of the
foregoing narrative which relates to my companions in misfortune, it is in this place proper
to observe, that they were, after two long years of bondage, amongst the number of those
liberated by the British arms. The Messieurs Terreni on leaving Algiers, proceeded to
.Sicily for the arrangement of their mercantile concerns ; the ci-devant Hero, together with
the poor sailors, his crew, were no doubt sent on to their native island. But how am I to
relate the hapless story of that beautiful young female, whose constancy and virtue drew
forth so much admiration during our passage ? Poor girl ! Scarcely had her emancipa-
tion been effected, and she began fondly to imagine that happiness which awaited her
return, than she was taken violently ill, and, melancholy to add, only survived a few days!
Although consigned to an unknown grave in a barbarous land, her unhappy tale will live
in the remembrance of all those who possess a tear for the sufferings of others : and the
admirable lines of Pope may with such singular felicity be applied to the fate of this inte-
resting female, that 1 trust no apology is necessary for their quotation.

What can atone, O ever injured shade !

Thy fate unpitied, and thy rites unpaid ?

No friend's complaint, no kind domestic tear,

Pleas'd thy pale ghost, or grac"d thy mournful bier.

By foreign hands thy dying eyes were clos'd.

By foreign hands thy decent limbs composed.

By foreign hands thy humble grave adorn'd,

By strangers honor'd, and by strangers mourn'd!

Yet shall thy grave with rising flow'rs be dress'd.

And the green turf lie lightly on thy breast:

There shall the morn her earliest tears bestow ;

There the first roses of the year shall blow ;

While angels with their silver wings o'ershade

The ground now sacred by thy relics made I

LIBERATION HY LORD EXMOUTH. 97

of the Barbaiy pirates, were detained in the cruellest bondage, were
not destined to share that blessing-.

At the grand period of political restoration, an important nego-
tiation was set on foot, for the restitution of inanimate statues and
pictures, which ended in the complete accomplishment of its object ;
but not a word was said about restoring the white Christian slaves of
Barbary ! It was thought to be important to the peace and interests
of Europe, to fill up the vacant niches in the museums of Italy, and
cover the bare walls in the gilded palaces of kings ; but it was not
thought necessary to fill up the fire-side of those cottages, the inha-
bitants of which were dragging on a deplorable existence on the
inhospitable shores of Africa !

Previous to the successful attack of Lord Exmouth, several hun-
dred slaves were redeemed by paying their ransom, and the honor of
this negociation also belonged to the British admiral ; but can any
thing be half so humiliating, as to have seen the great queen of the
ocean, who had been so mainly instrumental in liberating Europe
itself from bondage, entering into all the forms of solemn treaties
with the impious regencies of Barbary, and thus acknowledging the
previous right to make slaves of Christian subjects I Would it not
have been more consonant to the high character and dignity of the
British nation, had she peremptorily insisted on these marauders
adhering more closely to the public law of Europe, after the peace of
the continent had been obtained at so high a price, and by such unex-
ampled sacrifices? — A peace which was violated by those unprincipled
monsters, when the most powerful monarchs of Europe had entered
into sacred alliances for its preservation !

Upon the important result of the British admiral's late expedition
against the most guilty city, there can be but one sentiment of unde-
cided applause throughout Europe ; in as much as, that a real tem-
porary benefit accrues from it, in the liberation of so many unfortu-
nate sufferers. There cannot be a shadow of doubt, but that offended
humanity called for a much more exemplary chastisement ; but we

o

98 DR. SHAW'S TRAVELS.

are not to reject a part, because the whole has not been obtained :
and, in addition to the real benefits derived from this spirited exer-
tion of the British ministry, it proves the very important fact of the
extreme facility with which a well combined naval and military opera-
tion might be conducted on this interesting part of the African continent.
But the more ample discussion of this momentous subject, is neces-
sarily deferred, until I have endeavoured to make my readers more
intimately acquainted with the history, government, manners, cus-
toms, and character of a people, who are surely destined by Pro-
vidence, in its all-wise scheme of human improvement, one day or
other to be once more brought within the pale of civilization !

Although a great many works have been published, relative to
the coast of Barbary, yet it is universally acknowledged that those
who have written on the svxbject, left a variety of points intimately
connected with its general attributes, towards which the curiosity of
the public is still anxiously directed : particularly at a time when
the conduct of its respective chiefs have scarcely left one dissenting
voice throughout Europe; as to the moral and political necessity of
effectually desti'oying their future means of plundering civilized
nations, and condemning their subjects to slavery. In alluding,
however, to our stock of information, with regard to these states
generally, a ^ery important exception may be made, as far as relates
more immediately to Algiers, upon which nothing either very elabo-
rate or correct has appeared since the publication of Doctor Shaw's
work, although nearly a century has elapsed. And however inter-
esting on the score of Numidian antiquities it may be, it is by no
means calculated to satisfy the more important and extended researches
of the present day. To those, in fact, who have considered the sub-
ject, nothing can be more singular than the almost total indiflerence
which has until very lately prevailed, as to the internal situation
of a country, that is, on a very great variety of accounts, much
more important to the people of Europe, than nearly all the other
unexplored regions of that vast continent.

DIPFIPULTIES OF ENQUIRY. 99

There is, it must be confessed, no difficulty in accounting for onr
extreme want of information as to tlie interior of Tunis, Tripoly, and
Algiers. For such lias been the jealous ferocity of their respective
governments, ever since their first lawless establisliment, that the
enterprizing European adventurers, who visited Africa, seemed to
prefer throwing themselves on the mercy of the wild savages of
Ethiopia, rather than venture amongst wretches who make a
merit of plunder and assassination. Gratifying as a more minute
description of the above named states than has hitherto appeared,
must undoubtedly prove to the public at large, I fear there is not
much probability of that desiralile object being accomplished, while
the present order of things continue. In the mean time, there is no
reason why we should not- avail ourselves of the materials already
within onr reach, for the purpose of illustrating a subject, with which
it is hoped the future destiny of Europe will be linked in a very dif-
ferent way to what it has been during the last three hundred years.*

Notwithstanding those difficulties which might have been sup-
posed to impede the progress of my enquiries, yet the circumstance of
knowing how little had been published on the subject of Algiers,
determined me to collect all the information I possibly could while on
the spot ; and a perusal of most of those works which have appeared
on Barbary since my return to Ital^ , confirmed me in an opinion that
the details thus collected, would not be altogether unacceptable to
the public : particularly as I had recourse to all those individuals,

* A young friend of mine, who is strongly imbued with the rage for exploring, and
by a most unusual coincidence possesses an ample private fortime to promote his very
praiseworthy views, left England for Tunis about eighteen months ago, with the full
intention of going through all the interior of that regency if permitted. As he was
extremely well supplied with books and instruments, I sincerely hope no trifling obstacle
will induce him to relinquish so useful an undertaking ; and confess I look forward with
considerable anxiety to the rpsult of his labours : knowing that from the little I have
myself witnessed in that quarter, no part of the world contains a richer mine for the
of an intelligent traveller. — Ed.

o 2

100 PROPOSED NARRATIVE.

wliether oonimercial or otherwise, who were likely to afford the most
authentic accounts of whatever I wished to be informed upon.

In all attempts to describe the manners and customs of Maho-
metans, it is of course totally impossible to avoid going over a great
deal of ground already trodden by other travellers. Nor will it, I pre-
sume, be expected : for although nil novi sub sole, may be justly
applied to most subjects, I certainly claim some little exception in the
present instance. Anxious that the following account of manners
and customs in Algiers may contribute to the reader's amusement, my
utmost ambition will be gratified if it should also be found to convey
a little useful instruction. However defective my labours may have
been, I shall not imitate the Abbé de Choisi, who, after having pub-
lished a history of the church, was heard to declare : " Now that my
work is printed, I shall begin to study the ecclesiastical history V
" How did you acquire all your wisdom'^'' was asked of some of the
ancient philosophers. " By interrogating those 1 met upon all that I
was in-norant <>/"" was the sage's reply.

HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF BARBARY. H)l

CHAPTER V.

Babbary. — Derivation of its Name. — Soil, and Climate. — Short View of its
general History , and o/ Algiers in particular. — Geographical Description.
—Monuments and Remains of Antiquity. — The Capital described.

That pai-t of northern Africa called Barbary, has, like most other
countries, furaished the learned with a controversy about the origin
of its name : some deriving it from the Arabic word Ber, which sig-
nifies a desert ; but this cannot surely apply to countries so rich and
fertile. Others have fancied they could trace the appellation to a
nearly similar sound with the above, meaning a man who speaks
through his teeth. This is equally fallacious, not answering, in any
way, to the present dialect of the Moors. In search of another deri-
vative, the Romans are said to have styled it Barbary, from the
ferocious character of its inhabitants ; but, in addition to there being
no historical record of this kind, a little reflection will show the im-
probability of such a significant epithet applying to a country which
was civilized almost as early as their own ; and containing, in after
times, by far the finest colonies they possessed. Its extreme afli-
nity to the modern inhabitants of this extensive region, proves very
strongly, that the word Barbary is of much more recent invention
than the time of the Romans. The most generally received opinion
of the present day, traces it to Bereber, the country of shepherds ;
while some, however, deduce it from Berberi, people inhabiting near
a strait. Be this as it may, no country on earth is more highly
favoured by nature : and, next to Egypt, it was, while under the
Roman yoke, justly regarded as the richest, and most productive of

102 CLIMATE AND SITUATION.

its provinces, and the granary of the state. Some writers honored this
coast with the flattering title of soul of tlie republic, and jewel of
the empire. It was also considered the very first refinement in the
luxury of those days, to possess a villa or estate on this smiling
region.*

The climate is soft and salubrious : and the seasons follow
each other in the gentlest succession ; in autumn the heats are exces-
sive, but generally tempered by northerly winds. There are very few
diseases peculiar to Barbary ; it has not been visited by the plague
for a period of twenty-five years, though raging with so much vio-
lence in the neighbouring island of Malta, and farther on at Gibral-
ter. It is far from being indigenous to this country, and no
greater proof could be adduced of its extreme salu1)vity, than that
of having escaped epidemic disorders for so long a time, without the
many and often ineifectual precautions adopted for their prevention
in more civilized countries. What, thereiore, might not be expected
in Barbary, if only a little care was taken, to avoid the introduction
of disease i

This immense coast, extending from the Atlantic ocean to Alex-
andria in Egypt, more than two thousand miles, and from north to south
nearly five hundredin some parts, comprehends the ancient Mauritania,
Numidia and Lybia ; the country of the Massili, Getuli, and Gara-
mantes. All these states, which attained a flourishing condition under
independent governments, w ere successively conquered by the Roman
arms, and continued to share the various fortunes of the empire until the
reign of Valentinian III. A. D. 428. when Count Boniface, disgustedby

* What a striking and melancholy contrast to the above, is exhibited by the following
extract, representing the state of Africa after the invasion of the Vandals : " Many of the
most flourishing and populous cities with which it was filled, were so entirely ruined, that
uo vestiges remained to point out where they were situated. That fertile territory which
sustained the Roman empire, still lies in a great measure uncultivated ; and that province
which Victor Vitensis in his barbarous Latin called speciosilas lotius terree Jlorenlls, is
now the retreat of banditti."- — Robertson's Charles V. Vol. I. p. 240. — Ed.

CONQUEST nv BELISARIUS.. 103

the intrigues of the court and ingratitude of his master, became a traitor;
and calling in the aid of the Vandals, who had already desolated a
great part of Europe, the arms of those cruel fanatics soon triumphed
over the degenerate descendants of Rome. Contemporary authors
have left us a detailed account of the disasters which marked the
progress of this dreadful invasion. They found a country well cultivated,
the ornament of earth and of nature. There was no part of this fine
region that could escape the rage of its barbarous conquerors : the
vines were pulled up by the roots, trees cut down, and houses destroyed.
In order that the unfortunate inhabitants should have no means of
existing in the country, they obliged the prisoners to declare where
treasures were concealed, and the number of discoveries made in this
way only seemed to increase their avidity for more. Not only were all
the public edifices and temples razed, but whole cities left without a
single inhabitant. It is related, that when any strong places refused
to surrender, the invaders would collect an immense number of pri-
soners under the walls, and having put them all to the sword, left
the bodies above ground to infect the atmosphere, and thus gain, by
this shocking stratagem, what their arms could not effect.*

The Emperor Justinian having strengthened his own government
by wise laws and liberal institutions, wishing to revive the splendor
of the throne by reconquering the finest provinces of the empire, lost
through the imbecility of his predecessors, selected the great Belisa-
rius, who entered Africa at the head of a large army. Finding the
Vandals weakened by internal divisions, and enervated by sloth,
he experienced very little ditficulty in subduing their chief, Gelimer.

Several victories were followed by the triumphant entiy of Beli-
sarius into Carthage; and for a time, at least, this fine country was

* 111 noticing the exterminating effects of the wars which desolated Africa, from the
arrival of the Vandals until the expedition of Belisarius, Procopius, a contemporary histo-
rian observes : " Africa was so entirely dispeopled, that you niight travel several days in
it without meeting one man ; and it is no exaggeration to say, that in the course of the
war which ensued on the arrival of Belisarius, five millions of human souls perished."— AV.

104 THE ANCIENT MAURITANIA.

destined to be governed by its old masters; bnt as Robertson justly
observes, great men can form and matnre an infant people, bvit
they cannot restore the vigour of youth to old and corrupted nations.*
The empire, enfeebled by its prodigality, and torn with internal dis-
cord, was fast hurrying towards its ruin, and being no longer able to
make its authority respected, or prevent foreign encroachments,
Africa, which had suffered a century from the extortions of Greek
prefects, fell under the dominion of the caliphs, whose new religion
enabled them with its usual auxiliary, the sword, to extend their
empire from the banks of the Tigris to the western extremity of this
great continent. An open country, without fortresses or tioops to
defend it, was not likely to oppose any very formidable resistance to
the victorious successors of Mahomet. In the course of time, the
new conquerors who continued to possess Barbary, detached them-

* This profound remark of the Scottish historian, has been enlarged upon by Chateau-
briand, in a passage of his Itineraire. Its ingenious turn- of thought, and depth of reflection,
have seldom been exceeded by this charming writer. As it includes a well merited tribute
of applause to the persecuted Belisarius, whose singularly heroic character is greatly
enhanced by the comparatively dark age in which he lived, and as the truly great cannot
be too frequently held up for example, I hope to be excused for giving the original.
" Bélisaire au reste étoit digne de ces succès. C'étoit un de ces hommesqui paroissent de
loin à loin dans les jours du vice. Pour iuterrompre le droit de prescription contre la
vertu. Malheureusement ces nobles ames qui brillant au milieu de la bassesse, ne produi-
sent aucune revolution. Elles ne sont point liées aux affaires humaines de leur temps ;
étrangères et isolées dans le present, elles ne peuvent avoir aucune influence sur l'avenir.
Le monde roule sur elles, sans les entrainer; mais aussi elles ne peuvent arréter le monde.
Pour qui les ames d'une haute nature soient utiles à la société, il faut qu'elles naissent chez
un peuple qui conserve le gout de l'ordre, de la religion et des moeurs, et dont le genie et
le caractére soient en rapport avec sa position morale et politique. Dans le siécle de Beli-
saire, les èvénemens étoient grands et les hommes petits. C'est pourquoi les annales de ce
siécle, bien que remplies de catastrophes tragiques, nous revoltent et nous fatiguent. Nous
ne cherchons point, dans l'histoire, les revolutions qui maitrisent et écrasent les hommes,
mais les hommes qui commandent aux revolutions, et qui soient plus puissans que la for-
tune. L'universe bouleversé par les Barbares ne nous inspire que de l'horreur et du
mépris ; nous sommes éternellement et justement occupés d'une petite querelle de Sparte
et d'Athénes dans un petit coin de la Greece." — Itin. Voi. IL p. 272. — Ed.

MODERN HISTORY. 105

selves from the Saracens of the East, creating an emir, who was
from that time considered as entirely independent of the caliphs, and
other Mahometan rulers.

The present territory of Algiers was the Mauritania, Tingitana,
or C.^SARiENSisof the Romans. The names of Jugurtha, and Massa-
nissa, are familiar to all the readers of Roman history; and Juba, its last
king, bravely, according to the philosoi)hy of that day, put an end to
his own existence on losing the battle of Thapsus, fought against
Julius Csesar ; whose enemies he joined in the African war, which
ended by the conqueror of Pharsalia declaring Mauritania a Roman
colony. It was afterwards, during the reign of Claudius, divided
into two provinces, the Tingitana, and Casariensis, from the cele-
brated city of Julia Caesaria, noticed by Dr. Shaw, and other
writers.

Referring to that part of its modern history, out of which the
piratical system has sprung, it will be sufficient for our present
purpose to state, that the Saracen chief Eutemi, who styled
himself king of Algiers in the beginning of the sixteenth century,
alarmed at the progress of the Spanish army, during the admi-
nistration of the celebrated Cardinal Ximenes, which had already
become masters of Oran, called in to his assistance two famous
pirates. Home and Hayradin, the terror of whose names, at the above
period, extended from the Dardanelles to the Straits of Gibralter.
The infamy of their depredations, united with talents of no common
cast, gave rise to a belief, that their views had a much greater scope
than mere piracy : this was amply proved in the end. The ambitious
Horuc came to Algiers with live thousand men, where he was received
as a liberator ; but he soon after caused the credulous Eutemi to be
secretly assassinated, and immediately after made himself master of the
city. This was followed by driving the Spaniards out of Barbary,
the conquest of Tremesan and several other states : nor did much time
elapse, before his fleets, more like those of a great monarch than a
petty chief, began to infest the coasts of Italy and Spain. Wearied

p

106 BAUBAROSSA.

Avith a reign which exciiided all repose, some oi' his subjects applied
for succour to the king of Spain, who made a very spirited attempt
to liberate them and European commerce from so great a tyrant ; but
unfortunately, the elements favoured Horuc, and baffled the scheme
for that time.

The Spaniards were, however, more successful on a fatine occa-
sion, when Comares, governor of Oran, having united his forces with
those of the dethroned sherif of Tremesan, completely routed the
army of Barbarossa; who, being overtaken in his flight, met the
punishment due to his crimes. His brother Hayradin succeeded him
with thesameshareof talentami ambition. Thefameof this man's actions
made so great a noise, that Solyman, emperor of the Turks, offered
him the command of his fleet, as the only person who was capable
of opposing the celebrated Andrea Doria. Hayradin, also surnamed
Barbarossa, soon after his accession to power, took possession of
Tunis by stratagem. Driven thence by the victorious arms of Charles
the Fifth,* he fled to Bona, and embarking there for Constantinople,
terminated his piratical career some years after in the Turkish capital.

In an age so favourable to the success of upstart adventurers,
Barbary was not long without falling a prey to the rapacity of a new
chief: this was found in the person of Dragut Rais, who had for
.some time exercised the profitable pursuit of piracy all over the
Mediterranean ; and though, at first, only secretly encouraged by the
Porte, he was, in the end, openly assisted with the co-operation of
Sinan Bashaw, in expelling the knights of Malta from Tripoli, in
1551. The success of this enterprize was soon followed by the com-
plete re-establishment of the Porte's influence as far as Morocco, which
has never acknowledged its sovereignty.

For many years after, the three regencies of Tripoli, Tunis, and
Algiers, were supplied with governors, and a proportion of troops
from Constantinople. In progress of time, however, several flagrant

* For an account of that celebrated expedition, the reader is referred to Robertson's
History of Charles N .—Ed.

NOMINAL DEPENDENCE ON TURKEY. 107

abuses were found to arise fiom this mode of sending chiefs ; and
when, upon any occasion, they became too intolerable at Algiers, the
janizaries sent deputations to Constantinople, for the double purpose
of complaint, and solicitation to have another appointed in their
place. When once the complaints of the soldiery were listened to, the
future chiefs named by the Porte, were little more than ambassadors ;
till, at length, in one of those commotions so frequent at Algiers,
the Ottoman Pasha was quietly put on board a ship, the captain of
which received directions for him to be landed at Constantinople.
Since that time, all the power of election has remained in the hands
of the Janizaries.

The original stipulation with these chiefs, of acknowledging the
Grand Seignor as their sovereign, and paying him a yearly tribute,
it is hardly necessary to add, has long since become a dead letter, ex-
cept when these marauders have found it convenient to obtain the
countenance and support of their nominal master ; and then a well-
timed present has seldom been thrown away upon the disinterested
despot of Turkey.

A late writer, after detailing the principal events which have
led to the nefarious and unlawful establishments of these execrable
governments, concludes by the following very just observation : " thus,
Barbary, after experiencing the most extraordinary revolutions; and
after holding, at different periods, a very conspicuous place in the poli-
tical world, has degenerated into a permanent receptacle for licensed
piracy; for though the Barbary powers have assumed to themselves,
all the consequence of independent sovereignties, and are honored
with the presence of accredited ministers from some of the most dis-
tinguished states in Europe ; yet, from their total disregard of those
laws which other nations have held sacred and inviolable, and from
their unwarrantable system of exacting tribute as the terms of their
forbearance ; collectively, they still are to be considered in no better
light, than as a nation of free-booters, which the jealousy, or rais-

p 2

108 REGENCY OF ALGIERS.

taken policy of more powerful states have hitherto prevented them
from destroy in ij."'^*

The history of the Barbary states, however varied by events, ex-
hibiting an almost unexampled series of invasions, conquests, and
atrocities, does not, as many have very properly observed, possess
either the interest or importance excited by that of more civilized
nations ; where noble sentiments are seen combined with feelings of
honorable ambition. The history of this country furnishes instances
of ardent passions, criminal designs, and dreadful crimes ; but we
look in vain for those enlarged views, heroic actions, and glorious
results, which can alone render the study of history either useful or
agreeable.

The regency of Algiers includes above six hundred miles of sea
coast, between the river Melooia, which sepaiates it from Morocco^
and the Zaine, its eastern boundary ; while its extreme breadth, from
the capital to the country of Dates, does not exceed one hundred and
eighty .t It is bounded on the west by the kingdom of Fez, the chain
of the Atlas and Bikidelgerid on the south, Tunis on the east, and
the Mediterranean sea on the north.

The Dey's absolute domination extends four days journey from
the capital. Beyond that, until you reach the Biludelgerid, is inhabited
by wandering tribes, who merely pay tribute when the army takes
its annual tour through the country.

* Historical Memoirs of Barbary, 1816.
t Dr. .Shaw, whose book derives a great portion of its value from the circum-
stance of no other traveller's having ever minutely described the same ground, or per-
haps gone over it, only allows four hundred and sixty miles length to the territory of
Algiers; and in this he has been followed by several other writers. Yet by the reader's
referring to the map, he will immediately perceive the extent of this error, there
being between the jVIelooia and Zaine, no less than eleven degrees of longitude, making
in all six hundred and forty-nine miles. I confess, it would be absurd for any person,
in our present ignorance of this part of Africa, and total want of an accurate survey
of the coast, to bring forward geographical descriptions, which there are no certain
means of substantiating. — Ed.

RIVERS OF ALGIERS. 109

The regency is divided into four provinces, Mascara, Algiers,
Titterie, and Constantina. Labez is a mountainous district which
pays tribute ; and Biscara is another poor tributary country
in tlie kingdom of Zeb. Between Algiers and Bugia to the south,
are the mount tins of Couco, inhabited by the Azagui, a ferocious
people whom the Deys have never reduced into complete subjection.
Towai'ds Fez is tlie little desert of Angad, much frequented by beasts of
prey and ostriches. Previous to reaching the lesser Atlas there is a large
tractof country called Tell, from thence commences thecountry of Dates.

The most considerable river in this part of Africa is the Melooia,
the ancient Malva, a part of which is navigable for small ve.ssels.
Besides this there are .several minor streams west of the capital, of
which the Shellif and Hamiman are the most conspicuous ; while its
eastern side is profusely watered by the Yisser, Boberack, Zowah, Sei-
bouse, and Zaine. A place, called the Seventy Sources, rising in the
Atlas towards the Desert of Angad, is spoken of as one of the greatest
curiosities to be found on the whole territory of Algiers. The country
abounds in springs, and besides the range of the great Atlas which
runs through the Algerine states from east to west, there are several other
mountaiiis, such as Gibbel Auress, Mons Aurasia of the ancients, the
mountains of Trara, forming its western confines towards Tremecen,
and Mas-Affran, the Jugura, Gibbel Deera, &c.

The principal cities are Algiers, containing about one hundred
and twenty thousand souls ; Constantina, with a population of one
hundred thousand; Tremisan, once the capital of a great kingdom,
but now reduced to iusigniticance ; Bona, which has an excellent
bay and strong castle ; Oran, a large and populous town with a tole-
rably good roadstead, and within a few miles east of which there is
a fine bay capable of receiving the largest fleets. Tenez, at one
time the capital of a rich and beautiful kingdom ; Boujeiah,
which is very strong, and possesses a much larger port than Algiers,
though not quite so secure; Mersalquivir, a place of some conse-
quence; and Shersliell, where there is also good anchorage ; Arzew.

110 RELICS OF ANTIQUITY.

celebrated for its extensive salt pits, the finest in the world ; El-cal-
lah, renowned for its great market and manufactures of shawls and
carpets ; Bleeda, a populous town in the interior ; and also Gigeri
on the sea coast: the territory of which is extremely mountainous, and
the inhabitants considered the most savage and ferocious race in Bar-
bary. All those christians who happen to be wrecked on this coast,
are invariably made slaves of. There are various other large towns
and populous districts in this fine country, many of which have scarcely
been visited by any European traveller. It is hoped, however, that the
time is not far distant, when we shall have something more than gar-
bled information and uncertain conjectures to gratify our curiosity about
so interesting a quarter of the world. For the present, it is of more im-
portance to enable the reader to form a tolerably correct idea of its
manners and customs.

Travelling in the interior is attended with many difficulties,
owing to there being no bridges; and as to roads, they would clash
with the policy of the government, by facilitating the progress of an
enemy, and opening a trading intercourse between the people ; which,
strange paradox ! it is the interest of the Dey to suppress.

Notwithstanding the amazing number of fine cities containing
all that was splendid or beautiful in Roman art, which each of the
African colonies, and particularly Mauritania, possessed, the exter-
minating fury of its various invaders have left comparatively a very
small part of its monuments standing, to gratify the curiosity of the
modems. The few, however, which remain, amply serve to confirm
those ideas we are taught to entertain of their former magnificence, by
contemporary historians. The total impossibility of exploring this
country while in the hands of its present inhabitants, renders it probable
thatweshallyetseemany years passaway, before any adequate notion can
be formed of the extent of those treasures which it no doubt contains.
Until the happy period of opening the mine arrives, it is the province
of travellers to point out where the hidden treasures are concealed.

Of medals an infinite variety are continually found in the

REMAINS OF A MOORISH CITY. Ill

Algerine provinces : those of Punic and Carthaginian origin, are
distinguished by great beauty of design and uncommon spirit in the
figures. Who has not admired the celebrated head of Ceres, vulgarly
supposed to be that of Dido, also peculiar to the coins of Syracuse ?
The horse on its reverse is in general equally spirited with the head.
Those medals bearing a lion, with a Punic inscription underneath,
which has hitherto baffled the most learned antiquaries, is with
reason supposed to be anterior to the former, but in point of correct
drawing and exact imitation of nature, nothing can exceed their
execution. Great quantities of cameos, bronzes, and imperial coins are
continually found, and if not destroyed by the superstitious zeal of
the Arabs, are brought into Algiers, and sold to the different consuls.
How truly gratifying it would be to the whole European public, were
it in the power of any tourist to explore this part of Africa, and
ascertain what there is remaining of Lambese,^ Thubann,Cartera, and
Rusicadu, of which Pliny gives so high an idea, also of Sana-Muni-
vipium, so celebrated in the age of Augvistus. The ancient Tusca is
now called Zaine, after the river on whose banks it is built. Tipasu
is at present known by the name of Tlassul, and both are mere

* Ur. Shaw thinks he discovered the remains of this great city some leagues eastward
of Constantina, in the Tezzoute or Erba of the Moors. Of this part of Algiers he gives
the following interesting description : " The mountains of Auress, to the southward of
Constantina, are a knot of eminences running into one another, with several little plains
and vallies between them. Both the higher and the lower parts are generally extremely fer-
tile, and are esteemed the garden of the kingdom : they are about a hundred and thirty
miles in circuit, and all over them are spread a number of ruins ; the most remarkable of
which are those of L'Erba, the Lambese of the ancients. These ruins are nearly three
feag^z^e-s in circumference ; and amongst others, consist of magnificent remains of several
of the city gates : these, according to a tradition of the Arabs, were four in number, and
the city could send forty thousand armed men out of each. There are still also (o be seen
the seats and upper part of an amphitheatre ; the frontispiece of a beautiful temple of the
Ionic order dedicated to Esculapius ; a small but elegant mausoleum erected in the form
of a dome, supported by Corinthian columns ; and a large oblong chamber, with a great
gate on each side, intended, perhaps, for a triumphal arch. These, and several other edi-
fices of the like nature, sufficiently shew the importance of this city in former times." — Ed.

112 REMAINS OF JULIA C^SARIA.

villages. There are some remains of Siga, and of Pontns Divini,
mentioned by Strabo. At Dugga are seen vast ruins, amongst the
rest a temple of marble, supposed to have been dedicated to the
apotheosis of Trajan. The small city of Andalouse , founded by
the Moors who were driven out of Spain, is still in existence;
shewing the fondness which even these people had for keeping
np the remembrance of their lost country. At Shershell is sup-
posed to be seen the remains of Julia Cissaria, the ruins con-
sist of large cisterns, mosaic pavements, columns, &c. Arzew is
the Arsenaria of antiquity. But the most interesting spot in this
country, is Cirta, now Constantina, and once the capital of Massa-
nissa, one of the most beautiful situations in all Africa, and full of
the finest remains.* At Medraschem is seen a stupendous fabric, sup-
posed to be the tomb of Syphax and other Numidian kings. In this
ruin the Arabs fancy that great treasures are buried ; but being guarded
by the black spirits, they cannot get possession of them. There are
also very extensive ruins on the mountains of Conco Lahez, but these
are supposed to be of Arabic origin. The whole country, in fact,
exhibits innumerable traces of what it was in better times ; and con-
tiasted with its present degraded situation only serves to heighten our
regret, at the lamentable change in its destiny.

Algiers, which many liave confounded with Ctesaria, is now gene-
rally supposed to be the Jomninm of antiquity, the former having had
a fine port, which could not exist at Algiers in those days : as the
most accurate observations prove it to have been an island called
Al Guisars, which the Arabs joined to the main, giving it the addi-

* Poiret, a French traveller, who visited the Algerine territory in 1789, has the fol-
lowing remark on this city : " Nous entrames ensuite dans le province de Gigiri, qui n'offre
rien de remarquable ; il n'en est pas de raeme de Constantina capitale de la province du
meme nom. Cette ville offre partout aux curieux des precieux restes de son ancienne
magnificence. On ne peut se prqmener au milieu de ses colonnes renversées, de ses tem-
ples detruit sans éprouver un sentiment douloureux qui nous porte à pleurer sur le rivage
de temps et les miseres humaines." — Ed.

MODE OF BUILDING. 113

tional appellation of Gezlr bene Mozana, from the family who
founded the city. By the Moors and Turks it is styled Aljelzir Algu-
zie, Algiers, the warlike.

The position of this place is remarkably strong, and it is defended
by several very formidable batteries : that of the Round Castle is bomb
proof; those of Rabat Baker, which defend the port, are built with
great solidity, and even elegantly formed. The castle oiSit Alcolett has
also great command over the water. The Star Battery, and that of
the Emperor, are chiefly usefol against a besieging enemy by land.
A deep ditch surrounds the city walls, the lower parts of which are in
many places composed of marble. The Casserbach, and Castle of
Alcasabar, in the city, are both very fine fortifications, and have
generally large garrisons. There are usually four or five thousand
men to work the guns in case of sudden assault ; but nothing can
exceed their ignorance of artillery and bad management of cannon.
It should be observed, that a land force would have many advantages
over a maritime one in the attack of Algiers, owing to the positions
afforded by the surrounding hills, many of which command the town
and its works.

This city, with its white-washed houses, rising in amphitheatric
order one above another, affords the inhabitants a fine prospect of
the sea, and, as already obsei-ved, is extremely beautiful as you approach
it by water. Tlie charm dissolves, however, most effectually on enter-
ing the town, where there is nothing to excite admiration. The streets
are so excessively narrow, that in some, two persons can scarcely walk
abreast each other. This strange style of building is thought to arise
from its affording a better shade, and more protection in case of earth-
quakes; by one of which Algiers suiFered considerably in 1717. From
the streets being concave and rising on each side, the greatest inconve-
nience arises to men and animals in passing through them ; for when a
Moor passes on horseback, you are obliged to get close up by the
houses to prevent being trampled under foot.* When M. de la Con-

* Paris, ^' la plus belle ville du monde I" is in many places, as far as relates to foot

Q

114 THE PASCIALICK.

damine first saw the fine pavement which ornaments the sides of every
street in London, lie exclaimed, " O happy country I where even those
who go on foot are thought of." There are no shops in Algiers worth
looking at. The rain water is received into cisterns, and there is a large
fountain or resen^oir, whose water is conveyed by an aqueduct, and
thence profusely distributed all over the city in conduits made for the
purpose.

There are nine great mosques, and fifty smaller ones in Algiers;
three public schools, with several bazars and market places. Its
finest public buildings are those of the five Casserias, which serve
as barracks for the soldiery ; there are also five lock up houses for
the slaves, near which is a market for their sale !

The Pascialick, or Dey's palace, has two great courts, which are
surrounded with spacious galleries, supported by two rows of marble
columns : its interior ornaments chiefly consist of mirrors, clocks, and
carpets. There are several taverns in the city kept by Christian
slaves; and these are often frequented even by the Turks and Moors.
There is, however, no convenience for sleeping; so that those who
enter Algiers from the country, are obliged to lodge at the house of
some friend. European merchants visiting this place, hire apart-
ments in the houses of Jews.

The level country round the town on its land side extends about
four leagues, when it becomes mountainous. The immediate vicinity of
Algiers is supposed to contain no less than twenty thousand vineyards
and gardens; while the beauty of its environs is by no means inferior
to thoseof Richmond, Chantilly, or Fiesole;* butitseflect is destroyed

passengers, very little better than the African city. And notwithstanding the very liberal
remarks and imaginary witticisms of its bombastic editors about the smoke of London, I
doubt after all if it is not somewhat less intolerable than a Parisian pave. — Ed.

* A lofty eminence within three miles of Florence, and which should be visited by
all those who are desirous of enjoying one of the most enchanting prospects in Italy. The
town, which does not at present contain much more than a thousand inhabitants, was for-
merly a large capital ; but lost its importance on the foundation of Florence, to which its
inhabitants were transferred. Its Etruscan wall and amphitheatre are still particularly well
worthy of antiquarian research and observation. — Ed.

BARRENNESS OF THE COUNTRY. 115

when we reflect on the people into whose possession so fine a country
has fallen. The landscape is truly delightful, if only seen in a passing
and rapid glance : but when the eye rests on it, the barrenness and
aridity of many spots are disclosed, shewing the contempt of its bar-
barous inhabitants for agriculture and cultivation, the place of which
they supply, by dedicating themselves to war and plunder.

From the foregoing chapter, intended to give some idea of the
history and geographical position of this countiy, the reader's curiosity
is naturally led to a consideration of its various productions.

q2

IIQ PRINCIPAL METALLIC SUBSTANCES.

CHAPTER VI.

Fossils, Minerals, and other natural Productions of Barbary.. — Trees and
Vegetables.— The Lotus and Palm. Tree.—Domsetic Animals.— The Barb,
Camel, and Dromedary. — Wild Animals.— Birds, Reptiles, Scorpions, and
Locusts.

It is a singular fact, in the natural history of Barbary, that its sur-
face exhibits less appearance of violent changes, than most other
parts of the globe. Nor have the encroachments of the sea beea
by any means so conspicuous on this continent, as that of Europe.
The northern shore of Africa is generally about the same height
from the level of the sea, as Spain and Italy.

Hitherto iron and lead are the principal metals which have been
discovered : the fonner, which is the most common, is strongly im-
pregnated with clay, to which it gives a dark yellow tinge, the sandy
particles turning black. Many have asserted, that the great Atlas
abounds in gold ; but as yet, this is mere theory. It being once pro-
posed to the Bey of Tunis, to open mines there, he very philosophi-
cally replied, that gold and silver had caused the ruin of America ;
that, having no use for those metals, where was the necessity of search-
ing for them I Tliis moral lesson concluded, by his highness ob-
serving, that it is much better to leave the precious metals in the
bowels of the earth, where nature had intentionally concealed them I
Thus, unexpectedly corroborating the opinion of Horace,

Aurura irrepertum, et sic melius situm
Cum terra cfelat, spernere fortior.

SPRINGS AND HOT BATHS. 117

Quàm cogere humanos in usus
Omne sacrujn rapiente dextra.*

Various marbles, jasper, and porphyry, are also found here,
though not in great quantities ; vermilion is more abundant, being
found at a place called Zekker.f There is also, in this neighbourhood, a
small, but very transparent crystal called Salenites; and the surround-
ing country abounds in a soapy earth, which is used in the baths to
give whiteness to the skin. Towards the range of the Atlas, the
mountain soil is calcareous ; on the southern side it partakes more of
quartz ; the sand varies, from being white and fine, to dark and fer-
ruginous. Minerals and hot springs are very numerous. Besides those
of Haman near Bona, described by several travellers, the enchanted
baths of wliich Shaw gives so interesting an account, are the greatest
curiosities of the kind any where to be seen : these springs rise a few
leagues eastward of Constantina, in a deep valley ; sending forth a
dense vapour, almost insufferable to the smell. The chief ingredients in
these singular waters, are sulphur and bitumen : they are in a constant
state of ebullition, and rushing out of small circular apertures form a
crater, curiously incrusted with various calcareous deposits, beautiful
stalactites of sulphur, and native vitriol. The water boils so intensely
here, as to raise the quicksilver to seventy-seven degrees of Reaumur.
Not far from the hot springs there are others of an extremely cold
temperature : the ground in their immediate vicinity, is so ardent, as to
render it scarcely po.ssible to walk over it : and murmuring sounds are

* Let her the golden mine despise ;
For deep in earth it better lies.
Than when by hands profane, from nature's store.
To human use compell'd, flames forth the sacred ore. — Carmen III.

FRilNCIS.

t Mr. Murray has furnished a very valuable chapter on the natural history of this con-
tinent, acknowledged to be from the pen of Mr. Jameson, the very enlightened and scien-
tific professor of natural history at Edinburgh. See Chap. III. of Travels and Discoveries
in Africa. — Ed.

118 CORAL.

constantly heard to issue from beneath, so as to give quite a super-
natural effect to the scene. These sources are much frequented by the
Moors, and are said to possess great virtues in all rheumatic aftec-
tions. There are some Roman ruins close to them, supposed to have
been built for the convenience of visitors in former days.

The banks of several rivers are covered with particles of salt and
nitre : the former substance predominates to such a degree in the
Algerine territory, that, besides the various sources of salt water,
and mountains composed of it, there are many shihhas, signifying
fields covered with salt. These, in the winter, are full of water,
and look like lakes, but when dry, they assume all the appearance of
water-meadows, covered with the finest verdure : some have a hard
thick bottom, without any mixture of earth or sand ; and this is formed
by a stratum of crystallized gravel. The salt collected at Arzewis as
clear as rock crj^-stal.

One of the finest and most useful commercial productions of
this coast, is coral ; of which immense cjuantities are procured between
La Cala and Bona. This most singular production comes from its pro^
lific bed in three different forms: it is a group of living polypi when
first drawn up; and is seen charged with clusters of little round ber-
ries, and a viscous humour, which seems to issue from the top of the
branches, where they form white drops, which some naturalists have
thought to be the flower of coral : but they are, in reality, living ani-
mals, who exist in the hollow cells situated along the internal part of
the branches. The second form converts it into the superb tree, which
soon becomes a hard mineral substance. The l)olypi die, but their
death is not a petrifaction, it is a species of ossification. Coral is, pro-
perly speaking, neither a stone, plant, nor mineral, but rather a
metamorphosis of innumerable polypi : it is like an extensive genea-
logical tree, where the great polypus is covered with its numerous
posterity, the son becomes the tomb of the father; and the whole
sharing one common fate, only change their existence, for a state of
more pei manence and solidity : thus furnishing rather an apt emblem of

VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 119

those prudent sons of earth, who plod along the frigid career of life,
only intent upon accumulating the means of future repose.

A happy combination of warmth and humidity, gives a great
degree both of vigour and magnificence, to the vegetable productions
of Barbary. Although the lower class subsist principally on barley,
yet wheat and Indian corn is extremely abundant. There is also a
species of chick-peas, which is roasted in a pan, and thus forms an
important article of consumption amongst the people. The prickly
pear abounds all over this country, and what it wants in picturesque
beauty, is made up by its utility; for while the tree forms an im-
penetrable hedge, the fruit is excessively nutritive and wholesome.
Vines grow to a prodigious height, and passing naturally fiom one
tree to another, form beautiful arbours: their size is equally remark-
able, being sometimes as large at the root, as a tolerably proportioned
olive tree. The latter is also a very favourite production of northern
Africa ; and besides the immense quantities of trees, wild and culti-
vated, the Algerine territory produces a small thorny tree, which
bears a fruit equal in size and flavour to the large olive of Spain.
Their pomegranates are at least three times larger than those of Italy,
and the pumpkins grow to an enormous magnitude. In addition to
all those fruits common to Europe, the oranges and figs of this
country are of the most exquisite flavour; the chesnut tree does not
grow to a very large size in Barbary, but the nut though small is very
sweet. The oaks are in some places, particularly on the sea coast,
of an immense size, and extremely lofty : of these the quercus ballota
of naturalists also abounds, its acorn being very nourishing to several
animals, and not unlike the wild chesnut. This important tree, so well
known in Spain, would also be a great acquisition to Italy, into which
it has not hitherto been introduced. Amongst different species of the
cypress, there is one seen in the vicinity of Algiers, remarkable for its
unusual loftiness, and pyramidical form; the almond and mulberry tree
are also found in great abundance. The indigo fera glauca, yields a
valuable dye; and there is a highly esteemed medicinal plant found

120 THE LOTUS.

in this part of Africa, viili^^arly called cineraria, Aviiich is considered
by the natives as a sovereign remedy in several diseases. Another
herb, the xenna, furnishes the inhabitants with the celebrated juice
with which their nails are tinged. Amongst botanical plants is the
Scilla marittima, the bulbosa radicata, and dwarf palm, which
yields an exceedingly small date ; also the sacchariim celindricum and
agrostis pungens. In the more arid vallies are to be found the
reseda odorata, erica arborea, and superb cactus ; all of which afford
excellent pasture for lambs, while they perfume the air with grateful
odours ; also the laurel rose, which cheers and vivifies the country,
when all other flowers are dried up by autumnal heat. The hills are
covered with thyme and rosemary, which at once purify the atmo-
sphere, and supply in many places the deficiencies of fiiel ; the traveller's
sight is also continually regaletl with extensive tracts thickly planted
with roses of every hue, for the distillation of the famous essence or
otto of roses so well known in Europe. This fine climate has at all
times been highly favorable to the culture of sugar cane; that oi' Soli-
man, being considered the largest and most prolific of any in the
world. Indeed this plant is thought by many to be indigenous to Bar-
bary, from whence, together with Sicily, it was originally supplied,
to the We-st India islands.

But the most celebrated tree in Africa is the lotus, equally
renowned by poets and naturalists. Pliny called it the ornamental
tree of Africa. Its Arabic denomination is Seedra. It is the grand
symbol of eastern mythology, and tree of many virtues ! The Brah-
mins of the Ganges relate that Brahma was born in the hallowed
bosom of the lotus ; and Visnou, emblem of the conservative prin-
ciple, is represented with a lotus branch of the aquatic species ; indi-
cating that every thing has sprung from the ocean.* It has a consi-
derable resemblance to the jujube, but its fruit is smaller, containing
more substance, and of a round form : its colour is that of saffron

* M. Pluche, the author of a most learned and entertaining book L' Histoire du del,
published above seventy years ago at Amsterdam, but very little known in this country,

THE LOTUS. rZl

growing and becoming ripe on the tree lilce myrtle berries. The negroes
call it Tomberong, making a kind of bread out of the farinaceous part
of the fruit, by exposing it in the air for .some days : and, when perfectly
dry, pounding it in a mortar, the cruder particles are then separated
from the meal, and these, when mixed with water, make a cooling and
agreeable beverage. By adding a little flour, and boiling it, this draught
may be converted into a very savoury and substantial hasty pudding.
The lotus is also eaten in its natural state as we do plumbs; and it is
not improbable, but that it used formerly to be distilled into spirit.
Pliny says, that it gave a name to one of the provinces, the inhabi-
tants of which, made the lotus their principal food : hence the famous
Lotophagi, who inhabited the vicinity of the Syrtis Magna, now
on the coast of Tripoly, between Ben gazi and Cape Mesurata. His-
torians add, that strangers were so well received by these people,
that, after having partaken for any time of the lotus, they forget
their country, and were no longer willing to abandon this hospitable
shore. The companions of Ulysses absolutely refused to follow their
master, who conducted them amongst the Lotophagi, and persisted
in remaining with their new friends. The case is, however, sadly
altered in the present day : when, so far from feeling any inclination
to remain in Africa, those who go there, particularly as I did, are
glad enough to get away as soon as they can.

The palm tree, another singular production of this continent,
and frequently met with in Algiers, possesses a much greater share of
bark than solid wood, yet it is extremely tough and difficult to break.
It requires thirty years to bring this tree to maturity ; after which they
continue to bear for sixty, annually yielding from fifteen to twenty
bunches of dates, weighing as many pounds : these grow beneath the

gives an interesting illustration of the uses to which the Lotus was applied by the early
people of Egypt ; and in another part of his work observes : " Le Lotus est une espéce le
nympheaqui vientabondammentau bord du Nil, et qui outre les secours que les Egyptiens
tiroient de son fruit, dont ils faisoient du pain, donne aussi une belle fleur qui g'épanouit le
matin, et se ferme le soir." — Ed.

R

122 PEC'ULlARlTIliS OF THK PALM.

leaves, which areali attached to the tniuk, and ijrow directly out of it
towards the top. When the fruit is taken down, it is enclosed in
skins, by which its flavour is better preserved, and ripening- greatly
facilitated. While on the tree, the dates have a yellow tint, which,
when ripe, changes to a reddish hue : when gathered, tliey ore as sour
as cyder apples, and it is some time before they acquire sweetness.
The greatest number of palms in the Algerine territory, are found on
a range of hills towards the Atlas, called Jibhel Karkaii ; hwt the
finest dates, though not so large as the produce of this quarter, are
those which grow in sandy soils, particularly tlie Biledidgerid.

The various and important uses of this tree have already l>een described
by travellers; and when we consider the quantity of fruit and lackby it
yields, together with its ultimate application of being converted into
rafters for houses, its general utility does not fall very short of the lotus.
The date tree often grows to the height of eighty and ninety feet ; and
nothing can be more curious, in the way of climbing, than to witne^^sthe
facility with which the negroes ascend, without having any place what-
ever on the branchless trunk to set their feet : the ascent is effected by
means of a rope fastened to the body, and then passed round the tree.
In this state the climber supports himself with the left arm, until the
rope is slipped up by the right hand, when, by pulling it tight, he is
enabled successively to change his position till the top is gained. I have
omitted to observe, that the palm also yields a rich syrup like honey,
which is generally served up as a great luxury, in all the Moorish
feasts, given by the higher orders : this syrup, if kept many days,
ferments, aud becomes very good lackby. In some places, the fibrous
bark of the tree is spun into cord ibr rope, and thread to make sails :
while the leaves are transformed into fans, parasols, work-baskets, and
various other ornaments.

In opposition to the general nature of plants, which do not pros-
per in the spot on which similar ones have perished, the palm springs
up with increased vigour on the ashes of its predecessor. This curious
fact is by the Italian traveller Mariti, supposed to have furnished

PALM TREE SYMBOLICAL. 123

eastern mytliologists witli the marvellous regeneration of the phoenix ;
that term meaninc,- palm tree, both in the Hebrew and Phoenician
dialects.

Next to the cocoa nut of India, and ))read fruit of the Friendly
Islands, the palm tree is justly considered as that which renders most
service to humanity : enlivening- the horrid surface of the desert, it
shields the pilgrim from the scorching rays of a perpendicular sun :
and feeds and refreshes the traveller who wanders through the dreary
solitudes. Independently of the nutriiious liquid produced by this
celebrated tree, which may be converted into wine, spirit, or a cool-
ing beverage, its fruit has often sustained caravans, which, without
its friendly aid, might have perished in the pathless waste.

The palm is also the emblem of glory, triumph, and the heroic
virtues. The eloquent author of the Harmonies of Nature, has also
called it the tree of the sun, Varbre par excellence. Like the gnomen
of that great luminary, its leaves mark the days; while years are repre-
sented by the circles in its trunk. It is, of all other trees, the most
graceful : like the Egyptian symbol of immortality tapering towards
the top until its majestic front spreads before the face of Heaven.
Ulysses, wishing to explain the secret charm which he felt on being
near the beautiful queen of Ogygia, compared it to the lively
transport he exjierienced at Delos, on seeing the wonderful palm
suddenly spring u[> near the temple of the gods.

This extraordinary tree also makes a conspicuous figure in the
loves of the plants ; having afforded a fertile source of ingenious
imagery and versification to Dr. Darwin. The sexes are clearly dis-
tinct; the masculine transferring the fruit and its flavour to the
female plant : when the husk containing the seeds and flowers of the
fruit, begin to open, a bunch is taken from the masculine and
scattered over it. The impetuous winds of the north unite the lofty
cedars of Lebanon, and the trembling zephyrs of morn refresh the
fragrant rose of Jerico. But the desolating blasts of Africa destroy all
that comes within their noxious influence. It is therefore necessary,

R 2

124 DOMESTIC ANIMALS.

that art and the fosterina^ care of man, should preside over the oliaste
hitercourse of the prolific palm.

Of domestic animals, there is no scarcity in Barbary : the cows
are smaller than those of Europe, and owing to the want of pasture
land, do not give much milk, which generally ceases with the loss
of their calf. Of goats there is a great variety, and some of the
breeds are unequalled by any others in the world ; their colour seldom
varies from pure white, which accounts for the dress of the Bedouins ;
while, from a contrary reason, that of the Spanish peasantry is com-
posed of dark brown. One of these species is remarkable for a long
tail : the fat is said to be excellent for frying or making pastry.
There is another race, which are as high as a good sized deer, to
which they bear some resemblance, except in the hair, which grows
long like other goats. The tender mercies of the JMahometan
religion, regards it as an impiety to mutilate these animals, while it
is daily practised with perfect indifference on human beings ! The
asses of Barbary are fully equal to those of Egypt, or the Marches of
Ancona: these faithful and persecuted animals supply the place of
landaus and Jiacres to the natives : their sonorous voices discover
the vicinity of the Arabs at night. Their flesh is held in the highest
estimation by the Moors, who are as fond of a young suckling as even
Caius Alnius Mecaenas was in the days of Roman gastronomy. It is
not to be wondered at, that with sucli horses and asses, the Barbary
mule should be unequalled : they are more esteemed than the former,
on account of their sure foot, and carrying a much heavier load.
Their resistance to fatigue, and regular pace, also gives the mule great
superiority in this country ; their long step is acquired by having their
legs extended and kept tied up in that position for some minutes.
Dogs are hated by the Moors : this accounts for the very flattering
appellation bestowed so liberally on Christians. Cats, on the other
hand, are great favourites, and as beautiful as those of Angola.
United to their natural inclination for this animal, grave and drowsy
like themselves, there is a certain religious veneration, created by the

BARBARY HORSES. 125

recollection of the prophet's tenderness for a cat, which he once found
sleeping in the sleeve of his mantle ; which, rather than disturb her,
he cut off with his sabre, and with the cloak thus mutilated, went to
offer up his prayers at the sacred shrine.

The horses of Barbary would be fully equal in beauty and sym-
metry to those of Arabia, if attended to by the Moors with the same
care, and like the Arab of the desert, they made a friend of this noble
animal, and placed their chief pride in his superiority of condition;
but it is impossible to become attached to, or sufficiently careful of
them under a despotism like that of Algiers, where no man is sure
of keeping what he possesses. The horses employed in the Pasha's
service, are suffered to remain for whole days saddled, with their feet
bound, exposed to the heat of the sun, and head hanging down,
which is only raised to cast an ineffectual look on their indolent
masters. They are also generally broke in too soon ; and this, in a
mountainous country, has the effect of bringing them down long
before the usual time : their constant exposure to thirst is another
great cause of suftering to the Moorish horses. With all these incon-
veniences, the Barbary horse is extremely active, laborious, and patient
of fatigue : full of fire and vigour, he often retains his powers to the
age of thirty ; — he is usually nimble, meagre, and long backed, with
uncommonly slight limbs : he is not, however, by any means quick iu
cavalry evolutions. Admirably well calculated by his natural impe-
tuosity for the charge, he is stubborn when attempted to be trained
in the various movements of European horsemen ; the barb's mouth
is so hard, as to require a much stronger bit than that used in Europe;
the bridle is long, having also a whip at the end of it. They are
frequently exercised to gallop, with the reins thrown loosely over the
neck ; and one of the greatest merits of the horseman is to stop them
suddenly when at full speed. During these equestrian sports, it is
common to see the Turkish horseman rush up towards a house, wall,
or tree, and when close to it stop short: this is sometimes practised
towards friendsby the way of a pleasant joke ; into the spirit of which,

126 THE DBSERT HORSE.

these gfallant g-entlemeii never could persuade nie to enter, though
several attempts were made for that purpose. This practice is of course
veryinjurioustothe horses,andI'have seen many of tlie cavaliers measure
their length, and like the heroes of the Iliad, bite the dust, in these
awkward attempts to display their agility. The African horse never
walks or trots, his pace being a constant gallop while in motion : hence
the name of Barb is given to race horses. Many celebrated English
horses, than which there are no finer in the universe, except perhaps,
tho.se of Nubia, have been bred from the barbs. The horses of
Barbary are admirably calculated for perpetuating the breeds but are
fitter to produce horses for the course than general work. The
mares are generally preferred by the Moors. Besides their being
lighter, their not neighing prevents the rider from being so easily
discovered ; and, on this account, are more convenient for a sudden
attack or nocturnal enterprize.

The wild, or desert horse, is lean, ugly, and ill made; yet his
velocity often equals that of a stag : he is taken with great diflSculty,
and for this purpose a snare is generally used. Brought to Morocco
or Algiers, he becomes fat, and of course looks better, but soon dies :
his life is in the freedom of the desert. This is probably the mule of
Tartary, of which some naturalists have given an account. There is
very little water given to horses in the hot seasons ; camel's milk is
frequently supplied, and of this they are remarkably fond, it agreeing
with them extremely well. The nxutilation of this princely animal is
unknown, and inadmissible amongst the Mahometans : they say it
diminishes their strength and courage, and of this they seem quite sure;
they are also of opinion that it makes them ungrateful and vicious:
this may also be the case. A lady complaining of a singer, ex-
claimed: " What an ungrateful man! it was my uncle who made a
musician of him, and he has passed through the town, without ever
calling to ask how he was I"

But of all the animals peculiar to Africa, the camel, which they
emphatically call the ship of the desert, is by far the greatest gift

THE CAMEL. 127

Providence has bestowed on its inhabitants, eitlier for the ordinary
necessities of life, or enabling them to traverse their immense regions
of sand. It is in the desert, that our respect for this animal is
redoubled ; he is so highly venerated by the people, that they wash
themselves with the foam which issues tiom his mouth, and with
much more reason than the Gentoos, who are besmeared with cow-
dung: they style him Hagi Bahn, Father of Pilgrims, referring to the
honor he has of carrying the presents of the Grand Seignor to Mecca.
Mahomet also permitted his entry into Paradise, as a reward for the
services which his species had rendered the prophet.

The camel carries an immense weight, and often receives a whole
family on his back: it gives its milk, flesh, skin, and hair; to feed,
clothe, and afJbrd a covering to the wandering tribes. At night, it
shelters the weary traveller stretched along the sand, watches over
his slumbers, and like the faithful dog, averts him of the enemy's
approach. His instinct enables him to smell the distant water ; he
recognises the spot with wonderful precision : he is the very type of
patience, fortitude, and perseverance : charged with a heavy load,
constantly trav- lling over the sand, exposed to hunger, thirst, and the
hottest rays of the sun, he suffers the fatigue and pain with incom-
parable meekness: he lies down on the burning sand, without betray-
ing the least degree of impatience : while at all able to support his
load, and continue the journey, he strains every nerve to proceed ; he
neither flags nor relaxes, until absolutely worn out, when he falls, to
rise no more: thus rendering his last breath, on the very spot he
ceases to be useful !

The camel is occasionally employed in the plough and other
agricultural pursuits, like oxen or horses in Europe ; but he is more
generally occupied as a beast of burthen. He kneels while the load
is placed on his back, and signifies that enough is put on, either by
a hiss or shake of the head. He never stumbles or falls. There is
no necessity either to beat or direct him : his pace is slow, but he makes

128 PROPERTIES OF THE CAMEL.

long strides, and continues to march fifteen and sixteen hours follow-
ing, going about two miles and a half an hour. He finds some
difficulty in passing over muddy giound, on which, from the peculiar
form of his feet, he is apt to slip. When there are many of these
animals travelling together, the drivers beat drums, and attach small
bells to the knees of the leading camel; and if it becomes necessary
to quicken their pace, the Arabs form a kind of song, which has the
immediate effect of cheering up the whole party, and making them
redouble their pace. Their load generally extends from a thousand
to fifteen hundred weight, but never even .a half pound beyond his
exact burthen. He can abstain from water four or five days, without
relaxing in his progress: satisfied if in that time he is allowed, en
passant, to pluck up any roots or twigs that may lay in his way. He
seems even to like nettles, wormwood, and the most insipid thistles :
collecting in a species of sack, which he has under his neck, the
barley and small loaves which are given to him on the day of depar-
ture, he goes on eating or chewing the cud in his road. The very
hump on his back serves for his nourishment, and often in the days of
hunger and starvation disappears. Arriving at a well or fountain,
nature has wisely provided him with vessels, in which he lays in a
stock of water for several days, besides refreshing himself for the
time being ; and the water thus imbibed has frequently, on the beast'.s
dying, been the cause of preserving the lives of travellers. The natives
of Africa esteem camels' flesh more than that of any other animal: to
me it appeared tough, but the milk is excellent, and makes as good
cheese, as that of Pratalino or Ronta.*

Love alone gives to these animals, and particularly the female,
a feeling of rage and violence : at this season they kick and bite, and
it is necessary to muffle them; a species of bladder hangs from their
mouth, out of which issues a quantity of foam. They often fight,

* Two districts in the Florentine territory famous for cream cheese. — £d.

ADVICE FROM AN ENEMY. 129

and their hostility affords as great amusement to the Turks and
Moors, as the English derive from cock-fighting.* It is curious to
see how they jostle up against each other; and how the vanquislied
party is followed by the hisses of the bye-standers, while applause
crowns the victors, as if Grecian athletae or Roman gladiators had
been exhibiting.

The camel, peculiar to Barbary, and belonging to the species called
demcl, is considered much superior to that of Asia. The dromedary,
of which there are very ^ew kept in Algiers, though merely a variation
of the same race, are much more elegantly formed than the camel,

* Having in a former note taken occasion to express iny opinion of that unmanly
illiberality and rooted antipathy constantly manifested towards England, by a large party
in France ; but more particularly its impotent scribblers, newspaper editors, &c. I have
too much patriotism, not to acquiesce in the justice of many errors and abuses, which are
proper subjects of animadversion amongst our neighbours. And the national character
could not appear more exalted, than in a dignified endeavour to profit by the wholesome
advice of our adversaries. As, according to a celebrated maxim of a Latin poet, we are
justified in deriving instruction, even from an enemy ; it is with a feeling of this kind, I
shall anxiously look forward to the discontinuance of many barbarous customs, which
only wait the fiat of legislative wisdom to be for ever banished from our shores, as they
have already been from the mistaken admiration of a large majority of the people. Much
too, as the sycophantic author of Six Alois à Londres, and that still more pitiful calumniator
M. Pillet has taught me to despise him, I am nevertheless induced most seriously to recom-
mend the former's sneering observations on the Gothic pastime alluded to by Mr. Pananti,
bull-baiting, pugilism, the monopoly of brewers, mode of puifing, lotteries, and their gene-
ral tendency to strike at the very root of public morals, &c. All of these subjecis are
most intimately connected with our best interests, and particularly worthy the maturest
■nonsideration of the legislature. Without denying the impossibility of removing evils that
«re purely the offspring of circumstances, which all the wisdom of government could nei-
ther foresee nor prevent, or indulging in visionary schemes of moral and political perfec-
tion, I humbly presume that in the whole catalogue of human reasoning, there is not a
more legitimate or fairer subject of discussion, than the removal of evils which would at
once add amazingly to the popularity of men in power, and stability of the government,
while its effects on human happiness must be absolutely incalculable. When, therefore,
the principle of expediency loses somewhat of its present influence, let us hope that legis-
lation will assume its proper place in society, and be rather in advance of, than behind,
what the French so emphatically denominate ZVs/)riY du siede. — Ed.

iàO PROPERTIES OF THE CAMEL.

bearing about the same proportion to it, that a greyhound does to the
house dog. They have a ring fixed to the upper lip, and a cord
fastened to this, serves for guide and bridle. The velocity of this
animal, even after every allowance is made for the marvellous stories
of the Arabs, is almost incredible ; and their figurative mode of giving
you an idea of its celerity in travelling over the desert, has often
been noticed. They say, " when you meet a hierie, and say to the
rider salem alik, before he can answer alik salum, he will be nearly
out of sight." Mr. Jackson, an intelligent English traveller, ob-
serves, in speaking of this wonderful animal, " a journey of thirty-
five days caravan travelling will be performed by a Sebayee in five
days : they go from Timbuctoo to Morocco in seven days. One of
these animals once came from Fort St. Joseph, on the Senegal river, to
the house of Messrs. Cabane and Depras, at Mogador, in seven days."
The person employed to conduct the desert camel, as he is called by
the natives, is obliged to be tightly bound up, to keep his head closely
covered, and sit on the animal sideways, in order to prevent the effects
of the atmosphere on his face; and in this posture he is enabled
to traverse the solitary waste of sand, almost with the rapidity of an
arrow.

The manner in which the camel is formed, and which makes
it capable of resisting the difficulties of travelling in Africa, is
no less admirable than its various other qualities. The elevated
position of his head prevents Ihe sutFocating effects of those volumes
of sand, which, though generally in motion, passes along the desert
under the camel's body; he also keeps his eyes half shut, and they are
besides defended with thick eye-lids and long eye-lashes. The soles of
his feet are remarkably broad, and made like little cushions, producing
a very trifling impression on the vaccillating surface ; his fatigue is also
considerably diminished by advancing two common paces of the horse
at a time: so that while all other animals find the greatest difficulty in
going over the sands of the desert, it seems the camel's native element.

Amongst the wild beasts of Barbary, none is more common thaa

QUADRUPEDS. 131

the boar ; but this animal frequently falls a victim to the stronger beasts
of prey, particularly the lion, whose mode of seizing it is blended
with a wonderful degree of instinct : when discovered in its retreat,
the lion immediately turns up a circular mound all round the spot,
leaving a small aperture near which it crouches down in ambuscade.
When the effluvia proceeding from the lion, becomes sufficiently strong
to indicate its being close at hand, the boar crawls towards the opening,
and suddenly rushes out ; when by a single bound, the ferocious enemy
is on its back, and instant destruction follows. Thus it is with the
beasts of the field : the strongest, not satisfied with its natural supe-
riority, must have recourse to cunning, in order to destroy the weak
and feeble ! The wild boar of this country differs from that of Italy,
by having the head larger, and two long tusks inclining upwards
from the jaw, which appear like additional ears. Porcupines are
found in great numbers. Hares are few and of a diminutive size ; and
scarcely any rabbits are to be seen. Game of almost every kind is
abundant. The biikker el vash, whose horns are much shorter than
those of the common ox, the body plump and head more elevated,
is probably the buphalus of antiquity. There is also a goat called
lerwe, of so timid a nature, that if pursued, it will dash itself down
the nearest precipice : this is the fugephalm of the ancients. There
are large flocks of the antelope running wild ; but they are easily
domesticated, and are much liked by the Arabs for their gentleness
and docility. These beautiful little animals generally inhabit the
borders of the desert, where their facilities of escape are considerably
increased ; but beasts of prey usually follow their footsteps : neither
its innocence or speed is sufficient to secure the antelope's liberty ; and
even the dreary desert cannot affi3rd an asylum against tyranny.

Amongst the most curious quadrupeds of Barbary, is the
gat el hallak, with the ears of a rat ; the lower part of the skin white,
and all the upper part a bright yellow. They also mentioned another
animal, which is said to have the head and horns of an ox on the
body of an ass. I did not, however, see this non-descript; and those

s 2

132 THE hyj:\a.

who said they had, were probably taken in by the knowing ones. In
a certain country there was once exhibited a zebra, which in reality
was only an ass, covered with a skin of the former animal : however,
a professor of natural histoiy, who went to see it, stoutly maintained
that it was neither more nor less than a real zebra. Upon this judi-
cious opinion, an ingenious copy of verses were composed, each
couplet terminating with the following burden : liC jirofcsseur a (lit
que c'étoit une zebre, c'étoit une àne !

There are no tigers in Barbary : those which people take for that
animal are panthers. Towards the Atlas are found ferocious brown
bears. The lions chiefly frequent large woods and forests : the jackall,
nearly as large as the wolf, an incessant prey to hunger, goes abovit
the villages in flocks with terrific howling, frequently opening graves
in search of carcases to devour ; the hyaena, on the contrary, is always
alone, sallying forth in darkness and silence, to make war on the
habitations of men, and on animals : following the caravans, or other
parties of travellers, with eager eyes, he waits the moment of
assault. These animals have also a peculiar instinct in smelling the
newly buried at a great distance, which they take an early opportu-
nity of tearing from their earthly mansion ; satiating themselves on the
half putrified corpse. Strange! that there should be an animal which
delights to feast on the infection of the tomb ! Hyenas are also
endowed with the instinct of associating together in sufficient numbers,
to kill the most formidable animal ; upon which they feed, and after-
wards, drag it into the recesses of the woods and caves which thej-
inhabit.

Both the caravans and wandering Arabs are obliged, while tra-
velling, to be constantly on their guard against the various beasts of
prey which follow their courses : particularly during their halts at
night, when the encampment must not only be formed on the best
principles of defence, but fires lighted all round : and even these
precautions are sometimes found insufficient to deter the famished wolf,
or greedy jackall. The lion is, however, by far the most terrific

LION HUNTERS. 133

adversary met with by the caravans: liis approach is announced by a
deep murmuring, which increases until it sounds like thunder ; thus
petrifying the animals with fear : and while in this state, not unfre-
quently does the sovereign of the forest rush upon his victim, and
get clear off in the general confusion, before a single ball has reached
him. There are regular lion hunters in several parts of Barbary, who,
notwithstanding its otFensive smell and excessive hardness, live on the
flesh, from whicii even dogs will turn with disgust. There are two
modes of killing the lion : one is by tying a cow or other tame animal
to a tree, and watching near it concealed till it attracts the lion, when
several shots are fired, and he falls ; they do not, however, go up to the
spot for some time after, lest the wound should not be mortal : they
also form large fosses, which being covered with slight bushes and
grass, lets the lion fall in directly he treads on them. Upon these occa-
sions, his skin is either put on their horses, and carried along in
triumph ; or, like another Alcides, one of the party throws it over his
shoulders.

The ornithology of Barbar^-, like the other departments of itsnatu-
ral history, is yet open for the illustration of the curious; and will, on
some future day, furnish an ample field for the gratification of science
and curiosity. The birds most commonly known at present, include
all those peculiar to Italy and the rest of Europe, besides many
other species, a few of which are about to be noticed. The quail and
starling is found in prodigious numbers, particularly the former, which
is sometimes seen to cover a large space in the atmosphere; and as a
bird of passage, supplies the opposite shore of the Mediterranean
with a great luxury towards the autumn. There are also in this
country, at least twenty species of the pigeon : the stork is preserved
with the same respect as in Holland. Fowls of the capon kind, are
exceedingly abundant. I a4so observed, while at Algiers, larks of a
reddish hue, which are not seen in Italy. The common duck of
Barbary, has the head generally white, a red beak and dark body,
except the wings, which are often variegated with light coloured spots.

134 THE OSTRICH.

Amongst tlie rare birds, is the karahur, or ash coloured falcon, and
crow of the desert, having the beak and legs red like the partridge :
this bird is called graub, and is of a much larger size than the Euro-
pean crow. The snharag, is like our magpie, but having a most repul-
sive note. The houbarry, whose gall is considered as a sovereign
remedy for diseases of the eye, is also remarkable for its cunning
mode of evading the sparrow-hawk. The capsa, a sparrow larger
than ours, with a shining breast, and ruddy coat like the lark. The
melody of this bird's note far surpasses that of our nightingale or lin-
net; but when placed in a cage it loses all its harmony.

The Desert of Angad abounds with ostriches, which are seen in
large flocks. At a distance they look like troops of Bedouins, often
creating alarm in travellers. At the beginning of winter the large, or
as it is called camel-ostrich, sheds its finest feathers, which are dili-
gently collected by the Arabs. This is the only bird of the feathered
tribe whose foot is composed of two claws, in which it also resembles
the camel, as well as in the mode of carrying its head. The coat
looks more like a skin than otherwise, while its wings seem given to
support an equilibrium, which without them, must be, from his
unwieldy size, constantly endangered. In fact, this extraordinary
bird appears to have hitherto puzzled the acutest naturalists in their
systematic divisions of the feathered race. One mode of hunting
the ostrich, is by forcing M'hole flocks to run against the wind, until
their strength fails, when in attempting to return they are shot by a
party of thirty or forty hunters employed for that purpose. It is said
to be very ludicrous and amusing.*

* A traveller in speaking of this singular bird, observes, " When the ostrich runs, it
has a proud and haughty look ; and even when in extreme distress, never appears in great
haste, especially if the wind is with it. Its wings are frequently of material use in aiding
its escape, for when the wind blows in the direction that it is pursuing, it always flaps them:
in this case the swiftest horse cannot overtake it; but if the weather be hot, and there is no
wind, or if it has by any accident lost a wing, the difficulty of outrunning it is not so
great." — Ed.

THE SCORPION. 135

This country, owing to its uncultivated and thinly inhabited
state, naturally abounds in reptiles of various kinds, many of which
are venomous. It was probably a serpent of the boa species, which
is said to have impeded the army of Regulus, and required its warlike
machinery to destroy it. Amongst a great variety of insects, none is
more annoying than the fly of Barbary: a swarm of them has been
often known to sting a horse until it has fallen under the loss of blood
occasioned by their repeated attacks. But the most dangerous rep-
tile of this country is the scorpion, of which there are various kinds,
diflering in colour, from black and brown, to yellow and white, like
that of the Brazils. They are much larger than those seen in Italy ;
and their poison is so powerful, that many persons die annually from
its effects. Their sting, although excessively painful, is not, however,
mortal in the months of July, August, or September. They are also
more dangerous in towns than the country. From the facility with
which this reptile introduces itself into houses, and even beds, the inha-
bitants are obliged to be very cautious in detaching the latter together
with their curtains from the walls. There are persons, who like the
Psylli of old, have some method of charming the scorpion, by which
it becomes perfectly harmless for the time. --

The natives frequently amuse themselves by a curious kind of war-
fare, which is created by shutting up a scorpion and a rat together in a close
cage, when a terrible contest ensues. I have seen this continue some-
times for above an hour : it generally ends by the death of the scor-
pion ; but in a little time after the rat begins to swell, and in violent
convulsions, soon shares the fate of his vanquished enemy. It is
also a favourite diversion with the Moors, to surround one of these
reptiles with a circle of straw, to which fire is applied ; after making
several attempts to pass the flames, it turns on itself, and thus becomes
its own executioner.*

The most destructive part of the insect tribe, and which is justly

* This very singular fact is fineiy alluded to by Lord Byron, in his Giaour. — Ed.

136 LOCUSTS.

considered as the greatest scourge in Africa, remains to be noticed :
this is the locust : it is much larger than the horse-fly of Italy; sbme
have the wings marked with brown spots, while the body is of a
bright yellow. They are dry and vigorous, like other insects inhabit-
ing the desert. What is called the red skipper of this tribe, does by
far the most injury to vegetation. They generally begin to appear
early in May, spreading themselves over the plains and vallies to
deposit their eggs : which, in another month, sends forth the young,
when they immediately associate in prodigious numbers, often form-
ing a compact phalanx, which covers several acres of ground. In this
order they continue a direct course, and with amazing rapidity con-
sume every particle of fruit, vegetables, and corn that may lie in their
way : thus destroying all the hopes of the husbandman and farmer.
On these occasions the whole population of the district through
which the insect army passes, is occupied in devising the best means of
getting rid of such unprofitable visitors: for this purpose, ditches are
dug and filled with water ; at other times recourse is had to large bon-
fires ; but all is to no purpose with these devastators, whose chiefs seem
to direct them with the precision of regular troops, constantly stimu-
lating them to the pas de charge, and from their unremitted progress,
appear as if they were continually repeating en avant ! Without
ever stopping or turning aside, they rush with impetuosity into the
flames until they are fairly extinguished by their numbers. They also
fill the ditches: and when these obstacles are removed, the rear
advance over their bodies, rendering it impossible for any part of
those before to retreat, if ever so well inclined : they are thus left
no alternative between death and victory : the living passing with
perfect indifference over the suffocated bodies of their companions,
the journey is pursued without any intermission. Two or three days
after the first passage, other bodies, equally large, and prompted by
the same destructive intrepidity, follow in their steps : devouring the
bark and branches of those very trees which their predecessors had
already stript of leaves and fruit. " For they covered the face of the

DREADFUL EFFECTS OF LOCUSTS. 137

wliole earth, so that the land was darkened ; and they did eat every
herb of the hind, and all the frnit of the trees which the hail had left ;
and there remained not any green thing in the trees, or in the herbs
of the field through all the land of Egypt." Exodus, ch. x. 15.

Having continued this predatory warfare for nearly a month,
and laid waste the whole country, they reach their natural growth :
this is the signal for their undergoing a partial metamorphosis, by
changing their coat ; an operation which is etfected by fixing them-
selves on bushes or rocks, and it does not require more than ten
minutes before they are enabled to appear in their new dress ; laying
for a short interval after this, in a state of languor, the heat of the
sun soon gives fresh vigour to their wings, by removing the humidity,
and they are once more restored to their original activity. Taking
a higher flight, their numbers darken the air, while the sound of
their wings is heard for several miles. The unchangeable steadi-
ness with which this singular tribe act in concert during their irrup-
tion, seems to imply a regular direction, rather than its being the
mere effect of instinct.

AVhenever a country is condemned to the above terrible visita-
tion, nothing can exceed the alarm created amongst the inhabi-
tants; and with good reason, for woe to the district over which
they pass ! All is destroyed in little more than the space of an
hour : they do not suffer even a leaf or blade of grass to remain ;
destroying every appearance of vegetation. Dviring their short stay,
they have all the inquietude and instability of hunger: wild as
the country they inhabit, it is impossible for any one to get near
them. Often, while following their dilatory course, they push on too
far, and are precipitated into the sea ; at other times, a sudden north
wind destroys them by millions, when the country is immediately
covered for many miles by their putrid bodies, which is frequently
the source of pestilential diseases. They have also, upon more than
one occasion, when highly favoured by the weather, found their
way to the coasts of France, Spain, and Italy.

T

i;j8 MODE OF EXTIRPATION.

If the Moors were less indolent, or less blinded by superstition, much
might be done towards the total destruction of these voracious insects,
when their eggs are tirst laid ; but, in addition to their favourite doc-
trine of predestination, which accelerates many a serious calamity,
the Arabs and negroes firmly believe in the existence of a bird called
the samarmog; which destroys the locust, as storks do serpents and
other reptiles : with this fabulous notion, the boys who happen to
take up one in their hand, cry out samarmog ; and on its trembling,
or making any effort to escape, they immediately fancy it must j)ro-
ceed from hearing the name of their implacable enemy pronounced.
It is also related, that the Arabs go to Korazan, the country of the
samarmog, and ìjringing a pitcher of w ater back to their own dwellings
it attracts the bird, who is thus induced to come and make war on the
locusts.

Whenever any district is attacked, as already observed, the whole
population unites in every possible effort to dislodge the enemy; but
seeing the inutility of these efforts, they not only cease any longer to
torment themselves at the disappointment, but very wisely endeavour
to turn their misfortune into a source of some advantage : this is
effected by beating the bushes and trees on which the locusts settle, and
on their falling off, putting them into sacks prepared for the purpose :
they are then boiled, and after being dried on the terrace, are con-
sidered as very good eating. I have tasted some that w ere fried in a
pan, and broiled ; they are by no means unpalatable, and something
like sprats, though not very wholesome : the natives seem to swallow
them with a particular zest. This insect is, I believe, the acrides of
the ancients; and, according to some historians, ministered to the
wants of the anchorites in the Thebaid.

DESERT OF ANGAD 139

CHAPTER VII

Desert of Angad. — Hardships in crossing the Sahara or Great Desert. —
Caravans. — The Simoom. — Various Phenomena attending it. — Columns of
Sand. — The Oasis. — Temple of Ammon. — Consolations in the Desert.—
Mount Atlas. — Country South of it, ófc.

Although the Desert of Angad, which is principally situated on
the Algerine territory, is not to be compared to that of Lybia or the
Great Sahara ; yet, possessing the same character, though on so small
a scale, it serves to give some idea of the large ones, which impress
such peculiar features on the whole face of this interesting countr3^

These immense deserts, which are supposed to occupy nearly
half the surface of this vast continent, have been justly called oceans
of sand : they, too, have their gulphs, bays, and islands ; and are
sometimes agitated by an undulating motion so as nearly to approach
the same effect on water. Here also, as at sea, are encountered the
tornado and tempest, while the first appearance of caravans are like
ships seen on the horizon. Hordes of predatory Arabs scour the
interminable space, as pirates do the ocean: weeks and months are
passed on them, during which stars are the traveller's guide ; and, as
on the still more unconfined element, the eyes are often anxiously
directed towards the destined port, with longing expectation. The
vehemence of a burning wind which prevails on these vast plains,
raising volumes of sand, which leave frightful chasms and, vortexes
below, has such a striking resemblance to the sea, that its common
epithet among the Afiicans is. El bahar bilia maa, the sea without
water.

T 2

140 HORRORS OF THE DESKRT.

On these dreary wastes, no trace of vegetation or culture is to be
seen : here it is in vain for the traveller to expect shade from the
vertical sun ; no bird is there to cheer by its note the solemn stillness
of the desert. The light, as observed by the great Button, is here
more gloomy than the darkness of night ; it only enables you to see
the void that surrounds you, and immensity of space which separates
you from a habitable country. If at night you wander from the
caravan to breathe a little air, your own sighs are all that disturb the
death-like silence of the desert : the traveller is obliged to lie down in
the open air, and often without covering ; uncertain whether the follow-
ing day is not ushered in with an illness which may lead to his being
abandoned by his companions. Itis sometimes necessary to abstain from
sleep for thirty hours together, to avoid the dangers which threaten
you ; and during all that time, pursue the harassing march. It is a
luxury, when crossing the desert, to imbibe the dews of night ; and
when it rains, to spread your garments for the purpose of receiving
the salutary drops. Arriving at a small reservoir, or a solitary well,
the words " drink and depart!" salute the eye, as a warning that ban-
ditti may be lying in wait near the spot. Hillocks of sand are thrown
up on one day to answer as a direction for the following, but a
whirlwind has dispersed them, and the caravan is thus frequently
turned out of its course : the stars, too, are often so obscured by
clouds, that there is no possibility of seeing them.

Another source of painful anxiety : — the disconsolate traveller
arrives at a well, nearly suffocated with sand and thirst, but he finds
it dry I He hears the famished beasts of prey, interrupt the horrid
silence, while meditating on the frightful length of his remaining
jouniey, and difficulty of reaching the end of it. His mind is terrified
with the apprehension of dying by heat, hunger, thirst, and debility;
or of being devoured by the monsters who prowl about these dreadful
solitudes. Man is, as it were, lost in this empty and unlimited waste,
in which he only beholds one vast sepulchre.

The most dreadful stories are related of the innumerable perils

HORRORS OF THE DESERT. 141

and disasters to which those who travel over the African deserts, are
exposed. In the time of Leo Africanus, there was a public monu-
ment which commemorated the deplorable end of two people : one a
conductor of camels, and the other a merchant ; who paid the former
ten thousand drachms of gold for his last cup of water, after which
both perished !

Notwithstanding the facility of joining a caravan, that has also
its inconveniences : unable to make any delay, the slow and enfee-
bled are not considered : if taken ill, you are abandoned, and a strayed
companion is never looked after.

Let any one figure to himself, says M. Denon, in his Travels
through Egypt, the fate of an unfortunate being, panting with fatigue
and hunger, all his limbs swelled, the throat parched up, who respires
with difliculty the burning atmosphere which consumes him ; he hopes
that a tew moments of repose may revive his drooping frame ; he
stops, and sees the companions of his journey pass on, after having
solicited their assistance in vain. — Personal calamity has shut every
heart : — without once turning back, and with eyes fixed on the ground,
each follows in silence the footsteps of him who goes before ; all have
passed, and are nearly out of sight ; the exhausted traveller attempts
to follow, but his limbs fail him ; neither the perils nor terrors of his
situation are sufficient to rouse him into activity. The caravan is
gone : he now only sees it as a moving speck on the horizon ; at
length it vanishes ! The unhappy man casts his eyes around ; what
do they encounter?

A wild expanse of lifeless sand and sky I

They are then turned upon himself: he closes them to shut out the
dreary void which surrounds him ; he only hears his own sighs ; all
that he has of existence belongs to death. Alone, isolated in the
world, he is about to yield his last breath, without a single ray of
hope to cheer the dying hour ; and his corse, consumed by the ardent
surface, will soon only leave the whitened bones to serve as a guide

142 DESCRIPTION OK THE SIMOOM.

to the uncertain steps of future travellers, who tempt the melancholy
way, and have dared to encounter the same perils!

That which some people emphatically style the hoirible wind of
the desert, is another of those phenomena, peculiar to tlie climate of
Africa, which is justly calculated to annoy and alarm the most reso-
lute traveller. This wind, which is known as the scirocco in the
Mediterranean, is called samiel, by the inhabitants of Syria, kasmiii
in Egypt, and simoom by the people of Africa. It generally continues
three days; but has on some occasions been known to last from seven
to twenty-one : commencing usually about one o'clock, it blows in
sudden gusts, and moderates towards sun-set.

The burning vapour is mostly preceded by a red meteor, which
extends a considerable way over the horizon. The natives are pre-
pared for its coming by a strong smell of bitumen, which proceeds
from the red cloud : this increases gradually in magnitude, until it
bursts on the atfrighted inhabitants, who on the tirst setting in of this
dreadful wind, cry out, " Lay down close to the ground, behold the
.simoom !" On those occasions it is necessary to keep the mouth closed
for .some minutes, and if possible apply a handkerchief steeped in
vinegar to the nose; to avoid imbibing the first effects of the pestife-
rous blast, which often suffocates in the absence of those neces.sary
precautions, or gives rise to a perpetual asthma, in those who indulge
the fatal curiosity of contemplating that terrible phenomenon. Nature
has taught animals to guard against it, by keeping their heads close to
the ground, when it first comes on. Those who have suffered least
from fatigue, are best able to meet the simoom : it frequently occurs
that while this wind continues, several of a caravan lose all signs of
animation, remaining in that state, until artificial means are employed
for the purpose of bringing the sufferers back to life. When this wind
begins, the upper part of the atmosphere assumes a bright yellow hue,
while the lower is of a deep red. This effect is created by the rays
of the sun penetrating an excessively fine sand, which soon insinuates
itself into all the apertures of your clothes, finding its way into

EFFECTS OF THE SIMOOM. 14'>

the eyes, mouth, and ears, in large quantities. The air also becomes
so obscured by the sand, that it is impossible to see three yards before
you ; while the dry heat of the simoom, inflames the blood, irritates
the nerves, and oppresses the lungs, rendering respiration exceedingly
painful.

The heat of those days during which the simoom continues, is
beyond all expression or belief; it is like passing before a strongly
heated oven. When the heart has burst, to use the expression of the
Africans, the blood rapidly issues from the eyes, ears, and nostrils ;
.some hours after the body turns black, and the limbs lose their
elasticity. This is the wind called corruption in the sacred writings ;
and poison l)y the Arabs. The orientals, in their emphatical and
figurative mode of speaking, when desirous of painting a violent and
rapid conqueror in his exterminating course, compares him to the
burning wind of the desert !

Often while the simoom continues, immense colunms of sand are
seen to elev.ite themselves at different distances in the desert. Some-
times they ascend to such a height as to be lost in air ; at others, they
separate and cover the atmosphere with their liery particles, or a dark
mist; at times they assume the appearance of a thick wood, whose lofty
branches are agitated to and fro by the winds ; and on other occa-
sions look like globes of smoke. Among the other eccentric forms of
this curious phenomenon, it has often been compared to the column of
a great army scouring along the plain, sometimes hurrying on to the
charge, and at others wheeling into line. Frequently after their first
formation, they burst with an explosion like that of cannon, or the
distant thunder. They are sometimes of a deep black, and at others
assume the hues of the rainbow ; and when invested with the sun's
rays, they appear studded with innumerable brilliant stars.

It has repeatedly happened that whole tribes, and numerous
caravans have been buried under the red and agitated sand, which pos-
sesses all the undulating fury of the sea, when roused by the tempest.
This was the case in 1805, when several thousand men and animals

144 OASIS OF THE DESERT.

were totally destroyed between Fez and Mecca. It has repeatedly
occurred, that out of several hundred tiavellers, who unite for mutual
support to cross the desert, not one is able to escape ; and their whi-
tened bones remain strewed about tlie sand, striking terror into those
who come after, and are threatened with a similar fate.

Immense solitudini d'arena,
Le quai, come austro suol le onde marine.
Mesce il turbo spirante, onde a gran pena
Ritrova il pellegren riparo e scampo
Nelle tempeste dell' instabil campo I

The weary pilgrims who are destined to traverse these vast soli-
tudes, are obliged to find a passage over sands that constantly yield
under the feet; which, in addition to its other horrors, renders it
infinitely more irksome than any other species of travelling. Where
nothing is seen but one boundless field of sand, without a single tree,
or the smallest appearance of verdure, not even a cave to shelter in
from the burning luminary; the traveller, like those who under-
take a voyage on the ocean, looks forward to the sight of land, with
the same trembling anxiety : it is therefore ea.sy to conceive with what
joy and consolation, a place of comfort and repose is discovered in
these dreary wastes. Fortunately, such places exist, and are found
in the desert : to these the exhausted caravans have recourse, and put
in for refreshment, as a navigator does when worn out Avith the hard-
shipii of his voyage. The people of Africa call these spots " the
islands of the sandy sea, or of verdure :" another appellation, that of
Ouah, meaning a habitation in the desert, is given to them by the
wandering Arabs ; while the European epithet Oasis, according to
the learned M. Langlet, is derived from an Arabic woid, signifying
repose and consolation. A favourite theme with the poets and his-
torians of antiquity, they have also been frequently alluded to by the
moderns, who have represented them in all the fascinations of enchant-
ment, on which are found fairy palaces decorated with a thousand
brilliant illusions and flowered grottos, whence, in the silence of night,
are heard to proceed sounds of celestial harmony.

THE FLOWERY ISLAND. 145

It appears, that the ancients only knew two of these interesting
spots, the Great and Little Oasis; theThebaid, which is still traversed
by the Abyssinian merchants on their return from Cairo, and the
smaller one of an oval form, the present kingdom of Fezzan and
Darfiir. The first of these, which is said to be tvvo hundred miles in
length, and whose capital is Murzouk, is probably the ancient Gara-
mantes, which a passage of Virgil places at the extremity of the
earth. There are many others besides the above scattered about in
various parts of the great desert : and their number has led some
authors to compare Afiica to a leopard's skin. In the Algerine terri-
tory, and within its little Desert of Angad, there is a small one, so
remarkable for the luxuriancy of its verdure, and richness of vegetation,
that the Moors call it Quesiret el sug, or the flowery island ; and the
poets of this country have often celebrated it under the name of the
beautiful garden of roses.

Upon one of the above spots, is supposed to have been discovered
the ruins of the Temple of Ammon. The approach to this celebrated
place, was in ancient times attended with innumerable perils, as proved
by the failure of repeated attempts to penetrate as far as the temple ;
particularly the case of Cambyses, whose anny was entirely destroyed
in crossing the desert. Quintus Curtius relates all the horrors to
which the Macedonian warrior and his army were exposed in their .
visit to this wonderful spot. Entering the desert, they continued their
march over that solitary waste for several days, oppressed with heat,
thirst, and hunger ; when all of a sudden the renowned site of the
temple burst upon their longing eyes. What surprize and consolation
must not the Grecian soldiery have found in these naked solitudes ?
Forests impenetrable to the rays of the sun, rivulets of the purest
water, and a delightful temperature that enabled the fortunate inhabit-
ants to gather, throughout the year, all the flowers of spring and fruits
of autumn ! The people ofthis singular region were called Ammonians,
and lived in cottages, which were scattered about in various parts of the
Oasis, under the cooling shade of its orange and citron groves.

u

146 THE TEMPLE OF AMMON.

Amongst its other objects of admiration, two of the most dis-
tinguished was the temple, and palace of the kings : there was also
another sacred dwelling, appropriated for the virgins and children who
officiated in the various ceremonies of the shrine. The Fountain of
the Sun, whose water was tepid in the morning, cold at mid-day, hot
towards the evening, and boiling at mid-night ; had its .source in a
wood, which was also dedicated to the divinity. The statue before
which adorations were perfonned, was comjiosed of emeralds and other
precious stones, and had the fonn of a goat : whenever the oracle was
consulted ; and in order to render the god more favourable, this sacred
emblem, placed in a golden boat, was carried in procession, at which
the matrons and virgins attended, chaunting a hymn of prai.se and
supplication.

Although the Temple of Ammon has ceased to be an oracle, there is
little doubt of the spot on which it stood, containing the most precious
remains of Egyptian antiquity in the world ; which, if any means
existed of pursuing researches, would very probably throw consider-
able light on the great question of decyphering the hieroglyphics, a.s
well as the other branches of knowledge which distinguished that
extraordinary people above the rest of the ancient world. It is known
that they received preceptors from Ammon, who taught those mys-
terious doctrines which contributed so much to the veneration and
celebrity of the priests of Memphis in after times.*

* Although Mr. Murray, the ingenious editor of Dr. Leyden's excelleot^compilation,
seems satisfied that the ruins of this celebrated spot were discovered both by Horneman
and Browne, it is extremely difficult to reconcile the slender vestiges seen by these tra-
vellers, with the splendid descriptions handed down by ancient authors : the reader is,
however, left to judge for himself on the passage relating to this subject, which is as
follows : — " Siwah is particularly remarkable for a monument of antiquity, situated a few
miles to the westward. This, which by the natives is called Umraebeda, consists of a
large mass of ruins in such a state of dilapidation, as to make it difficult to discover the
original purpose for which the structure was destined. There are evident remains of an
exterior wall of great strength, and about three hundred yards in circumference. In the
centre are found the ruins of what appears to have been the principal edifice. It is about

MR. BROWNE. 147

In an age so distinguished for enquiry and research as the
present, it is to be hoped that no obstacles, however multiplied
or formidable, will impede the laudable efforts already begun for the
purpose of exploring unknown regions ; amongst which, Africa is
certainly far from being the least interesting. It must be matter of
deep regret to the community at large, that Mr. Browne, whose per-
severance and contempt of danger, seem to have peculiarly fitted him
for so arduous a pursuit, did not experience a better reception at
Darfur. If properly supported by the sultan of that barbarous
country, there is little doubt but that the great question would have
been long since decided : as it is, this enterprizing traveller's exertions,
while they prove the possibility of penetrating into Africa through
Lybia, justly place him in the envied rank of Park, Horneman,
Leydiard, and many others, who merit the applauses of posterity, for
their highly meritorious labours to enlarge the sphere of human know-
ledge, and make us acquainted with countries of which the public

twenty-seven feet in height, twenty-four in width, and ten or twelve paces in length.
The walls are six feet thick, and constructed, particularly in the roof, of very large blocks
of stone, cemented with small stones and lime. The interior of the walls is decorated
with hieroglyphics, and appear to have been partly painted. From the whole description,
compared with that of Browne, and with the ancient writers, there seems very little doubt
that this is the celebrated shrine of Jupiter Ammon, the object of unbounded veneration in
the ancient world. The vicinity of the fertile Oasis of Siwah, and the catacombs found in
the neighbouring mountains, strongly tend to support this opinion." — Discoveries and
Travels in Africa, Vol. I. p. 422.

That Mr. Browne, whose caution in not deciding too hastily on doubtful subjects,
cannot be sufficiently admired, believed there is yet much to excite the curiosity of
travellers in this part of Africa, is evident from the following passage extracted from the
second chapter of his Travels. — " Since the above was written, it has been communicated
to me, that Siwa is the Sirossum mentioned by Ptolemy ; and that the building described
was probably coeval with the Temple of Jupiter Ammon, and a dependency thereon.
The discovery of that celebrated fane, therefore, yet remains to reward the toil of the
adventurous, or to baffle the research of the inquisitive. It may still survive the lapse of
ages, yet remain unknown to the Arabs, who traverse the wide expanse of the desert ; but
such a circumstance is scarcely probable: it may be completely overwhelmed in the sand,
but this is hardly within the compass of belief."— ^rf.

u 2

148 COMFORTS EVEN IN THE DESERT.

must ever remain ignorant without such men ; who are unquestionably
amongst the small number of persons entitled to be considered as the
real benefactors of mankind.

However terrific and repulsive crossing the sands of Africa may
appear by the foregoing observations, the often repeated aphorism,
that every situation, no matter how wretched, has its advantages,
applies with equal propriety to those who accompany the caravans.
" A flower is encountered on the desert, and water rushes from the
rock." After the hours of a painful march, with what eyes a verdant
pathway or majestic palm-tree, is regarded by the worn out pilgrim !
With what transport does he approach a fountain, or collect the
wished for drops from Heaven ! How gratifying amidst the bare and
sterile waste, to behold the camels loaded with refreshing fruits and
salutary nutriment, coming to meet the famished wanderers ! At night,
how delightful to hear the bleating of lambs, and barking of the
shepherd's dog; to discover the perpendicular columns of smoke,
indicating that an Arab camp, or tent of a hospitable Bedouin is near
at hand ! How far beyond all other pleasures, is that of arriving at
an oasis! The travellers united together inspire mutual courage, and
regulating their pace with that of the camels, they animate each other
with the hopes of a safe arrival and happy return. The Arab who
guides, never fails at each halt, to call the faithful together, and divide
the contents of his pannier. After several hours of weary marching,
you arrive in the cooling airs of the evening, to enjoy the balmy
freshness of a lucid firmament ; where the night is ushered in with
innumerable stars, and the great Author of nature surprizes you with
all the splendor of creation. Arriving at the Bedouin's tent, you
are welcomed with the hospitality of the Patriarchs : consumed by heat
and thirst, exhausted by weariness and fatigue; after traversing a
sand, blown about and discomposed by the winds, without finding
a place of refreshment or repose ; all of a sudden cultivated grounds
are discovered, where the travellers are enabled to rest : it can only be
compared to returning life. Milk, dates, and honey, are soon supplied

RANGE OF MOUNTAINS. 149

in abundance; coffee is prepared. All this, amidst the privations and
poverty of the desert, must be a wonderful scene of luxury and
pleasure.

There are several mountainous tracts in Africa : the principal
ones <;onsist of the Mountains of the Moon, and Lupato, south of
Tombuctoo, the Troglodite, Greater and Lesser Atlas, &c. These are
supposed by some naturalists to form almost a continued chain,
corresponding in some degree with the back bone of the world, in
the opposite continents of North and South America.

As to the Greater Atlas, which belongs more immediately to my
present subject, it is the natural boundary between Barbary and the
Great Desert ; its highest points being situated in Morocco towards the
Atlantic, and nearly in a line with the Peak of Teneriffe; while the
lesser Atlas extends along the Mediterranean coasts, terminating in
the vicinity of Tangiers. Between this proud chain, which rises in
progressive majesty, there are numerous intermediate mountains,
whose vallies are watered by innumerable streams, and like those of
the Pyrenees, give a surprizing luxury of vegetation to this part of
Africa; while the gradual melting of the snows, descending in a nor-
thern direction, ensures the almost unequalled fertility of Tunis and
Algiers.*

The Atlas mountains do not appear so lofty to the eye as they
really are, in consequence of not ascending into sharp points, but
gradually rising one above another in gentle undulation. The natural
quality of these mountains is calcareous, while the more dense material
is formed of granite. The western flank rises abruptly, in arid and
black masses, from an extensive plain of sand; but the northern decli-
vity is not only gradual, but ornamented with forests and pasture.

* The geological observations contained in Keatinge's Travels, add very much to the
value of his work in other respects. Of the above celebrated range, he observes — " The
country in the latitude of Fez, westward to the coast, judging by the meandering of the
rivers, is nearly a water-level to the foot of Mount Atlas ; one of whose limbs is pro-
truded to the Straits, while his main body follows nearly the outline of the Mediterranean
coast, to his utmost termination at the falls of the Nile." Vol. II. p. 49.— Ed.

150 CONTEMPLATIONS.

Amongst various other trees produced on tlie summits of the
Atlas, the oak grows to an amazing height ; while its shady branches
are said to shelter a very rich species of sage, spikenard, and several
other rare aromatic plants; the cliffs are embellished by the cactus,
aloe, and Atlas pistacchio. The pyramidical cypress also abounds;
together with a smaller bush producing a delicious berry not unlike
the strawberry of Europe.

In viewing this fine range of hills, it is gratifying to contem-
plate an object of so much veneration with the ancients, and which
has given its name to that boundless region covered by the great
Atlantic. Ascending their summits, the traveller would call to mind
the poetic illustration of these celebrated mountains, which represents
the metamorphosis of Atlas into stone, his robust arms transformed
into so many lofty pinnacles, while a forest of pine covered his fiont :
constantly encircled with clouds, and beaten by tempests, his shoulders
are clothed with a mantle of snow, and rapid torrents issue from his
hoary beard, leaving on his back Olympus and the stars. It has
been truly observed by Rousseau, that in proportion as we elevate
ourselves above the habitations of men, so do the viler passions of
our nature remain below ; approaching the ethereal regions we imper-
ceptibly contract some portion of their unalterable purity. The voice
of Nature is heard with most sublimity in the dashing roar of the cata-
ract, and amidst the gloomy horrors of the precipice.

Prtesentiorem et conspicimus Deum
Per invias rupes, fera per juga,
Clivosque praeruptos, Sonantes
Inter aquas, nemorumque noctem.*

Mountains have ever been the refuge of the patriotic and high-
minded sons of liberty. While blind despotism extends his rod of iron
on the plains of Asia, the pride of independence has enabled the

* This quotation is from the pen of Mr. Gray: the ode from which the extract was
made, will be found in Mason's edition of his friend's works. Vol. I. p. 275. It seems lo
haye been written in the Album kept by the fathers at the celebrated Chartreuse between
Turin and Milan. — Ed.

THE GREAT DESERT. 151

simple and uneducated inhabitant of the neighbouring Alps, to pre-
serve his liberty and virtue. The Mainotes of Epirus, and Montene-
grins of Albania, were long enabled to resist the whole ])ower of Tur-
key ; the generous Armenians waged the magnanimous war of liberty
on the mountains of their native country ; and the rugged summits of
Snowden and Pliulimmon have been immortalized by the unconquer-
able spirit of Owen Glendower, and warlike melody of the bards.

It is cheering to turn our regards from the miserable and degraded
people of Barbary, and place them on tribes who inhabit the fast-
nesses of the Atlas, who live in the midst of plenty, prosperity, and
independence. The goddess they worship, gives more frankness to their
manners, and expression to their physiognomy. This liberty is
defended with the strength of their arm, and fire of patriotism. Retired
on their inaccessible mountains, guards are placed and signals esta-
blished, by which the enemy are discovered at a distance, and thereby
time is given for the whole band to take arms and assume the defen-
sive : these people entertain but one fear on earth, — that of serving !

When the armies of tyrants appear, and set fire to thevillage, they
retreat to the high grounds, and then an early opportunity is taken
of rushing down like a torrent on the enemy. Often reduced to the
greatest extremities, they seem to repeat the words of an ancient
Scythian nation to a ferocious conqueror: " if the earth fails to
supply the means of existence, she will not refuse a sepulchre !"

South of the Great Atlas commences the Biledulgerid, terminated
by the Sahara, or Great Desert. Experience has amply proved this, as
by far the most eligible direction of penetrating into Africa, and opening
a communication with Tombuctoo, as well as the interior of Soudan.
It was by this track that Suetonius Paulinus proceeded, during the
domination of Rome ; and it is still constantly frequented by all the
nations of Barbary : whereas innumerable difficulties have attended
every effort to penetrate by the western coast, owing no less to the
badness of the climate, arising from its uncultivated state, than the
savage nature of the various nations through which a traveller has to

152 FATE OF ROENTGEN.

pass ; and who are as yet unacciistomefl to the advantages of a regular
commercial intercourse with Europeans. With respect to the supe-
rior facilities aftbrded by advancing into Africa on the northern side,
it should be considered that the adventurer not only commences his
journey under the protection of governments which are connected
with the nations of Europe by treaty, but can at all times accompany
one of the numerous caravans which proceed annually from Morocco:
these, although subject to accidents, generally calculate on arriving
at the end of their voyage without any material difficulty. Roent-
gen's melancholy fate, the only European who has attempted to
penetrate from this quarter, is by no means a proof of its imprac-
ticability.* He very imprudently gave himself up to the guidance
of a Mahometan, who was a renegade ; and as a less credulous
person might have suspected, fell a victim to his treachery. Let
us hope, that the success of future attempts will be ensured by
greater precautions. It is not too much to assert, that this large
portion of the globe, containing at least one hundred and fifty mil-
lions of human beings, is well worthy the attention of civilized
society : irom the little we already know, it is scarcely necessary
to say how much geography and natural history, of every kind,
would be improved by the farther encouragement of African disco-
veries ; not to mention its still more important results, as accelerat-
ing the civilization and perfection of so large a portion of the
human species.

* For an interesting account of this promising young man's fate, see Keatinge's
Embassy to Morocco. In speaking of African discovery, the Colonel very properly says,
" policy and commerce cry aloud, and both nature and art should be moved, to accomplish
the opening the inhospitable coast of this redundant country. But to none does the appeal
so forcibly address itself, as to the nation which leads in commercial enterprize. Africa,
indeed, seems now the only part of the globe perfectly free for the introduction of adven-
ture and speculation ; and it is likely to continue so quite long enough to reward the
trouble and risk. The attempts, however, if any take place in this direction, must be
made upon a scale very different in every respect from all hitherto done in this way." —
Vide Travels.— Ed.

INHABITANTS OF BARBARY. 153

CHAPTER VIII.

Different People of Barbary. — Blacks. — Jews. — Christians. — Renegadoes. —
Turks. — Chiloulis. — Berberi. — Bedouin Arabs. — Their Mode of Living. —
Male and Female Costume. — Various Superstitions. — Occupations of the
Arabs. — Riches. — Marriages. — Characteristic Anecdotes.

Having endeavoured to give some idea of the productions, soil,
and climate of Barbary, it is now time to describe the diversity of
people by which it is inhabited. These, widely differing in name,
quality and figure, are principally composed of Negroes, Turks,
Moors, Bedouin Arabs, Chiloulis, Jews, and Christians. Some are
indigenous, while others are of foreign origin : of these, many inha-
bit the towns and plains surrounding them, while others dwell on
mountains, or wander irregularly about the desert. Towards the sea-
coast the Moors are white, and of an olive tinge near Mount Atlas.
In the cities, such as Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoly, they are born with
an excessively fair complexion; this by constant exposure to an ardent
sun, becomes naturally of a brownish cast. It is said that there
exists in one of the remote vallies near the Atlas, a race of men
lineally descended from the Vandals. They are represented as very
fair, with the blue eyes and light hair, which distinguished their nor-
thern ancestors. Bruce says he took the trouble of making a
perilous excursion to the Mountains of Auress in search of these
people, previously noticed by Dr. Shaw, and was even fortunate
enough to discover them. Although I cannot corroborate the asser-
tions on this subject, not having seen any of the tribe alluded to, I

X

154 DESCRIPTION OF SLAVES.

was seriously assured of their existence by several Moors during my
stay at Algiers. Some pretend that the celebrated Abyssinian
traveller has exaggerated his account of these people. But as a
professor, who used to surprize his friends by the violence and obsti-
nacy with which he endeavoured to support the most absurd hypo-
thesis, once observed, " You cannot know the pleasure there is in
making others believe, that, in which we have no faith ourselves!"*

Nearlv all the blacks in this country are in a state of unequivocal
slavery. The barbarians are not only pirates on the water, liut
extend their system of robbing to the land also. While the corsairs
scour the sea, parties of licenced banditti are dispatched towards the
desert in pursuit of human beings: arriving undiscovered in the
peaceful villages at night, they surprize and carry off the inoffensive
inhabitants, who are quietly occupied in looking after their flocks and
harvest. These depredators are seconded by the descendants of many
Moorish families, who fled from Barbary during the reign of the
caliphs, and afterwards established themselves in Soudan, and other
countries of the interior.

There is also a great number of slaves bought from the Shafrees,
or Moorish dealers, and the Slatees, native merchants, who bring
them in large droves to Vergela in the country of the Beni Mezzaab.
Besides those v\ ho die on the road from fatigue and ill usage, it is
supposed that there are, at least, twelve thousand annually sold in
the different regencies. The march often exceeds a hundred days ; and
those who survive, are exposed for sale in the bazaars. It really Alls

* The following is Dr. Shaw's notice of the above race : " It is remarkable, that the
inhabitants of the Mountains of Auress, have a quite different mien and complexion from
their neighbours ; for they are so far from being swarthy, that they are fair and ruddy ;
and their hair, which, among the other Kahyles, is of a dark colour, is with them of a deep
yellow. These circumstances, notwithstanding their being IVlahometans, and their speaking
only the common language of the Kabyles, render it probable that they may be a remnant
of the Vandals." Vide Travels, Chap. III. Bruce's account is to be found in the first
volume of his travels. — Er/.

NEGROES. 1-55

one with horror to see these wretched creatures perfectly naked,
oppressed with all the bitterness of grief, thus reduced to the state of
mere beasts of the field. Both men and women are minutely examined
with no less indelicacy than atrocity, by their inhuman purchasers.
Those who come the greatest distance, are most highly valued, as it
diminishes the chance of escape, an important consideration to those
who buy them : those destined to remain in Barbary, are employed in
the houses of rich Moors, while the remainder are conducted to the
markets of Cairo and Egypt. Several Spanish and Portuguese shijjs
have been taken by the English, for persisting in this iniquitous
traffic, contrary to the general voice of Europe, and all civilized
nations. It has also been reported, that the transports employed to
convey the troops under the ferocious Morillo, were afterwards des-
tined to visit the coast of Guinea, for the execrable purpose of loading
with slaves for the New World. Spain and Portugal is to the poor
blacks, like the terrible land of Koom, south of Tombuctoo ; where,
after being bought, the unhappy slaves are .slaughtered and eaten.*

Those negroes whose natural mildness of disposition and good
nature, led an English traveller to call them the Hindoos of
Africa, merit a very different treatment from their fellow creatures.
The travellers who have frequented the desolate banks of the Joliba,
at a time when Cafirs and strangers experienced the worst reception
where Moorish princes governed, were by the negroe tribes in the

* Thanks be to God, the cause of religion and humanity has just experienced another
signal triumph, in the abolition of this impious traffic by Spain, on consideration of
receiving a large sum from England. Although there are people who may disapprove of
our paying the deluded cabinet of Madrid, for yielding at last to remonstrances which
it could no longer with decency resist; yet, if there ever was a principle upon which an
overstrained application of public money could be justified, it is surely furnished on the
present occasion : and I have no doubt that the majority of the nation will unite in giving
full credit to His Majesty's ministers, for this beneficent act of magnanimity and expiation.

Upon such sacrifices

The gods themselves throw incense I
And when the little interests which now agitate the minds of men so violently, have passed

X 2

156 CHARACTER OF THE NEGROES.

vicinity of that river received as friends and brothers. Every one
recollects the horrible picture drawn by Park, of what he suffered at
Deena and in the Moorish camp of Benowm ; also the cruel manner in
which he was retained in slavery by Ali, the sultan of Ludamar.
The people of Nigratia refused him both food and lodging ; calling
white men the s ns of the devil. The Mandengoes, Fuladoo, and
other negroe nations, were, on the contrary, courteous and obliging.
All must recollect the beautiful simplicity and pathetic tenderness of
a song, which the poor woman of Bambara composed, to soothe the
melancholy mind of this meritorious traveller, accompanying it with
the most zealous offices of kindness.

Judging of the negroes I saw in JJarbary, they appeared to pos-
sess a natural gaiety and steadiness of character, which formed a
striking contrast to the gloomy taciturnity of the Moors. When in
their own countries, dancing and singing is said to form their chief
delight and greatest source of amusement : they never salute a booti,
or head of a tribe ; nor return thanks for any favours which may have
been conferred on them, without adding a song in praise of their
generous benefactor. All the African villages, undisturbed by war,
resound with song ; and after sun-set, this great continent may be
compared to one universal ball-room, without its superfluous ceremo-
nies. As these demonstrations of happiness generally take place at
the same hour, and the nights are beautifully serene, the neare«it
villagers alternately reply to each other in the national song, while

away, and in a few transitory years our animosities descend with us into the silent grave ;
it is actions like the above that will more than redeem the errors of England, and make her
an example fit to be held up at once to the applause and imitation of posterity.

If, however, it should hereafter appear, that the four hundred thousand pounds given
to Spain on this occasion, are appropriated to any other purpose than the one explicitly
stipulated for in the treaty; viz. in compensating the loss sustained by His Catholic
Majesty's subjects engaged in this nefarious traffic, while it was legally authorized, such
a flagrant abuse of confidence will not escape the resentment of our government, while
it cannot fail to afford the nation at large, another strong ground of complaint against the
ministers and advisers of Ferdinand, the Vllth. — Ed.

JEWS. 157

the more susceptible listen with eager curiosity, to catch the voice of
their ebon Dulcinea. The black slaves in Algiers also dance occa-
sionally ; but it is the dance of slavery, in which chains echo a
terrible response to the music. Theirs is no longer the song of ten-
derness and peace : it is slow, monotonous, and sorrowful ; the
expression of deep and settled melancholy.

Of Jews, there is an immense number scattered all over the coast
of Barbary. The city of Algiers contains about eight thousand, most
of whom have swerved considerably from the belief of their ancestors,
following the Talmud and Kabbala, with the exception of those
called free, who generally come from Leghorn to this place, and are
allowed entire liberty in their movements. The unhappy sons of
Israel, so badly treated in other countries, can expect little indul-
gence from the barbarians ; consequently there is no species of out-
rage or vexation to which they are not exposed. They are prohibited
from writing or speaking Arabic, to prevent their being able to read
the dicine Koran. They cannot ride on horseback, but are obliged
to go on mules and asses ; the first being too noble an animal for
them. When passing a mosque, they are obliged to go bare-footed.
They dare not approach a well or fountain, if there be a Moor
driaking there ; or sit down opposite t<i a Mahometan. Their cloth-
ing Is obliged to be black ; which colour is held in contempt by the
Moors. The Je>vish women are only permitted to veil a part of their
features. The indolent Moor, with a pipe in his mouth and his legs
crossed, calls any Jew who is passing, and makes him perform the
offices of a servant. Others amuse themselves by smearing the hands,
visage, hair, and clothes of the Jewish boys, with paint or mud ;
while the Turkish soldiers often enter their houses, insulting the
females, without the heads of the family having the privilege of
desiring them to retire.

It is the business of Jews to execute all criminals, and after-
wards bnry their bodies. They are also employed to carry the Moors
on their shoulders, when disembarking in shoal water. They feed

1Ó8 SUFFERINGS OF THE JEVVgr.

the animals of the seiaglio, and are incessantly exposed to the scoff-
ings and de ision of the young Moors, without the possibility of
resenting it. Frequently beaten by their persecutors, if they lift a
hand in their own defence, agreeable to the lex talionis of the Moors,
it is taken otf. But that which is still more irksome, is the never
ending contributions levied on them : the weekly sum of two thou-
sand dollars is exacted as a general tax upon the whole tribe, besides
various other individual assessments, particularly whenever any
Moorish festival takes place. The Turks insist on borrowing monev
even by force ; and contrary to the European maxim, it is not he who
forgets to pay, that is incarcerated, but the man who refuses to lend !
A Jew cannot leave the regency without giving security to a large
amount for his return. If any of the sect become bankrupts, and
there happens to be a Turkish creditor, he is almost invariably accused
of fraudulency and hung. Woe to those, who attempt to complain
on such occasions : which is no trifling aggravation of their sufferings.
There was once an imposition laid on fountains; upon which a
poet wrote the following address: " You are loaded with imposts
like us; but more happy than we — you are at least allowed to
murmur /"

It is, however, astonishing with what stoical fortitude all this is
borne by the followers of Abraham ; many of whom, underan appearance
of the greatest poverty, accumulate large fortunes. " It is true," said
a Jew, on my asking how he could remain in a country, where he
.suffered so many vexations; " we suffer a great deal; but then what
money we make ! !"

On one side this extraordinary race suffer innumerable vexations
and acts of injustice, together with the most cruel sei-vitude ; while on
the other, their talents and industry, place them as the directors and
proprietors of commerce, manufactures, and even the mint. The
taxes immediately within the regency are all collected by Jews, and
persons of this persuasion are the principal landholders. They serve
as interpreters and secretaries, being frequently employed both as

CONDITION OF THK JEMS. lór>

counsellors and agents, in affairs ol'tlie greatest delicacy. And either
from the influence of their money, or persevering flexibility of their
character, they often exercise an unlimited sway in the divan and
palace of the Dey. The Turks look with hatred and contempt upon
the Jewish financiers, while they secret y envy their riches. Such,
however, is the fate of the tax-gatherer and monopolist in every
country.

The moral and political condition of this people, is a singular
phenomenon in the history of human nature: they are a nation whose
origin is traced to the first ages of the world, and who seem destined
to continue till its close; a people whom God selected for his
own, and led out of Egypt by his hand, filling with inspiration the
writers of their history ; a nation which regarded the Divinity as its
king, his laws as their rule, and themselves as his patrimony; that
is scattered all over the globe without a country, and which, in the
midst of persecution and exile, preserves its faith untainted; a people,
in fine, whose singular customs, and unshaken national character
merit no less the attention of the philosopher than the statesman.
How curious to reflect on this strange destiny of the sons of Jacob !
Warriors and conquerors under the intrepid David, that man after
God's own heart, full of power and of glory ; and governed by Solo-
mon, filling the eastern world with lessons of wisdom, while Judea
reposed in peace with all mankind. What diversity of suftering did
they not subsequently experience until the destruction of the temple,
whether they remained faithful to Darius, after the victory at Arbela,
or sorrowfully wandered over the plains of Nineveh : chained behind the
Roman chariot ornamenting the triumph of Nero and Vespasian, or
when afterwards massacred for the rebellion of Barcochebas and of
Zabafer Levi. Even in the utmost excesses of misfortune, they do
not cease to be a nation, to sigh after the banks of Jordan, and the
dulcet sounds of Solima's harp ! To them, an attachment to the dogma
of their forefathers is the first of virtues. They were the architects
of the colossal pyramids of Egypt, and of the Roman amphitheatres.

160 SECTS AMONG THE JEWS.

And thus, while in the lap of misery, have they participated in the
greatest designs. The race of Abraham has never despaired of the
divine justice : inflexible in adversity, they steadily direct their eyes
towards that Omnipotent God, who has performed so many prodigies
for them, and foretold, — the time will come, the work shall be
aecomplished !

There are, at present, three different sects among the Jews : the
Karaiti, who only recognize the law of Moses in its literal sense ;
the Samaritans, a kind of schismatics, who are confined to some parts
of Palestine; and the Rabbinists, who unite the Mosaic law to the
interpretations contained in the Talmud, and in the oral traditions.
Various other branches of Jewish sectarians are no longer recognized
amongst them ; such as the Saduceens, a species of materialists ;
the Essenists, whose doctrines had some resemblance to those of the
Stoics, while their manners were not unlike the Quakers, and Moravian
brothers; the Therapeuti, who seemed to have been models to the
Anchorites; and the Rhodians, which was rather a political tlian
religious sect.

The Talmud is a collection of maxims and precepts exclusively
compiled for the edification of Jews, amongst whom its authority
is very great ; it being in some degree their canonical and civil code.
This book contains many traits of a pure and sublime morality, toge-
ther with numerous absurdities. The following, for instance, is no less
ridiculous than amusing: the Messiah, it says, is to give to his
people assembled in the land of Canaan, a grand entertainment: at
this will be served the precise wine used at the table of Adam ! and
which had been presei-ved by the angels in vast cellars, situated in the
centre of the earth. At this feast, is also to be served up a famous
little fish, called the Leviathan, which is not less than two or three
hundred leagues in length. In the beginning God created the
masculine and feminine," of this singular fish ; but as their offspring
might have given rise to some inconvenience on earth, God kdled
the female, which he salted down for the feast of the Messiah.

THE TALMUD. 161

The great Benemoth is also to be slaughtered for the same occasion :
this animal is of so monstrous a size, that he daily consumes the hay
of a thousand mountains. The feminine was killed for the same
reasons as that of the Leviathan, but not salted, because fish is pre-
ferable.*

With the exception of slaves and a i'ftw other individuals, there
are no Christians settled at Algiers. The Dey takes care to prevent
their increase ; and those who go there for any commercial purpose,
cannot remain longer than a stated period, or take a house, and are
consequently obliged to lodge at the residence of some well-known
Jew during their continuance in the city. It is said that this rigorous

* There are two works which bear this name ; the Talmud of Jerusalem, and that of
Babylon. Each of these is composed of two parts: the Mishna, which is the text, and
is common to both ; and the Gemerà, or commentary. The Mishna, which comprehends
all the laws, institutions, and rules of life, which, besides the ancient Hebrew scriptures,
the Jews thought themselves bound to observe, was composed according to their
unanimous testimony, about the close of the second century : it was the work of Rabbi
Jehuda Hakkadosh, who was the ornament of the school at Tiberias, and is said to have
occupied him forty years. The commentaries and additions made by succeeding Rabbis,
were collected by Jochanan Ben Eliezar ; some say in the sixth, and others in the seventh
century, under the name of Gemerà, that is, completion, because it completed the
Talmud.

It cannot certainly be denied, that the history of this extraordinary people is calculated
to excite our astonishment in no trifling degree ; yet, I candidly confess, no new discovery
in their general character has induced me to change an opinion 1 ventured to give of them
in another place : which opinion, founded as it was on the usurious principles and isolated
selfishness of the whole tribe, corroborated by ages of experience, could not have been very
favourable to the sons of Levi. If, however, any person, whether Jew, Christian, or
Turk, has the goodness to inform me in what particular instances they have, as a nation,
gone out of the beaten path of monopoly, and insatiable love of gain, for the general
benefit of mankind, I shall then be most happy in adding my applause to that of others.
No liberal mind can approve of the persecutions this sect has met with, in common with
every other in the days of barbarism ; which have, I trust, gone by for ever. Without
attempting to justify that which will not bear an excuse, it has frequently occurred to me,
that while religious and political persecution was the order of the day in Europe, the Jews
had infinitely less reason to complain than their Christian neighbours. — Ed^

Y

162 MISERIES OP EUROPEANS.

system arises as much from the fanatical zeal of their chief, as from a
strong feeling of jealousy on the part of the Moors, on seeing the pre-
dilection of their women towards Christians in general.

The life which a European leads in this place, is naturally of the
most melancholy description. The continual sight of his brethren in
chains, is a constant source of suffering, while he is personally exposed
to a thousand dangers and unpleasantries, arising from the unsettled
state of the government, and probable chance of offending one of the
faithful ; which event generally ends in the Nazarene's receiving a
good drubbing. It has also happened, that an enthusiastic Marabout,
upon some trifling pretence, has peremptorily insisted on a Christian's
being circumcised, and assuming the turban ; from which appeal it
is extremely difficult to escape : and if they accidentally come in con-
tact with any of their religious processions, there is a very fair chance
of suffering the martyrdom of St. Stephen. If one happens to be near
the door of a Moor, when leaving his house, jealousy is immediateh'
awakened, and requires very little stimulus to be followed b}^ a coup
de poignard. When found in the streets somewhat late at night, you
are seized and carried before the Cadi ; met by any of the young Turks,
in addition to the pleasing epithet of cornutos and can senza fede,
your ears are saluted with a chorus to the following effect : — " The
truebelievers with celestial houris lie on beds of roses; while Jews and
Christians are extended on burning coals I" The ladies, too, by the
way of not losing the opportunity of a good joke at our expence, on
passing along, accompany a very significant look, by placing their
fair hands against the forehead, in such a way as not to be mi.staken
for a pair of horns ! If, on the contrary, any of them are induced to
view us less unfavourably, and the intrigue be discovered, the fate of
Leila awaits the female, while the Christian loses his head.*

In alluding to the probability of such an event as the foregoing,
i» may be proper to observe, that in addition to the perils of meeting

* Vide Lord Byron's Giaour.

AN INTRIGUE. 16'i

a complaisant Moorish woman, there is also that of being entrapped
for the purpose of extortion or assassination.

A young Christian, observing a beautiful woman, attended by
an old female slave, fancied that his regards were not disagreeable,
and that he might consequently follow her with impunity. The old
Argus coming up, told him to stop, but begged he would contrive to
be near the mosque about the same hour next day. He did not fail
to attend, and the lady also came; but instead of the same slave,
another had taken her place, whose appearance seemed quite gigantic
to the Christian. Soon after, both entered the shop of a Jew, making
signs to the young man to follow; scarcely had he crossed the
threshold, when the new attendant, raising the veil which had
hitherto covered the head, disclosed a face not unlike that of Medusa ;
and in a stern voice demanded of the petrified Christian, how he
dared to follow the woman of a Mussulman Ì Upon this, the poor
young man stammered out, by way of explanation, that he meant no
harm, and only followed with the honest intention of offering his
hand to the lady who had inspired him with the strongest passion.
— That cannot be, replied the Moor, as she is my wife ; and I am
not disposed to cede her to such a dog of a Christian as you are ; but
I am determined to punish you, for having attempted to raise your
thoughts to the wife of a Mahometan. Therefore, take the choice of
either instantly becoming a Mussulman, or of being put to death !
On this proposition being made, the wretched Christian trembled like
a leaf, ignorant how he should act ; when the proprietor of the shop
whispered in his ear, that he might get out of the scrape, by giving
the Moor all the money he had about him, and signing a paper for
the payment of another large sum : to all which the European most
joyfully consented, considering himself as extremely happy in having
thus got clear at so cheap a rate. The female, Moor, and Jew, who
had combined on this occasion to deceive the Christian, had a fine
laugh at the result of their successful farce, which appeared likely to
have so tragical an end for the disappointed suitor.

1 2

164 RENEGADOES.

What kind of a life, therefore, must one lead in a place where
there is no person witji whom you can change a word in safety ; where
you are obliged to give the wall to beasts of burthen ; where women
as they pass by, honor you with the sign of Capricorn , and Marabouts
insist on your being circumcised! A person travelling through Ger-
many, was once met by a large dog, who seemed to approach him
with a ferocious howl, as if intending to bite; by the way of keeping
the animal at bay, the traveller stooped down to pick up a stone, but
to his great mortification, found them all fixed to the earth by a hard
fi-ost, upon which he exclaimed: " Cursed country ! where they bind
the stones, and unchain the dogs !" I shall say, evil befal the place
where slaves are loaded with chains, and Marabouts are suffered to be
at large !

The number of renegadoes at Algiers is by no means numerous :
some Christians, forced to fly from Ceuta for their crimes, rendered
desperate by long suffering, or blinded by a passion for some female,
have abandoned the religion of Christ for that of Mahomet. Upon
this they receive pay like the Turks, and can aspire to all the honors
of the state, including that of Dey, as in the case of Mezzomorto. ^ It
is not, however, customary for the Moors to encourage proselytism
amongst the slaves, knowing what a loss they must sustain by the
latter's freedom, and also from an opinion that an apostate, either in
politics or religion, cannot be trusted.

To prevent the advancement of a renegade to the higher offices,
he is interdicted from marrying a Mahometan female: his mistakes or
bad conduct, are also punished with the utmost severity, while he is
always surrounded by a large cabal, and envious eyes are ever directed
towards his ruin. It is related of a Grand Seignor of the Turks, that

* So called from his being found half dead on the field of battle : having the com-
mand of a shabeque, he ran before the ship of a Christian, upon which the Dey ordered
him on pain of death to return to the ocean and re-establish the lost honor of Algiers : this
Mezzomorto obeyed, evincing many proofs of intrepidity which advanced him to the chief
naval command, and finally led to his becoming Dey.

TURKS OF ALGIERS. 165

he wrote to the Pope, recommending a French bishop, for the next
cardinal's hat that became vacant : and by the way of raising him in
the holy father's estimation, mentioned that the said bishop had a
great desire to turn Mahometan !

It is well known with how much avidity the famous Count Bon-
neval was received at Constantinople; and the Emperor of Morocco
gave the command of his army to the Duke de Ripperda. But
things have undergone a wonderful change in this respect ; and we
may safely assure ourselves, that neither a Christian nor renegade, can
now attain to any post of eminence in the states of Barbary.

All those who embrace the Moorish religion are not thereby ren-
dered free: they have merely less fatigue, and enjoy rather more
liberty, particularly that of giving themselves up to a greater course
of infamy. If a Christian is heard to repeat, " God is merciful, and
Mahomet is his prophet;" he is taken before the Cadi, and instantly
obliged to embrace the faith of Islamism. The Jew who may be desi-
rous of turning Mahometan, must tirst become a Christian, in order,
as the Moors say, to follow the course of different religions, and
finally pass through those gradations which lead to perfection.

The Turks of Algiers, as observed in a former chapter, are all
foreigners, originally sent from Constantinople for the purpose of
defending and maintaining this government under the protection and
influence of the Grand Seignor. Having, however, once obtained
power, this refractory body not only refused to obey, but shortly after
assumed a degree of supremacy which has for nearly two centuries
been a source of the utmost terror and oppression, both to the
natives, and those European powers whose maritime force may
have been insufficient to cope with the corsairs. Exercising a much
greater share of power than the Pretorian guards of Rome, Mama-
lukes of Egypt, or the Tartars in China; they occupy all the offices
of state, and keep the Moors in the cruellest bondage, while their
violence has long made Algiers the theatre of revolution and bloodshed.

166 HAUGHTINESS OF THE TURKS.

This lawless force is kept up by sending ships and commissaries
to the Levant annually, to procure new recruits, in order to fill up
those vacancies occasioned by war, deaths, or punishments. These
are collected from the very lowest dregs of the people in Smyrna and
Constantinople, nor are the vilest malefactors rejected. The Barbai-y
recruits are looked upon with so much contempt, that even the women
refuse to accompany them in their new calling. No sooner, however,
are they landed in Algiers, and formed into an insolent and domi-
nating militia, than a high air of importance is put on; and
giving themselves the title of Effendis, they possess all the arrogance
and pride, which generally belong to the upstart favourites of
fortune. Notwithstanding their vanity, they are by no means
ashamed of their base origin : on the contrary, they seem to feel a
peculiar pleasure in publishing from what low degrees they have
been enabled to arrive at the highest offices. A Dey while disputing
with one of the European consuls, once said: " my fatljer salted
tongues at Pera, and my mother sold them in Constantinople; but I
never knew a worse tongue than yours !"

Although the militia seldom exceed ten or twelve thousand, they are
enabled to keep five millions of people in fear and subjection, by all
of whom they are naturally held in the greatest abhorrence, notwith-
standing the hard necessity of obeying such monsters. It would
appear, however, that they have to deal with a people so degraded by
oppression, that they place their chief glory in humbling themselves,
esteeming a man in proportion as his slavery is abject. The ass com-
plained to Jupiter of being always condemned to labour and the
lash. " My friend," replied the god, " how is it possible for me to
persuade men that you are not a poltroon Ì Besides, you know they
are naturally cruel : however, I'll do all I can to alleviate your con-
dition : you shall be rendered insensible!" Tacitus with a profound
knowledge of human nature, has observed, that the first person who
dared to become a tyrant, found slavish hearts ready to obey him ;

THE BEREBERS. 167

and that voluntary servitude makes more tyrants, than the latter do
slaves.

The distrustful policy of the Ala^erine a^overnment takes ali
possible care to prevent too close a union between the Turkish sol-
diery and Moorish population, so as to render them at once the
instruments and accomplices of its tyranny ; consequently intermar-
riage with the Moorish women is not encouraged. It was not long
since that a rich Moor, Sydi Cador, lost his head, for having given his
daughter in marriage to an aga. But the empire of love is the most
powerful of all, so that many Turks influenced by the ardour of
passion, unite themselves to natives, and they are generally prefen-ed
by the parents, who are thus enabled to anticipate support in the
hour of revolution. Weakness looks to power for protection, and
beauty likes to become the reward of valour. The children who
spring from these marriages may in some measure be compared to
the Creoles of the AYest Indies ; and are called CInloulis. At Tunis
they become soldiers, and receive pay almost as soon as th ey are able
to walk ; but in Algiers they are not enrolled until a more advanced
age. Viewed with great jealousy by the Turks, the Chiloulis seldom
rise to situations of trust or dignity. Many are employed as accoun-
tants and agents in mercantile houses, in which situation their intel-
ligence and fidelity have become almost proverbial. Although par-
taking of Turk and Moor, they are decidedly most attached to the
latter. Numerous, strong, and united, many think that in the future
revolutions of this place, a Chilouli will reign as Petion, or Chris-
tophe, at St. Domingo.

The Berberi, or Berrebres, are the indigenous people of Barbary.
to which they have given this name. They are the descendants of
the Carthaginians, Getuli, and Lybians; mixed with the Saracen
invaders who entered Africa, under the inhuman Kaled el Valid,
sumamed the Sword of God. They inhabit the whole chain of the
Atlas, near the Isthmus of Suez, and are the same race as the Bere-

IO» CHARACTER OF THE BEREBERS.

bras, a people of Upper Esfypt, as also the Guanches of the Canaiy
Islands, speaking nearly the same language. They are of a very
athletic form : and extremely brave, and are also remarkable for fine
teeth and eyes, the pupils of which are generally of a bright brown,
not unlike the gloss of antique bronze. Neither fat, nor very fleshy,
they are chiefly formed of nerve and muscle. Although wrinkled in
early life, their vigorous and active habits keep off" the feeling of old
age, which is only discovered by the whiteness of their beard and
hair: they never speak of it, or seem to know of such an evil; and
whenever at the age of seventy, it happens that they are unable scru-
pulously to perform all the offices of the sabbath, as enjoined by the
Koran, they do not accuse weight of years, but incantation and
sorcery. Their dress is composed of a shirt without sleeves, and
short pantaloons; the head is shaved in front, leaving the hair behind;
they do not let their beard grow, having merely a little tuft on the
chin and mustachios. They inhabit small cabins on the highest
mountains, and some find .shelter in caves, like the ancient
Troglodites. Their houses are built of stone, or wood, and sur-
rounded by a wall, which is pierced with loop-holes, for defence all
I'ound. Proud and audacious, they are implacable in their hatred.*
They are excellent swimmers, and delight in the chace. Passionately
fond of their musket, they frequently expend seventy or eighty
dollars to ornament it with ivory and silver. They generally hang
the paw of a lion, or other ferocious beast of prey round their
children's necks to inspire force and courage, and the young brides
present their husbands with simular amulets. Their fields are well
cultivated. Warmly attached to their native mountains, they preferthe
higher grounds, and very rarely change their place of abode.

The most numerous tribe of the Berberi, known by the name of

* This part of the Arab's character is fully illustrated in a curious anecdote, p. 77, of
Tully's Residence in Tripoly, one of the most interesting and amusing works extant on
Barbary. — Fyd.

THE BEDOUIN ARABS. ]6J)

ScluiUa, are found in Morocco. In Algiers they are called Kabiles,
or Cubuil ; those who inhabit the Sahara, are styled Towaricks.
The Culmil are the poorest and most filthy. They regard foreigners
and travellers of every kind, with great jealousy : it is on this account
necessary to make them believe you are looking for medicinal herbs ;
for, like all savage nations, they cannot conceive that any one travels
for instruction or amusement. The Kabiles of Algiers, are by far the
most discontented and rebellious of all Barbary. The Turks watch
them with the utmost jealousy and suspicion, often retaining the sons
of their chiefs, as hostages for the good conduct and fidelity of the
parents. I saw two of these at Algiers in chains, and treated with
as much severit}^ as the Christian slaves. The Berberi obey foreign
domination with disdain, while their hatred foments with the ardent
heat of a burning sun .

It is scarcely necessary to inform the reader, that the Bedouin
tribes form a very considerable portion of the whole population of
Barbary. Their name is derived fi'om Beddui, an inhabitant of the
desert, extending from the sandy plains of Persia to Morocco.
These people have preserved their pristine simplicity of manners and
customs, with singular constancy ; and still continue strongly attached
to the pastoral life, so well adapted to their rich vallies, wanii sun,
and serene climate. Their language is the Arabic; which thev
pretend to speak in its greatest purity. Tliere is no nation on earth,
that has adhered so closely to ancient manners, and their primitive
mode of living, as the Arabs : religion excepted, they are precisely
what they were in the days of Job. A traveller arriving amongst them,
is no less surprised than delighted, to find their dress, manners, and
usages, exactly as he had seen them described in history, and repre-
sented on canvass : not to mention their perfect conformity to the
accounts transmitted by Pliny, Strabo, Leo Africanus, and Pomponius
Mela : so that amongst the Arabs, a modern traveller may fancy
himself in the midst of the people of antiquity.

Those tribes nearest Algiers, were soon brought into subjection,
z

170 TUE BEDOUIN ARABS.

and its consequent corruption ; but the more remote ones still remain
free, retaining- all the pride of liberty. vSome of these Bedouins are
frequently seen at the capital, half naked, and armed with bows and
arrows, mounted on fiery char/?ers. They are generally distinguished
by a fine form and generous nature : they boast of having descended
from the patriarchs, and are excessively vain of their freedom. Pas-
sionately fond of the open country and free air of their native plains,
they cannot conceive how others dwell in the mephitic atmosphere of
cities. Although extremely well made, they are by no means hand-
some in features. Like the Mulattoes, their complexion is olive
coloured, but more inclined to brown. They are also meagre, and
very much parched by the sun : their eyes and teeth are equally fine
as those of the Berrebres ; while the exquisiteness of their senses is
proverbial. By a simple inspection of the soil, a Bedouin will
know the exact spot where water can be found, however deep in the
surface; and he hears its murmuriugs at an amazing distance,
while his sense of smelling enables him to trace the road his camel
has recently passed over. In fact, there is, in the genera! character
of this race, a mixture of strength and generosity which always
attracts the attention of strangers. It is not a single feature that is to
be considered : we should judge of the entire physiognomy. The
Bedouin is also temperate, laborious, and tolerant ; being, in cases of
emergency, capable of abstaining from any kind of food for two or
three days :* all which most happily adapts him to the wandering
life he leads in the desert. He is not choleric or litigious, like the
Moor; and when engaged in any dispute, he is not only very
noisy, but often draws his cangiar, or dagger ; but scarcely ever

* A celebrated French traveller, in speaking of this singular race, observes, " It will
appear almost incredible to us, but it is an undoubted fact, that the quantity of food
usually consumed by the greatest part of them, does not exceed six ounces a day. Six or
seven dates soaked in melted butter, a little sweet milk or curds, serves a man a whole
day ; and he esteems himself happy when he can add a small quantity of coarse flour or a
little ball of rice!"— iS^d.

THEIR EDUCATION AND COSTUME. 171

uses it; and if, during the most violent quarrel, his opponent repeats,
" Think of God and the prophet," the weapon is instantly put up,
and peace restored. Tlieir vengeance is terrible and long cherished:
as in Corsica, if one of an Arab family is murdered, the most dis-
tinguished member in that of the assassin's must perish, should the
perpetrator remain undiscovered. But these resentments arise from a
keen sense of honor, and as they believe, just retaliation. AVith an
external appearance of severity and harshness, the Arab possesses a
large share of urbanity, and goodness of heart. Trees should not be
estimated by the ruggedness of their bark, but by the sweetness of
the fruit and beauty of their flowers.

The education given to their youth is aljove all others calculated
to produce muscular strength, and an agility peculiarly requisite
for the fatiguing kind of life to which they are destined. AYithout
absolutely thwarting their natural inclinations, parents never
submit to the caprices of their offspring. This has the effect of deve-
loping the faculties at a very early age ; and as he is completely
uninfluenced by the terrors of a parental brow, the Arab youth
generally delivers his sentiments with firmness and courage. He
must speak sensibly, if he wishes to ensure a reply. Treated, in fact,
like a man, he acquires the ambition of deserving it.

The costume of the Bedouins is extremely picturesque : their hair
is very short, and the head sometimes enveloped with a linen band ;
turbans are not worn, and but few make use of caps or sandals. The
principal covering consists of a cloth five or six feet wide, and nine in
length, called an elhaik: this is a species of white woollen cloth,
bearing some resemblance to the Merino manufacture. Although the
haik gives both grace and majesty to the wearer, it must from constant
falling off* the shoulder and interruption in walking, be very inconve-
nient, though custom most probably removes the difficulty with the
Arabs. There is, however, a considerable degree of elegance in the
mode of replacing the haik whenever it becomes deranged : the fre-
quency of this circvimstance renders a band necessary : hence the
scriptural phrase " to have the loins girt." The finer kind of haik

z 2

172 THE BEDOUIX ARAIÌ!«,

are those which the ancients called peplus, which Euripides styled
vestures that trailed alone:, Jind Eschylus cloak descending down
to the feet. It was also no doubt the toga of Rome, as it bears the
strongest resemblance to many of the draperies seen on the statues of
senators, and other citizens of the empire. The Bedouins have
besides an outer mantle, called bernousse : this is composed of one
entire piece, narrow at the neck, and liaving a hood to cover the
head. This cloak is like the pallium of the Romans; and when the
hood is over, may be compared to the cardocucullus of the Gaiils.
Some wear a covering under the haik, not milike the Roman tunic.
The men tie the haik with a cord, which is fastened in the form of a
turban; while the women attach it together by a silver clasp. Nearly
all the Bedouins go barefooted, except in riding, when large boots
are worn. The lower classes generally go with their heads uncovered;
but the rich wear a small scarlet cap, on which is a species of turban,
the order and number of whose folds, as in China, denotes the rank
of the wearer, and whether he is a military man or merchant. This
cap seems to be the tiara of the ancients, and, in fact, many of
their coins bear one exactly like it.

The bands are of wool, and worked with a good deal of taste,
representing various figures and emblems : they are sufficiently long
to go round the waist several times, and answer to the zone of the
Greeks. On going out, the bernousse is thrown carelessly over the
shoulder : should it rain they take it off, and it is not put on again
until the shower is over. The sheich is another cloak worn by the
Bedouins, which reaches down below the knees, and has a much finer
hood than the bernousse. The Arab always carries a cangiar, and
when travelling is furnished with a sword, which is suspended from
the left shoulder ; also a musket, with which he scarcely ever misses
his mark. Notwithstanding the laws of Algiers prohibit any
persons but the Turkish soldiery from bearing arms, the wandering
Bedouin treats them with silent disdain ; and like his Saracen ances-
tors never fails to carry the means of redress about him.

The dress of the Arab females is also composed of a haik,. under

DRESS OF THE FEMALES. IT^i

which a chemise and pantaloons are worn : the upper part of the haik
is converted into a species of sack, for the purpose of carryhig their
youngest children, who always accompany the mother. The head is
covered with a kind of handkerchief, called sarnah: this is very
much interwoven with gold and silver threads. An additional orna-
ment worn with it, consists of a triangular piece of linen, embroidered
and coloured with considerable art, which hangs down the back, and
terminating by the appearance of a lock of hair, has a particularly
graceful effect. It is customary for the Arab women to wear their
hair excessively long, sometimes reaching to the ground; and those,
whom nature has not blest with this mark of beauty, obtain false locks,
which being put into the finest kind of silk net, is agitated in playful
undulation over the shoulders. They are extremely fond of coral and
pearls : in the absence of these, various ornaments, composed of shells
and teeth of fish, are substituted on the neck, ancles, and wrists,
Tatooing is also practised, though not to a very great extent. One of
the most highly esteemed graces of the Arab female, is that of ting-
ing the eyebrows and lids with black lead pulverized : this is still
farther enhanced by drawing several circles round the eye with the
same material : a custom which is, I believe, peculiar to all the savage
tribes of the East, who make use of the idimous sirmet . The circum-
.stance of being on a journey, or occupied in the labours of the field,
never prevents the women from wearing their richest ornaments;
arising either from their not knowing the use of cabinets and cases, oi-
perhaps from vanity ; which, even in their solitary mode of lii'e, seems
to be a quality inherent in their nature. An Arab beauty is thus
described by Hariri and Montannabi, two of their celebrated jioets :
" Her person ought to be slender, like the bending rush, or long
lance of Yemen ; with flanks of such magnitude that they can scarcely
pass the entrance of the tent ; two pomegranates rising on a bosom of
alabaster; eyes, piercing and languid like those of the gazelle;
arched eyebrows, hair black and curling, waving over a neck, as
long as the camel's !" Some of the Bedouin women are as expert in
managing- the barb as the men ; and whenever they find it necessary

174 CULINARY DISCOVERY.

to address the Dey, they display a degree of quickness, courage, and
eloquence, which is really surprising.

The Bedouins eat a great quantity of bread at their meals ; and
would be in a sad plight were they set down at a table in London or
Amsterdam, where one can hardly distinguish the morsel which is
put near his plate. In the cities of Barbary, there are regular bakers
who prepare the bread in ovens ; but amongst the Arabs, no leaven
is used. " Ye shall eat nothing leavened ; in all your habitations
shall ye eat unleavened bread."— Exod. c. xii. ; the flour being simply
mi Ked with water, and when made into cakes, are either roasted on
the fire or put into a pan, called tayen, which is exactly similar both
as to use and fonn to the tagenon of the Greeks and Jews. And as
in Leviticus, that which is baked in the tagenon, is called after it ;
so, amongst the Arabs, the bread is called tayen, from the vessel in
which it is prepared. The paste composed of ground wheat or rice,
which they fry in the tayen, is what we call donzelle, in Tuscany.*
But as we sometimes remain for ages, without arriving at a discovery
which touches immediately on one already made, the Bedouins were,
on my arrival at Algiers, ignorant of the mode in which we mix the
flour and make it unite, so as to fiy it with oil. This in the Florentine
territory is called migliacciuole. It was, therefore, reserved for me
to cross the sea from a distant land, and disseminate a new discoveiy in
Africa ! Its communication was received with the utmost gratitude ;
so much so, that I almost expected to be waited on by a deputation
of the tribes to return thanks, having heard that my name had been
even inscribed as a general benefactor on several palm trees. From
it, also, the savory dish was christened, punantelle ; for which I shall,
no doubt, be rendered famous in Africa, for having given my name to
a palatable cake. Mine will, perhaps, on some futme day, bear an
humble comparison with that of my distinguished countryman, who

* The Italian tourist will, no doubt, be reminded of the immense pan containing
this favourite preparation, which is sold in all the towns of Italy; more particularly at
Rome, Florence, and Genoa. — Ed.

SXJPERSTITIONS. 175

gave his to the American continent. The benefits we render our
fellow creatures, are amply repaid by their gratitude. The incense
nourishes the flame which difliises it around, while the latter serves
to develope the odoriferous perfume.

The custom of eating together, like the heroes of Homer, and
people of Caledonia, in the days of Ossian and Fingal, is amongst
the Arabs an inviolable guarantee of fidelity in keeping their word,
and acting up to promised friendship. When tvvo chiefs meet, the
bows are bent, and attaghans drawn : this is followed by one of each
tribe stepping forward ; they seat themselves : a bowl is then filled
with coffee or milk ; they drink together ; and this simple ceremony
ended, the tribes are united in the closest bonds of friendship. If you sit
down with an Arab, eat bread and salt with him, and receive a verbal
pledge of security ; you may, without further apprehension, go through
the whole country of his tribe.*

The Bedouins are Mahometans, and like the whole of that terri-
ble sect filled with innumerable superstitions of the most extravagant
description : they are loaded with charms and amulets, to prevent the
influence of magic and enchantment ; they have their climacteric num-
ber, which is five, and considered as particularly ominous. " Five in
your eyes," is one of the greatest imprecations : another, not less effi-
cacious in their opinion, is performed by drawing the hand over the
eyes, and pronouncing the word capsa. On sitting down to eat, however,
or at the commencement of any undertaking, they repeat Bismillah,
" in the name of God;" and when the meal is at an end, Allamandillah,
"■ God be praised." On saluting each other, they raise their hand to the
heart, saying, Salum aleikum, "peace be with thee:" this is answered
by Allikum essutum, " peace be also with you." To those of another
persuasion, they merely say, *SV6M/ec/<ai//iand^«Me6 salamet, "friend,
how art thou i" The usual posture assiuned when saluting, is that of

* A curious illustration of this fact will be found in TuUy's Tripoli, Pages 79,
and 80.— AV.

176 OCCUPATIONS OF THE ARABS.

placing the right hand on the breast; and this is a gesture of uncommou
dignity. Amongst very intimate friends and equals, they reciprocally
kiss the forehead and shoulders. The lower classes of society salute
the knees of their superiors as a mark of respect. Whenever they
meet in the desert, they shake hands five or six times, each kissing
his own as often as it has been presented to his fiiend ; who then
attempts to repeat the same ceremony with the others ; but this sign of
submission is rejected, until both parties begin to get tired of saluta-
tion, which is annoying even in the desert : the oldest suffers the other
to kiss his fingers. The better educated generally salute each other's
cheek. During Bairam and other solemn feasts, wives, by the way
of paying a high compliment to husbands, kiss their hands.

The sole occupation of the Arabs is confined to the care of their
flocks, horses, the chace, and war. When called to the field, the wives,
children, and herds follow, in order that the sight of such endearing
objects may excite them to acts of heroism and valour. If they
betray any symptoms of fear, and are vanquished, they are reproved
by their wives in the manner of the Spartan heroines. They have very
few laws, and can do without them, while their wants continue so
Ihnited : presei-ving the same simplicity of manners, they pursue the
unifonn tenor of their past life. Like the Samoides, who when called
upon by the Autocrat of all the Riissias, to assist in compiling an
universal code for the empire, answered, that they did not seek for
laws ; and prayed his imperial majesty to give them to some of their
neighbours who might be more in want of legislative regulations.
]3very one recollects the story of the navigator, who, thrown upon a
desert shore, was alarmed lest he should be devoured by beasts of
prey, but discovering a gibbet upon which a man had been recently
suspended, joyfully exclaimed, " thank Heaven ! I am then amongst
civilized people !"

All the riches of these people consist in their flocks ; besides
which, many of the chiefs keep droves of camels for the transport of
merchandize. They slaughter very few cattle, being satisfied with

MARRIAGES. 177

the wool and milk. The women superintend the bee-hive, and attend
to the 2:ro\vth of the silk-worm ; they also weave stuifs and linen, on
looms arranged for that purpose in the tents: instead of a shuttle,
their fingers are used to pass the thread : after the manner of Penelope,
Andromache, and the matrons of Rome, their task is conducted with
incredible assiduity. Like the daughters of Judea, they go to the
distant wells every evening, to fetch water for the camels, and for
domestic purposes. They are, however, somewhat less accommodating
than Dinah ; for if a stranger addresses them, they instantly let their
veil fall, and thus hide every feature, as Rebecca did on the first sight
of Isaac* If a stranger happens to be passing on the same road, they
sit down with their backs towards him until he is out of sight. They
also grind the corn, having small hand grind-stones for that purpose ;
precisely the machine alluded to by Moses and our Saviour. There is
another mill, yet more portable, which is carried with those who take
long journies. The women make a very good stuff out of camel and
goat's hair : the preparation of morocco leather is also an object of
female industry. The skins are worked down to the texture of paper,
and tinged with various colours, serving a great variety of useful pur-
poses. They make bridles out of one piece : and there are itinerant
jewellers, who manufacture rings and other ornaments for both sexes.
When a young man wishes to marry a Bedouin female, he
declares his intention to her father ; and if approved, is received with
civility : the parent then descants on the merits of his daughter, and
fecundity of her mother, which promises the same inestimable quality
in the child. When once the father's promise is given, he calls
upon the suitor for a certain number of cows and oxen, as a sign of
gratitude tor so meritorious a partner. The intended bridegroom soon

* It is really wonderful to reflect on the undeviating constancy with which the patriar-
chal manners and customs have been transmitted through so many centuries of darkness
and revolution to the present times. So striking is the similitude between all the modes of
living adopted by the Bedouins, that the best description we have of them is little more than
a repetition of what all have read in the beautiful simplicity of the scriptures. — Ed.

A A

178 MARRIAGES.

ai ter conducts the required offering with all due solemnity before the
tent of his future tather-in-law ; who then communicates the proposal
to his daughter, upon which she graciously prepares to receive her
lover. The relatives and friends of the bride are then invitetl, and the
young man being introduced, is asked how much he lias given for his
wiie Ì He replies, that a wise and industrious m oman costs nothing.
After this, all the young virgins of the neighbourhood place the bride
on horseback, and conduct her to the tent of the bridegroom, where
she is immediately presented by the husband's friends with a beverage
composed of milk and honey, as a symbol of the future harmony and
sweetness of their union ; while she drinks, the attendant maidens
sing an epithalamium. The bride then alights, and taking a stake
which is presented to her, she drives it into the earth as far as her
strength will allow ; repeating, " like this stake, which will never
change its position, without force is employed to draw it up, so will I
never abandon my husband, unless it should please him to discard
me."

This ceremony concluded, she is next shewn the flocks which are
destined to be under her future care : these she takes to the adjoining
meadows for some time ; and on her return, another ìjowl of milk is
presented, in Avhich is put a small bit of the husband's tent : while she
drinks, the company sing verses in praise of the parties, and finish by
imploring the blessing of Heaven on their heads, together with the
possession of large flocks and many children. The day being past in
festivity, the friends retire ; leaving the bride in the arms of her
husband.

Contrary to the austere custom of the Moors, the Arab shepherd
is allowed to see the object of his affections some time before marriage ;
and this interval he frequently employs in proving, by various delicate
attentions, the force of his passion. Besides his nightly visit to the
vicinity of her tent, he occasionally salutes her ear with a serenade ;
while in the day-time, the language of the eye only serves to fan the
flame created by his nocturnal assiduities. It is thus that the young

CHARACTER OF THE ARAB. 179

and ardent Bedouin is enableil to enjoy the first of human e^ratifica-
tions, that of selecting a woman of his own choice. Inestimable
blessing ! rarely met with in more civilized society. A female of
great feeling and animation, used to say : "" my father wishes to
marry me to a man of talent; my motlier, to one who cuts a great
figure in the world ; and my uncle to one who is very rich ; but
give me the man whom I can love !"

With all this haj)py freedom of choosing a partner, the young
Bedouins never marry without their parents' entire approbation:
besides, they are more intent on seeking a wife, than on adding to the
number of u.seless admirers. " Why," asks an English writer, " are so
few girls married now-a-days J" Because there are more wlio think of
making nets than cages !

The Arab is modest, serious, and scarcely ever laughs : he tells
you that smiles are only intended by nature to ornament the counte-
nance of women : he speaks with gravity, and not until some
moments after the person he may be conversing with, has ceased.
He is neither fond of jokes nor scandal: thinking the one proceeds
from littleness of mind, and the other a wicked disposition. The joy
of the sage is seen and not heard. AVith all the Arab is neitjier
melancholy, silent, nor sedentary. He is fond of roving, seeing, and
conversing. The crowds and activity observable amongst the tribes is
almost incredible : you meet people constantly coming and going, where
any tribe is established. There are fairs and markets held through-
out the week except on Friday ; and numberless bands of dancers,
conjurors, and mountebanks are always in attendance, servino either
to amuse the people or impose their medicinal quackeries on the
credulity of the multitude.* If an European visits them, it follows of
course tliat he is a doctor, and possesses saphies for the cure of every
disease: these he must immediately set about writing, and when dis-

* As the more decorous mode of passing the Sabbath in this country has not produced
any sensible eifect on our Gallic neighbours, perhaps they may be induced to take a leaf out
of the Arab's book of morality? — Ed.

A A 2

180 ARAB POETS.

tributed to the wondering Arabs, they are instantly suspended round
the neck, and must shortly perform miracles on the credulous patient.

In the gentle uniformity of the pastoral life, with their serene
nights, and tranquil atmosphere, those of a more refined understand-
ing amongst the Arabs, study the arts and sciences ; and poetry is not
forgotten. A good poet is sure of obtaining every distinction : they sing
the battles and tales of love, in heroic and tender strains. The sheiks
and even piinces do not think themselves degraded by attending their
flocks : and while the latter feed, they are employed in composing
verses in praise of a country life ; the tranquillity of pastoral pursuits,
and .serene days experienced by the patriarchs of old, who were
blessed with the approbation and support of Heaven. I heard the
lines of a young bard, which seemed to breathe a considerable degree
of spirit and expression : they related the prowess of an Arab prince,
who had destroyed a fierce giant that had been the terror of his
tribe ; he then described the courage and valour of a Bedouin, who
struck down a furious lion one night, while going to visit a young
female, whose gait was majestic, and eyes more beautiful than those
of the gazelle I

A collection of the finest maxims, and choicest compositions,
are generally learned by heart, and forms a material part in the educa-
tion of an Arab : by which poetry is restored to its natural intention
and original purpo.se ; that of transmitting historical events, celebrat-
ing the actions of the brave, instructing young societies, or those who
have retained their primitive simplicity.

ARAB TRIBES. 181

CHAPTER IX.

Account of the Kabiles and Arab Tribes. — The Himas. — Tents. — Dowers. —
Encampments. —Dascars, or Arab Villages. — The Sheiks. — The Plunder-
ing Arabs. — Anecdotes respecting them.

The Bedouins are divided into many scattered tribes, called
Kabiles, and vulgarly Nege; but it is necessary to distinguish the
wandering Arabs, from those who have a fixed residence. In the
deserts of Persia and Syria, most of the land is susceptible of culti-
vation, and is besides generally well watered ; but neither of these
cases can apply to the arid sands of Africa, where verdure is so
scarce, that their inhabitants are obliged to go in search of it, like
the Calinucks and Tartars. Some tribes, however, remain stationary
for several years : while others, frequently change their position,
paying a small quit rent for the lands they cultivate, or upon which
their flocks are permitted to range. When the families become too
numerous, they separate : one party going to the right, and the other
to the left, like the progeny of Abraham and Lot.* In journeying
from one station to another, three women are carried by each camel,
while the children and young lambs are containedin panniers suspended
on each side, and the fowls roost on the neck and bunch. On these
occasions the males go on foot, for the purpose of keeping together
and directing the flocks, their muskets being hung up to the pummel

* This is another very striking coincidence, between the customs of the Arabs, and
their remote ancestors of the East. " Is not the whole land before thee? Separate thyself,
I pray thee, from me : if thou wilt take the left hand, then I will go to the right ; or if
thou depart to the right hand, then I will go to the left." Genesis, Chap. XIII. — Ed.

182 ATTEMPT TO UNITE THE TRIBES.

of the camel's saddle. It is thus, that an Arab faiuily travels when
in search of a new establishment.

Some of the tribes are both numerous and powerful, such as the
Beni Mezzaab, near the Desert of Angad ; the Psummata, a warlike
tribe towards Mount Atlas; the Gamma, inhabiting the mountains
of Couco ; Beni Abbas, on the great road to Constantina ; and the
Bedouins of the Zaab, who are descended irom the ancient Melano-
getuli. These tribes generally take the names of their original chiefs
or founders, merely adding the word Beni. They frequently form
dilterent camps, all of which place themselves under the direction of
a single emir of their own election : this chief has sometimes as many
as three hundred under his orders.* Such associations are rendered
necessary to defend them from the oppression of the Turks : as, to
avoid insult, they must possess force, which can alone ensure protec-
tion : he who knoMS how to make himself feared, is generally
respected.

Tliere was some years ago, an Arab named Abuferez, of great
courage and intelligence, who attempted to unite all the Kabiles in
the vicinity of Mount Atlas. But, instead of forming a powerful
league, like the Iriquois of America, the Persian Afghans, or
Rohillas of Hindostan, the African Arabs are only intent on making
war upon each other; and the Turks, who are actively employed in
fomenting their quarrels, do not fail to profit by them. When I
asked why they did not form one general alliance under a single
pow erful chief, they informed me, it arose from the apprehension of
their making a tyrant for themselves ; and that it was infinitely better
to suffer temporary vexations, than a state of constant oppression. I
am, however, fully of opinion, that the Bedouins under an intrepid and
fortunate chief, would become an independent, powerful, and happy
people ; as the Drusi and Binnans of the East did, when led on by

•* " Eacb camp has its respective sheik, but the\phi ef of the tribe is entitled El Kiber,
the great sheik." Keatinge, Vol. I. p. 327, where the manners and customs of the Arab
tribes are very ably illustrated. — Ed.

MODE OF LIVING. 18;J

Fac Jardin and Alompia : divided and discordant, their patrimony
can only be weakness and slavery. " We should not," says an
oriental proverb, " separate the sun which lightens and vivifies the
universe into so many fixed stars, that only serve the more to attest
the presence of darkness."

The tents under which the wandering Arabs live, are called Himas,
from the shade they afl^brd ; and Beef el Shaar, meaning houses of
skins and hair. Tliese tents differ in size, and are supported by two
or three poles from eight to ten feet high, and about four inches in
diameter, upon which several hooks are fixed to hang their clothes
and arms on. Thus we see in the story of Judith, that the scymetar
of Holofernes was suspended on the props of his tent. The bed and
entrance is folded, in the same manner we read of in the habitations
of the ancient people of Mesopotamia.

The tents liave a conic form, and seldom exceed ten feet in height :
they are fastened together by thongs cut out of goat's skin, twisted
camel's hair, or slips from the leaves of the palm tree ; and at a little
distance have the appearance of boats reversed. They keep the water
out very well, and are consequently a great refuge in the desert :
though from their dark colour, they are I'ar from pleasing to the eye.
The chief's tent is always placed in the centre of the camp, and has a
greater elevation than the rest ; next to this is the one intended for the
reception of all strangers who may come to demand hospitality or
protection. The camps are generally formed in the shape of a circle or
crescent, and the tents in parallel lines : round the whole, a thorny
hedge-row is planted. Their flocks are, during the night, placed inside
this, while the dogs keep watch outside. One of the tents is left empty to
serve for a mosque: to this the children repair at sun-rise every morn-
ing, in order to recite a prayer which is engraved on a board suspended
from the centre, and aftei-wards they learn their lesson : which is done
with much apparent satisfaction. They then run to embrace their mas-
ter, who does not treat them like a bombastic pedagogue ; but rathey
as his own children. When the Arabs begin to have a large family,

184 HOSPITALITY OF THE BEDOUINS.

tliey provide another tent; and if a son marries, the father is
obliged to give him a certain quantity of cattle and grain, to establish
himself in the neighbourhood : his furniture consists of a portable
mill fomied out of two small pieces of granite, a large basket, and two
or three pans to soak bread in milk, prepare rice, &c.

A stranger is always well received at the tent of an Arab. When-
ever a traveller loses his way in the desert, or is in want of shelter, and
sees towards night, a column of smoke, hears the barking of dogs, or
lambs bleating ; these are sure indications of his being near a Bedouin
camp. Towards them he directs his steps : and on approaching the
pastor's door, it is immediately opened ; and followed up by his receiv-
ing the marabbas, or salutation of peace : he is then presented
with a bowl of milk and basket of grapes, dried figs and dates :
such is the prelude for that night's hospitality. The host soon after,
takes a lamb or kid out of the field, slaughters it with his own hand ;
and when skinned, presents it to his wife, who proceeds to dress
a part, reserving some for the kab-ab, or broil of the next moiTiing :
which is intended for the traveller's breakfast previous to his depar-
ture ; or if he chooses, it is given to refresh him on his joxirney. It
was thus that the three angels were treated who presented themselves
at the Patriarch's tent. " And Abraham ran unto the herd, and fetcht
a calf tender and good, and gave it unto a young man, and he has-
tened to dress it." Gen. xviii.

Upon these occasions, the head of tlie family is invariably the
most officious in his attentions. As it is usually the custom in those
regions for travellers to go bare-footed, or only with sandals, on arriv-
ing at the hospitable Bedouins, their feet are instantly washed, and
ointment presented for the hair ; nor does the host sit down to eat with
his guest, but remains standing- and performing the office of an atten-
dant while he is at table.

It would indeed be extremely difficult to find any people on earth
more truly hospitable than the Arab tribes ; or amongst whom that fine
vÌT*tue, the unequivocal proof of liberal sentiments, is exercised with

ANECDOTE. 185

greater delicacy. An Arab, named Thaleb, had the misfortune of
killing the father of the emir Alcasar in a quarrel : the latter,
inspired by an implacable spirit of revenge, went out in daily search
of the murderer. At length a stranger presented himself and demanded
the rites of hospitality ; Alcasar treated him with the most assiduous
and generous attentions. The following day he went out to pursue the
usual search, and returned in the evening, filled with melancholy at
the ill success of his endeavours. Shortly after, the visitor enquired
the cause of his sadness : when Alcasar declared, that he was looking
for a certain Thaleb, who slew his father. " No longer search for
your enemy ;" replied the stranger, removing a false beard which he
had assumed : " the unhappy Thaleb stands before you !" " Oh,
Heavens I" exclaimed the astonished emir. "Can it be possible?
But you are my guest ; take this purse, fly from my dwelling : and I
will then determine on what ought to be done." Strangers are perfectly
secure in a Bedouin camp ; and if, during the night, any insult is
otfered, the whole tribe is made answerable ; and obliged to make full
and entire reparation. A traveller, in fact, has less to fear in the
midst of this rude people, than when sometimes traversing the most
civilized countries of Europe.

It is not the practice to continue more than one night under the
tent of an Arab. A little discretion is required ; and one cannot well
follow the example of the Abbé who wrote to Voltaire, saying, that
he intended to pass a month at his chateau, without running the risk
of a similar reproof: " you are very unlike Don Quixote : he took inns
for castles; but you take castles for inns!" On parting, it is usual
for the stranger to present his host with a little gun-powder ; which is
highly prized by the Bedouins, for priming. A bit of antimony is
also given to the young girls, to colour their eyebrows and eyelashes ; to
the matron a pair of scissars ; or some pins and needles are equally
acceptable ; being quite a treasure to these people, blest as they are
with scarcely a single want ungratified ! It should, ho%vever, be
obsei-ved, that no donation of any kind is looked for; they merely act

B B

186 POLICE REGULATIONS.

from a. spontaneous generosity and religious feeling, strengthened by
immemorial custom. From the family of an Arab, vieing with each
other in attending to the stranger who takes shelter under their roof,
it is not to be wondered at, if he, on leaving them, feels a sentiment of
regret and affection. Received with the cordiality shewn by Jacob
and Laban to their numerous guests, and reflecting on the extreme
simplicity of an Arab entertainment, an European visitor is apt to
fancy himself .seated in the tent of a patriarch.

When the Arabs have found a spot sufficiently rich to feed their
flocks, and ensure their personal security, the tents are pitched, and
an encampment formed according to the number of families, from
three, to as many hundred tents : these associations or flying camps,
are called Dowars.

It is generally the custom for each tribe to change its position
once a year, in order to afford the ground time to recover from the
preceding one's cultivation. If that has been productive, they return
to it again ; but in every remove it is necessary to have permission from
the Dey of Algiers, to whom all those bordering on, or residing in
his territory, are obliged regularly to pay a yearly tribute, Mhich
amounts to a tenth of all they possess : this requisition is known by
the title of Garam.

The police regulations are extremely judicious, and well adapted
to the Arab's mode of life. Each Dowar is responsible for all the
crimes and misdemeanors committed either in sight of the camp, or
in its immediate vicinity, no matter who the aggressors may be. By
way, however, of mitigating the rigour of this law, the tribe's respon-
sibility ceases with day-light : the impossibility of seeing or preventing
what happens during the night, being very properly considered as a
just cause of exemption from any charge at that time. The night
has BO eyes, according to their emphatic mode of expression : in con-
sequence, therefore, of the difficulty which would naturally attend the
discovery of any violence done in the dark, the Bedouin makes a
point of never setting off on a journey before broad day; and also

PASTORAL MODE OF LIFE. 187

of stopping at sun-set. Occasionally, during- the hours of repose, the
men collect at the sheik's tent, where they pass the time in talking
of their horses, voyages, and various feats in arms. In these soirécSy
the chief, seated on the same skin with the meanest of his tribe, enters
into every subject of conversation with the utmost familiarity. Not-
withstanding this occasional equality, it is to be observed, that the
whole party treat him with a marked homage and respect.

The heads of families mount their horses every evening, and
proceed to an adjoining meadow, where, forming a circle round the
chiefs, ^ grand council is held, at which all the affairs of the Dowar
are freely discussed. The pastoral and warlike simplicity of this
assemblage, with only the canopy of Heaven for a covering, and sur-
rounded by the solitudes of the desert, is said to exhibit a spectacle
full of grandeur and solemnity.

Some of the tribes neither change their place of abode nor live
under tents, but are stationary, inhabiting small villages called
Dascars. These are composed of huts built of turf, or bricks taken
from old ruins, the roofs being formed of straw with a layer of
boughs. The same apartment generally serves for bed-room, stable,
and hall of audience. There is, however, a corner reserved for the
animals; but they often intrude themselves on the family; with whom
they appear to live on terms of the greatest intimacy': so much so,
indeed, that during the night the calves and goats frequently amuse
themselves by walking over the bodies of the sleeping family, or
occasional visitant.

The Dascars are by no means so comfortable as the tents of the
Dowars, nor do their inhabitants enjoy the same degree of abundance
and prosperity. Heie all is filth and wretchedness : and in addition
to the comfortable reflection of being exposed to the inclemency of
the weather, and within the constant hearing of beasts of prey, one is
almost devoured by every kind of vermin, which seem to be quite at
home in these miserable habitations; where innumerable scorpions
are also to be found.

B B 2

188 SIMILARITY TO THK ANCIENTS.

The villages of these people are extremely populous, and during
the recent attack, myriads of them descended from the mountains
south of Algiers, to witness the engagement. They are naturally
much less humanized and generous than the wandering Bedouins:
the latter are continually moving about in search of pasturage, and
live under a serene sky ; while the former are obliged to cultivate the
most arid mountains ; and often residing on their summits, inhabit
the region of tempests.

The African villages are still precisely the same, as they were
described to be in the days of antiquity, when they Avere called Ma-
palia from the Punic word Mapul, signilying fixed habitations :

Miratur moles ^Eneas Mapalia quondam.

And, as in the present day, the people of Numidia, who lived in
tents, were considered as a distinct race from those who resided in
huts or cabins ; in opposition to the latter, the wandering tribes were
called Magalia ; thus according to Silius Italicus :

Qualia Maurus amat dispersa Magalia pastor.
And Lucan,

Et solitus vacuis errare Magalibus afer.

Each tribe maybe considered as a nation ; like those of the American
-savages, and a species of principality having one chief: this officer is
called a sheik ; meaning an elder : he is generally chosen from amongst
the oldest of the tribe : and the most distinguished for maturity of judg-
ment, and the practice of virtue, is he whom the Arabs of the desert
think most worthy of commanding them. These princes, whose
palaces are established wherever their tent is elevated, and carpet
spread, administering justice at the foot of a tree, recall those agree-
able feelings which are associated with a recollection of remote and
happier days,

When tyrant custom had not shackled man.
But free to follow nature was the mode.

Although the Bedouins, like the hordes of Tartary, pursue a

GOVERNMENT AMONGST THE TRIBES. 189

wandering- life, and maintain an apparent state of liberty, the idea o>'
establishing a republican form of government never enters their
thoughts. Being composed of a horde or tribe, a species of army
which requires one directing chief, possessing the supreme will of a
monarch, his power has always been exerci.sed with the greatest
moderation, while despotism was never admitted. The sheik, seeing
his subjects armed, and possessing the power of election, feels the
necessity of consulting their inclinations. One of these princes being
asked if his people were free, answered, " why should they not, if I
as their chief, am so !"

This kind of government is neither elective nor hereditary. There
are some families who have governed for centuries ; but this they owe
to their paternal administration, and to the pleasure which we all feel
in obeying those who endeavour to make us happy. Though the son
generally succeeds his father, there is no specific right to guarantee
such a mode of arriving at power, as both the election and approlja-
tion of the people are necessary before the reins of government are
assumed. Tliey find it an admirable maxim, to let the government
descend in this way from father to son, on condition that the son takes
care to merit the esteem of the people. In this case also, the most
meritorious member of the family is sure to be preferred.

It often happens, that the same tribe has several minor chiefs,
who are under the protection of a more powerful one, called Sheik
el Meiscach ; and it as frequently occurs, that many tribes elect a
supreme head, who receives the title of Sheik el Keeber, or great
master : that of emir, meaning prince, is also common. Leagues are
sometimes formed between different emirs, to defend themselves against
an ambitious prince or foreign oppression.

If the sheik ill-treats his subjects, or is unfaithful to the princi-
ples by which he was called to govern them, neither plots nor revolu-
tions are formed against his person ; but he is quietly abandoned by
the whole tribe; which proceeds to join another, whose chief receives
the new acquisition with open arms, as a sure means of adding to his

190 LOYALTY OF THE BEDOUINS.

power and popularity. The lamentations of the o[)pressed are heard ;
but the voice of sedition is silent : many unite and call for justice ;
but they seldom, except in the last extremity, resort to conspiracy and
tiimult. A Bedouin can never be persuaded to revolt against the
prince, to whom he has sworn fealty and obedience. When the sheik
degrades himself to the level of a tyrant, they merely take their leave
and abandon him to his own reflections. Many have been thus seen,
almost alone in their camp, having lost their whole tribe, in forfeit-
ing those affections, which could have alone ensured their loyalty. I
happened, during my rambles in the vicinity of Algiers, to meet one
of these unfortunate princes : he was alone, and .sitting mournfully
under a tree, with his eyes rivetted to the ground, and strong shame
and dejection depicted in every feature. Not a single subject, or even
friend, remained to sympathize with his forlorn condition. The tribe
which had just withdrawn itself from him, were posted on an adjacent
eminence ; and reminded me of the Roman people assembled on the
sacred mount.*

Whenever it becomes necessaiy to have recourse to arms, the
chief of each tribe assembles all who are capable of taking the field,
who, one after another, offers his best services to the community ;
when the whole body join in one common war song, which is fol-
lowed by immediate preparations for the proposed enterprize. The
utmost similarity is said to exist between the wandering Arab sheiks,
and many of the North American chiefs, bordering on the Lakes of
Canada. Each warrior, besides furnishing two horses and the neces-
sary arms, engages to provide for his own maintenance ; and when
the Arabs of Barbary are called upon to serve, they instantly obey

* Alluding to that curious and interesting event in the history of Rome, where the
populace, seeing the impossibility of obtaining justice from their patrician rulers, deter-
mined to abandon the city ; and for this purpose withdrew to a rising ground, shewn to
this day about two miles outside of the Porto del Popolo. The same thing also hap-
pened, after Virginia's violation by the Decemvir Appius. — Ed.

THE PLUNDERING ARABS. 191

the invitation. Without any pay whatever, they are contented to
rely on their gallantry and exertions for future reward. All are
mounted on unshod horses, which they manage with wonderful dex-
terity. Their chief talents consist in a sudden irruption, or impe-
tuous charge ; and in a warfare of ambush or surprize, they may be
called the Tyrolese and Cossacks of Africa.

In all affairs of importance, the sheik makes a point of con-
voking the head of each tent and family, to whose opinions every
possible deference is paid. When the interests of several tiibes are
discussed, a species of congress is formed : not unlike the great Diet
of the Tartars, each sheik representing his respective subjects, con-
sidering himself rather as the ally than tributary of the Sheik el
Keeber ; who, like the Khan of Tartary, may be regarded as the pre-
sident of a great warlike assembly, being perfectly satisfied if he can
acquire the confidence and esteem of his allies. His opinion, too,
generally prevails ; as all are fully aware of the purity of his inten-
tions. So true it is, that integrity and virtue are the best means of
inspiring public confidence and applause.

Some of the smaller tribes, without tents or cottages, and mounted
on their fiery barbs or swift dromedaries, scour the desert in search of
booty : these are called the plundering Arabs : — assaulting the
caravans, they strip the traveller and immediately disappear. Like
most of the descendants of Ishmael, they make robbery a profession.
The most independent of mortals, their liberty* consists in making
all mankind tributary to their wants and villanies : a maxim which
has not been always confined to the plundering Arabs of the desert.
It was pretty strongly exemplified in the uniform policy of a certain

* Not many years ago, when the system of liberty and equality was first promulgated,
a gentleman hearing some one knock at the door of his anti-chamber, came out before his
toilette was completed, and on letting the stranger in, observed, " pray excuse me for
receiving you with this liberty" i. e. in his chemise !

192 NAPOLEON BUONAPARTE.

nation from 1794, unti! the public opinion of Europe expelled its
leader in 1814.*

Of the plundering tribes, the Sheikies and Ababdes, frequent,
the track to Senaar ; while tho.se of Cubba Beschis and Bedeials,
hover about that of Daufnr: others, near the mountains of Tell and
Desert of Angad, are like the Kundi and Turcomans of Natòlia, and
Lesguis of the Caucasus. The travellers and warriors of the Crusades,
alluded to a nation of assassins, and the celebrated Old Man of the
Mountains, towards the foot of Mount Lebanon.

Barbaiy may also well be called the country of assassins ; but
the Arabs of the desert are certainly not the worst part of its inhabit-
ants : the truly perfidious, are those who live by piracy on the high

* Mr. Pananti is not so lamentably blinded by party zeal, as to admire Buonaparte ;
either because it was his fate to be put down by the allied powers whom he had harassed
in every imaginable shape for above fifteen years, or in consequence of that confinement
on a desolate island, which has been purely the result of his own senseless temerity and
unexampled violence as a sovereign. — No ! divested of this ruinous bane to patriotism and
public virtue, the author, in judging the ex-emperor by his actions alone, could not
possibly reconcile one sentiment of praise with a life which seemed exclusively devoted
to the gratification of vain glory and personal ambition. With all those philosophic
heads, and philanthropic hearts, and they are not a few, with whose opinions I had
an opportunity of becoming acquainted, during a late visit to the continent, Mr. P.
could only regard Napoleon Buonaparte as one, who, possessing the most unlimited
means of becoming truly great, deliberately suffered the golden opportunity to escape,
in the little-minded and extravagant project of making Europe subservient to the insa-
tiable rapacity of a military depotism, such as he fatally succeeded in establishing over
the volatile and inconsiderate people of France. The reiterated plunders and massacres
which marked the sanguinary progress of his armies in Holland, Germany, Russia, the
Tyrol, Italy, and Spain, are not quite so easily forgotten on the continent, as they have
unfortunately been by the mistaken opinion of some people in this country; while military
roads, bridges, and public works, are there considered a very poor compensation for the
annihilation of religion, morals, and civil liberty I — It is of the very first importance to
the temperate and enlightened friends of order and good government, to know that the
great mass of intellectual talent which now irradiates the continental nations, has arisen
and been matured by the tremendous lessons furnished during the last twenty-five years.
These have taught people the dreadful fallacy of indulging in Utopian schemes of humau

ARAB POPULATION, 193

seas, and along the coasts of Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers ; with whom
it is vain to expect either law or justice. On the contrary, those
Arabs who make a trade of plundering, possess some qualities which
tend very materially to soften the iniquity of their callings. Many of
them, in assailing the peaceful traveller, will not acknowledge it as
robbery : they believe themselves to be the natural proprietors of the
desert ; and in taking away the property of others, consider it merely
as a poll tax, such as ships are in the habit of paying in passing the
Sound and Dardanelles. They also believe themselves lineal descend-
ants of Ishmael, who, according to their account, was unjustly dis-
inherited of his patrimony : so that in living upon the public, they
are only occupied in revenging past injuries. Condemned to the

happiness, unsuited to the spirit of the age and progress of civilization. At the same time,
that the errors which lead to popular excesses and ultimate revolution, have been fully
brought before their eyes. This has led to an universal expression of public sentiment in
favour of the representative system, founded upon the long experience of its efficacy in
this country, in reconciling the stability of government with the rational freedom of the
people. The wisest and most intelligent men in Europe, are unequivocally agreed on this
momentous subject ; and upon its adoption, they do not hesitate to say, must inevitably
depend the future repose of the world. Fearfully alive to all those horrors which follow
in the train of re-action and revolution, they look up to their respective sovereigns,
and implore this boon with trembling anxiety, knowing it to be vitally identified with the
security of the one and happiness of the other. And how flattering to the British nation,
is this expression of public feeling on the continent? Witnessing the extraordinary
manner in which we have met and finally overcome difficulties that involved the ruin of
surrounding states, they merely wish for the adoption of that simple form of government
which has enabled us to perform so many apparent miracles. A prey to the most horrible
calamities which war and rapine could inflict for so many years, the people of Germany
and Italy wish to establish a system of government, which shall for ever preclude the pos-
sibility of their return ; and they are decidedly of opinion, that this most desirable end is
only to be obtained by a free and impartial representation of the people, constituted so as
to become the real organ of public opinion. In soliciting the above act of grace and libe-
rality from their respective sovereigns, I am more than satisfied, the continental nations
are actuated by no other desire, than that of promoting the only true basis upon which, in
an enlightened age, legitimate governments can be securely and permanently established.
—Ed.

C C

194 HOSPITALITY OP THE ROBBERS.

dreary possession of the desert, the plundering tribe consider it as no
more than a just retaliation to spoliate those who have usurped the
cultivated lands.

They, however, rob without murdering ; and if acts of violence
take place, and lives are lost, it always arises from resistance on the
part of the caravans, who refuse to pay the required tribute. Should
they succeed in escaping its payment, the next that passes, if less
powerful, is obliged to pay for them : it being a settled maxim with
these free-booters, that no circumstances are to interfere with the total
amount of their annual revenues. With all the marauding qualities
of these people, they possess a species of moral principle, which
renders them extremely tractable on some occasions : — although ever
on the alert to plunder the rich merchant, they are equally ready to
assist the distressed pilgrim.*

When an Arab receives any one for the night, he is placed on
the skin which serves the host as a bed : here the stranger is in per-
fect security ; and as obsei-ved in another place, the simple ceremony
of eating bread and salt with any of the tribes, guarantees you
•against the whole. A traveller who receives a boy, or young virgin
for his guide, may pass in the greatest safety, and has nothing to fear ;

* There was once a famous chief of banditti in the Calabrias, called Augiolino del
Duca, who combined his predatory system with numerous acts of charity. One day
observing a poor countryman, who seemed to be in great tribulation, he enquired what
was the cause of his uneasiness ; when the peasant informed him, that his landlord was
coming the next day, with the officers of justice, to drive him from his farm, in conse-
quence of being in arrears for rent. How much do you owe him? asked Angiolino ;
six hundred ducats, was the reply. I will lend you that sura, rejoined the robber ; and
immediately put it into his hands ; after which he departed. The inexorable baron soon
arrived, and was about to put his threat into execution, when, to his no small surprize,
the tenant produced his rent; upon which his landlord went off perfectly reconciled, and
highly pleased with the result of his journey. Having approached near a wood that lay
on the road, the wily chief rushed forth accompanied by his followers, and was not long
recovering something more than his six hundred ducats : thus settling the accounts of all
the parties!

HONOUR AMONG THIEVES. 195

purity and innocence being held sacred even in these desolate regions.
You may also enter the tents of those very men, by whom you have
been recently robbed. They even affect to feel an interest blended
with pity for your misfortunes, often in the course of your narrative,
repeating-, God is merciful! Another dress is thrown over the unfor-
tunate traveller, while his own is seen hanging up on the next hook !
and he takes his leave, covered with the benedictions of those very
robbers who may be destined to plunder him the following day ! — Such
is the systematic order of robbery in the desert. When a traveller is
surprized, with treasures in his possession, the son of Agar's son
must have his proportion ; — it not being consonant to justice, ac-
cording to their ideas, that one man should be rich and another
poor.

Thieves have, in every age, been distinguished for the utmost
equity as far as words go. They do not tell you to proceed and rob,
but to go and gain. Many who have for years successfully followed
up the trade of picking pockets, are now-a-days suffered to be
quietly at large, to glory in the plundered wealth of the community ;
while a still greater number, who have been enriched by the rapacity
of war, return with the blood of their slaughtered enemies, yet
reeking, and proudly boast of having performed their duty ! By far the
greatest robbers do not, in fact, say, let us go to invade and conquer,
but for the laudable purpose of avenging our injured rights !

c c 2

19CJ DESCRIPTION OP THE MOORS

CHAPTER X

Description of the Moors. — Their Figure and Character. — Male and Female
Costume. — Head Dress and Toilet. — Habitations. — Particular Manners
and Customs. — Marriages amongst the Moors.— Funerals. — Condition of
Widows, ófc.

The Moors, who compose a very Jarge proportion of the population
of Barbary, are far I'rom being the most amiable : there is something
harsh and ominous in their physiognomy, extremely repulsive to an
European.

The excesses in which they are so apt to indulge, enervates
their body, and destroys their courage. That blood which ' is
impoverished by dissoluteness, seldom gives much animation to the
possessor : their limbs are rather slender and well-shaped, but they
have generally more agility than vigour ; and are better adapted for
pedestrian exercise than the labours of agriculture. They have tine
eyes, and good teeth; together with tolerably regular features; but
their countenance is never enlivened by a noble thought, or generous
sentiment : it rather expresses the tire of ardent and gloomy passion.
In them the eye seldom beams forth that softness and placidity which
distinguish a fine soul. A quivering lip, the emblem of disdain and
falsehood, is more often seen. Theirs is the smile of death ; and it is
perhaps the risible faculty, which is, above all others, most calculated
to betray the internal operations of the human mind.

They are amazingly patient under pain and suffering. The man-
ner in which a Moor bears punishment, I will not compare to stoical
firmness, but it is the cold ferocity of a savage. While nailed to a

AVARICE OF THE MOORS. 107

pillar by the ears and feet, one of these people has been known tran-
quilly to call lor a pipe ! Another, whose hand is chopped off, will
take it up and run away. They are endowed with excellent memories;
but it only serves to make them remember old offences, and perpetuate
animosities. Their spirit and penetration is also employed for the
purposes of pertidy and treason. The Moor's predominant passion
consists in the gratification of sensual appetite, avarice, and ambi-
tion : witliout public spectacles, society, or a love of study, he
furiously throws himself into a seaof voluptuousness and debauchery.
His avarice too, is incredible : amongst a variety of proverbs, strongly
characteristic of these people, there is one which says, " vinegar that
is given, is preferable to honey which is bought;" and, " a Moor will
allow an eye to be taken from him. to get at a crown piece !" The
less, however, they can shew their riches, the less they enjoy them :
so that they are mostly intent on accumulating. There is scarcely à
single father of a family who dies without leaving a treasure to his son.
This is certainly some little excuse in their favour. In the course of those
continuetl acts of violence, to which they are subjected by the govern-
ment, confiscation and death is ever present to their eyes : it is therefore
always convenient to have wherewithal, not ordy to secure their per-
sonal retreat, but to leave behind the means of supporting their family:
this gives rise to the universal practice of burying large sums of specie
under ground ; and is also a good reason why those who have most
hard cash, are considered the richest. As might naturally be expected,
this insatiable thirst of gold, renders the Moor cunning, hypocritical,
and false to his promises. They abhor strangers, the descendants of
those who were driven from Spain, they have retained the same fero-
cious hatred towards other sects. They are also persecutors amongst
themselves : families are divided and societies disturbed : mixing but
little with each other, they are full of diffidence and egotism. Living
under the worst of tyrannies, they are vile and trembling : nor do
they hesitate descending to every species of humiliation, whenever
any thing is to be got by it. With equals, they use a vulgar familia-

198 DEPRAVITY OP THE MOORS.

rity, andare neither brave nor generous. The natural ferocity of their
character is not tempered by any of that noble intrepidity which
distinguishes some savage nations. The Moor acts from a sudden
impulse or violent transport ; which they call fantasy ; in other words,
caprice or phrenzy : during the operation of which, they are capable of
the greatest excesses — revenge seeins to ferment in their hearts, while
their natural element is hatred.

From a state of high civilization, the 3Ioors have fallen into a
barbarism, worse than they were proljably ever in before. They are
like old wine, of which nothing is left but the dregs ; and have all
the vices, without any of the Arab's virtues : in fact, their character
combines the blind superstition of the blacks, with the impetuous
passions of the Saracens.

Nothing can be more singular than this baleful activity of the
Moors, in the midst of their sedentary, etfeminate, and unoccupied
life ; in which indolence and inditference appear, at first sight, to be
the prevailing impetus: particularly, as it relates to the inju.stice
and severity of their government ; but the former may be compared
to a hidden volcano, which only requires the operation of nature
to bring it into action. If the Moor can be said to possess one
.solitary virtue, it will be found rather in the justice of his notions,
than the rectitude of his heart. They are said to perfonn some good
actions, such as giving much away in charity ; but to sensibility,
they are total strangers : they will assist an idle mendicant, but they
are incapable of soothing an oppressed spirit, or mingling their tears
with those of an unfortunate fellow creature. Hardened by the dogma
of fatalism, to be afflicted at the miseries of another, or shed a tear for
his sorrows, is by the inexorable Moor, regarded as weak, and even
criminal. While, however, they are so eminently false and deceitful,
they contrive to assume an air of openness, always speaking with
affected sincerity and candour. Whenever any argument arises, wherein
their moral rectitude is called in question, they address the Christian
in i\\e\r Lingua Franca, 3Ii andar dritto, ti andar torto ; mi nonpar-

PARASITES. 199

lare che quel che sentire ; mi avere in bocca quello che aver nello cuore !
Men are said to be sometimes known by trifles : there have been per-
sons too, who fancied they could tell a man's character from the style
of his hand-writing, the way in which he walked, or some particulai-
gestures and movements : — others, carrying the refinement still farther,
supposed that important inferences may be drawn from the letter of
the alphabet a person pronounces in laughing. But the most inge-
nious remark I have heard of in this way, was that of M. Neckar, on
the phrases which he calls parasites, peculiar to most people ; and
constantly repeated by them in conversation. He has very shrewdly
observed, that the speaker has generally a totally different meaning
in view, from that endeavoured to be communicated by his favourite
expression ; because he who is aware of his defect or weak siae, makes
use of it more frequently than any other ; not only for the purpose of
deceiving others, but also himself — as people endeavour to conceal
bodily deformity.

The experience furnished by a knowledge of most men of
depraved characters, proves the entire justice of this remark. —
The I'alse and designing will always tell you, — " I speak with my
usual candour on such occasions." — The eternal talker, continually
repeats — " one nord more and I hare done!" The miser who would
suffer himself to be skinned for a farthing, says, — " My dear friend,
you know this is not my money !" The man who is made up of
ceremony and etiquette, will say, — "Sans compUmens ; I hate cere-
mony !" He who aimoys you with his ceaseless nonsense, says, —
''lam sorry to be troublesome:' The croaker informs us, "that
things cannot possibly be worse than they are !" He who sutFers the
whole world to tiifle with and insult him, vociferates — " I am a man
of character, and no one shall insult me with impunity " The cre-
dulous dupe,—" No ! JVo ! I am not to be taken in quite so easily as

you imagine!" A man whose heart is like ice, is sure to say,

•' I know I have too much feeling ;" and the pander calls every one
his " veì-ì/ dear friend!" While the Moors betray and deceive.

•200 MOORISH COSTUME.

they squeeze your hand ; wishing to appear all honey, and that their
hearts are formed in the tenderest mould. But, beware of that mask
which discloses too much of the visage !

Some have observed, that in proportion to the neatness and
cleanly appearance of any nation, we may judge of the degree of
civilization to which they have arrived. If the Moors conformed to
the precepts of Mahomet, they would, as far as this criterion goes,
be the most cultivated people on earth ; but they are very far from
doing so, with regard to their personal cleanliness and general mode
of dress. Although their heads are shaved, a high value is set on
the beard, which they are always smoothing down and dividing with
the greatest care and gravity. A small lock of hair is also left on the
top of the head. The dress of the great consists in the caftan ; a
long robe reaching down below the knee ; over this there is a jacket
richly embroidered with gold and silver, long trowsers, and a black
or white bernousse ; together with yellow and red boots or slippers.
The band for their loins is generally very long, and they seldom
wear stockings. The head is bound round with several fine veils.
Those who are desirous of being thought very wise and dignified,
take particular pains to exhibit a flaming head-dress ; for the higher
a man's rank is, the more clothes he puts on. They are respected in
proportion to the number of dresses they can conveniently carry;
and these are sometimes so numerous, as to preclude the possibility
of their having a free use of their limbs. This part of the
Moorish manners has no small share in contributing to their apathy
and indolence ; while the only advantage they derive from it, is an
appearance of stupid gravity without effect or meaning : yet they are
perfectly satisfied if it inspires a little more respect in the multitude.
Those who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca, called El Hatech,
are exclusively allowed to wear a turban ; the rest cover their heads
with red caps and twisted veils, as above noticed.

There is great simplicity of dress observed at Fez and Morocco,
while the utmost luxury prevails amongst the Algerines and

DRESS OF MOORISH FEMALES. 201

Tunisians, whose women are covered with ja^old and jewels. In
despotic countries like these, where revolutions and the consequent fall
of great men are so frequent, and where the tyrant can at any moment
possess himself of every thing-, it is a favourite policy to enrich the
women, because their property by the Mahometan laws cannot be touched.

The Moorish females in this country wear cloth in winter, and
silk in summer: their robes, caWedjubas, are made like tunics, being
entirely covered with the richest embroidery, and thickly garnished
with precious stones. Various colours are selected for the j ubas, so
that one side is sometimes yellow, and the other blue : a fashion which
pleases the Barbary belles exceedingly. They also wear beautifully
worked slippers; and on the head, a cap called coìi/ìl, which is
fancifully tied on with a handkerchief Rich bracelets are worn on
the wrists, and large gold rings ornament the ancles : — the ear-rings
are also of the most splendid description. These being in the form of
a crescent, are often five inches at least in circumference, and nearly
as large as the little finger.

In order to accustom the ladies to such lieavy ear-rings, after the
ear has been perforated, a small roll of paper is introduced every day
until a date stone can pass ; it is then large enough to receive the
ring. Over the caftan, a crimson velvet band, having a gold or silver
border, is worn ; and when travelling, they are shaded from the sun
by large straw hats. One day in each week, the women visit the
public bath, when it is customary to dress themselves out in the
greatest splendor. — On these occasions they put on a large vest,
richly embroidered with gold ; and over the breast, a caftan of fine
cloth or velvet, which is tied behind ; and the ends of it hanging
down to the middle, with a profusion of curling tresses, presents a verv
fine eiFect. Some wear a ribbon embroidered with gold, and studded
with pearls: — this goes round the forehead, like a diadem. The
Moors feel flattered in displaying to their neighbouring friends, the
opulence and luxury manifested in the magnificent costume of their
wives and concubines, while taking the air on the terraces.

D D

•202 CONTRAST TO EUROPEANS.

The ceremony of dressing, occupies a Moorish lady nearly all
day. When one of rank goes to the toilet, she is attended by several
female slaves, all of whom are occupied in their respective depart-
ments : one tinges the eye-brows, another combs the hair ; while a
third prepares the veils, a fourth scatters otto of roses over her clothes
and person. Above all, the arrangement of the hair is the principal
concern : it is divided into two separate tresses, these are protuseiy
scented and then powdered with ground cloves. The hair of a Moorish
Venus, together with its gold chains and other ornaments, sometimes
give such a size to the whole coiffure, that it is with extreme difficulty
.she is able to move.

When the females pay visits, they are wrapped up in a haik,
which covers the whole body, and is so arranged about the head, as to
be removeable at pleasure ; and enable them to see without being
seen. While on the terrace, the Christian is enabled occasionally to
see the forbidden fruit : but in the streets, the Moorish woman is
merely a moving mass, without either .shape or feature.

What a striking contrast is here exhibited to European modes,
which almost approach to a state of nudity, and invite colds
and consumptions, which often lead the credulous votaries of
fashion to an untimely grave. The first care of a provincial
lady who arrives in London, is to call in a dashing dress-maker :
the latter's appearance is sure to bring forth an appropriate disser-
tation on the awkward costume of the country. Address-
ing herself more immediately to the new customer, she exclaims:
" For Heaven's sake, ma'am, take off those sprawling long gloves :
nature intended these soft and delicate arms of yours to be seen, and
not concealed in this clumsy manner. Away with that veil, which
besides hiding a beautiful pair of black eyes, will make people think
you are ashamed of your rosy cheeks. Laud, what a number of
petticoats! Why you look more like a woolpack, than one of our
light and frisky town lasses. Fashions like those were never known
since the days of Queen Bess : one garment, and that of the slightest

MOORISH HABITATIONS. 203

gauze reaching- a little below the knees, is quite enough now-a-days!"
Having brought the novice into her liberal ideas on the subject of
dress, and reduced her superfluous drapery to the prevailing standard,
the interview closes with a flattering panegyric on the graceful figure,
and fascinating air of her new pupil. " Now, indeed, you are some-
thing like the mark! Now one can see a little of your shape; and
take my word for it, you are not five minutes on the Mall, before a
host of admirers will follow with eagerness to watch your majestic
gait, and revel in the piercing glances of your eye."

The Moorish habitations, though generally neat, and sometimes
even magnificent in their interior arrangement, have externally a
very forbidding aspect; owing no less to their total want of ornament,
than to the circumstance of there being no windows towards the street.
All have a square court in the centre, surrounded by columns, and a
door on each side leads to four spacious apartments. The roofs are
flat, serving the useful purposes of receiving the rain water, which
descends from thence into cisterns, drying linen, and taking the air.
The harem is always in the rearof the building, and instead of windows
in fVont, there is merely a grated balcony, to which the family can
only have access during a zeenak or solemn festival. The houses are
rather low, never exceeding two stories. There is usually a fountain
playing in the court-yard; and the floors are mostly composed of
marble slabs, imported for that puqiose fiom Italy. Both these addi-
tions to the houses in Barbary, are great sources of convenience, in
so warm a climate. Near the females' apartments, sacred to all but
the husband, are the snlemok, or rooms appropriated to the males;
the master, his sons, and domestics, having all separate chambers.
The victuals are prepared in small earthen stoves, which are placed
in the court: these, neatly whitewashed, and terminating in little
cupolas, give a very graceful efl'ect to each angle of the dwelling.
The extreme similarity between the houses of Barbary, and those of
Herculaneum and Pompeii, has often excited the astonishment of
travellers.

Independent of the cooling promenade aflx)rded by the terrace, it
D d2

204 FURNITURE OF THEIR HOUSES.

frequently becomes the scene of mirth and festivity ; ladders are also
kept, by means of which, neighbours are enabled to visit each other
without the necessity of descending into the street. The law of
Algiers obliges each housekeeper to white-wash his dwelling once a
year : as this regulation extends to the interior as well as the outside
walls, it not only contributes ver}^ materially to general health, but
gives a constant appearance of cleanliness to the buildings. It
is truly singular, that with such indifterence to personal comfort,
the Moors should be so very scrupulous about that of their houses,
into the apartments of which they do not even enter without taking
off their slippers!

With all their attention to internal convenience, there is never
an unnecessary display of luxury in the furniture of a Moorish
habitation : a French clock, two or three looking-glasses, a few
rich carpets, some beds or sofas in each comer of the room, cushions
along the sides, and light curtains to the windows, which look into
the court-yard; are all that is required to furnish a house in Al-
giers. The walls have neat cornices, upon which various Arabic
characters are sculptured; they have also a method of varnishing
the tiles as in Holland; which I am inclined to believe is origi-
nally of Arabic invention. The beds consist of hard mattrasses, and
feather pillows : these are merely laid on a mat, and rolled up every
morning. Some, however, make a practice of using their bed as a
sofa during the day : as in the Arab's tents, the Moor's wardrobe is
hung up on hooks round the apartment in which he sleeps. Stran-
gers are received in a small closet at the entrance of the house, where
the master usually transacts all his business. In very hot weather,
he is seated outside the door on a mat, where tho.se who come to
see him, either for ceremony or otherwise, are also invited to sit
down. But the natural jealousy of a Moor will scarcely ever
induce him to admit any one, except the members of his own
family to enter those apartments which are nearest the harem.*

* During my visits to Tunis I was more fortunate, and had the distinguished honor
«f being very frequently invited to Moorish houses, particularly that of Mahomed Coggia,

CUSTOMS SIMILAR TO THOSE OF SPAIN. 200

In the cultivation of their land, the Moors have a plough like that
used in the .south ofSpain, in which there is no iron; they have also the
same kind of cars with wheels cut outof one solid block of wood. The
country people bring fruit, vegetables, straw, and other materials to
market in a kind of net, which is thrown over their camel or horse's
back. It is remarkable how much Spanish customs resemble those of
Barbary, while the latter are in numerous instances very similar to
others in Spain.*

where I have often dined téie à téle with his excellency. On the.se occasions he sat on the
floor, while I was indulged with a velvet cushion. The table, which was only large
enough to contain one dish at a time, was elevated about eighteen inches from the ground.
After the ceremony of washing the hands, cuscousu was brought in, and on being
removed, was followed in rapid succession by seven or eight more very savoury dishes.
Although a knife and fork were usually laid for me, I determined not to forget the old
maxim, and invariably substituted my fingers! By the way of recompensing this proof of
condescension, a bottle of excellent claret was regularly placed at my side. When asked
to visit his country house, 1 generally met three or four of his friends; where the repast,
with the exception of fried mullet just taken at the Goletta, did not differ much from the
above; and wine was equally abundant. In the town house, I recollect we had to pass by
the door of the harem, in which there was a small grated aperture; but a loud warning
on entering the house gave the ladies time to retire. Had I not been so impressed and
absorbed by the political importance of what was passing in Barbary, when stationed at
Tripoly and Tunis ; and even seriously thought of publishing an account of those regen-
-cies, it was difficult for any one to have had a better opportunity of detailing their
manners and customs than myself: and I have since regretted not entering more minutely
into the subject. My opinion of Mahomed Coggia will be found in the second volume
of my Letters from the Mediterranean, p. 220. It has heen since gratifying to find, that I
did not over-rate his talents and virtues, which are certainly great for a Mahometan: having
continued to enjoy the highest dignities in Tunis, ever since I left it in 1811: not by those
fawning and versatile qualities which sometimes lead to power, but a steady and consis-
tent discharge of public duty. — Ed.

* For some very ingenious remarks on the national character of Spain, and those
peculiarities which make it so totally diiferent from the rest of Europe, the reader is
referred to the Abbé de Pradt's interesting M&moires on the late contest of Buonaparte,
to subjugate the people of that country. In p. 168, of the Abbe's book, he shrewdly
observes: " C'est une erreur de la geographic que d' avoir attribué I'Espagne à l'Europe ;
elle appartient à 1' Afrique: Sang, moeurs, langage, manière de.vivre et de combattre, en
Espagne tout est Africain." — Ed.

•206 CURIOUS PENSIONER.

Allien a Moorisli lady goes into the country, slie is enclosed in a
species of cage or pavilion made of osier twigs, and surrounded with
an extremely fine gauze, through which the air freely circulates, and
she can see those who are outside, without the latter's being allowed
the same privilege with regard to her. This curious vehicle, gene-
rally large enough to carry two females, is seemed on a horse or camel,
and a slave usually employed as conductor.

There are veiy few mendicants to be seen in Barbary : the reli-
gious obligations on Mussulmen to be charitable, no less than their
apparent inclination to give alms, together with the natural abun-
dance of the soil, all unite to preclude the possibility of much indi-
vidual misery. In bestowing charity on a Moor, one should, however,
be carefiil like themselves, to make no promises of future relief; other-
wise, nothing less than all you possess will satisfy the avidity of an
African beggar, as past favours are, with him, only a prelude to his
soliciting others. Every time a poor man dines at your table, he
thinks his company necessary on the following day; and if you make
a present, its frequent repetition is considered as a right, which the
importunate mendicant will expect to receive from your heirs and
successors : if once charitable, you must be always so.

A Greek merchant having given a handsome donation to a
cripple, whom he observed lying in the street; the latter followed on
his crutches to heap blessings on his benefactor : placing himself on
the spot near which the merchant used to pass, he received something
for several succeeding days. No sooner had these reiterated proofs
of generosity gone abroad, than all united in applauding the Greek's
munificence, and prayers were offered up for the success of his under-
takings. He was soon after obliged to make a journey into Egypt,
the mendicant continued regularly to appear at his post, and when-
ever the merchant's domestic passed, he was sure to enquire after his
master, and with uplifted hands, repeated a prayer for his safe
return. After a few months this wished for event took place, to the
no small joy of the beggar; and on seeing him, the merchant, anxious

JUSTICE. 207

to reward his apparent satisfaction, and many felicitations, was
preparing to give him another proof of benevolence; upon this,
the mendicant looked at him, but refused his proffered gift, at
the same time observing, that it would be much better to pay
up all the arrears at once. To tliis unlocked for appeal, the
Greek naturally replied, that he did not understand him. The
beggar then informed him, that having been absent six months, his
former allowance of a real per day, now amounted to one hundred
and eighty, which sum he claimed as a lawful debt ! The astonished
Greek was at a loss, whether he ought to laugh at, or chastise this
matchless piece of impudence, and departed; but the beggar lost no
time in having recourse to the Dey, to whom he stated, that for a
whole month previous to the Greek's quitting Algiers for Egypt, he
received a real every day from him in charity ; and had, ever since,
prayed for his health and prosperity: the consequence of which was,
that the merchant's speculations had all been crowned with complete
success ; that having been accustomed to receive his real every morn-
ing, he left off work : and on the Greek's quitting Algiers, without
any intimation of discontinuing the allowance, he had ever since
attended in the same place, to enquire after his health, and implore
Heaven for his happy return ; and, relying on the liberality he had
already experienced at the merchant's hands, he had even contracted
debts for his maintenance. The Greek did not deny the fact of his
giving the alms before he left the city, but contended for its having
been merely an act of discretionary charity. The affair was, however,
seriously examined and discussed i)y his highness: it concluded,
by the merchant's being not only obliged to pay the hundred
and eighty reals, but an additional piastre, for reproaching the beggar
with the unreasonableness of his demand : he was then permitted to
declare his determination not to continue this kind of pension any
longer !

Inferiors, on approaching the great, kiss their hand, while equals
embrace : the Moor generally swears by the laws, — mosque, his

•208 WEALTH CONSTITUTES RESPECTAHILITV.

beard, and the prophet 'shead. Rank derived from birth is never much con-
sidered under despotic governments, like tliose of Barbary. AVhere all
personal dignity and splendor arises from the post a man occupies, the
sole distinction is that of being in place ; and this is so identified \/ith
the nature of the office, that it very seldom extends to the individual :
so that the highest situations do not add to the rank or pre-eminence
of the person's family, who may happen to occupy them for the time
being. Under absolute and capricious rulers, there can only be
imperceptible gradations of rank between the governed, as its imme-
diate creation and fall entirely depends on the prejudice and caprice
of a single person. This is one of the reasons why genealogy is con-
sidered as a matter of perfect indifference in this countr3^

Without the father's name, which they are in the habit of adding
to their own, it is probable, many would not know by what epithet
he ought to be distinguished in the world : in match-making, and the
formation of all family connection, the extent of fortune and degree of
favour enjoyed at the Dey's palace, is all that people consider. A
Cadi does not hesitate to give his daughter in marriage to an artizan,
provided it appears to suit his worldly interests. The 3Ioors fre-
quently add the name of the town or place they were born in to their
own, as : Abu, Salech, Aly, Mahomed, El Basri, ^-c. If to these-
be added their titles and dignities, together with the many virtues
which adorn them in their own opinion, not forgetting sanctity of
manners, to which a Mahometan of the Moorish tribe seldom forgets
to lay in his claim, they would be little inferior to those of the Spanish
nobles, to whom the people of northern Africa are justly compared
in various other particulars.

The manners and customs of Barbary do not, upon the v hole,
present a very wide field to excite the curiosity or enquiry of tra-
vellers ; and besides the great difficulty of becoming intime tely
acquainted with them through the accidental opportunities v liich
occasionally present themselves, in all that relates to social life,

MARRIAGES. -209

the Koran has given a character of the ntinost uniformity to the cus-
toms and modes of living in Mahometan countries.

Altliough often betrothed in their earliest infancy', the marriages
in Barbary are not celebrated until the age of twelve or thirteen ; at
which period, according to one of their poets, — " The rose-bud
expands, to imbibe the vivitying rays of love."

When the fathers of the intended couple agree on a match, a
meeting takes place between the families of both, when the conditions
of the marriage are mutually settled. The Moors of the mountainous
districts in Algiers, follow the practice of the Nasamones on those
occasions, that of the bridegroom's holding the cup to the lips of his
intended, while she performs the same office to him.* To this is
added a promise of reciprocal fidelity : little more than the above is
necessary to tie the matrimonial knot in Barbary. The parent cedes
his child to the absolute controlli and possession of her husband :
and as to the dowry, which fonns so important a concern in our choice
of a partner, it is scarcely spoken of amongst the Moors. The brides
of this country have rarely any thing more than their wardrobes, a
few diamonds, and some mattrasses ; all of which being packed on a
camel, is paraded alx>ut the city in great pomp, previous to their
entering the dwelling of their future master.

It very seldom happens that two young people are consulted as
to their mutual inclinations before a marriage is decided on by the
parents ; and there have been frequent instances in which they never
saw each other until the wedding-day. The bridegroom has no
other means of a.scertaining the beauty or attractions of his intended
wife, than by enlisting some cunning old female in his cause : she is
enabled to visit the bride at home, and also to meet her at the bath.
Upon these occasions, the emissary is generally charged with a tender
message, and rich bouquet of roses. The lover is besides very atten-

* I have frequently seen this curious species of endearment practised amongst the
Spanish peasantry : nor is it altogether unknown in the higher walks of life. — £d.

E E

210 MARRIAGES.

tive in observing his fair one, as she goes to the mosque ; drawing the
most important inferences of manners and character from her mode of
walking, and various other gestures while abroad. This method of
studying the human mind, is carried very far in Barbary, and gene-
rally leads to some very accurate conclusions.

A great female sovereign of the north, wishing to marry her son
to one of three daughters, the ollspring of a German princess, invited
all of them to her court for the purpose of making the choice herself.
Happening to be at the window of her palace when the visitors
arrived, she had an opportunity of seeing the three sisters alight
from their carnage, the eldest, by a false step, got her clothes
entangled, and fell ; the second descended with an air of un-
affected ease and dignity ; while the third sprang to the ground
without touching the vehicle, and seemed to fly up the stairs which
led to the vestibule. The first who attempted to alight, was con-
sidered by her majesty, as uniting very little activity, with great
aAvkwardness of manner; the youngest she thought too lively and
volatile : she therefore selected the second, from whose method of
leaving the carriage, grace appeared to be combined with gentleness
and decorum : nor had she afterwards any cause to regret her choice.

The passions inspired by this fugitive mode of merely seeing each
other for a moment, and then disappearing, often become extremely
violent. "Love," says an African poet, "which increases by slow
degrees, passes from the eyes to the heart, as the water of fountains
descends into rivers; while that passion which is awakened by the first
sight of a beautiful object, may be compared to those torrents which
are precipitated from the mountains where no rain has fallen."

A few days before the marriage is celebrated, the bridegroom
rides about the town to the sound of drums and fifes, and a number
of friends accompany him ; some carrying banners, and others occa-
sionally discharging their muskets into the air. On tlic wedding-day
he takes another round, at which still greater ceremony is observed.
On this occasion he is better attended, and covered by a red cloak.

MARRIAGE». 211

with a fine sabre hung- at his side. There is also a veil thrown
over his face to prevent the operation of the evil eye. Three days
previous to the celebration, the bride is conducted to the bath, which
is repeated every succeeding one, until the marriage takes place : on
that occasion, all the relatives and friends being assembled, the hus-
band repeats a prayer before them, and then proceeds to join the bride,
who is in her apartment : they are now declared man and wife by
means of certain forms of prayer which are recited by the husband,
and Imans, who are in attendance. After this all the company,
except the bride's mother or next relatives, retire ; upon which the
lady appears, with her face uncovered to her husband, for the first
time, in the presence of those persons who remain behind to witness
the last ceremony of their union. Having feasted his eyes for a
little time, the bridegroom withdraws to his own house ; and about
nine in the evening, the whole of those who were present at the
marriage, accompany the bride to her husband's dwelling. The
lady's father is alone absent on this occasion ; it being thought inde-
corous for him to appear at this last assemblage of the happy couple's
friends. However short the distance to the bridegroom's house, the
bride is conducted there on horseback, but enclosed in a pavilion,
such as that already described. Several lig^hted torches precede and
follow the cavalcade ; and on being introduced by her relatives, great
care is taken that she does not touch the threshold of her husband's
door, — that being considered as a bad omen. On the bridegroom
coming down to receive her at the door, the whole party take their
leave, with the exception of a few females, who remain to officiate
as bridal nymphs. These contrive to amuse the bride with various,
love tales, while un<lressing her; and that done, conclude by an
amorous ditty in praise of matrimony, &c.

As amongst the ruder nations of southern Africa, the proofs of
virginity are also carried about the city in triumph. This is so
essential in Barbary, that when not clearly ascertained, the bride-
groom is not only at liberty to send the lady back to her father, but
E E 2

212 CÓiSDlTlON OP WIDOWS.

the latter is covered with shame. Tor having so badly superintended
the honor of his daughter.

When a Moor dies, his favourite wife inherits a third of his pro-
perty: if she dies tirsi, a similar privilege is enjoyed by the husband :
but during their lives, the property of each is not common to both.
On the death of a father, the legitimate offspring receive an equal
proportion, while the children of concubines only come in for a fourth.
Males are supported at the father's expence until the age of seven :
during which time, they are nevertheless, under the mother's charge,
when they are transferred to the father, if she does not like to retain
them any longer : in this case, she undertakes to provide for their
fixture support. The females remain with the mother until they are
married. In Barbary a man can take a new wife to himself, three
days after having repudiated the last ; while the female must remain
single three months. The husband can at all times discard his wife,
but he is required to return what is called her saddok, or dowry and
wardrobe. In the event of changing his mind, he cannot take her
back, until she has married another ; who, having enjoyed all the
rights of a husband, goes through the ceremony of repudiating her
in his turn : she is then allowed to rejoin her former spouse. The
extreme facility with which the Mahometans are allowed to dissolve
marriages, has, amongst its various other evils, introduced the practice
of people's marrying without any previous knowledge of each other's
disposition or character : thus making that sacred obligation a
matter of convenience, to gratify momentary feelings of libertinism.
Sympathy, esteem, or conformity of sentiments, are out of the ques-
tion in these connections. Matrimony has been compared to a chain :
if not made a tender tie by mutual concord, to the women of Barbary
it is a wretched fetter; while the men regard it as imposing no obli-
gation whatever. The contempt in which women are held, added to
the facility of procuring fresh objects of gratification whenever they
please, has led to an habitual indulgence of the most abominable
excesses amongst this infamous race ; and such is the danger of mak-^

POLYGAMY. 213

ing vice familiar, that their depravity is publicly acknowledged with
no less boldness than effrontery.

Experience has long proved, that polygamy, which Mahomet
has recommended to his followers, as the greatest perfection of a
Mus.selman's life, is not only inimical to the increase of population,
but ruinous to domestic happiness of every kind, and that unanimity
which can alone secure the tranquillity of parents and children. The
prophet has proved himself a bad reasoner, in saying, that " the
more you draw out of the well, the more water it yields :" women, on
the contrary, soon find it dried up.

Some have maintained, that it is not contrary to the law of
nature to possess four wives ; because in the population of Asia and
Africa, there are, upon an average, four women to each man. It is
added, that the females are marriageable at twelve years of age, though
still retaining all the manners of children: thus they are only capable
of gratifying the passions, without contributing to the society of a
husband ; and when at twenty-five, they should become agreeable
companions, their fecundity and personal charms disappear. In
Europe, where a female at the age of thirty or forty, frequently retains
the graces of person, improved by those of the mind, .she is often more
acceptable than an inexperienced girl, to a man of sentiment : while
in Africa and the East, men are content to pass the most valuable
years of their lives, with women whom they cannot love, for the mere
pleasure of sensual gratification. Hence the necessity of taking a
second wife, while the first superintends the domestic concerns, and
education of her children. But de.spoti,sm has had recourse to other
reasonings in support of this unnatural system : amongst the rest, it
arrogates a degree of savage glory, from lowering and despising the
weaker sex.

It is true, that taking the whole mass of the Moorish population,
there are not many who avail themselves of the dangerous privilege
of taking a second wife ; for the conditions annexed to it, are so
numerous, as to prevent most people from fulfilling them. A man is

214 POLYGAMY.

oblig^ed first to prove before the Cadi, that he can support an addi-
tional female according to her rank in life, and to which she has been
accustomed. Some, possessing ample means, avoid having recourse
to polygamy from motives of economy, and to prevent the discordance
which is sure to arise from a plurality of wives. Although allowed
to take as many concubines as they please, it is in the legitimate
wife's power to dismiss them whenever she thinks proper : if she does
not take advantage of this liberty, care is taken to be constantly on the
alert, so that the new favourite shall not gain too great an ascendancy
over the mind of her husband. If any favour is accorded to him by
the concubine, his wife takes care to keep the merit of such conde-
scension to herself.

As might be expected, it is scarcely possible to describe with
what warm interest a Moorish woman listens to an account of our
customs with regard to her own sex ; and how she envies that tender
consideration in which the females of Europe are held; also the
feeling manner in which they lament their melancholy fate whenever
they visit the consuls' wives, or those of other Christian residents.
These visits are generally devoted to a recapitulation of all their
unmerited sufferings, the coldness of their husbands, and innumerable
hardships to which they are exposed in the harem. But of all our
institutions, none is more applauded by these unhappy victims, than
that of our only being able to marry and blend our destiny with one
wife. They believe the women of Europe to be on this account
infinitely more happy; and very properly, that the men are still more
so. According to a German poet, he that possesses four wives is
fortunate; but the man who has only one, is a demi-god!

FUNERAL CEREMONIES. "il 5

CHAPTER XI.

Funeral Ceremouies and Lamentations over the Dead in Barbar y. — Mourning
of Widows. — Vows of Friendship and Fidelity made on the Graves of
departed Relatives. —Table of the Moors. — Cuscousu. — Pillaw and Basseen.
— Use of Sugar and Spices. — Yemen Coffee. — Amusements of the Moors. —
Method of enticing Birds. — Chess, and other Games of Chance. — Social Meet-
ings.^The Kiosco. — Barbers'" Shops.— Moorish Baths. — Mode of Bathing.
— Baths frequented once a Week by the Women.—Singers, and Dancing
Girls.— Itinerant Story Tellers.— The Bastinado.— Life of the rich Moor.

As in most other countries, there is also great apparent sorrow
evinced in Barbary when any one dies. No sooner is an event of
this nature announced, than several women with dishevelled hair
and every symptom of grief, rush into the house of the deceased,
clasping their hands and uttering loud cries of despair. When these
have subsided a little, one of the party, generally an old female
acquaintance, pronounces a laboured eulogy on the merits of her
departed friend : this is immediately followed by a renewal of the
previous sobbings and lamentations. On the coffin, which is formed
in the shape of an oblong square, being brought in, all the women
put their heads into it. This ceremony is accompanied by increased
mourning, and soon after two females come in with lighted tapers
and bunches of flowers, which are strewed over the coffin. The body
being wrapped up in a winding sheet, is placed in it ; and followed
to the grave by the whole assembly, is consigned to its final home
in the midst of their wailings.* If a widow is left to deplore

* The subject of Moorish funeral rites is very minutely detailed in TuUy's Narrative,
vide p. 90 ; where the reader will find some extremely curious facts related. ^d.

216 FUNERAL CEREMONIES.

the loss of her husband, she is instantly surrounded by a large circle
of sympathizing friends, who absolutely overwhelm her with con-
solation, imtil she is frequently obliged to withdraw from their further
assiduities. Numberless lives have been sacrificed in Mahometan
countiies, from the extraordinary practice of hastening to inter bodies
almost immediately after animation appears to be suspended.

This barbarous custom arises from an idea, that the felicity of
the next world, does not commence till the corpse is under ground :
so that no sooner has it been washed, and a composition of various
essences or camphor put into the ears and nostrils, but the coffin is
btought, and the funeral takes place. And in proceeding to the
grave, the Moors get there as fast as they possibly can, assigning as a
reason, that the angel of justice is waiting to receive the soul of the
deceased. The graves of men are distinguished by a turban, while
that of a female is ornamented with a large nosegay of the finest
flowers. After the burial a profusion of meat and other refreshments
are distributed to the friends who have attended: this is called the
repast of the sepulchre.

The more any one is afllicted at the death of a relation or friend,
the greater is his neglect and indifference to dress and person . While
the mourning lasts, every kind of superfluous indulgence and orna-
ment is suppressed : looking-glasses, jewels, and perfumes are alike
neglected. A widow of rank changes her band richly set with
precious stones, for a simple piece of white ribbon, while the clothes
she wears are purposely soiled to give her a greater appearance of
mourning. She also goes down to the beach, if living near the sea:
and seated on a rock, arranges her hair, discomposed by the recent
loss, with a golden comb, procured for the occasion. At the end of
four months and ten days, she returns to the spot with the identical
comb, and four fresh eggs ; the latter of which, is given to the first
person she meets, who cannot refuse them, although they are sup-
posed to carry away all the afflictions of the donor : and the comb
is thrown into the sea. She is then, and not before, at liberty to
marry again.

MOORISH TOMBS. 217

Every Friday the parents and relatives of a person recently
deceased, visit his tomb, in the belief that on the above day, the
spirits of the dead hover about it, to converse with each other con-
cerning the objects of their affections left behind on earth. It is
sometimes customary with the Moors to dress and adorn the dead body,
so that it shall not make a contemptible figure on being introduced to
the great assembly of spirits. The graves are covered with smooth
mortar, and frequently whitewashed ; flowers are also cultivated
round them, while care is taken to root up all the noxious herbs or
plants found in their vicinity. The oath of friendship and fidelity is
often taken over the grave of a newly buried friend. This ceremony
consists of swearing by the altar of the prophet, and sepulchres of
their lost friends, and then making a wound in each other's arms ;
whence the blood flows into a bowl, and mixes in sign of amity and
reconciliation. Thus in the wilds, and impenetrable woods of North
America, the savages select a tempestuous day, and hanging up the
bones of their departed friends to the highest branches, the most
sacred treaties and alliances are made : while the whitened remains
are agitated to and fro by the storm, the venerated shades of their
former possessors are invoked, and no doubt is entertained of the
Great Spirit's being present at this solemn feast of souls, as it is called.
It is also common in the islands of the South Sea, for the natives to
assemble at their solitary morai, for the purpose of exchanging vows
of reciprocal afl'ection over the scattered tumuli of former friends.

The 3Ioorish tombs, surrounded by cooling shades, and thickly
planted with flowers, call to mind the romantic cemeteries of France
and Switzerland. There is scarcely any country in which a great
portion of the inhabitants do not derive a secret and delightful
source of consolation from the idea of departed friends being present
at the scenes of life, and keeping up a mysterious intercourse with
those who fiequent their graves to pay the sacred tribute of sympathy
and tears.

In their diet the Moors generally vary between the extremes of

F F

218 DIET.

frugality and gluttony. Supporting hunger and thirst with amazing
patience, when tlie occasion presents itself, they devour with the
voracity of a Lombard. The celebrated cuscousu is prepared by
putting a quantity of rice, and another grain peculiar to Barbary, in
a perforated vase, which, being laid over a boiler well filled with
fowls, mutton, &c. the steam of the latter cooks the cuscousu, when
some butter, and the more solid contents of the boiler, are mixed up
with it, making, upon the whole, one of the finest dishes imaginable :
no wonder, therefore, that this should be the national, and I may
add universal food in Barbary. The pillaw and basseen is a species of
pudding, to which salt beef or mutton is sometimes added. They also
indulge in hashes, which together with their roast meat are extremely
well prepared. Great quantities of sugar, spices, and otto of roses, are
used in all their culinary preparations.

Before eating, the Moors invariably wash their hands, they then
sit down cross-legged round the table, which nearly touches the floor :
neither cloth or napkins are used, one towel serving in common for
the whole party. ITie spoons are generally of wood ; he who makes
use of an ivoiy one, being considered a great man. As to knives and
forks they are never employed, nor are they much wanted, owing to
the meats being always in small pieces, and so much boiled, as to
separate with the greatest facility. There are no glasses either ; all,
more pccudum, drink water or lemonade out of a large pitcher : wine
is of course prohibited, and with it all mirth and gaiety. Notwith-
standing the prophet's injunctions, many of the faithful, particularly
the Turks and Moors, frequent the taverns in Algiers ; and on these
occasions, forgetting the precepts of religion, they do not disdain
to take very large draughts of the potent juice! The Musselraen
find little difficulty in giving themselves absolution for this kind of
excess ; and many are no doubt liberal enough to believe, they are
even acting conscientiously, in thus adding to the generosity of their
morose nature. They are, however, obliged to dispatch the bottle
with some celerity, as otherwise detection might ensue: like M. La

USE OF COFFEE. 219

Mothe, the spri,t;htly Bishop of Orleans, who in a large party, hear-
ing that there was a liqueur called the milk of Venus, handing round,
which could not well be pronounced in the presence of his grace,
successively swallowed three or four glasses, observing that no time
was to be lost in destroying so dangerous an enemy !

Whenever an Arab or Moor is crossing the desert he has usually
something in his mouth to chew : this sometimes consists of tobacco-
leaf, and is said to give considerable nutriment, operating like the
flour made out of oyster-shells, used by the inhabitants of South Ame-
rica ; which, as well as their famous coca, enables them to pass whole
days without any other sustenance. But that which affords most
pleasure and relief to a Moor, after a fatiguing day's journey, is a
cup of coff'ee : of which there is an immense consumption all over
Barbary, as in other Mahometan countries. They prefer that of
Yemen, and do not grind it as in Europe : after being burned,* it is
merely pounded in a mortar ; instead of boiling it by infusion, the
water is poured on it, as we prepare our tea. The coffee I saw made
in this way, had all the appearance of rosolio : but I did not much
approve of their drinking it without sugar ; while they thought me
absolutely mad, for using so much. On this subject I could have
repeated with our celebrated poet Redi :

Beverei prima il veleno

Che un bicchier che fosse pieno

Dell' amaro e reo cafFé.

Ali that is dear and amiable in this world bears the title and
character of beauty : sweetness is also tiequently applied to objects of
approbation : music is siveet, so is a fine climate or impressive sermon.
Is any one disposed to eulogize a friend, he is a siveet fellow, and his

* Every one recollects Buonaparte's decrees against the colonial produce of England :
in which it was ordered, that all such articles should be burnt. One day, on entering the
apartment of his first minister, he surprised him in drinking coffee ; and in an angry tone,
asked «don't you know my orders?" Upon which the minister replied, "it has been'
burnt, sire !" — Ed.

F F 2

220 AMUSEMENTS.

words are like honey ! Advice ought to be sweet, and sweetness should
temper mercy. The severity of the fair sex should partake of the
same quality : so ought power in the hands of kings. How beautitiil
is woman when she favours her admirers with les i/eu,v doux ! And
what greater treasure can we possess than a billet doux ?

No sooner have the Moors finished their repast, than they again
wash their hands, and rising, without any other ceremony, proceed
to smoke their pipes. They can neither approve or comprehend the
European custom of sitting at table for hours after dinner, merely to
falk scandal, and discuss political subjects. To them, it is far more
agreeable and salutary to retire and take a siesta, in the manner of
the Spaniards. Mahomet himself has promised, that God will allow
the just, in Paradise, a small room where they can retire after meals
to enjoy a grateful and luxurious nap.

The indolent and monotonous life of a Moor, admits of but very
little amusement : if occasionally disposed to shake otf their habitual
laziness, they mount their barb, and absent themselves for a few days
in the country. Of late years they also seem to have taken much
greater delight in fowling : in the pursuit of this amusement, they
have one very singular practice, that of placing themselves under a
small tent, painted with various colours, round which quails and
other birds flock with eagerness, and are thus shot in great
numbers.

Draughts and chess, are the })rincipal games played in Barbary ;
and I observed another of this species at Algiers, which appeared to
be full of combination and ingenuity. Their religion prohibits card-
playing ; and the more rigid amongst them are quite astonished by
what fatality Europeans can occupy themselves so incessantly in
moving about little scraps of paper, in Avhich they cannot possibly
discover any meaning. The Mahometans would agree perfectly with
the native of Siam, who, during a visit to a great nation, tlms wrote
to his friend at home : " The French say they only adore one God;
but I cannot believe it, as besides living divinities, to whom they appear

WANT OF SOCIAL INTERCOURSE. 221

to offer up so many vows, there are several inanimate ones, whom
they sacrifice to, in private companies ; where a large round altar,
covered with a green cloth, and illuminated in the centre, is seen,
surrounded by several people, who are seated as we are in our domestic
sacrifices : one of them, who appears to be the high priest, spreads a
number of these leaves on the table, which are taken out of a small
book held in one hand. On these are represented a variety of the
most deformed figures, which must of course represent the divinities ;
as, no sooner are they distributed, than each of the worshi[)pers lays
down as large an ofi^ering as he can afford on one or other of them.
I observed too, that these were much larger than they were usually in
the habit of making in the ordinary places of worship. After the
ceremony of spreading the leaves, and making the offerings is over,
the high priest places his trembling hand on the remainder of the
terrible book, continuing some moments with his eyes rivetted to the
table, and apparently immoveable. All the company, as if imploring
some signal blessing, look with fearful anxiety towards the petrified
chief: soon after, as he proceeds to turn over the leaves in his hands,
each individual seems to be agitated by a different impulse : some
clasping their hands, look up to Heaven with eyes full of anxiety ;
while others bite their lips, grind their teeth, and mutter imprecations;
a third party begin to bite their fingers and stamp upon the ground :
but scarcely has the high priest turned over a few leaves, than he also
becomes furious : tearing the book he overturns the altar, and heaps
maledictions on the sacrifice; upon this, the whole is a scene of riot
and confusion. I have been led to think that theirs is a jealous god,
who in order to punish them for the sacrifices they offer to so many
earthly deities, sends a demon to torment each of them."

With regard to social intercourse as practised in Europe, it is
scarcely known inBarbary ; where people seldom meetexcept on matters
of business. An hour after sun-set, every one retires to his own house ;
and if there be an occasional meeting, it is passed very differently
to those of more civilized, and less depraved countries. Some hours of

•i22 barbers' SHOiPS.

the day are, in warm weather, generally spent in a kind of little
portico, called kioscos : these are covered at the top, and being open on
each side, usually command an extensive horizon. Here they remain
smoking tobacco and rose leaves, the former of which is by some
conuiiunicated through rose-water, as by the Indian hooker. A .
cup of strong Yemen coffee is frequently taken during this favourite
lounge : it is still further enlivened by the appearance of public singers
and dancers ; each of whom endeavour to amuse the company by a
combination of obscenity and voluptuousness, only to be equalled
by the baladieres of the East. It is strange to observe with what a
degree of profound silence and gravity, the Moors witness these
scenes, being the whole time as serious as if attending to a religious
ceremony. This taciturn disposition extends to all their associations :
and I have seen a party sit together for nearly two hours, without
exchanging a dozen words; and afterwards depart, without the least
apparent desire of seeing each other again.

In addition to the kiosco, the Moors have another grand rendez-
vous in the barbers' shops; which are, in all countries, endow ed with
the privilege of disseminating the news of the day. These receptacles
are the more esteemed and frequented in Barbary, from tlie circum-
.stance of their not having to share the glory of directing public
opinion with those of apothecaries ; who are in Europe, the great
sources of anecdote and political intelligence.* The barber's shop in
Algiers, is from morning to night filled with a number of idle Moors,
some reclined along benches, and others seated cross-legged on the
floor counting their beads, and listening with open mouths to the
marvellous stories of their unerring oracle. Little, in fact, can be
said in praise of social meetings in Barbary ; where people unite
together more by accident than design, and, instead of pursuing a
regular conversation, substitute either a dead silence, or idle strain
of unmeaning remarks. It is hardly necessary to add, that the

* This observation is more directly applicable to Italy. — Ed.

BATHS. 223

women are entirely excluded from these occasional parties ; and
this is no trifling reason for the dullness and stupidity which presides
at them.

As in all Mahometan countries, baths are great objects of luxu-
rious utility at Algiers ; where the excessive heats of summer, no less
than religious obligation render frequent ablutions necessary : nor
has the prophet left a more useful injunction on his followers, than
that of having recourse to their baths, as the best mode of preserving
health, and keeping oft" disease.

The baths of Algiers, called hamam in the Arabic, are not inferior
to those of Constantinople, so well described by Lady Montague.
The hall on entering, consists of a large rotunda ; in which there
is a bank to lay the clothes on : when shipped, a large napkin is
thrown over the bather, and he is then introduced into a corridor,
where the heat becomes merely perceptible, thence, advancing by
slow degrees, he successively passes through the frigidarium, and
tepidarium, until he reaches the caUdarium of the Romans ; here he
is laid down on soft cushions, while the continually ascending vapour
combining with rich odours, soon form a cloud of incense round his
body. After a few moments repose, and when the limbs become
sufficiently flexible, two attendants take hold of him, and no sooner
have all the joints been made to crack, than he is rolled about like
kneaded bread. The evaporation on these occasions, is much more
considerable than one would imagine ; and although a little temporary
inconvenience arises fiom the heat and friction, it is shortly succeeded
by sensations of the most agreeable nature. The breathing becomes
more free than before ; while the blood circulates with unusual celerity,
and a general feeling of animation spreads through thewhol* system,
which seems to give it new life and activity.

The women of this country, are passionately fond of visiting the
baths, where they can alone be said to enjoy any degree of personal
liberty : here they meet their female friends, and pass the day in
occupations, which is, to them, the greatest pleasure of life. Decked

224 KILLING TIMK.

in the most splendid apparel and richest ornaments, all the minutiae
of the toilet is repeated after having taken the bath. This ceremony
concluded, she is washed from head to foot in rose water, and various
perfumes are sprinkled over the hair : the eyebrows are next tinged,
after which her garments are put on, having previously passed through
the smoke of aloe wood : the toilet completed, she then proceeds to
the exterior apartment, where candied fruits, sweetmeats, and other
refreshments are presented; the alme and dancing girls now make their
appearance, and while displaying all the voluptuous fascinations of their
art, the former sing choruses, \Uiich do not serve to diminish the etlect
produced on the fair spectators by the dancers. One day in each
week is thus passed by the Moorish ladies: bathing, chatting, dress-
ing and undressing, occupy the whole of it ; and is to them, the
great business of life. With its apparent sameness, I am, however,
inclined to think, there are some European ladies, who would not
altogether dislike the above mode of passing a day. A poet, wishing,
perhaps, to convey an idea of one part of the sex, thus described his
better half :

Ma femme est un animal

Original,

Qui bien ou mal

S'habille.

Se deshabille,

Babille !

These various little occupations, and modes of killing time, are
probably necessaiy to the happiness of many ladies ; lest, as some
have wittily observed, time should kill them ! A lady of high fashion
having once given out, that she wanted a female attendant, one of a
very promising appearance presented herself: being asked whether
she understood combing the hair, and arranging the head-dress, the
new candidate replied, " that was precisely what she principally
excelled in, as she only required five minutes to comb and arrange
the largest head of hair." " You may go," said the lady, heaving a

DANCING. 225

deep sigh; " what! comb a lady's hair in tìve minutes? And pray,
how am I to pass the rest of my morning V

In Europe, dancing is w'ith every one the symbol of joy and
indication of felicity. This art, as observed by a character in the
Bourgeois Gentilhomme, ought to be deeply interesting to the policy
of all governments ; as it teaches how to maintain the equilibrium.
The celebrated Marcello, while giving lessons in London, was once
observed to fix his eyes on a pupil, and after considering for some
moments, as if absorbed in a profound reverie, suddenly exclaimed, que
de chases dans un minuet ! Old Vestris, too, on first introducing his son
to public notice, appeared dressed in deep black, with a large perriwig
and small sword by his side ; turning to the young candidate, just as
they both entered, he addressed him as follows : mon Jils, vous allez
danser. Souvenez vous que vous paraissez sur le premier theatre de
Vunivers, et que votrepère vous regarde ! Dancing is not, however,
considered by any means as a dignified accomplishment in Barbary ;
where it is exclusively confined to prostitutes and slaves, women of
character being never allowed to dance. When a party of those
females, who live by showing their dexterity in this way, are sent for
to exhibit before the rich Moors in the kioscos, they are very liberally
paid ; and it is usual for the master of the feast to perform a favourite
act of gallantry, which is done by throwing a few sequins or doub-
loons into the bosom of her, who has been most distinguished for
agility during the entertainment. The above is by far the most
agreeable spectacle enjoyed in Algiers.

The Jiguranfes of Afi-ica never dance in company with men ; and
although two sometimes stand up, it very seldom happens that more
than one dances at a time : very little space is required for these
exhibitions, the whole art consisting in throwing about the arras,
various contortions of the body, and gracefully agitating a shawl or
long veil, generally kept for such occasions. While the dance conti-
nues, it is accompanied by the most significant smiles and ogles ;

6 G

226 STORY-TELLIiRS.

which are sure to correspond very exactly with the amorous gestures
and movements of the body. However, the acme of this talent seems
to consist in moving the lower limbs with incredible celerity, while
the upper remain perfectly still. This is certainly effected in a very
masterly manner ; but is done at the expence of decency. For my
part, I cannot persuade myself to admire any kind of dancing, in
which the legs and feet are not kept moving : — to me, pantomimica!
gestures and unmeaning grimaces, are a very insufficient substitute for
a fine spring or active quiver. A Parisian figure dancer, having
broken a leg, the celebrated Madame Arnaud very sensibly said, —
" How fortunate that it's only a leg : had it been an arm, she would
no longer have been enabled to dance !"

Amongst the means resorted to for amusing the populace in
Barbary, there are a set of itinerant story-tellers, like the Mullas of
India, and rhapsodists of Greece, who frequent the kioscosand public
places ; where, mounted on a table, they recount various histories
and tales, filled with the most extravagant improbabilities: when
ended, a cap is handed round to collect their reward, as our Italian
improvisatori of the third class who sing in the streets, are in the habit
of doing. As these ambulatory historians, in occasionally recurring
back to days of former glory, sometimes obtain the dangerous repu-
tation of being rather wise, the less indulgent beys of the interior,
have a prompt method of signifying their total disapprobation of so
much wisdom. This notice is generally followed by a broad hint, to
lose no time in quitting their happy states, if they wish to keep their
heads on their shoulders.

From the specimens I heard, it is extremely difficult to conceive
how such quacks could possibly succeed in awakening sentiments of
patriotism or a love of liberty : they seemed more calculated to pro-
duce a disposition to sleep than otherwise; and when sometimes
invited by the Turkish officers to a kiosco, where stories were
to be recited, there was no chance of getting away for several hours.

BASTINADO. 227

Even many of the Moors, I was induced to think, from their yawning,
found such endless narratives,

Tedious as a twice-told tale,

Vexing the dull ear of a drowsy man !

Prolixity has been justly compared to long trains, which retard one's
progress while they impede the free use of the limbs. There are
many story-tellers who recollect every thing, except that of having
favoured their friends with the same anecdote, at least six times before
the last. A person being once reproved for this little failing, replied
by way of consolation ; " why. Sir, if I don't repeat my stories, I shall
forget them !"

The reader will, no doubt, be surprised to hear of another curious
amusement peculiar to this country, which is neither more nor less
than the bastinado! — Such, however, is the case; and although
confined to those who preside at any public feast or large entertain-
ment, it is certain that none are ever held upon an extensive scale in
Barbary, without a liberal application of the bastinado : — said to be
for the laudable purpose of maintaining order and tranquillity.
x4.mongst slaves, that joy and liberty which marks the assemblage of
freemen, is entirely banished; and it is an established maxim with
despotic governments, to display the rod in keeping off the multitude,
which is supposed to give more dignity to a feast, while it affords a
favourable opportunity of reminding the weak, that the powerful are
present, to prevent the trembling populace from approaching too
near them.

A great man does not arrive in a village of Barbary, without the
governor doing him the honour of ordering a distribution of bastina-
does.— There are regularly appointed officers to execute tliis very
honourable office ; some being mounted, while others are on foot.
The Aga Baston, is also an officer of the highest dignity in Algiers,
his province being that of superintending all punishments : he is con-
sidered as one of the greatest props of the government. " Strike and

G G 2

228 ENJOYMENT.

listen," said Themistocles to Euribiades; but at the piratical city,
they strike without listening ; and if anyone attempts to justify him-
self, the dose is generally repeated. This is to carry the staff of
office with a vengeance !

Considered individually, the Moor is neither fond of company
or large public meetings. He thinks that to mix in crowds is not
the best way of enjoying life ; and in this there may be some truth,
particularly when we reflect on his various other sedentary occupa-
tions. In fact, all the happiness of these people consists in sitting
down, surrounded with their solitary pleasures.

A Moor cannot conceive how we derive any satisfaction fi-om
walking backwards and forwards, without any apparent object in
view. When he meets a person with whom he is desirous of having
any serious conversation, a retired spot is directly found ; where both
seat themselves. When at home, his chief delight is to lay stretched
along the softest cushions, inhaling the fumes of Syrian tobacco, and
sipping the best Yemen or Mokka coffee. The pleasures of the kiosco
have been already described. To these may be added, the rare cere-
mony of visiting an acquaintance : whenever this happens, the visitor
no sooner arrives, than rose water is brought in and sprinkled all
over his face and person; a censer is then produced, which the
bearer, generally a slave, holds up close to the stranger's head, until
enough of the incense has been imbibed. After all, coffee, sherbet,
and pipes, are successively presented : besides their favourite Levant
tobacco, which is extremely mild, the aloe leaf is frequently used in
the same way. Thus indulging their only social gratifications,
politics and religion are never introduced ; and very few words are
exchanged : these are usually confined to — " How do you do?" " God
is good ;" " Algiers is a strong city ; ' — and similar phrases, which
neither fatigue nor compromise the speaker. He who happens to
receive visitants at his house, never rises when they enter, but remains
seated until they come up and salute him: on retiring, the same

CHIEF PLEASURES. 229

indifference is manifested on bis part ; it being merely customary to
offer refreshment.

During warm weather, the rich Moor will often rise two hours
before day-light ; not for the purpose of saluting the God of day, but
to enjoy the cooling zephyrs of night. On these occasions, he visits
his children's apartment, gives orders, takes his coffee, and after
smoking a pipe, lays down to sleep again. When seated in his room,
four slaves attend with folded arms, and eyes steadily directed towards
their master ; anticipating all his wishes, and promptly obeying the
slightest movement of his hand, or inclination of his head. On getting
up a second time, about eight o'clock, he makes a short visit to the

harem, dines at ten, takes coffee, sleeps again, and then bathes.

The whole of the morning occupation concludes by a turn on the
terrace. At sun-set, supper is prepared : in less than two hours after,
he is in bed ; and the next day re-commences with a similar round of
occupations.

From the foregoing short specimen of Moorish habits, it will be
perceived, that their chief pleasure consists in little more than that of
ministering to the most selfish and enervating gratifications. Not
satisfied, however, with those I have noticed, many have recourse to
large quantities of opium, as another means of procuring temporary
happiness. In order to enjoy fancied bliss, some begin by burying
the past in oblivion ; and if we may believe their own accounts,
nothing can be more exquisite than the dreams of joy, created by
this deleterious drug. It is, by many, taken in great quantities,
together with an herb, called khaf; and either, is said to produce an
extraordinary effect on the imagination of those who make use of it.
The Moors tell you, that by means of a few grains, they are trans-
ported to the third heaven, surrounded by immortal beauties, and
inebriated with the most enchanting pleasures. When speaking of a
man who is loaded with the favours of fortune, he is said to— ^" live
upon opium I"

230 INDOLENCE.

An ambassador of Tippo Saib's, when giving an account of his
splendid reception at Versailles, and the wonders he saw there, termi-
nated his narrative, by observing, that " To see any thing like it in
other countries, one must have recourse to large doses of opium !"

Some have contended, that the above mode of life is, in many
respects, preferable to the agitation and bustle of European manners ;
asserting, that although activity and exercise is necessary in colder
climates, idleness and repose are inexpressible sources of delight in
warmer ones. The inhabitants of more temperate regions are, it is
true, continually adding to their stock of ideas; but the Afi-ican,
enjoying the unutterable pleasure of indolent calmness and easy
meditation, is not under the necessity of going out in search of
amusement : disliking conversation, he patiently awaits the pleasure-
able sensations as they arise in his own mind ; and without the smallest
personal exertion, slaves are always in attendance to anticipate his
wants, and execute his orders.

Better judges of hvmian nature, and amongst the rest, a distin-
guished modem traveller, are, however, of opinion, thattothis indolence,
so peculiar to the Moorish character, may be attributed many of their
greatest vices. To obtain his object, that of being perfectly idle, the
Mahometan of every country becomes selfish, cruel, avaricious, and
tyrannical. Pyrrhus meditated interminable wars, in the vain hope
of enjoying future repose. In fact, I very much doubt, notwithstand-
ing appearances, whether this cold monotony of life yields quite so
much happiness, as some of its advocates would persuade us. Lassi-
tude must frequently await them ; and that is by tar the greatest
enemy of human pleasures. We know also, that the operation of
rust is sometimes more injurious than even the file itself

Total strangers to all those finer feelings of the heart, and
generous sympathies which produce so many acts of virtue in more
civilized countries, I could never discover any thing to excite praise
or esteem in their mode of life. Without the wann affections and

WANT OP INTELLECT. 231

tender sentiment of an European, the Moor may indeed be said to
vegetate and even enjoy sensual pleasures; but he is lost to the
exercise of benevolence and humanity, not to mention the still more
exalted privilege of extending intellectual faculties. A person once
speaking of an epicure, who took great care of his person, observed,
that he would no doubt live a long time : rather say, " he will last
long," rejoined a by-stander. The same observation may be with
great truth applied to all the followers of Mahomet, who vegetate,
but cannot be said to live.

232 MOORISH BEAUTY

CHAPTER XII.

Moorish Beauty. — Eyes and Features, Corpulency, and Mode of fattening
up before Marriage. — Criterion to judge of a fine Woman. — Complexion.
Embellishments extraordinary. — Comparison with European Ladies. — Vanity
the ruling Principle. — Unhappy Condition of the Women in Barbary ;
their State of Servitude and ill Treatment. — Ideas of the Moors with regard
to their Creation. — Their prerrmture old Age. — Jealousy. — Ridiculous
Precautions to prevent Women from being seen or .spoken to. — Inevitable
Consequence of being discovered in an Intrigue.— Story of a Tunisian
Lady.— Susceptibility and Power of Love. — Moorish Houses favourable
to Intrigue. — Argusses occasionally outwitted. — Affectionate Conduct of the
Moorish Ladies towards their Husbands, àfc.

JS she handsome ? is always the first question we ask of those who
mention a lady in our hearing :— and the weaker is very justly denomi-
nated the /air sex. Lovers and poets, with equal propriety, call those
who may have inflamed their hearts or inspired their heads, beautifiil;
and although not very abundantly supplied with materials, my duty
and admiration would remain very incomplete, were I to omit giving
some little account of African beauty. Those of my European ac-
quaintances in Algiers, who, " more bless'd than I," had the pleasure
of making greater discoveries on the subject, describe them as pos-
sessing the utmost regularity of features and finest complexions. The
celebrated Rivarol being asked what he thought of the ladies of
Paris and Berlin, answered, " that the veins of the Parisian fair ones
were filled with milk ; while pure blood seemed to flow in those of the
Berlin ladies. Of the Moorish women, it may be said that fire is the

AFRICAN BELLES. 23.'5

circulating fluid. It is particularly active in their eyes, which nature
seems to have formed between a material and spiritual substance, the
light in which the soul is seen to shine. The African belles move
those sensitive orbs with inimitable art ; and, as seen through the
envious veil which covers them, they have been compared to the sun's
rays, obscured by a passing cloud.

As to figure and person, the Moors do not regard it so much as
we do, or more properly speaking, their ideas of beauty and ours are
materially difl^erent. So far from bracing up with stays and lacings to
produce slenderiiess and grace, they are anxious to give full develope-
ment both to the limbs and person : to be fat and corpulent, is the
readiest way an African fair can take to obtain conquests. So that
amongst the Moors, immensity of size and beauty are synonymous.
Mind and sentiment are not amongst the ingredients of love in Bar-
bary ; nor do they add in any degree to the value of a wife with a Moor.
The more fatness, the greater wealth as a partner. Women are,
in fact, esteemed by their weight. It is on this account that infinite
pains are taken to fatten up Moorish ladies: enclosed in a small
room they are fed like the pigeons and doves in Italy ; one part of
their diet consists of little paste balls, which are dipped in oil : great
quantities of these are swallowed, and washed down with water,
while the mother is constantly in attendance, to enforce their being-
devoured bon gre malgré : nor is the bastinado spared, if they refuse
the nauseating portion. Thus, a young woman who requires a camel
to carry her, is considered as a superior beauty; while one who cannot
walk without the assistance of a slave on each side, is considered to
have only moderate pretensions to that title! It is needless to add,
that some of our Italian ladies, who are principally composed of
skin and bone, would stand a poor chance in Barbary ; while to the
more favoured in flesh and blood, the sturdy Moors would smack their
lips, and repeat malechi esseri, " this is rich !"

A fair and smooth skin is also considered as a great improve-
ment to an African beauty. These are admirable qualities in the eyes

H H

234 TATTOOING.

of most people ; but more particularly so, amongst a race, whose
love is purely material. Where intellectual attractions are disregarded,
those of a physical nature more than satisfy their absence.

The ladies of Barbary, like those of all other countries, also call
in the aid of art, to embellish their natuml beauty : it is true, they
have no rouge ; but its place is supplied by tattooing various figures,
and graceful emblems, on the neck, bosom, and other parts of the
body : tlie hair and nails are also coloured with the juice of an herb
called zenna, which gives a saffron hue to them : the eyes too, are
encircled with several lines ; which, though it gives somewhat of a
harsher cast to the countenance, adds wonderfully to the piercing
expression of the eye. If the painful operation of tattooing occasions
temporary inconvenience and pain, the ornainental part remains : and
it has the additional advantage of saving the ladies a great deal of
trouble, experienced by the European belles ; particularly that of
being obliged to deposit their " borrowed graces" every night, before
retiring to bed : and one cannot address them, as a gentleman once
did a lady, who used frequently to appear with a different cosmetic :
•'• I am always discovering some new beauty in you, madam !"

Unfortunately, all those painful precautions are not destined to
be compensated by public applause ; but are exclusively confined to
the melancholy precincts of the harem. When a female walks out,
she is so oppressed and covered with drapery, that it is quite impos-
sible to distinguish any part of her face or figure : it is only when
she goes to the bath, or takes the air on her terrace, that the Alrican
fair is decked out in all the splendor of beauty, and pomp of dress.
The latter amusement is, however, extremely solitary, as they are
rarely seen, except by some female neighbour whom they happen
to visit, or that calls on them to pass an occasional hour. Moving in
a very limited circle, with pleasures, which are merely of a sensual
nature, vanity could alone induce a Moorish lady to be assiduous
in decorating her person : and the rarity of what she possesses in
the way of ornament, is her only recompense for the miserable

DEBASED STATE OP FEMALES. 236

uniformity of her days. To the foregoing causes, may be added,
that of the pleasure which most women derive from eclipsing a
successful rival, whether in dress or gallantry. A lady, who seemed
to bestow particular attention to the embellishment of her person, and
splendor of her equipage, being asked if she meditated a new con-
quest, or wished to fascinate some happy mortal ; replied, " these
decorations of my person, and studied elegance of living, are not
intended to please the men, but to mortity the women !"

Of all human beings, none are more entitled to commiseration
than the ill-fated women of Barbary. Shut up, confined in all their
movements, and strictly observed, they have the additional mortifica-
tion of being regarded with contempt by their inexorable masters. A
constant prey to jealousy, envy, and all the bitter pangs of humiliated
self-love and despised lieauty, they are generally obliged to divide the
atFections of their husbands with more successful rivals. To these
evils may he added, that of being dependent for happiness on the
caprice, morose temper, and untractable disposition of men ; who,
according to their idiom, do not like ladies possessed of the right
hand, meaning prudent wives and agreeable companions ; but would
infinitely rather find them trembling slaves. Extremely inimical to
an increase of family, the Moorish husband acts like a real pirate in
the conjugal bed, deva.stating the field of pleasure, instead of enrich-
ing it by a smiling offspring.

Becoming wives, the females of Barbary are at once excluded
from all the rights and privileges of the opposite sex, and pleasures
of society. None are allowed to eat at the same table with their hus-
bands; while those of the lower classes, attend as servants at their
meals, }>resent them Avith water to wash, and kiss their feet with as
much respect as we do the hand. There is not, in fact, a single
law, or accommodating usage, established in this country for the
female's happiness or protection. When obliged to sue for redress
before the Cadi, a wife can very seldom obtain the smallest .satisfac-
tion, no matter how great her wrongs. If permitted to separate from

H H 2

236 MUSSELMENS IDEAS OF WOMEN.

her persecutor, she loses her dowry : recurring to her parents for
assistance and support, these have either no power to act, or decline
entering into the dispute, frequently sending the poor complainant
back with disdain. A woman thus situated, once went to hei father's
to complain that she had received a blow on the cheek from her hus-
band ; the latter no sooner heard the story, than he gave her one on
the other side, saying, — " You will inform your husband, that having
struck my daughter, I have struck his wife ; and so now we are quits."

The Musselmen credibly believe, that God has only created
women for the mere purposes of sensual enjoyment, to contribute to
the pleasures of the stronger sex, and perpetuate the liuman race.
This idea, extravagant as it is, they have also contrived to make the
females believe. By this barbarous doctrine, which only tends to give a
little importance to women, while they can minister to the gratification
of their lords and masters, when personal charms cease, they are con-
signed to unutterable contempt. Amongst the other fatiguing occupa-
tions reserved for females in this deplorable state, they are employed
to fetch water troni distant wells, strike and pitch the tents. They
also load the camels, while their husbands form a circle on the sand,
and remain conversing upon indifferent subjects, or smoking their
pipes. Often when on a journey, the women are obliged to walk ;
while the men quietly retain their seat on the camel, frequently
flogging them if they do not keep up with the animal. Nature, too,
seems to unite with the harsh customs and atrocious legislation of
Barbary, in rendering the women still more unhappy. In these
warm climates, beauty may be compared to early flowers, which soon
blow and as quickly fade.

The circumstance of marrying, and bearing children at so tender
an age, the coldness and neglect o? their husbands, the little care
taken by themselves to preserve their grace and beauty, immoderate
use of hot baths ; and, above all, the monotonous and sedentary life
of the harem, with the ennui consequent on so much solitude,
bring on premature old age so very soon, that at twenty-five,, they

LOVE NO SHARE IN MATRIMONY. 237

generally look to be forty. Nothing but ruin is shewn in their coun-
tenances ; and one cannot say, on voit que l'amour a passe par Id t
It is not enough for the Moorish women to be thus wretched and
persecuted, but it must be continued after death ; when the joys of
Paradise are even denied them ; it being settled that they areto remain
at the door : it is also very much doubted, whether they even have a
soul. It is true, that in some parts of Europe, the men are alone
counted as possessing this attribute ; and an author of Ibe middle
ages has stated, that in women God made the eyes, cheeks, lips,
et alia quce sunt dulcia et amicabilia; sed de capite noluit se immis-
ceri ; sed permisset illudfacere diabulo ! But these are the silly rea-
sonings of distempered imaginations: if any one were seriously
disposed to argue the point, it would perhaps be in his power, to
prove women infinitely superior to men in a variety of respects, wherein
intellectual talent is more immediately concerned. An unbiassed phi-
losopher, in tracing the wonderful progress of created being, from the
minutest insect, to the " paragon of animals," might prove from analooy
and fact, that lovely woman was created last, at once to govern man,
and become the great prototype of beauty. Woman is, in effect, the
smile of nature : supporting the two extremes of life, she forms the
joy and haj^piness of its intermediate space. An eastern poet thus
addressed the daughters of men : " ye are the graces of day, and the
night loves ye like the dew which it sheds on flowers. The infant
issues from your side, to fix on your lips and bosom. Made for love,
you have words of magic, to soothe eveiy sorrow !"

Although love has no share in forming the connubial state, or
strengthening the more tender ties of matrimony in this country, yet
strange as it may appear to an European, the Moors are full of the
most cruel jealousy ; which is, however, perfectly consonant to the
rest of their character. It sometimes even happens, amongst ourselves,
that there is a possibility of being jealous, without having a particle
of real attachment for the object of our suspicion : this h far from
being an unusual exertion of self-love. Another species of that vile

238 JEALOUSY OF THE MOORS.

passion, arises from want of confidence in the beloved object : when
more rationally exerted, it extends to the diffidence which real merit
is apt to feel, in its own powers of pleasing. But that of Barbary,
originates in characteristic suspicion, a tyrannical disposition, an
exclusive desire of possessing absolute power in everything, even to a
blind dependence on their will and caprice ; all of which, acting simul-
taneously on the Moorish husband, hurries him on to extravagance and
crimes, in gratifying this horrible feeling. It is related, that the
governor of a province, being obliged to march against a neighbouring
prince, who had sworn to etfect his destruction, retired for seven days
to the country, remaining all that time with the women of his harem,
enjoying all the pleasures of a Musselman's life. Being afterwards
unable to sustain the dreadful thought of leaving them behind,
perhaps to fall into the hands, and grace the triumph of his ferocious
rival, he caused them all to be dispatched, and then set oifto assume
the command of his army.*

Upon another occasion, a Bey who had a beautiful woman in his
harem, of whom he was passionately fond ; on hearing that a painter
had just arrived, wished to have her portrait taken : for this purpose,
he ordered the artist into his presence ; and notifying his pleasure,
promised a liberal recompense for his ti'onble. The painter replied,
that he felt himself highly honoured by so flattering a commission,
and would do every thing in his power to satisfy his excellency. " You
may go to work then with all possible dispatch," said the Bey ; " and
when the picture is finished, bring it to me without loss of time."
" Your highness has only to let me see the lady whose portrait I am
to have the honour of painting." " What!" interrupted the enraged
Mahometan, " do you suppose I will let you see my wifel" " How

* It is related of a jealous husband, that once finding himself alone with his wife,
in a room where there was a large looking-glass, he broke it to pieces with the cane which
he held in his hand ; alledging, that he could not bear the thought of his wife's seeing
herself there in one man's company. Another addle-headed dolt, would not allow hi:'
wife to pronounce the name of any animal of the masculine gender!

JEALOUSY OF THE MOORS. 239

then," rejoined the painter, " am I to represent a person whom I
have never seen V " Retire," exclaimed the iiey, with trembling lips,
and eyes flashing fury. " If I cannot have her portrait, without
exposing her to your eyes, I would rather, a thousand times, forego
the pleasure I had figured to myself from having her picture drawn."
It was in vain that the astonished painter endeavoured to reason with
his highness on the unreasonableness of his proposition ; and soon
after made good his retreat from the irritated presence, congratulat-
ing himself on having escaped being thrown out of the window.

Innumerable are the precautions which a Moor takes, tolsecludehis
women from the sightof other people. AVhenever a Christian enters one
of their houses, he should be careful not to proceed too far, before the
master calls out Tarik ! meaning to give place ; so that the women
may have time to get out of tlie way. No stranger, and it is very
rare, that even a brother-in-law is permitted to see a manied lady
without her veil. In the harem, the women are under the care of an
old female superintendant, styled cadenhahiu, or some of that unfor-
tunate race called eunuchs; who in addition to their other harmless
qualities, are purposely disfigured in their features to prevent the
possibility of being seen, without a feeling of horror by tiie ladies.
When visited by a medical man, they are so placed, as to prevent him
from seeing their figure : and, previous to the pulse being felt, care is
taken to cover the hand and arm with a thick veil, so that even a man's
finger shall not touch the delicate skin of a Moorish female. While
walking on the terraces, all the males are warned not to extend their
profane regards over the forbidden fair. It is also, on this account,
that the Moors are said to employ blind men on the minarets, to call
the faithful, when the hour of prayer at the mosques is announced.

The Moor's vengeance arising from jealousy, is generally of the
most terrible description. If any intrigue or correspondence is dis-
covered between a 3Iahonietan female and a Christian, he is inevitably
condemned to lose his head; and the woman, after receiving a hun-
dred blows of the bastinado on her stomach, is enclosed in a sack and

240 HORRIBLE REVENGE.

thrown into the sea : should the gallant be a Moor, the offended hus-
band has the privilege of killing him, and then his wife. It is not
long since a case of the greatest horror and atrocity in this way,
occurred at Tunis. The daughter of a Doletro, having conceived the
strongest attachment for a young Moor, was prevented from marrying
him, on account of her father's preferring one of the Bey's secretaries : the
young lady, who was one of the most beautiful women in the regency,
continued, notwithstanding, to keep up rather too free an intercourse
with her lover, who, by means of a cord let down into the street, was
occasionally enabled to introduce himself into her apartment : unfor-
tunately, one night when he had nearly readied the window, the line
broke; and he received such a contusion from the fall, as rendered it im-
possible for him to move from the spot. The secretary, who happened
to be returning rather later than usual from El Bardo that night, dis-
covered the ill-fated lover, who was even weak enough to confess his
crime. The former having communicated the whole circumstance
to his master, asked M'hat revenge he f^^hould take to appease his
wounded honour. The Bey replied, that he conceived the gallant
had already suffered enough from his fall, which would most probably
end in death ; but as to the lady, the injured husband was at liberty
to dis]>ose of her as he thought proper. The secretary then proceeded
to the house of his father-in-law, and related the whole story of his
wife's intidelity. On this, both parties returned to his own house,
and calling the distracted female into her dressing-room, they in-
stantly applied a cord to her neck, by which she was in a few
moments strangled.

To so great a length is the feeling of jealousy carried amongst
these people, that you cannot, with propriety, ask a Moor after his
wife's health. It is easy to conceive that such men are not likely to
contribute much to the happiness of their companions in wedlock ;
nor can it be wondered at, if the husband's cruel treatment and total
want of confidence, often gives rise to a spirit of hatred and desire of
revenge on the part of his wife.

PRECAUTIONS SOMETIMES USELESS. 241

The wretched life led by the females in Barbary, creates a feeling
of melancholy, which is said to make them very accessible, and even
prone to the tender passion. The great master of the art of love,
advises us to beware of mentioning this subject to a woman while she
is viewing, with anxious eyes, a horse or chariot race ; — but love as
frequently springs from pity. It need not therefore be wondered at,
if the 3Ioorish ladies are occasionally relieved by the officious zeal of
some kind matron of Ephesus. It is in vain, that the husband
endeavours to amuse his dejected slaves by taking them into the
country, calling in the aid of music, and other recreations : these pro-
duce a very trifling effect in cheering up the otherwise cold uniformity
of their unhappy days. An European lady, whose partner kept her
continually in the country, was incessantly recurring to the pleasures
of the city and all its fascinating varieties. " How can you possibly be
dull V asked the rural philosophers of her neighbourhood : " here
you breathe the purest air, and can at any moment cull flowers of
every hue, or walk on the gentle rising grounds, surrounded by num-
berless innocent pleasures." To all this the lady replied, in a dissa-
tisfied tone, " but I don't like innocent pleasures !"

Notwithstanding so many precautions, the winged cherub fre-
quently contrives to scale the triple walls of the harem, where
selfishness, pride, and jealousy, have confined the empire of beauty ;
and in Barbary, an intrigue commences where those of Europe gene-
rally end. The Christian slaves are looked upon with so much con-
tempt, that they are considered rather as domestic animals than
otherwise, and on this account never want for opportunities of seeing
their masters' wives,— so that almost every slave has his Moorish
there amie, as each soldier of Italy his servant.* As there is usually
one in particular whom the master honours with his confidence and
esteem above the rest, the ladies of the harem consider themselves

* The Kalian soldier's wife or ammunition partner, is generally styled la sua serva.
-Ed.

242 FRENCH ANECDOTE.

bound and authorised to treat him with a much greater degree of
attention and indulgence.

This mode of justifying their preference, reminds me of the
specious and whimsical reasons once given to a monarch by one of
his favourites, who was desirous of excusing her various gallantries
in the eyes of his majesty. — "You." said he, " loved the Marechal
de * * *." — " Ah, Sire," she answered, "he had acquired such
glory !" " You were in love with my prime minister," continued the
king; — " He had so much power, Sire !" " That, was also a tine in-
trigue between you and the young officer." — " Yes, Sire ; but then
what a charming figure, and how well lie danced !" " And the
secretary of the academy !" — "He had so much wit, Sire; and said
such good things!" " But what in the name of wonder could you
see in the chancellor, with his awkward figure and taciturn cha-
racter."—" Ah, Sire, he was so warmly attached to your majesty!"

It sliould also be observed, that the construction of the Moorish
houses, is favourable to enterprizes of gallantry and love : what with
their fiat terraces and ladders of communication, a person may easily
go all over a district without once descending into the street ; while
he who enters at the door can always, in the event of being sur-
prised, escape by the terrace.

Night has ever been favourable to thieves and lovers. In Barbary
the latter avail themselves of that propitious season, and like the cats,
are scattered about the roofs for the purpose of gratifying their illicit
amours. It often occurs, that a lady is permitted to go and visit some
female friend for a few days : these are said to be sometimes very pro-
fitably employed ; and if the husband derives additional pleasure
from their occasional absence, they also know how to make it delight-
ful to themselves. Besides, if a woman declares herself pregnant, and
expresses a desire to go any where, she is never prevented, there being
the most scrupulous attention paid to all the wants and wishes of
Mahometan women in this delicate state. It was said of a lady, some
years separated from her husband, and who seemed desirous of

AFFECTION OF THE MOORISH LADIES. 243

rejoining him, that her's was tlie wish of a pregnant woman. Ill-
nature might insinuate, that the little excursions made by the Moorish
ladies on such occasions, would bear an inverse construction to the
above. But I do not pretend to go so deeply into the scandalous
chronicle of Barbary. It was asked of Mademoiselle Lanoi, while
employed in writing lier Memoirs, how she would represent herself,
when arrived at tliat part which related to certain little adventures of
gallantry; she answered, " in a bust:'' — so it ought to be with a
correct and cautious painter of manners. AVhen we speak of women,
says Diderot, our pen should be dipped in the colours of the rainbow,
and the lines sprinkled with golden powder taken from the wings of
the gentle butterfly !

Truth and justice, therefore, require me to express my firm
belief, that the ladies of Algiers seldom take advantage of the few
solitary privileges accorded to them by long established custom,
rather than the generosity of their husbands. Most of those who go
out for a short time, have no other object in view, than that of
passing a few days with friends or relatives. It would tend to dimi-
nish that sympathy which I am so desirous of awakening towards
the persecuted fair of Africa, were I to omit bearing ample testimony
to the astonishing patience and resignation evinced by them, in sup-
porting all their accumulated wrongs. Perfectly reconciled to their
solitude, they would be offended if a husband exposed them to the
regards of a stranger, and even doubt whether they had not ceased to
be estimable in his eyes, when not enclosed within the walls of
his harem. Those who have had greater facilities of observation, say,
that nothing can exceed the amiable tenderness and heartfelt gratitude
shewn by the Moorish women, towards the only object of their sight
and affections ; the smallest act of kindness being enough to fill
them with happiness. If the husband sends to say he wishes to dine
with or visit his wife, she immediately puts on her richest dress and
most costly ornaments, — causes the apartment to be perfumed, — pre-
pares the choicest viands, and receives her lord with a degree of

II 2

244 AFFECTION OF THE MOORISH LADIES.

dignified respect and affectionate gallantry, which would not disgrace
the matrons of Europe. Strangers to the idle frivolities of the world,
all their tenderness is concentrated in their children. Nothing is
more pleasing than a mother's fondness, or so calculated to inspire
veneration and respect, as the lisping emblem of innocence which
hangs upon her bosom! Such a gratifying sight repels the greatest
libertine, and the most abandoned will not attempt to corrode its
happiness. The women of Barbary, strangers to the gaze of vulgar
eyes, reserve all their secret charms for the happy being who is des-
tined to possess the unpolluted treasure. Concealed by a thorny
hedge-row, the violet is unseen ; but the fragrant odour discovers its
modest beauty.

AGRICULTURli. 245

CHAPTER XIII.

State of Agriculture in Algiers. — Imperfect Mode of Ploughing. — Wine. —
Butter. — Oil. — Olive Trees. — Method of enriching the Land. — Different^
Trades and Manufactures. — Otto of Roses. — Commerce. — Exports and
Imports. — Traffic with the Interior of Africa. — Method of Dealing. —
Circulating Medium. — Clipping. — Letters and Sciences. — Arab Writers.
— Hints on Civilization. — Anecdote — The Pen.— The Alfagui. — Their
Pedantry. — The Thibibs. —Medical Treatment in Barbary. — Anecdotes, ófc.

The statistics of Barbary furnish very little matter to excite the
enquiry, or gratify the curiosity of European travellers : with the finest
soil on earth, it is impossible for any country to be more neglected.
Where three-fourths of the ground is uncultivated, it is scarcely neces-
sary to add, that agriculture is at the very lowest state of rudeness and
degradation. In ploughing, the share is hardly perceived to leave
any trace behind : meadow and pasture land is, however, tolerably well
watered ; but the people of this country are by no means well versed
in the breeding and taking care of their flocks or horned cattle. The
gardens are well stocked with fruit trees, though neither taste nor sym-
metry is observed in the planting.* Notwithstanding the great
quantity of olive oil made in the Algerine territory, it is generally of
a bad quality, entirely owing to their total ignorance of preparing it
in a better manner: the tree too, is suiFered to grow without being regu-

* Although there is infinite room for improvement in the gardens of Barbary, I trust
that should it ever be colonized from Europe, the false taste which still continues to per-
vade those of France and Italy will not be introduced: and in this hope I have every
reason to believe, the author will most heartily join his wishes to mine. — Ed.

2t(> MANUFACTURES.

laily pruned, which is another great source of injury to the olive.*
The wine, which is made by Christian slaves, is quite as good as that
of Roses in Spain : but it loses a great deal of its flavour, after a visit
from the locusts. Butter is made by putting the milk into a goat's
skin, which being hung up, is beaten with sticks on each side, until
fit to be worked by the hand : it is by this filthy process not only
badly tasted, but always full of hairs. Corn is ground in mills, which
are turned by three camels. Unacquainted with the art of enrich-
ing land, they merely set fire to the stubble or other weeds : on these
occasions, great mischief arises from the flames often extending far
beyond what is required : it also creates a dreadful heat in the atmo-
sphere, and frequently runs along with such rapidity, that men and
animals have scarcely time to evade the fiery torrent : these fires some-
times last for nearly two months, during which, they give an appear-
ance of awful suljlimity to the heavens.

The trades most esteemed in Algiers, are those of the shoemaker,
drue:e:ist, jeweller, and, above all, the cnp manufacturer : of the latter
article, prodigious quantities are made and exported to all tlie ports
of the Levant. Each craft has its chief or head, called Aiiiin; who
decides all the little disputes which may arise within his particular
department : this mode of dividing the trades is very similar to that
formerly adopted in Florence. Metals are often worked without the
aid of fire, which gives great solidity to many of their utensils. There
are also, in the interior, several potteries and manufactures of hard-
ware. The wool of Barbary, and more particularly that of Algiers,
is admirably calculated for receiving dyes of every hue : the bright
silks of this regency are also highly esteemed all over Barbary, for
making the scarfs usually worn by females. The tanning, and prepa-
ration of hides and other skins, is very well understood by the Moors;
and the Morocco leather, by which all coloured skins are called in
Barbary, is made to great perfection in Algiers : they also make very

«= For ail account of the curious process of making olive oil, see Keatii.ge's Morocco,
partii, p. 22I.-AV/.

TRADE. 247

fine carpets, called hiram ; but they mostly pride themselves in the
manafactory of Scialli shawls ; which, considering their quality, are
sold at a much cheaper rate than those of the Levant. Baskets, and
various other convenient ornaments, are formed out of the palm tree
leaf, many of which look as fine as silk, and nothing' can exceed the
beauty of their mats made of the fine rushes of Labez.

But of all African manufactures, that of its otto of roses, is by
far the most celebrated : this exquisite flower yields double the quan-
tity of essence in Barbary, to what it does in Europe ; the finest
and most precious, called nessari, is distilled from the white rose. It
is strange, that with their present inqjerfect knowledge of chemistry,
the Moors sliouhl be so mu<'h better versed in the distillation of
this flower than Europeans : to their remarkable talent in this way,
may be added, uncommon patience and attention towards bringing
the essence to perfection. Seeing- the old Moors, with their venerable
beards and flowing mantles, silting in solemn silence, and gravely
holding the balance, into which they pour the otto with infallible
exactness; I often figured to myself, Time dispensing pleasure in
drops, and scrupulously weighing all the enjoyments of life.

The present limited trade of Algiers is chiefly conducted by Jews.
Grain is generally sold at very low prices, though none can be
exported without a tischera, or written permit, bearing the Dey'sseal.
A similar licence is necessary before any oil, of which such large
quantities are made, can be shipped : this article is principally sent
to Ottoman ports ; more especially Bosetta and Damietta in Egypt.
It is also necessary to obtain a permit before cattle, sheep, and goats
can be embarked ; and fowls must be killed previous to leaving the shore.

The chief articles supplied by Algiers to foreign countries, con-
sist of coarse linens, cotton, raisins, dried figs, honey, wax, dates,
biocades, taflety, muslin, tobacco, sugar and coflTee : the two latter,
are the fruits of piracy ; ostrich feathers, otto of roses, gold dust,
brought by the caravans ; grain and cattle. It is also an excellent
place to make purchases in shawls, whether of home or foreign
manufacture.

248 riiADK.

There is a consideiable demand in tins place for various comuio-
dities; but owing to the many duties, uncertainty of payment, diffi-
culties thrown in the way of exportation, and frequent exactions of the
Deyand his officers, fewspeculators are encouraged to visit the Regency.
Foreign wines pay an excessive impost : fine gunpowder and flints
sell remarkably well, the latter being generally very scarce; and
the powder made in the country is found much too weak for small
anns. Deals, prepared ship timber, wrought iron, cannon, fire-arms,
and naval stores of every kind, find a ready sale in Algiers. The
coral fishery, which is chiefly conducted by Sardinians and Corsicans,
is exchanged in large quantities for gold dust ; which the Algerine
merchants receive from Sansandang, and other interior kingdoms.
One of the most lucrative sources of traffic, though so highly di'^graceful
to European merchants, is derived from the sale of property plundered
by the corsairs: many of these, follow in the pirates' train, as the jackall
does in that of the lion.

South of the Algerine territory, and towards the Tunisian fron-
tier, there is a particular race, called the Cadensi or Gademis, who
carry on a constant trade with the interior regions of Africa, whence
they bring gold dust, ostrich feathers, dates, &c. Their returns from
Algiers consist of Turkish daggers, small looking-glasses, beads,
knives, scissars, tobacco, and great quantities of salt, which is
hiuhly prized in most parts of this vast continent. The extreme
probity observed in all dealings between the Gademis and African
nations, has often excited the admiration of travellers : the Moorish
merchant, having placed what he has for sale in a particular spot,
retires : the negroe dealer then advances, and if disposed to purchase,
lays down the quantity of gold dust, or other material he is inclined
to give in exchange close to it : on withdrawing in his turn, the Moor
goes back, and if he finds the deposited articles equivalent to his own,
he takes them away, leaving the latter : on the other hand, should the
articles left be unequal to his wishes, he removes the goods ; when, if
after a little time, the negroe's offering is not increased, their negocia-
tion terminates, and they all depart. Whenever their contracts are

MONEY. 240

mutually satisfactory, and this is generally the case, reciprocal
demonstrations of friendship take place, and they often travel in com-
pany with each other for several days.

There is not much money to be seen in Algiers, at least, the
quantity seldom increases from credit or circulation : it is more
frequently diminished by hoarding and concealment under ground ;
the result of that uncertainty and violence, peculiar to the mandates
of an arbitrary government. Naturally economical, the 3Ioors are
always intent on accumulating ; they know also, that money is like
time : they who do not squander it away, are seldom without a
sufficient supply.

The doubloon and dollar of Spain are the first in circulation
and credit at Algiers ; guineas lose by going there : the sultanas of
gold, somewhat smaller than a sequin, pass for two dollars : the other
coins, are the pataca gorda, or current dollar; which is equal to
three of ours in Italy : the pataca cJdca, an ideal money, equivalent
to two hundred aspri. The smaller coins circulated in the regency,
are called mussona, equal to about four soldi of Italy : marahuto, of
.still less value ; the tornino, which fonns an eighth part of the
pataca chica ; and saime, another imaginary standard, equal to fifty
aspri: the latter is of silver, but so exceedingly diminutive, that it
slips from the hand in counting : two or three hundred being necessary
for the most trifling payment. The shop-keepers have plates of copper
upon which they spread tlie aspri, to render the counting more easy ;
but this is, at best, a most annoying and tedious operation, which
nothing less than the perseverance of a Moor could get over. They
are, for hours together, employed in counting and recounting a
sum that would not exceed ten pence of our money ; but what could
they do, if deprived of this interesting occupation, their pipe, and
the glorious privilege of sitting cross-legged for at least ten hours
during the day l

Money changers are to be found in every corner of the city : they
change dollars without any other profit than that of occasionally
throwing in a few spurious aspri ; which, fi-om the trouble it gives to

K K

250 MEN OF LETTERS.

examine them, generally escapes detection. Some of the Moors also
contrive to amuse themselves in clipping- the circulating medium, for
which they are very rarely punished : it does not happen to them, as
to the culprit, who was condemned to the gallies for encroaching rather
too closely on the inscriptions which surrounded his sovereign's
coinage ; and being interrogated as to his motives, replied, that they
originated in his foiulness for the belles lettres !

A mere handful of Turkish adventurers having triumphed over
peaceful nations, and violently succeeded in establishing the atrocious
governments of Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoly, the clouds of ignorance
and barbarism soon involved the whole extent of country between
Cape Spartel and Alexandria; obliterating, as it were, the recollection
of its civilization under the kings of Numidia and 3Iauritania. Not to
mention the succeeding lights of Arabic learning, which illumined this
part of Africa in after times; at present, it would be ditiicult to conceive,
that this was the country, in which the celebrated astronomer Abu-
viaser tlonrished ; or Giber, one of the fathers of alchymy and che-
mical science ; Alf'arabe al Ascari, who first applied the peripatetic
philosophy to Islamism, and gave rise to a famous school, called the
Assareti, so famous in Spain ; or the equally celebrated orthodox
<loctor, Eseferez Esachelli, author of the gi"eat work on cosmography,
entitled Spatiatorum Locum, who, in order the better to pursue his
studies, did not put liis eyes out, but saw that there was no chance of
philosophizing in a court, and therefore abandoned that of Ruggiero,
king of Sicily, for a tranquil retirement on the coast of Africa ; Ibni
al Chat il Raisi, the most eloquent speaker, and best poet of his day;
who, while at Fez, recited a poem, containing such a pathetic detail
of the sufferings of Abu Habdilla, king of Granada, that it induced
the government and populace to espouse his cause, and restore him to
his throne ;* and Isaac ben Erram, that told his master, who had

* The iniquitous and ungrateful Habdilla, afterwards became the bittere.st enemy of
his benefactor ; and having persuaded the king of Fez to give him up, he caused the
unhappy man to be cruelly murdered.

DFFFUSION OF KNOWLEDGE.

associated him to another medical man, with whom he could not
agree in opinion, that the diifering of two doctors Mas worse than a
qnartan atfue! We no longer recognize in the degenerate Moor,
those gallant chiefs who ornamented the splendid courts of Granada
and Cordova, and enjoyed the luxuries of GeueruUf, or founded the
Alhambra and Zehra.

Printing, that great source of European improvement, has not as
yet been introduced into Barbary ; arising as much from the opposition
of the respective governments to a farther diffusion of knowledge, as
the fear of depriving numberless copyists of occupation and bread.
Thus there is neither a free communication of ideas, or the smallest
advance towards perfection. The men of letters, who are called
Alfugui and Talhi, principally consist of impostors who make use of
the few talents they possess, for no other purpose than that of keeping
the populace in a state of the utmost ignorance. The Imans and
Musselmen, exclusively devoted to the study of the Koran, (a book
fxiU of absurdities, mixed with a few poetic flights, and overcharged
by its inflexible doctrine of fatalism,) form an apparently insurmount-
able barrier to the dissemination of knowledge or science : with them
it is even a crime to learn the Arabic, or receive the smallest instruc-
tion from a stranger. Mahomet has been, in fact, the greatest enemy
human reason ever encountered. Men who were full of his ferocious
spirit, exclaimed, that God would punish the Caliph Al Mamon, for
having introduced the sciences into his states, to the detriment of that
holy ignorance recommended by the prophet to all true believers; —
and that if any person dared to imitate him, he ought to be impaled,
and then carrietl through the tribes, preceded by a herald who was to
cry with a loud voice, " Behold, the recompense of that impious wretch
who shall prefer philosophy to tradition, and his proud reason to the
precepts of the divine Koran !"

All the instruction given to children, consists in sending the boys
to school, where they are merely taught to read and rejjeat fifty or
sixty aphorisms from the Koran. When capable of this gigantic

KK 2

252 LITERARY TALENTS.

effort of learning and science, the pupil's education is complete ; and
as a reward for his diligence, as well as to excite emulation in others,
he is paraded round the city on horseback ; — feasts are given by his
parents ; — he becomes the envy of his play fellows ; — and the peda-
gogue retires covered with glory !

All the wit of these people, when occupied in literary subjects,
consists of making enigmas and charades in verse, which others are
obliged to solve in rhyme : some of these occasionally possess a little
point and ingenuity, but neither powerful thought or noble sentiment
is manifested. The exclusion of women from their society has been
justly adduced as one great cause of that total absence of taste
and feeling evinced in the selfish meetings of Musselmen : they
abandon themselves to the impetuous fire of imagination, which is
always irregular, if not, like the electric spark, guided by its con-
ductor. The language of slavery is generally made up of bombast;
while that of liberty is simple and energetic. Although not entirely
devoid of fancy, there is at present no very distinguished poet in
Barbary. They can sing of ordinary and passing events ; but no bril-
liant thovights proceed from the heart. The Muses are not fond of
chains ; nor do I know of any fine poetic composition w Inch has
sprung from the degraded leisure of servitude.

It cannot, however, be doubted, that by a rational mode of public
instruction, the inhabitants of northern Africa might shortly become
an enlightened and illusti-ious people, as their ancestors were in
better days. Alkindi, a philosopher, who lived during the Caliph
Almosatem's reign, once showed to an interpreter of the laws
that stigmatised his fame, the difference which exists between
ignorant superstition and illuminated philosophy. Though he
might, from his influence and favour at the court of Bagdad, have
easily ruined his enemy, he preferred the more generous mode of
converting the asperser into a friend ; for this purpose he observed,
" Your religion commands you to calumniate me, while mine incul-
cates the necessity of endeavouring to make you a better man and

CIVILIZATION. 253

more valuable member of society: come, therefore, that I may instruct
you ; after whicli, if in the same temper of mind, you are at liljerty
to destroy me." What does the reader imagine the sage of Basra
taught his new disciple ? Geometry : that alone was sufficient totally
to change his barbarous sentiments, into others of gratitude and
friendship. Such, too, as observed by a great writer, is the manner
in which all superstitious and uncivilized nations should be converted.
By causing mathematicians and men of science to precede the missionary,
a rude peojile are taught to combine simple and natural ideas, before
they are called upon to comprehend the most abstruse of all subjects,
the attributes and power of the Divinity. Reflecting on the present
mode of conversion, which is, no doubt, encouraged from the purest
motives of philanthrojjy, it is as if we could expeci children to read,
without first teaching them the alphabet. It cannot be expected, that
modes of improvement, which are rejected by more enlightened nations,
should enter into the contemplation of the most terrible of all other
sectaries, the followers of Mahomet : they find it more consonant to
their barbarous policy to cover the horse's eyes, who is condemned to
grind the corn; and, strange to reflect, the people thus led, are
apparently contented and slavishly sui)missive. This indifference to be
instructed, is, however, a singular paradox : where all those who happen
to acquire a greater degree of wisdom than their more illiterate neigh-
bours, arrive at the highest dignities ; and the really learned, almost
pass for saints: an honour which is very far from being accorded to the
European philosopher, or man of letters.*

* It is, indeed, " a consummation most devoutly to be wished," that the momentous
subject thus slightly alluded to, may continue to occupy the attention of all civilized
nations, until the grand desideratum of finding out a less erroneous and more effectual
mode of bringing man back to the dignity of his nature, is discovered. Having for many
years deeply reflected on ihe paramount importance of this object, and felt the full force
of that obligation imposed on us all by religion, reason, and humanity, to rescue the whole
of God's creation from barbarism, I cannot be persuaded to believe, that we are not still
in our infancy, as far as relates to the great work of civilizing unknown regions. Much

254 THE PEN.

All those who have conceived an adequate idea of the power of
a pen, when properly managed, need not be surprised at its eftects
being so dreaded by the despots of Barbary. Strong as the club of
Hercules, and sharp as the scimitar of Scanderbeg, a man of
genius, with a pen in his hand, moves in a sphere of his own crea-
tion : shut np in his study, he menaces, fulminates, thunders, and
comman<ls destiny itself: it is he who immortalizes the actions of
heroes, and unveils the most important truths. The j>en is also
employed to defend injured innocence, and oppressed virtue : it inspires

as England may take credit to herself for having during the last fifty years led the way in
promoting discovery, few who consider the magnitude of the object to be accomplished,
can deny, that, independent of those incessant political struggles which have withdrawn
the attention of government from such pursuits; nearly all our expeditions have been con-
ducted on a scale, which, though liberal in itself, was very far from being adequate to all
the objects in view. I am, indeed, fully aware of the innumerable difiBculties which
oppose the progress of new discoveries, and of the still more disheartening task of reducing
savage nations to a state of civilization. But will any one contend that the efforts hitherto
employed by the European powers have increased, as they most unqueslionably should, in
proportion to these obstacles? Since the voyages of Captain Cook, the last of which
terminated in 1780, a period of thirty-eight years has been suffered to elapse without our
undertaking any thing in the way of exploring, worthy of so great a nation. Yet a much
smaller sum of money, and an infinitely less number of human lives, than foreign wars
have cost us, would probably have enabled Great Britain alone, to have sown the seeds of
civilization and Christianity all over the habitable globe! ! ! Into what a labyrinth of thought
is not this reflection calculated to plunge the most frigid reasoner ? When the tremendous
magnitude of this object is considered, with what extreme pity must not a philosophic
mind regard the occasional puny efforts of different governments, in sending off one or two
vessels, intended to communicate knowledge and happiness to tens of millions, while a
military adventurer, like Buonaparte, could by a senatus consultum, call out six hundred
thousand human beings, and arm them for the purpose of destroying and plundering the
species! Heaven knows, the spirit of discord and malevolence has been long enough suf-
fered to devastate Europe and America. When banished from the last named country, it is
sincerely to be hoped, that we shall no longer slumber over the great duties which it is so
completely in our power to perform, with respect to the uncivilized part of the universe.
It only requires a simultaneous movement of all the European sovereigns, in favour of one
grand and combined system of exploration ; and the oldest amongst us may yet live to see
that day, when all the crimes and follies of Europe, would be more than expiated by a
certain prospect of the whole human race being emancipated from the fetters of barbarism.

THE PEi\. 255

magnanimity of sentiment, and niarks the guilty lor punishment. Tlie
pen preserves our fngitive ideas, gives an impulse to thought, approxi-
mates tl»e sighing lover to the object of his affections, and enables us
to converse with the absent. More powerful than the voice, which is
only a transitory sound, the pen can never be enchained : that which
it writes, is spread abroad, penetrates to the interior of palaces, and
eternally remains. To this we are indebted for the greatest wonders :
M'hen the poet takes the pen, the most harmonious numbers flow from
it ; and in proportion to their merit, it is either a pen of gold or of

Then, as one great family, they might look up to their Creator, animated by a common
faith, founded on tlie .sublimest of all dogmas, that of " Doing to others, as tee would
they should do unto us .'"

Warmed by the contemplation of ray subject, the possibility of a scheme like the
above, has led to a feeling of exultation in what might be effected; which, alas ! the recol-
lection of those minor interests that agitate the world, is but too soon calculated to destroy.
Enthusiasm is sometimes useful, and often necessary : I will not therefore relinquish mine,
until every hope of seeing my favourite system put into effect, has entirely vanished. At
present, I confess myself to be extremely sanguine; and draw the most flattering inferences,
not only from the general state of the civilized world, but from that disposition, which some
sovereigns evince to comply with the rational desires of their people, expressed from the
awful tribunal of public opinion ; and that opinion is decidedly philanthropic. I forbear
entering into needless details, as no individual plan, however perfect, could possibly
embrace so complicated a design. It may, however, be proper to inform the reader, that
I am not one of the champions of perfectibility : if I were, the sad reality of the times would
soon bring me back to reason; but I will say with a great living character, that, if the
golden age is not the lot of the present generation, yet, should it have been marked out
for any part of human existence, I trust it will be found, not in that which is past, but
in some part still to come ; and then ask every unbiassed friend of truth, whether it is not
as easy to enter into an alliance for the dissemination of knowledge, as the preservation
of political power ? Also, if he can, by his utmost stretch of thought, conceive a more
glorious spectacle for the Divinity, than that of looking down upon the creatures of his
hand, availing themselves of the wisdom he has afforded them, for the benign purpose of
communicating it to the rest of his creation ; instead of living m a state of interminable
warfare, and bitter hatred of each other, influenced by passions which constantly degrade
them below the level of brutes? Until these simple interrogatories are answered, so as to
destroy my hopes, the most uncharitable will not blame me for cherishing the delightful
dream of human happiness I hare figured to myself, in the ardent wish, that a future
generation may witness its entire accomplishment. — Ed.

256 MEN OF THE PEN.

fire ! In the hands of a vhtuous prince, the pen signs a deed of
mercy, concedes an act of grace, and renders happiness to a fellow
creature. A beautiful woman takes the pen, it traces her inmost
desires : does the man of honour receive an insult, his pen writes, and
the offender trembles. There is no possibility of approaching a great
man ; our pen supersedes the necessity of a personal interview : ashamed
to make a tender confession, the pen confides it to a .sheet of paper:
are we desirous of praising a fine composition ; it is said to be written
with a flowing pen: a sublime author is extolled; his pen is beautiful,
grand and spirited : is a corrupt judge, or perfidious lawyer to be
punished, the pen is taken from him.

Mahomet has entitled one of his most important chapters. The
Pen ; commencing thus, " I swear by the Divine Pen !" — It goes on
to say, " It is an article of faith, to believe that this Pen was created
by the finger of God. Made of pearls, a rider who should go at full
speed for a hundred years, would with great difficulty reach the end
of it ; the ink at its point is composeil of a subtle light, extracted from
the sun and stars. The archangel Raphael, is the only being who
can decypher the characters written by this brilliant and sparkling
tint. This pen has a hundred minor ones subservient to it, which
will not cease to write night and day, until the end of time : that
which has happened, happens ; and will happen !"

The erudite and wise men of Barbary, are pompously called,
" Men of the Pen." This epithet is also applied to an inventory,
their album, or memorandum books : wherein the Musselmen are in
the habit of writing extracts, and depositing their grave thoughts or
conversations with men of learning. I could not, however, find out the
happy flights or other good things contained in the Moorish memo-
randa. It has been said of those blank books, or albums, so common
in London and Paris, and in which all the ladies are obliged to write
something, whether in verse or in prose, that they are like certain
individuals who lose in candour what they gain in wit. But with the
album of Barbary, the case is somewhat reversed : these lose in can-

THE PEN. 257

dour without gaining- in wit : as from all I could collect on the sub-
ject, their utmost merit consists in a iew worn-out citations from the
Alcoran, and occasionally one or two trivial sentences, often repeated
as important truths.

\yhile at Algiers, I w as once induced to ask an Ulema, if his book,
called the Pen, contained any of his public speeches, a copy of his verses,
or even some of his enigmas. He answered, that so much had been already
written, that people should rather destroy than create ; true study
consisted in separating the good from the bad, and tinallyselectingthat
which was really worth reading. These observations surprised me a
good deal, in coming from a Mahometan ; and I could not help be-
coming a convert to his opinions ; but I thought him insufferably
presumptuous when he afterwards asserted, that he could not only
select himself, but teach others to do so ; and concluded by informing
me, that his principal occupation consisted in approving of what was
worthy of being read or studied, which he did both in ancient and
modern works, by placing his seal and signature on the title page of
each work. In one sense, indeed, this literary colossus might well
be called a good pen and great writer !

An obscure and unknown individual, being once elevated to a
professorship in a celebrated university, had no sooner arrived at the
seat of learning, than he proceeded to leave his card at the different
houses of the fraternity : the latter, on observing Professor * * *
written on them, lost in conjecture as to the history of their
new coadjutor, began to ask each other, " Who knows him?"
"Who is this man?" "What has he written?" a person present,
answered, " He has written his name!" ^

* Anarlicle, entitled " La Penna," and notdiffering very materially fromsomepartsof
theabove,has already appeared iu the Giornale Italico, a periodical work, for some years pub-
lished in London, but now discontinued. Soon after Mr. Pananti's leaving England, one of
those persons to whom he was indebted for his subsequent misfortunes, having retained a
copy, sent it into the world under his own name ; first making a few alterations, in the
hope of imposing it ou the public as an original. This new instance of perfidy was

L L

25S EGOTISM.

While at Algiers, I one day entered tlie school of an alfagui,
or learned man ; he was surrounded by a great number of disciples,
and looked as grave as Dionysius at Corinth. This pedant was so
vain and self-sufficient, that when mentioning his own name, he
accompanied it by a profound inclination of the head, invariably
making two syllables of the word I. Nor did he leave me any reason
to doubt, that he thought himself fully equal to the legislative warrior;
for in pronouncing his name, he was satisfied with merely repeating
Mahomed, or the son oi Abdullah ; while in more instances than one,
I was informed that his own was, Abn Ebner Ibn Bakari Ben Cocubi!
Notwithstanding all this superficial bombast, he had the talent of
persuading his scholars, that there was not such another sage in the
kiniydom, or a more important personage ; and had thus been enabled
to establish a degree of subordination and discipline amongst them
which I never saw equalled in any part of Europe. It is told of an
English monarch, that having once paid a visit to Eton College, in
going round with the head master, his majesty ke})t off his hat while
the former remained covered: on shewing the king to his carriage,
the master then took his own off, and making a low bow, apologized
for his apparent want of respect; and still afFecting an air of supe-
riority, added, " Sire, if I had not acted in this way, and the scholars
did not think me the first man in your dominions, they would no
longer obey me !"

amongst the number of many other not very agreeable discoveries, made by the author on
his return from Algiers. In thus reclaiming his stolen property, Mr. P. very properly
observes, " finding the rook ornamented with my feathers, I shall take them back ; but
do not, in thus asserting my right, plunder any one :

Sebben né furto è il mio, né ladro io sono.

Giusto è ritor quel che a gran torto è tolto.
Would that I could as easily recover all that the Algerines, and those whoare equallyas bad,
bereft me of, since I left England!" This is followed by a cutting casfigalion of the
literary pirate ; the translation of which is omitted, from motives similar to those stated in
the early part of the volume. — Ed.

A STILL TONGUE MAKES A WISE HEAD. 259

I became acquainted with anotlier alfagui, in one of the principal
kioscos of the city. Speak, that I may know you, is an old proverb ;
but all my efforts to draw this sapient character into conversation
were completely inetfectual. He was like Apollo, whose oracles were
delivered i'rom a cave, into which the sun's rays never entered : he
might, perhaps, have possessed talents, but they were deeply hidden
within ; and an occasional monosyllable was all I could ever extract
from him. I was sometimes led to imagine, that he might have been a
shrewd politician, who was not over anxious for any body to take the
length of his foot. Silence is frequently a great art. On the other hand,
this learned gentleman was extremely careful never to commit him-
self, by saying, " I don't know :" he seemed more anxious that his
silence should pass for wisdom. This is also an important qualifica-
tion, which has often been taught, and is by no means difficult to
be learnt. A person having once confided to a friend, the frequent
mortification he experienced on being generally obliged to remain
silent, for want of more extensive information in a society where
various interesting questions were propounded, concluded his com-
plaints, by requesting to be informed whether there was not a method
of cutting a better figure in conversation, without compromising one's
judgment by making blunders. " Nothing can be easier," replied
his friend : " I'll soon put you in the way of becoming a perfect oracle
in all companies. In the first place, whenever you hear any persons
disputing on subjects of importance, be careful to preserve a respect-
ful silence; but watching the speaker with a significant look, indicate
your disapprobation by a slight shake of the head ; and when dis-
posed to applaud, let a gentle smile play on your countenance : an
occasional hum will also be of great use. The chami>ions being worn
out with arguing, and no longer able to continue in the field, it is
your time to enter the lists : assuming a grave aspect, therefore, you
are in a dignified tone thus to express yourself, — " a great deal more
may certainly be said on this subject ;" — and then resume your usual
taciturnity. The company will judge from this specimen of eloquence,
L L 2

'260 MEDICAL HRACTITIONERS.

that yoii can see much farther into the point in dispute, than many of
those who have wasted hours in idle talking ; but that you are deterred
from giving- your opinion, lest their patience might be already
exhausted. Thus flattered, they will even be grateful for your
considerate forliearance in not making them swallow another disser-
tation."

It will be easily conceived, that medical science is not in a
very flourishing state in this part of the world. The Moorish doctors
are called Tliibib, whose only theoretical knowledge is derived from a
Spanish translation of Dioscorides : — alchymy is also a favourite study
with them. Their mode of treatment would appear .somewhat original
to an European practitioner ; particularly that of pouring melted butter
over recent wounds. For the rheumatism, they make punctures with
a lancet on the joints which are most affected. To an obstinate sore,
fire is applied; and in cases of inflammation, the part is covered with
the leaves of certain medicinal plants. To the bites of scorpions or
.serpents, they apply masticated garlick and onions. External remedies
are the only ones in which a medical professor of Barbary has any
faith ; nor can he be persuaded how a draught or pill conveyed to the
stomach, can cure a head-ache : so that, if a patient complain of the
latter, a blister is immediately put on, as near the seat of pain a.s
possible. In some other disorders, the Algerine doctor has been known
to fill a sick man's mouth with honey, until suftbcation ensued. They
are also complete followers of Sangrado's .system ; and, like him,
would sacrifice every thing in support of their opinions. According
to them, bleeding is an infallible cure for all disorders; as these
are said invariably to arise from fullness and inflammation in the
circulating fluid. With the most simple method, and concise nomen-
clature, they cannot be compared to those disciples of Galen and
Hippocrates, who were so great in their profession, as to have even
invented new maladies.

When a sick man is disposed of in Barbary, he is turned with his
face tov^ards Mecca : his death is, however, generally accelerated by the

MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS. 261

noisy lamentations of friends, who assemble in the room for some
hours before the breath is yielded. The Moors think every European
a doctor ; as those who live on the other side of the Alps, believe all
the Italians are singers. Many give themselves up to empirics, who,
amongst other modes of cure, have recourse to charms and incanta-
tions: while submitting to the prescription of doctors, their firm belief
in predestination and fatalism, destroys all faith in the certaintj^ of
his remedies ; so that few precautions are ever taken beforeliand, every
thing being lefttodestiny. There are some, who will perhaps be inclined
to esteem the Mahometans for not being overburthened with confidence
in their doctors, whose sins are generally of the mortal kind : nor is
there, I dare say, much doubt of their giving many a man his pass-
port to the other world.

A commissary, being once charged to deliver certain papers to
the captains of some ships, that were on the point of .sailing, amongst
the rest, was called upon by a medical man on different business ;
but from the latter's having the appearance of a .seafaring person, the
captain's tirst question was, "Pray which vessel do you command t"
To which the son of Esculajjius replied, " Why, I command the boat
of Chaion." A doctor, who got up from table in great haste, said to
his friends, " Pray excuse me, gentlemen, as I have three or four
patients to dispatch."* But to speak more seriously, is it not as bad
as killing one's self, to reject medical advice, from mere popular pre-
judice! The doctor tries his skill, and if not the mo.st enlightened
practitioner, he will at least be more likely to do good than harm, in
the long trodden path of his profession. A blind man is often enabled
to move about in his native place, with as much facility as many
strangers who are blessed with sight. Charles Fox used to say, —
" I always do what the doctors desire me ; and if I die, it will not
then be my fault !"

^'■- The comedy of the ".Sick Lover" contains a facetious dialogue between the phy-
sician of an hospital and a surgeon, who calls on the former to request he would supply
him with a subject, upon whom he is desirous of making some important anatomical

262 A LOST SUBJECT.

demonstrations and experiments. The sick lover lays stretched in an adjoining bed, aud
would just answer his purpose. " I have there," says the doctor, " a poor devil, who
cannot hold out much longer, and seems to have beeu born for you. — He has a cough,
which almost takes away his breath, aud his stomach is like a cauldron : take my word for
it he'll not tell many more tales ; but approach and judge for yourself." The surgeon then
advances, and on seeing the sick man, exclaims, " Aye, he'll make a beautiful corpse,
indeed ! 1 should give him the preference over a hundred ;" and turning to the physician,
says, " But, tell me, brother, how soon can you deliver him up to me ?" " Why," answered
the doctor, " I imagine he won't last longer than till about two o'clock."- — " Yes, but I
can't return till five," rejoined the surgeon ; " won't you be able to spin him out for me till
that hour?" — "l'Udo what I can," replied the doctor, "and hope, with the aid of sopo-
rifics and stimulants, to keep him alive till the hour you mention." The convention
agreed on, no time was lost by the physician in fulfilling his promise. He first administered
a slight stimulating draught, which soon produced such miraculous effects on the devoted
lover that in less than half an hour, he opens his eyes, raises his head, and puts his feet
out of the bed: these preliminary symptoms are soon followed by his descending into the
court amongst the convalescents, without being observed by the doctor, who had left him
on giving the medicine : returning in a little time, he goes to the lover's bed, confident
that it is all over with him, and to his great astonishment, finds it empty. This is still
farther increased, when on going to the window, he sees the sick man walking backwards
and forwards, perfectly upright with the other patients. How is the disappointed doctor
to excuse himself to the surgeon ? By the way of completing his embarrassment, the
latter comes in before his (ime, saying, " Well ! here I am ; all ready to take away what
you promised : is the subject ready ? I suppose it's a little wawm yet ?" The doctor, with

a troubled air, " My dear Sir " " What's the matter?"—" I am really very sorry,

but " "Oh ! I understand, he was already promised." — " Far from it," replied the

doctor ; and then proceeds to relate the melancholy adventure, which ended in the sick
man's unexpected resurrection. He adds, that wishing to spin him out, he had com-
pletely overdone the business, as the first dose made him jump out of bed, as if nothing
had been the matter with him. The surgeon, with whom it was no Joke, gave him a most
serious look ; and said, he thought he had to deal with a man of honour ; instead of which,
the doctor had only trifled with his feelings ; and concluded by observing, that when a
mau pledged his word, it should be religiously kept.

ARTS AND SCIENCES. W^

CHAPTER XIV.

i^hde of the Arts in Barbary. — Curious Cement and Glue. — Lctnguages of
Northern Africa. — Anecdote.— Moorish Music. — Different Instruments. —
Singing. — Islamism. — Ridiculous Customs. — Strict Observance of Fasts.—
Sanctuary afforded by Mosques, ^c. — Holy City. — Paradise of Musselmen.
— Pilgrimage to Mecca. — Order of the March, and Allusion to the Ceremo-
nies performed thei-e. — Marabouts. — Anecdote. — Vaili, or Saints, their Hypo-
crisy illustrated. — Facility of being canonized in Barbary. — The Mufti. —
Tiieir Office and Potcers. — Mode of deciding legal Questions and administering
the Laws. — Thehnans. — The Muezzins, and Hours of Prayer. — The Koran. —
Short Analysis of its Contents.— Anecdote of Dorat, the French Poet. — Comr-
mentators on the Koran, éfc.

The Moors have no idea of sculpture or design, both being prohi-
bited by their rebgious precepts, which entirely exclude the use of
images, or other representations of living objects. If a picture is
shewn to them, its excellence is no recommendation : they are dazzled
by the variety of tint in a painting, but have no conception of it as
an imitative art. In arcliitecture, they are more deeply versed, and
build with considerable solidity, while the ornamental part is scarcely
considered. The princi[)al cement used at Algiers is called tabby ;
and consists of two portions of wood ashes, three of lime, and one of
sand : while mixing up, there is a quantity of oil added, and the
whole is beaten with shovels for three successive days, until it has
acquired the necessary consistence : exposed to the air, it becomes as
hard as marble, antl equally impenetrable to all the effects of the
atmosphere. Who knows, but this curious mortar may have been
originally brought into Mauritania by the Romans, and that the

264 LANGUAGE.

people of Barbaiy have thus preserved the important secret ; which
has given such amazing stabilit}^ to all the ancient remains of this
country and Italy Ì The question is by no means uninteresting, and
will probably occupy the attention of future travellers. The
Moorish artisans also prepare a species of glue, from new cheese,
out of uhich care is taken to extract all the milk : to this is added,
some of the finest quick lime, which renders it perfectly inaccessible
to the eftects of humidity. It is strange, that possessing such large
quantities of excellent saltpetre, they should be so very backward in
the manufacture of gunpowder, particularly the finer sort.

If we except the mere mechanical arts, there is nothing to excite
much praise in Moorish industry ; all their ingenuity being applied to
those trades, most useful in supplying the connnon necessaries of life.
Speaking of my unfortunate companion, Terreni, the minister of
the marine once observed to Mr. M" Donnei and myself: "he is a
great acquisition to us : we know him to be a famous artist, and
shall lose no time in setting hini about painting our ships I"

Alluding to the language of Barbary, it is truly singular, that the
Punic should be so totally lost, as to have left no trace behind, except
what we occasionally see on theNumidian coins. As to the Berbera,
it has no connection whatever with the Arabic ; which may be called
the mother tongue of all the guttural languages of the East. That
which is called shavia or shillah, by the Kabiles, possesses a charac-
ter of originality, which has often been compared to that of the
Hebrew. There is also said to be a most striking similarity between
the Berbera and Chinese.

The language used by the indigenous inhabitants of northern
Africa, is extremely barren, and little more than the jargon of half
civilized people : being very deficient in abstract terminations, con-
junctive particles, and various terms of the substantive kind ; all of
which tliey are obliged to take from the Arabic. Languages are like
articles of commerce : to enrich those who deal in them, they must be
reciprocally exchanged. Towards Mount Atlas, there is another

LANGUAGE. 265

tongue spoken, which is said to have considerable affinity to that of
Nigratia : and many of the Moors told me, it was both expressive and
sont>rous. The Be^louins pretend to an exclusively elegant mode of
speaking- and pronouncing the Arabic; but that has also experienced
a good deal of corruption, which generally increases, in proportion to
the distance an Arab is removed from the seat of its original promul-
gation. Some have, however, asserted, that it is much better spoken
in Barbary than Egypt. In speaking Arabic amongst the Moors,
the higher orders with difficulty understand each other ; while Turkish
is adopted in the divan and council of state. The public functiona-
ries, mercliauts, and Jews on the coast, communicate in a Lingua
Franca, indiscriminately composed of Spanish, Italian, and corrupt
Arabic. Although all the verbs of this gibberish are used in the
infinitive, and it has no prepositions, both strangers and natives are
very well able to make it intelligible to each other.

Many of the African terminations are not altogether devoid of
force and harmony ; as, fv»r example : aksion, meat ; sham, wheat ;
chamu, wine; Jiuff, a fowl; jubiutl, a little girl; kalm, coffee;
karamoe, honour ; mora, a woman ; valeal, a young boy ; arghez,
a man ; thamurt, land ; and nsarum, bread. I could have easily
recollected a mucli greater number of words, but doubted whether it
was likely to be of any use. The Guardian Basha, and Rais Hamida,
frequently told me, I ought to make a point of learning the Arabic ;
but if I had, to what purpose could it lead ? The celebrated English
statesman, Lord Godolphin, one day asked Mr. Rowe, if he knew
the Spanish : the poet replied, " that he understood it tolerably
well ; but that he could, in two or three months, become perfect
master of it." " You should do so," said the minister. On this,
Rowe, thinking that he was intended for some important post or
mission, in which a knowledge of the above language was necessary,
immediately retired into the country ; and, returning to London after
three months of the closest application, waited on his expected patron
to inform him, that, according to the latter's recommendation, he had

M M

200 MUSIC.

studied Spanish, until it had become as familiar to him as his mother-
tongue. " How I envy your happiness!" said the statesman : "■ it is
now in your power to read Don Quixote in the original!" I wonder
what comfort I could have derived from a knowledge of the Arabic,
except that of reading the Alcoran, and its three thousand, three
hundred and eighty connnentators.*

The Arab legislator has, together with all games of chance,
and dancing, also proscribed music and singing : the imaum, or com-
mentators, have launched forth the most fulminating threats against
all those who listen with pleasure to the " harmony of sweet sounds."
But these barbarous injunctions have not succeeded in preventing
most of the faithful trom being extremely fond of music; particularly
the instiumental kind. The rich and great generally keep instru-
ments ; and many of them, in travelling through the country, are
accompanied hy musicians, who play a variety of airs at ditì'erent
intervals, while the Moors, seated on some verdant rising ground,
seem absorbed in voluptuous ecstacy.

Music is, however, absolutely prohibited in the mosques : regarded
as a profanation by the imans, it is only tolerated by the force of
custom, and impossibility of even the most savage nations being-
deprived of its consoling and electrifying effect. A celebrated popular
preacher, having once introduced a i'ew airs, selected from the most
esteemed operas, into his church service, being reproved by his
friends, for thus adapting profane sounds to so holy a purpose,
answered, " surely you do not wish the devil to monopolize all the
fine tunes'?"

While indifferent to vocal music, the Moor, who plays tolerably
well on any instrument, will gain more money, than ten of their
literati. There are, also, many amateur perfonners, but these always
practice at home ; thinking it a degradation to appear in public as

* Pope used to say, that if he had any daughters, they should never b;^ taught a
foreigu language ; one being enough for, and even rather too much for a woman ! — Ed.

MUSIC. 267

musicians ; which, as they say, should be confined to those who get
their livelihood by it.

Their [)rincipal instruments are, the urabehbak, of the violin-
cello species, with one string ; the vebeb, or Moorisli violin, having
two strings ; and which is played on with a bow, like the violin-
cello ; the gasuph, a species of octave flute ; and the taun, which
is the tlmpanum of the ancients. I also saw a few badly strung vio-
lins, like those of Europe, on which the Moors played, in the manner
of our double bass, or violincello. They always play from memory,
having no idea of notes ; yet they are not without some method, and
beat time extremely well with their hands.

Nearly all their songs are of the heroic kind : their historical
ones have a sort of preamble ; each stanza commencing with a little
air on the arabebbah ; after which, the recitative goes on, accompanied
by the gasaph ; and, although this description of music is very mo-
notonous, I did not, on the whole, find it disagreeable. It often
reminded me of the national airs of the Welch, and rude highlanders
of Scotland. They prefer simple, easy, and tender strains, to the
fantastical, roundabout, wandering, and hieroglyphical style of the
modem bravura : even the Moors well know that such complicated
rhapsodies are not those best calculated to

-Soothe the savage breast.

Soften rocks, or bend the knotted oak !

A famous violin player having executed a concerto, during which,
he produced some appoggiaturi and shakes, that astonished many
of his hearers, Dr. Johnson, who was present, remained with the
utmost tranquillity and apparent attention till it was over; and not
joining in the general plaudits, the professor tapped him on the
shoulder, saying, " I assure you, doctor, I have executed some very
difficult things in this concerto." " Would, that they had been
impossible !" replied the sage.

The religion of Barbary is Mahometanisra, blended with various

M M 2

'2C8 PECULIAR CUSTOMS.

superstitious practices, which are not only rejected, but couteniiied
by the Koran. The people of this country profess to belong to the sect
of Melechie, one of the four great divisions into which Islaniism has
separated. To me, the Turks appeared much more scrupulous in
their devotions than the Moors ; and, Avhile on board the Algerine
frigate, they, alone, regularly performed the usual genuflexions, and
dividing into parties of four, never omitted the Messa, or grand
orison of mid-day. All Musselmen are enjoined by the prophet to
offer up prayers five times a day. No person of a different persuasion
can enter the mosques : a Christian who violates tliis law, has only to
choose between death and circmncision. On passing the Mahometan
temples at Algiers, I always observed at least a hundred lighted lamps
suspended in them : when the hour of devotional exercise airives,
there are people expressly appointed to call the faithful together.
Ascending the minarets, or tower of the mosque, they cry out with a
loud voice, Lailla Allah, Allah Mahommed restii Allah ; that is to say,
there is but one God, and Mahomet was sent by him. On entering the
mosque, the believers leave their slippers at the door ; and the first
movement is that of kneeling towards the kibah, or side facing
Mecca.

The faithful always carry a rosary in their hand, not for the pur-
pose of saying a pater noster like us, but to repeat the attributes of
the Divinity : such as, God is great ; God is good, wise, long, round,
&c. I have frequently seen them sitting for hours together, with their
hands behind, and the rosary suspended from them, muttering the
above short, but significant phrases. In fact, the bead is to them,
what a fan is to a modern belle, or the supple cane carried by our Italian
sparks.

They have a hundred puerile customs, which must be observed
with scrupulous exactness : for example, the obligation of turnhig
their back to the sun, whenever they stop in the street ; that of wash-
ing the right side first, and wetting the left, before the other is dry.
During the ablutions, they cannot throw water with the lett hand ;

FASTS. 2GÌ)

nor either laugh or blow their nose in the mosque : when praying,
tliey must raise their hands to the cartilage of the ears, and
then rub the stomach with one hand : in clasping their hands, the
right must be uppermost; and in this state, prayers are to be repeated,
while their eyes are steadily directed towards the fingers ; on bowing,
the hands are placed on the knees : a Mahometan is also to sit down
with the left foot under the right, and toes to the east ; not to yawn
while at prayers, lest the devil should get down his throat. Scrupulously
to fulfil these injunctions, is the criterion by which we are to judge of
Islamism being adhered to in all its purity.

Fasts are, in most cases, very strictly observed ; and some are so
exceedingly scrupulous, that they cover their faces to prevent the effluvia
of meat from approaching too near. During the short bayram, they are
enjoined to give largely in charity ; and there is, on these occasions, no
scarcity of candidates to receive their alms : but the more rich gene-
rally get out of the way and hide themselves, when these appeals are
about to be made to their pockets. Owing to his firm belief in predes-
tination, the Mahometan seldom thinks of taking any precautions for
the future, particularly where life is merely the object: he is, how-
ever, often calm and intrepid in misfortune ; bowing the head and
repeating, " It was to be."

The mosques afford sanctuary to guilty persons, and so do the
chapels and cells of the Marabouts : should the crime be even that of
treason, theDey cannot forcibly possess himself of the delinquent: a
wall is built round the spot; and, unable to take him by assault, the
culprit is starved into submission.

In the kingdom of Tunis, there are several holy cities ; one of
which, near the capital, is called Sidif Bussad. Tlie Moors have an
idea, that in the event of Mecca's being destroyed, the ashes of their
prophet will be conveyed to this sacred place. Neither Jews nor
Christians can enter it; but if pursued by justice, they may go under
the walls, when a tent being given to tliem, the Moors consider it as an
inviolable asylum.

270 PILCniMAGE TO MECCA.

The paradise of Mussehnen, is called corckam. Amongst other
pleasures to be enjoyed there, is that of possessing innumerable houris,
whose virginity is renewed every day, who batlie in honey and water
of roses, and live in palaces composed of diamonds and j>earls.
The damned are said to be re-born, and die every twenty-four hours.
It is believed, that when a corpse is laid in the grave, two black
angels attend, Gnanequir and Mongir ; one of whom has a hammer,
and the other iron hooks to replace the departed soul in the body. —
These angels ask tlie dead man, if he was a good Musselman while
on earth ; and if he does not give a satisfactory account of himself,
the angel who carries the hammer, gives him a blow, which drives the
body six perches deeper in the earth. If, on the other hand, he can
make it appear that he has walked in the way of righteousness while
living, the black angels disappear, and two beautiful white ones take
their places near the body, where they remain till the day of judgment.

All things, according to these people, are submitted to an
inevitable destiny, which they call Narsip or Facter ; but they fully
confide in the Char-allha, or justice of God. This cabalistic word is
held in the highest veneration ; and no one can refuse appearing
before the tribunal, if he who cites him pronounces Char-allha.

But of all the duties and ceremtmies connected with Islamism,
the pilgrimage to Mecca is by far the most important : from the very
earliest infancy, the advantages and glory of this holy journey, is
constantly impressed on the mind of every Mahometan ; and should
he die in the undertaking, so much the more happiness is reserved
for him in paradise. Returning in safety, he is honoured with the
title of H aggi, and looked up to as one who has performed wonders.
This voyage is, in fact, the great object of a believer's life, and to
the hope of accomplishing it, there is no sacrifice which he is not
prepared to make : working for years to procure the means of visiting
the sacred shrine, the greater the difficulties to be surmounted,
the more merit acquired by him who succeeds in the enterprize.
Interest, too, which scarcely ever ceases to operate on the mind of

PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA. 271

mail, is not tbrgotten by the pious Musselman in his trip to Mecca;
which he generally makes subservient to an earthly as well as
heavenly reward, by combining mercantile speculation with the
sanctified offices of religion.

A motive of common safety and mutual defence leads to those
associations of pilgrims, called Caravans, from Caroun, a passage
from one place to another : that of Barbary, known by the title ol"
the Mogreheni, is formed at Morocco ; {>eing joined on its route by
all the pilgrims of the three regencies. It traverses the parched and
dreary deserts of Lybia ; and on getting to Cairo, meets the grand
re-union of those who frequent the holy city from Egypt and Con-
stantinople.

On leaving his house, the pilgrim recites the Fathea, meaning
commencement; and when the general prayer is offered up in the
leader's tent, all the faithful begin the journey by the sound of music,
in the following order : — The camels and mules in front ; then come
the pedestrians : while those mounted on horseback form the rear
guard. A Chri,stian may accompany the caravan, if he has a pass-
port fioni some Arab prince, or governor of a city. He may also
place himself under the protection of its chief: they generally start
before sun-rise, dine at noon, and rest for the night at four. The
annvial pilgrims of Barbary, usually amount to three thousand; most
of whom are well armed : their camp has all the appearance of being
a militaiy one, so that the predatory Arabs scarcely ever attempt to
molest them. These caravans take a hundred days to reach Mecca :
the places of encampment are settled before hand. During the seven
hours of travelling in each day, the march seldom exceeds twenty
miles. From Cairo, the Grand Seignor allows an escort, while the
united pilgrims travel under the command of a Bey, called Em ir
Hagge, or the Prince of Pilgrims. Before this officer is borne tlie
Feneich Chcrsi, or standard of the prophet. The caravan is gene-
rally follo\\ed by a number of cooks and other purveyors, who
expose their diffisrent articles for .sale every evening when the halt takes
place. The more wealthy pilgrims often take their wives with them :

272 NUMBER OF PILGRIMS.

tliese are carried in litters, or seats suspended on each .side o{" the
camel, which are covered with veils, to keep off the sun's rays or
vulgar gaze. The rich also provide themselves with litters, in case
ol' sickness or over fatigue, while a hundred are supplied by the libe-
rality^ of the .sultan.

The number of pilgrims who meet at Cairo, usually exceed forty
thousand. The last night previous to moving, is passed in great
festivity : and as the Musselmen are, on these occasions, accompanied
by their wives and relatives, it is said to be rather favourable to
Mahometan intrigue ; as the ladies have entire liberty while the feast
continues. To behold, on those vast plains, a thousand tents of
diflerent hues in day-light, and illuminated by innumerable brilliant
lamps at night ; a world of people moving about the spacious pro-
menades formed between their portable habitations ; the capital of
Egypt in the distance, and the waters of the Nile ilowing majesti-
cally along ; and to hear the shouts of joy which rend the air on
every side, is a sight hardly to be equalled by any other in the
universe.

Many eastern travellers have spoken of the pilgrimage to Mecca,
of the great sacrifice of three days on the mountain of Arefat, where
it is thought Abraham was on the point of immolating his son Isaac;
of the adoration in Abraham's house, which some call the house of
God, and where the Divinity is supposed to be always present ; of the
famous well of Zezem ; the presentation of the carpet sent annually
by the Grand Seignor to cover the Caaba, or holy sepulchre ; of
the celebrated Aswad, or black stone, brought from Heaven by the
angel Gabriel ;* the rites practised in putting on the Ihram, of the
great ablution under the Golden Sewer ; of the Sais, or seven turns

* I defy the most highly favoured courtezan of Europe to boast of so many kisses
and embraces as this sacred relic ; it being customary for each pilgrim to apply his lips io
it every time he goes round the temple. The frequency of this ceremony has given rise to
a favourite proverb amongst the eastern poets, which might be adopted in more northern
climes, without doing much violence to veracity. In addressing certain indulgent
dulcineas, they say, " You have received more caresses than the black stone of Mecca !"

MARABOUTS. 273

round the pillar, and finally, of the return by Medina and 'Jerusalem.
The caravans are not allowed to put up in the city, but are encamped
in the vicinity, maintaining a degree of tranquillity and order, which
is truly surprising, considering tlie immense concourse of people who
frequent Mecca at that time.

According to the order of the voyage, the Mogrebini should
arrive at Mecca a little after the other pilgrims from Turkey, and
leave it rather before ; lest, as the believers apprehend, the holy city
should be seized by them. No sooner has the caravan set out on its
return to Cairo, than provision convoys are sent to meet it : one on
the same day ; another in tifteen ; and a third, twenty-two days after
its departure. This precaution consoles the weary pilgrim on his
tedious journey ; but of all his .sources of consolation, nothing equals
that of discovering the pure waters of the Nile : it is then that friends
and relatives go out and welcome the Haggi. With numberle.ss
demonstrations of joy, preceded by drums and music, the time is
passed in continued embraces ; and although ever so limited in their
means, the day of return is sure to be one of liberal festivity, in
which the Haggi treats all his friends, and relates the wonders he
has seen. It is .said, that some have been known to put their eyes
out on returning from Mecca ; saying, that there was nothing on earth
worth seeing after making the pilgrimage.

The saints, or holy men of Barbary, are called Vaili, but their
more common appellation is Marabout, meaning a man tied round
the middle with a cord. These are a species of monks who inhabit
small cells or temples, which are styled Marabouts after themselves.

Many of this .secluded class are possessed of great virtue, exclu-
sively devoting their time to works of charity and benevolence :
succouring the indigent, curing the sick, and consoling the afflicted,
they exalt the dignity of our perishable nature ; m hile others, and not
a few, can only be compared to the '' wolves in sheeps' clothing" so
emphatically described by ihe apostle ; and, like the false prophets of
old, chiefly delight in works of iniquity and darkness.

274 marabouts:

Although capable of pursuing- tlie most austere life, and suiiering
the greatest privations without murmuring, the Marabouts have never
made a specific vovi' of continency, thinking its fultilment an abso-
lute impossibility. Often held in contempt by the great, they are
frequently beaten by the Turkish soldiery : but whenever one of them
dies, he is buried with great ceremony ; a mausoleum is erected over
his grave, and a lamp is kept constantly burning in it. The Moorish
ladies are wonderfully attached to these sanctuaries, to which numbers
go daily for the purpose of otlering up their devotions : they are, on
these occasions, generally followed by a slave ; and some have been
ill-natured enough to say, that many of these visits are blended with
sentiments of a more tender and worldly nature than those of mere
devotional exercises. The Marabouts, like more civilized divines, are
particularly fond of contending for precedence ; and during religious
processions, warmly dispute their respective places, attaching infinite
importance to the most insignificant trifles. But irom w hat sphere of
human life is pride and vanity excluded t

Two men with pallid countenances, trembling limbs, and
apparently unable to articulate from the effects of strong passion,
once presented themselves before the manager of a theatre, to com-
plain of the gross insult and injustice which had been done them.
" But what's the matter?" asked the astonished manager; upon
which one of the party, in a stammering voice, said, — " As you well
know we are the principal grotesque dancers of your theatre, and have
hitherto, ^vith the greatest alacrity, personified either a lion, elephant,
or bear, as the occasion required ; but always on condition that we
should move forwards in such characters. However, in the rehearsal
of this morning, they wanted us to walk backwards! ^^'e therefore come
to say, that you may kick, or use any other indignity you like towards
us, in our capacity of elephant or bear ; but rather discharge us alto-
gether than allow us to be exposed to the above humiliating degra-
dation and insupportable di.sgrace !"

The inviolable sanctuary afibrded by the Marabouts to crimi-

THE VAILI. 275

iials of every kind, is commended by a modern traveller, as one
of the very few institutions worthy of praise in those despotic regions,
where the inhabitants, deprived of all civil guarantees, frequently find
these asylums a resource for persecuted innocence. Many of the
saints have been often known to obtain such popularity, as to govern
a number of the tribes in their neighbourhood, which they have even
found the means of exempting from tribute. When travelling, they
are followed by an immense concourse of people ; some of whom are
armed for their prote<'tion. On these occasions, governors of pro-
vinces and other dignitaries go out to meet them, and join the multi-
tude in singing the praises of the Vaili.

If any proof were required of the degraded condition of human
nature in this country, it would be found in the extraordinary and
almost unaccountable veneration shewn towards fools and ideots.
This is said to arise from a belief of the latter's being considered as
absorbed in celestial contemplation, which prevents their descending
to earthly concerns.

Some of these fanatical maniacs are endowed with much more
extensive privileges, and looked up to with greater esteem than others.
Persons about to take a long journey, or who meditate any important
project, go and consult them as the Greeks did their oracles.
Battle is never given by the general of an army without pre-
viously consulting the Vaili, who hold the place of the augurs and
sacred pullets of the Romans. The caravans too, are always accom-
panied by some of this holy race ; and thus protected, freely pass the
most savage tribes, like the Troubadours and bards of the Gaids and
ancient Britons. After the harvest is got in, the Moors present them
with tlie tirst-fruits : they are also I'reely permitted to enter any shop
or garden, and take away whatever is most agreeable to them.

It will not, after the above short description of the Atrican saints,
excite much siirprise, when I add, that there are a number of im-
postors amongst them, who tind it extremely convenient to assumr-
the appearance of ideots, in order the more easily to impo,se on the

\ N 2

276 PRIVILEGED IDEOTS.

credulity of the public ; while the self-created ejift of prophecy is fre-
quently made an engine of sedition and revolt, and in this state of
heavenly inspiration, almost every violence is tolerated. This dan-
gerous privilege is grossly abused by some of these soi-disant saints,
who will often, in a moment of atrocious phrenzy, and while foaming
at the mouth, attack the inoffensive passengers, biting and tearing
their clothes, while the latter are earnestly occupied in prostrating
themselves before the consecrated madman or impostor, and with
caresses endeavour to calm his brutal fury. I heard of one, who for
a long time, used to stand at the door of the great mosque at Algiers,
provided with a cord, which he continued to apply to the neck of
some devoted wretch for several successive Fridays, without any etibrt
being made to prevent this assas.sinating mania, until a number of in-
oflensive people had been .strangled by the wretch.

On another occasion, a lady returning from the bath was seized
by a Vaili, and publicly exposed to the greatest indignity ; fortu-
nately, however, she thought herself more than blessed by this act of
sacred condescension, as the women of India, who are favoured by
the attention of their idols and Brachmins. Upon this occasion, the
Moorish lady was surrounded by a multitude of the faithful, who rent
the air with shouts of joy, and warmly felicitated her on the distin-
guished honour she had experienced : borne in triumph to her hus-
band, he was also destined to receive universal congratulation ; and
what is still more, join in the exultation of his friends !

A third instance of this savage violence, will not be quite so
palatable to the European reader.— The daughter of a Christian
resident at Algiers, being once met in the street by an impostor of
the above tribe, he intimidated her companions to such a degree, that
they were glad to make their escape ; after which, delicacy forbids me
to repeat the dreadful manner in which the monster treated the
unhappy object of his rage. Her father, who was a merchant of
epu enee and respectability, had immediate recourse to the Dey, who,
by the way of redress, told him he ought to consider himself fortunate

PRIVILEGED IDEOTS. 277

that his daughter was likely to become the mother of a saint, ami
thus ended the whole affair.

Some find it answer their purposes of delusion, to assume the
title of prophets, in addition to saintship : in this case, they make a
solemn entry into the city on horseback, and being met outside the
walls by an immense concourse of people, are preceded by streamers:
these assemblages are generally attended by numbers of women, who
exert themselves in common with the men, to touch the saint, or kiss
the hem of his garment : and it is even incredible to think of what inde-
licacies they are guilty of, to attract his notice : looking upon every
sacrifice of modesty, as justified by the sanctified occasion which calls
it forth : even the Dey and his ministers, as well as the besotted popu-
lace, are frequently made subservient to the views of these prophesying
miscreants.

It is in this country, as common for a man to call himself a saint,
as for people amongst us to say, " I am a smith, carpenter, lawyer,
philosopher, poet, or great man I" And, like nobility in Europe,
the holiness of Mahometans passes from father to son ; where the
latter is respected equally with his father, because he possessed the
same privileges, dignity and titles.

Those of the saintly brothers who follow the armies, are less
tainted with fanaticism than timidity ; which generally forms so great
a share in their character, that they seldom give their advice in favour
of attacking the enemy. Owing to this disposition, the hostile armies
remained two whole months in sight of each other, during the late
war between Tunis and Algiers, without a droji of blood being shed.
It would be very desirable were a few of these pacific saints to accom-
pany European armies, and remain in the cabinets of those sovereigns
who have rather too great a predilection in favour of war.

Those sanctified barbarians, who are so generally looked up to, do
not all possess an equal degree of power ; nor are they invoked for the
same object : many supplicate them for a good harvest; while others
apply for a successful termination of their military enterprizes. Theif

278 MOOniSII LAWYERS.

are some also, amongst the " holy men," to whom the prayers of the
ladies are tendered, for the laudable purpose of increasing their
families : these invocations are conducted with great vehemence and
secresy ; and, as may be easily conceived, are seldom made in vain,
being found, generally, to produce the desired effect. It is by this
benign interference of the Barbary saints, that many despairing
wives unexpectedly find themselves in that situation, which all ladies
wish to be, who love their lords !

The ìMoorish doctors, or literati, called tdemas, form a respect-
able body in tliose countries, where there is no other study, except
that of interpreting the Koran, and the numerous commentators by
whom it has been either obscured or illustrated. This body is divided
into three distinct classes : the minister of religious woiship, called
imcuis; doctors of the law, styled the mtrfli ; and those of justice,
called cadi. Each city, or considerable town, has its mufti ; whose
office consists, not in turning the precepts and decrees of the Koran to
his own construction of law ; but merely announcing what they are, in
a clear and specitic manner, to any aggrieved person, w ho may tind it
necessary to apply for justice. The decision arising out of this appeal to
the experience and wisdom of the mufti, is cdWe&fethwa : each citizen
or sulrject, has a right to call upon the above officer, and obtain his
opinion upon all matters of religion, law, or morals, in which his
interests or happiness may be involved, without incurring one farthing's
expence ; and the judges even invite suitors of every kind to procure
a fethwa, previous to their appearing in a court of justice. This has
frequently the effect of putting a stop to unnecessary litigation, while
it serves more than a thousand professions, to convince the people of
the upright integrity of the magistrates ; and, in case of proceeding
to trial, encourages the judge to give his sentence in perfect conformity
to the mufti's opinion.* These means, however equitable in appear-

* This short account of the law officers in Barbary might be very profitably studied by
some Italian judges and legislators of the present day, particularly thereof a certain capital,
not two hundred miles from Pisa; where a culprit who had broken into the lodgings of a

MOORISH LAWYERS. 279

ance, are said to be only efficacious with the lower classes of society :
because, as observed by an intelligent traveller, the occasional injustice
of the tribunals, does not consist in the application of the law, but
the mode of proving and ascertaining facts. The party, who is desirous
of prosecuting, makes out a written and anonymous application to the
mufti, stating his case, to which the latter generally gives a laconic
answer; as, " it can, or cannot be :" " it is lawful, or unlawful. '^ If
the question should be altogether new, and neither the Koran
fethwas or precedents, contained in the books of former iraans, furnish
a I'ule for the mui'ti, he dare not give a decided opinion; but contents
himself by declaring, that the article in question is not to be found
in any of the canonical books, or kufub menterebc. If the matter
relates to an affair of public right, the mufti calls in the aid of the
principal ulemas ; all of whom are influenced in their decision by
the fethwa, or precedents dictated by the Koran, and other legal
authorities.

The mufti always dress in white : they are nominated by the
Dey ; who in his choice, generally selects men of the greatest probity
and reputation : they are consulted in all great state affairs, nor is
any thing of consequence undertaken without their approbation.

The imans, or priests, are charged with the custody and direction
of the mosques : they must not only be well versed in the Koran, but
enjoy an untainted reputation before they are admitted to the sacred
oflice ; and are generally selected from those who are employed to call
the people together from the towers and minarets, at the different
hours of prayer. ^Vhenever an iman dies, the populace present some
one to the Dey's consideration, who, they assin-e his highness, is every

French traveller last year, and robbed him of money and clothes to a large amount ;
being seized with some of the stolen property concealed on his person, was not oalj libe-
rated without prosecution, but suffered to retain ray friend M. De V.'s money and effects!
One of the reasons assigned by 1/ Signor Presidente de la Gran Corte Criminale, for
his conduct on the above extraordinary occasion was, that of there not being witnesses
to prove they saw the thief break into the room, and take the property in question. So
much for the administration of justice in Italy ! — Ed.

280 THE MUFTI.

way qualified to succeed the deceased. A loud and sonorous voice is
the first recommendation a candidate for this station can possess : the
Moors are, in this respect like our peasantry, who, when inclined to
praise their curate, say "-he has a fine voice." The mufti have no
jurisdiction over the imans, nor is there either superiority or hierarchy
amongst the Mahometan priesthood. The Moors do not imagine
that any particular distinction can attach to an iman, from his office ;
and when no longer invested with his charge, he returns to an indis-
criminate mixture with the community. In Ba.rhia.ry semel abbas is not
always abbas ; but while in office, and di.scharging its duties with
fidelity, they enjoy a wonderful degree of popularity and favour,
both with the people and government. In writing to the imans, the
Dey always begins by the following expressions : " Thou, who art
the glory of judges and wise men ; who art the treasure of knowledge,
sanctity, and excellence, &c."

The muezzin, charged with the office of calling the faithful to
pi-ayer, and nuezam, or public exhortations, also form another vene-
rable body in Algiers.

The prophet calls prayers the columns of religion and keys of
Paradise : these must be repeated five times during the twenty-four
hours ; first at day-light, the second at noon, and so on, at equal
intervals, till an hour and a half after dark. The Turks are of
opinion, that no consideration on earth should deter or prevent them
from this sacred duty : neither the orders of the sultan, to extinguish
a fire that may have broke out in their own dwelling, or repel the
assault of an enemy ; being, in their opinion, sufficient to justify their
omission.

No sooner is the warning from the minarets heard, than all the
Mussnimen instantly quit whatever they are about, and falling on
their knees, seem absorbed in the most profound meditation. The
ezzun, or cry of the Muezzins, supply the place of bells, which are
unknown amongst the Mahometans. The sacred heralds thus
appointed to summon the faithful to prayer, are usually distinguished

CALL TO PRAYERS. 281

for melodious and loud voices : this has a mvich more impressive effect
than the European mode of announcing similar ceremonies. Reach-
ing the highest part of the tower, which generally dominates the
mosques, the mviezzin shuts his eyes, and putting his hands up to the
ears, turns towards the east, preparatory to the ezzun's being vocife-
rated. The tranquillity and silence which prevail where carriages
are not used, render it easy for these aerial announcements to be
heard at a very considerable distance, more particularly at day-break.
These periodical appeals to the Mahometans, struck me as possessing
a considerable share of grandeur and majesty. A pleasing agitation
is created in the mind, when at early dawn, a soft and impressive
voice repeats these sublime but simple words: " Come to prayers;
hasten to the temple of health ; adoration is preferable to .sleep !"

After each prayer, the Musselman has recourse to his rosarv,
saying at the first bead, " O, holy God !" passing to the second, he
repeats, " Praise be to God !" at the third, " Great God 1" and so on
till the ninety-nine of which it is composed, are successively counted.
As the canonical prayers never solicit any particular favour from the
Divinity, when over, the Mahometan holds his hands up like one
who is in the act of receiving something from above : after this, the
right is applied to his beard, and the words, God be praised! repeated
as if some favour had been actually received : and with this formula
the devotion terminates. When circumstances permit of it, and no
mosque is near, the open air is preferred from its purity, as the most
proper place to offer up prayers ; and if unprovided with the mat,
usually carried for this purpose, the haik or bernousse is spread over
the .spot. In the midst of those numerous puerilities that disgrace
their worship, some of which have been already noticed, there are
some very rational and praiseworthy maxims inculcated by the Maho-
metan faith : every housekeeper is, for example, obliged to supply a
poor man with a measure of corn or flour on a certain day of the month,
while it is also customary on the first day of Bayram, for the head of
each family to kill a calf or goat with his ow n hand, and having pre-
pared a small part of it for his own use, the rest goes to the neigh-

282 THE KORAN.

bouring poor who present themselves. Besides the above, there is a
still more important obligation imposed on all true believers, that of
giving up to the poor a specific proportion of their whole annual
income: this is called the tenth alms-giving. The extraordinary stress
which Mahomet laid on this benign and transcendent virtue, seems to
have been the only redeeming quality in his otherwise sanguinary cha-
racter; and while all must deplore the fatal influence he contrived to
obtain over so large a portion of mankind, none can deny that his
charitable institutions were worthy of a much better cause.

The Koran, commonly styled Alcoran in Europe, is the sacred book
of Musselmen, which inckides all the precepts of their imaginary pro-
phet. The word koran signifies reading, or that which ought to
be read ; nor is there I believe any other in the world more generally
studied : the followers of Islam always carry it about their persons :
thousands are constantly employed in transcribing it; while nothing
else is meditated on, or tliought of by the true believers, of whom
it may be said : Timeo lectorem unius libri. Yet, strange to leflect,
this book, so venerated and read by the followers of Omar and Aly, as
well as all the other sects of Mahometanism, is a compilation without
order, taste or dignity : the very title placed at the head of each chapter,
as, The Cow, Ant, and Frog, being a sufficient indication of its general
absurdity. It gravely inculcates the pursuit of trifles, and practice of
imbecility : full of fabulous and mimeaning phraseology, marked by
pompous diction, bombastic metaphor, and inflated style, it certainly
boasts a few good moral truths, which all religious legislators have
been obliged to adopt, to ensure the approbation of their followers, as
well as encourage proselytism. But the Alcoran, without being sus-
ceptible of the most remote comparison with the sacred books of
Christianity, even in purity of doctrine or sublimity of morals, is
confessedly far inferior to the Vedam and Ezourvedam of the Hindoos,
or the Zendevasta of Zoroaster ; and above all, the sublime dogmas
of Confucius, the philosophic legislator of the Chinese.

The Koran, similar to various modern productions of Europe, is
really worthy of admiration ; not within, but on the outside. It may

THE KORAN. 283

be compared to a middling picture, ornamented with a splendid frame :
nothing-, indeed, can exceed the richness of decoration with which the
book of Mahomet is every where covered : the bindings of some
copies being studded with diamonds and pearls ; while the very bag-
in which they are carried, is embroidered with the greatest care : the
margins too, are beautifully illuminated, and covered with a profusion
of gold ; like many of the ancient codes and manuscripts to be seen in
some of the great libraries of Europe. I saw several of the above
description while at Algiers, and should have most willingly made the
acquisition of one or two ; not to convert their contents into prayer,
or admire the son of Abdallah's poetry, but for the sake of admiring
these charming gilt edges, and beautiful hieroglyphics ! Mahomet,
both as a prophet and poet, would, no doubt, disdain to have his books
only kept for purposes so unworthy of them : he would not, how-
ever, be the only author, and more especially poet, whose books were
bought for no other end. Dorat, an elegant and sprightly French poet,
but who was not remarkable for much solidity in his compositions,
which were, besides, often disfigured by aifectation and egotism, caused
a splendid edition of his works in four volumes, with engravings by the
first artists, to be published at Paris. Being one morning in his book-
seller's shop, an English gentleman came in, and, in a loud tone, asked
for the famous edition of M. Dorat's works. Upon this, the poet felt a
flush of joy overspread his countenance, and growing a head taller at
least, already contemplated anode in praise of that illustrious people,
who alone know what true liberty is; and amongst whom the value
of talents and virtue are sure to be appreciated. 3Iilord Anglais
having enquired the price, was informed it was four louis ; upon
which the money was instantly put down : and when the bookseller
begged to know whether he could send them to the purchaser's hotel ;
the latter said, it was quite unnecessary, as he could take them home
himself, the weight being a mere trifle : on saying this, he took a pair
of scissars, and, having carefully cut out all the plates and vignettes,
put them into his pocket, and departed, leaving the books on the
counter. It is needless to add, that Dorat changed his tone, and,
CO 2

284 THE KORAN.

thenceforth, breathed nothing but curses on the proud nation, which
was ever envious of French talent, and, above all, incapable of
appreciating the merit of his poetry !

According to Musselmen, the Koran contains all the light of
knowledge and depth of wisdom ; while those who deny its infalli-
bility in these points, are inevitably condemned to remain buried in
everlasting darkness and error. The importance thus attached to
their great rule of faith, will account for there being scarcely any
other books read by Mahometans, than the interpretations and com-
mentaries which have appeared in immense numbers on the sacred
volume. So incredible was the accumulation of commentaries, even
in the days of the first caliphs, that one of the greatest of the pro-
phet's descendants, impressed with a due sense of the scandalous
obscurity into which so many enthusiastic commentators had thrown
the whole contents of the Koran, caused more than two hundred
camels, laden with the impure trash, to be conveyed to the banks of
the Euphrates, and there precipitated their precious burthens into
the stream. Notwithstanding the above very wise arrangement,
innumerable comments are still in existence, and are continually
increasing. Why, said I, one day to a ulema, should there be so
many comments and explanations on the Koran? Surely they nmst
give rise to great confusion, and very frequent repetitions of the same
subject. The following was his reply : " there is no other method of
proceeding in the arduous path of knowledge : wisdom is only com-
municated to the mind by gradual and slow degrees. Every sublime
book should be involved in mystery and darkness, until a learned,
and well-intentioned man interprets it; a second wise man will improve
on the first ; and a third upon the second ; and thus the very summit
of truth is finally attained: after a hundred, two hundred, and if neces-
sary a thousand commentators, we shall arrive at a perfect elucidation
of the Koran in all its splendor." I was not a little gratified at this
luminous display of eloquence, and did not fail to congratulate the
doctor on the probable result of going on with commentaries ; which,
though somewhat late, it must be confessed, bid fair in the long

THE KORAN. :Ì8'>

course of centuries, to make that clear, wliicli is still completely
unintelligible to the profoundest capacity . Amongst us, it is to be
feared that there has been no small degree of sympathy operating
with those who have laboured to explain the Koran : for whether we
call to mind the various attempts made to elucidate our old poets, dra-
matic works, legal writers, or derivation of languages; many have only
rentlered darkness more visible, by their pious efforts to inform the
public. I doubt, however, if the glorious uncertainty into which
these gentlemen have thrown subjects, extremely simple in themselves,
has had any effect in diminishing the emolument derived from their
labours. A poet having once produced a tragedy, to which there
seemed to be neither head nor tail, or any clue by which the public
could divine his object, was reproved for having expressed him-
self in so confused a style, and told he might as well have written in
Arabic, as far as the audience were concerned; answered, " so much
the better, people will come the second night, to ascertain the mean-
ing of what they could not understand during the previous represen-
tation!"*

* This reply might be made with singular propriety by some modern poets. And
those who have arrogated to themselves the exclusive privilege of directing the popular
feeling in matters of theatrical taste, might, with equal justice, inscribe it over the
proscenium of more theatres than one, instead of Veluti in Speculum. No wonder that
people should call those degenerate times, in which Shakspeare, Otway, and Dryden,
Congreve, Farquhar, and Sheridan are laid on the shelf, for the ignoble purpose of
gaining a few additional pounds, at the expeuce of that patriotism and public virtue
which it should ever be the paramount object of scenic representation to inculcate.
Impartial men generally agree, that nothing can be more lamentable than the melo-
dramatic rage which has, of late years, taken almost undivided possession of the British
stage, so rich in all that constitutes moral and poetic excellence. This is certainly not
amongst the most useful continental importations ; and I trust the period is not very
remote, when animated by a more liberal and disinterested spirit, patrons and managers
will not only unite, to restore the manly and pure taste of their predecessors, but establish
theatres in which it will not be necessary to sacrifice the purity of national feelings for the
base lucre of private emolument. — Ed.

2S6 ALGERINE GOVERNMENT.

CHAFIER XV

Nature of the Algerine Government. — Its Character. — The Regency. — Divan.
—Power of the Dey. — His Election, and Mode of conducting it. — Attributes
and Prerogatives of the Dey. — Method of administering Justice. — Cause of
his Popidarity. — Dangers tvhich environ a Dey''s Person. — Anecdotes of some
late Chiefs. — Fascinations of Power and Ambition. — Reply of a Polish
Monarch. — Account of AH Bassa, the reigning Dey. — His Death. — Anec-
dotes.— Notice of AW s Successor, Mezouli. — Omar Aga. — The Council of
State. — By whom it is generally composed. — Effects of a Deyh being
dethroned. — Various Political Reflections. — Account of the different Officers
composing the Dey's Administration. — Mode of the Consuls applying for
Redress. — Description of inferior Officers. — General Character of the Dey's
Ministers. —Remarks. — Anecdotes, 6fc.

If whatever I may have hitherto said, relative to the government
established in Algiers, is not likely to have created a very favourable
prepossession in its favour on the reader's part, the following hints
are still less calculated to induce any change in his opinions. A
foreign militia, kidnapped in the Turkish states, have long been
suffered to usurp all the political power of the regency ; and, as the
melancholy experience of past times has amply proved, that govern-
ment which is formed of adventurers and soldiers of fortune, is very
rarely, if ever, conducted on any other principles than those of rapine
and violence. In such a state of things, there is no check to the
inordinate ambition of the military leader, except in the fear of
dethronement or assassination ; while the insidious partizans of fac-
tion easily divide the turbulent, who are destined by turns, to elect

ALGERINE GOVERNMENT: 287

and overturn the temporary ruler : thus rendering the very ministers
of oppression, victims to their own dangerous principles of liberty.
Despotism has ever had a natural tendency to unite the evils of
anarchy, with those of tyranny ; and, as may be readily imagined,
the ferocious soldiery of Algiers, like those of other countries, can
only delight in that state wherein their lawless power, and sanguinary
importance has once been exerted : deluded by a criminal love of
glory, they boast of that freedom, which is derived from the fatal
privilege of oppressing the multitude, and spreading desolation
around. If informed that they would be more happy under equitable
laws and a wise government ; obeying a sovereign whose legitimacy
was derived from a virtuous determination to employ his sacred autho-
rity, for the maintenance of public liberty and peace, in opposition
to violence and disorder ; they would answer in the language of an old
Afghan chief, quoted by an English traveller : " we glory in discord,
agitation, and blood; nor can we ever love a master !" Under the iron
hand of military power, and foreign oppression, where the character
of the government includes a mixture of low cunning, hypocrisy,
suspicion and cruelty, the enslaved people must lose every sentiment
of honour and of dignity. It has been well and truly said, that a
nation of savages, who may be led into the commission of some
crimes, are infinitely better than a civilized people incapable of
virtue.

It is scarcely necessary to add, that the Algerine government is a
species of military republic ; whose head exercises despotism in its
most undisguised form. What we call the regency, is composed of a
prince, styled Dey; the Turkish Janizaries; and coimcil of state formed
by the principal ministers, called Dowane, known by the title of
divan in Europe. As to the regency, it is merely an empty name ;
for all the power is unequivocally vested in the supreme chief A
driver who conducted a coach, drawn by four horses, in lashing the
leaders, cried, " run, go on, don't be overtaken ;" and to the others,
" exert yourselves, or you'll be left behind ;" was asked by a person

288 ELECTION OF THE DEY.

who heard him, " why do you deceive the poor animals with such tine
talking? Don't you see they are in harness, and cannot go from each
other ?" " I know it," replied the coachman; " but in the meantime,
I carry the whip, the vehicle advances, and finally arrives."

The government of Algiers cannot be called a mixed one, although
it is certainly composed of all the worst qualities which can appertain
to the most vitiated forms. The chief is almost invariably elected
amidst assassination and crime : stimulated by democratic violence in
its most hideous shape, the prince is invested with unlimited power ;
while an insolent aristocracy is ever ready to support his iniquitous
proceedings; the whole forming a military domination, with its
inseparable abuses, accumulated violence, and brutal ferocity.

The Dey originally springs from the Turkish soldiery, always
obtaining his rank by election, and not hereditary succession, which
is unknown in this regency.

On the demise of his chief, each soldier proceeds to the palace,
and oiFers his vote in favour of the new candidate whom he wishes to
elevate to the vacant dignity ; and if the latter is not approved by
all, he is excluded : the ballot continuing until one alone obtains the
undivided suffi-ages. According to Falstaff', " some are born great,
while others have greatness thrust upon them." Tlie elected, whether
he wishes it or not, must become dey ; because all that happens on
earth, was pre-ordained above, and mortals are not permitted to resist
the decrees of Heaven. By the same rule, any one who thinks his
party sufficiently powerful, may depose the newly elected chief; and
after assassinating him, occupy his place with impunity : as this was
also predestinated, and must have taken place on earth.

It can be easily conceived, that these elections, where the entire
unanimity of a licentious soldiery is required, must be conducted with
the fury of the most violent factions : when, therefore, a considerable
majority has invested one of their own members with the new office,
the malcontents generally collect in another quarter of the palace;
and, having become sufficiently numerous, conspire against the recently

CEREMONIES OF AN ELECTION. 289

appointed chief; rushing' into the hall of audience, he is instantly
dispatched, and the leader of the plot, whose hands are stained by
his blood, assumes the royal mantle ; leaving the terrified spectators
no alternative between silent submission and a similar fate. At
another time, the Janizaries, who remain tumultuously assembled in
the Cassarias, send a herald to the Dey, with orders to quit the palace ;
and planting themselves in the avenues leading to it, he no sooner
obeys the summons, than his head is struck ofi". Upon some occasions,
recourse is had to poison, or he is assassinated in going to the mosque.
It frequently happens, that a bold and sanguinary member of the
divan, will strike him down in the midst of his officers; and even
contrive to maintain his usurped authority, with the very scimitar
which has severed the head of his predecessor : thus establishing a
series of crimes on the successful perpetration of the first. These
ferocious rivals in violence and rapacity, whose election takes place
in the midst of tumult and blood, seldom fail to adopt the well-known
maxim of a Tartary chief: " If you wish to keep the state in repose,
let the sword of vengeance be constantly braudishing !"

The ceremonies which follow a new election do not occupy much
more time than the event itself. These merely consist of the fortunate
candidate's being covered with the caftan, which is the ermined robe
of Algiers ; and when seated on the cushion of state, he is saluted by
the .soldiers crying, — " We consent: be it so : God send him pros-
perity !" He is then proclaimed by the chief mufti, who reads aloud
the obligation imposed by his office, reminding him that God having
called him to the government of the republic, his authority should be
employed to punish the guilty, and execute justice with impartiality;
to benefit the state, provide for its internal security, and cause the
soldiery to be regularly paid. This done, the principals kiss hands ;
the attendant Janizaries .salute their new master, whose elevation is
announced to the people by frequent discharges of cannon ; and thus
ends the ceremony.

p p

290 FIRST EFFECTS OF POWER.

The first step generally taken by an Algerine chief after his
election, is that of immediately changing all the officers of govern-
ment, by putting in creatures of his own, and others who may have
been most active in contributing to his elevation. Not contented with
displacing his enemies or rivals, the new Dey frequently causes all
the ministers of his predecessor to be strangled ; takes possession of
their treasures ; receives large presents from those who are nominated
to succeed them ; and by thus enriching himself, he is enabled, by
a well-timed show of munificence amongst the soldiery, at once to
increase his party and consolidate his power. Ali Dey, who was
elected after the tragical death of Ibrahim, surnamed the Madman,
caused no less than seventeen hundred individuals to be massacred on
his accession to power. The universal murmuring of the people had
no efi'ect on this monster ; who, being determined to satiate his
sanguinary disposition, invented the story of a conspiracy against his
person, which was merely a pretext for deluging the streets of
Algiers with blood.

The head of a government like the above, never looks upon him-
self as being raised to power by the esteem or alFections of the people.
With him, the sovereignty is considered as the result of his own per-
sonal exertions, and previous destiny : no wonder, therefore, that his
administration should be little more than a counterpart of what we
have witnessed in all those countries, where the triumphant chief of
a faction has been invested with temporary power.

It was originally intended, that the Deys should only retain their
office for six months at a time ; but those who get wealth or power
once into possession, are seldom disposed to surrender it : at first, this
officer was only the Grand Seignor's viceroy, commanding a species of
military aristocracy ; but gradual encroachments, at length, enabled
him to establish an independent domination. Although his election
is, both in spirit and form, modelled on that of the most democratic
republic, nothing can exceed the despotic manner in which his reign

DUTIES OF THE DEV. ■><» |

is conducted. The title assumed in all public acts, is that of Excel-
lency : this is also given by his former companions in arms ; while
he is styled, Sultan of the Moors, and Majesty, by strangers.

The Dey's expressed prerogative extends to the right of declaring
war and making peace ; assembling the divan whenever he thinks
proper ; imposing taxes and tribute ; regulating all public affairs,
except those of religion, and appointing his own officers: he is also
the supreme judge in all causes, whether civil or criminal, without
being obliged to give an account to any one of his decrees. To resist
which, is like that of opposing fate itself. Believing his power to be
derived from Heaven, it follows that such a favour must have been
accompanied with a large stock of wisdom ; and this is frequently
employed to crush those who were not long before his dearest friends
or most intimate companions.*

The principal occupation of a Dey consists in his being seated
at the extremity of a large hall for several hours daily, for the pur-
pose of administering justice to the multitude. His throne, or chair
of state, is composed of bricks and marble, first covered with carpets,
and then a lion's skin over all. To this place the chief magistrate
repairs, immediately after the chabd, or first morning prayer, and
remains there till the dinner hour at eleven o'clock ; and returning
about noon, continues at his post till sun-set. Audience is given
every day in the week, except Tliursday, which is devoted to his
domestic concerns ; and Friday, the Sabbath, is chiefly passed in devo-
tional exercises at the great mosque. While in the judgment seat,
the meanest individual has free access to his highness : in deciding

* A man of rank being elevated to the chief magistracy, one of his old friends, who
came to offer his congratulations, thus addressed him ; " You were once my equal and
even inferior : at present all praise you, and henceforth none will dare to tell you the truth ;
I shall, therefore, do so for the last time : you are ambitious, vain, obstinate, full of grovel-
ling passions, and only fond of being surrounded by buffoons and flatterers. But you have
become a great personage ; I shall never have another opportunity of telling you this truth,
and now throw myself at your feet."

p p 2

•292 DUTIES OF THE DEY.

causes, the Hogas, or secretaries, attend on each side to note the pro-
ceedings, and write down his decrees ; while officers, called Bachiaux,
are close to his elbow to receive orders, and see the sentences promptly
put into execution : all the members of administration are constantly
on the spot, and near each other, so as to ensure an easy and quick
communication for the dispatch of business. ^Vliile issuing his
decrees in the hall of justice, the Dey's principal ministers are assem-
bled in an opposite room ; the inferior officers are ranged along, on
banks at the door of the palace, so that an applicant who arrives, has
no difficulty whatever in immediately finding the person he wants.
And iipon the whole, I was particularly struck with the method,
celerity, and I will add, extreme zeal with which the most trifling
concerns of the regency were conducted at the Pascialick.

The office of Dey is far from being a bed of roses. A private
individual having been elevated to the first dignity in the state, was
congratulated by a friend on his recent exaltation : " Rather pity me,"
said he : "I only felt my own wants before ; but I now feel tliose of
all my subjects !"

Nor has a Barbary chief much time to languish in idleness or
inactivity. Amongst the singular customs of Abyssinia, it is related
that the doors and windows of the king's palace are always crowded
by people who keep up a continued howling and lamentation ; crying
out at intervals, for pemiission to be admitted to the presence of the
Ras or prince, to obtain justice for the injuries they have received.
If there happens not to be a sufficient number of real suflerers,
fictiti«ius ones are hired to cry and lament in their stead. All tliis is
for the honour of his majesty, and to prevent the possibility of his
being abandoned to indolence or devoured by lassitude. Bruce
relates, that often, while shut up in his dwelling during the rainy
season, several poor wretches were in the habit of regularly coming
to groan and supplicate at his door ; and on enqiuring the cause, he
was informed, they merely came to pay him a compliment, and pre-
vent his falling into idleness or melancholy ; and lioped he would let

DANGERS OF THE REIUNING DEY. 293

them have something to drink that they might renew their lamentation
with redonbled vigour ! It is much the same at the Dey of Algiers'
palace, where a continued round ot" applications for redress, give
rise to a degree of vigilance and activity, which is, above all other
considerations, calculated to increase the popularity of government,
rendering the chief, as it were, necessary to his subjects ; who, seeing
themselves and their concerns, objects of incessant employnient to the
prince, feel perfectly convinced that he must be governing with
justice. On his part, the Dey is fully aware that he is conducting
the vessel of state in the midst of rocks and tempests ; the perils of
which can only be avoided, by holding the helm with a tirm and
steady hand. This is one of the great causes of public tranquillity,
as well as that apparent security in which an Algerine despot con-
tinues to administer public affairs, while a volcano is ever ready to
burst forth at his feet.

A sovereign, having once complained to an oriental sage of the
weary vigils with which his nights were lengthened, leceived the
following advice : — " If you slumber less on your throne, Oking!
you will sleep better in your bed."

Notwithstanding the Dey's unlimited authority and excessive
power, he is surrounded with innumerable dangers: the failure of an
expedition, a long peace, which is sure to annoy liis rapacious fol-
lowers ; a doubt, on their part, that the most scrupulous impartiality
has not been observed in the distribution of plunder ; the smallest
delay in paying the troops, is quite sufficient to inflame the turbulent
Janizaries, and create a tumidt which has often been known to termi-
nate the life and power of a Barbary chief, in the course of a few
hours. On these occasions, it is in vain to supplicate a moment's
grace, or attempt to soften the callous hearts of his executioners with
promises of future moderation : his fate being once decided on, there
is no appeal. " He was the Dey : he has reigned ; but he can reign
no longer, and must die." The throne in this country is truly
Ulte belle place mais qui n'a pas de sortie. It is much more easy to

294 SUDDEN DETHRONEiMEiNT.

ascend dangerous heights, than come down again when once arrived
at their summit.

It is not many years since the caprice of fortune caused the eleva-
tion of a schoohnaster to the office of Dey : more happy in swaying
the rod than the sceptre, he had no ambition beyond the precincts
of his school, nor ever dreamed of ascending the throne of majesty.
But being elected, there was no alternative ; and having had the mis-
fortune to displease the soldiery by his mildness and love of peace, he
received the fatal message to quit the palace, and instantly obeying
with a pallid and trembling look, .solicited leave to return to his
pupils, and pass the rest of his days in trancpiil retirement. " That
cannot be : it is not the custom," replied one of the conspirators :
" you were the Dey ; have been deposed ; and cannot be sutfered to
live."

One of the late chiets, who was summoned to leave the palace,
attempted to save himself by escaping over the terraces ; but a Jani-
zary picked him off with his carbine, and he fell dead into the street.
It often happens, that an entire reign does not exceed a few hours.
On the high road, outside one of the city gates, there are seven stones
to be seen ranged along. These are the ignoble graves of as many
chiefs, elected and assassinated on the same day.«

It is so extremely rare for a Dey to die in his bed, that whenever
such a phenomenon occurs, as in the case of Hassan Ba.ssa, he is
venerated and numbered amongst the saints. Referring to the prin-
ciples of action which influence these chiefs, it is almost superfluous

* The Caliph Abdalmelick, who conquered Abdallah, Lord of Mecca, and dethroned
Masaab, his brother, being in the castle of Confa, when the latter's head was brought in ;
an Arab, near his person, smiled in such a significant manner, as to make it appear there
was a profound thought connected with it. The Caliph asked, what he was thinking
about; to this the Arab replied, that he was reflecting on this being the fourth head he had
•seen brought into the castle : having recapitulated the names of those who had lost them,
without any farther comment, the lesson was not lost on the Caliph, who, in order to
prevent the melancholy presentiments to w hich it gave rise, immediately quitted the castle,
and even caused it to be demolished.

INDIFFERENCt: AT THK PATE OF A DEY. 295

to add, that neither the interests or will of the people is ever considered
by them for a moment. Men, in the Barbary states, can only be
compared to beasts of burthen, who are attached to the despot's car.
Hence we may easily trace the cause of that indifference, which any
one feels towards the fate of a sovereij^n, who commands from motives
of selfishness and personal aggrandizement. In all those convulsions,
which agitate the government of Barbary, the Moors look on as
passive spectators ; while it would be ridiculous for a Dey, whose life
is menaced by the faction of the hour, to recur to the affections, or
call for the assistance of his subjects.

II popol dunque a mio favor ? Che speri
Che in cuor di serva plebe odio ed amore
Possa eternarsi mai ? Dai lunghi ceppi
Guasta, avvilita, or l'un tiranno vede
Cadere, or sorger l'altro ; e nullo l'ama,
E a tutti serve ; ed un Atride oblia,
E d'un Egisto trema .*

A Dey's life would be comparatively secure, if he had only to
apprehend the discontent or revolt of the people : the swords mostly
to be feared, are those which immediately surround the thrones of
despotism : yet such is the irresistible influence of ambition in the
human heart; there is so much gratification in the idea of superiority,
that it would seem, people breathe a purer air in these higher regions
of worldly dignity, where man so frequently thinks the lightning
and tempest cannot overtake him. Power is even said, to enable its

■ Dost hope that in the heart
Of the base people, hatred or regard
Can ever be perpetuated ? Spoil'd,
Degraded ; now it sees one tyrant fall
And now another rise : not one it loves,
And yields to all ; forgets an Agamemnon,
At an .(Egisthus trembles.

Lloyd's Alfieri, Orestes, Act II. Scene:

296 ALI BASSA.

possessor to appreciate those objects it looks down upon, more justly
than other people ; while every word and action accpiires weight and
importance, in proportion as the author is elevated above his fellow
men. Such, in fact, is the effect of power, that the being whom
fortune raises to grandeur and dignities, is no longer able to see the
dangers by which he is environed. If you asked a Turkish soldier,
whether he would consent to be elected for three days, though sure of
decapitation the fourth; your offer would be gladly accepted: besides,
they encourage an idea, that all the deys become saints after death.

Philosophers, who are simple, and of little experience in such
matters, entertain very different notions of power and ambition ; but
he whose lip has touched the enchanted cup, who has been inebriated
by the fumes of that fascinating incense, can never afterwards taste
another joy. A Polish chief once recommended his sovereign to shew
a generous example of magnanimity, by descending from his throne,
and becoming a citizen. " Such is your idea," replied his master;
" because you are a private individual. But I, who am a king, ought
to think very differently : the throne is not the <^nme kind of thing,
when viewed from below, as it is seen by those who have it in pos-
session."

The Dey who reigned when I went to Algiers, or move properly
speaking, was carried there, called himself Ali Bassa ; to which
was added the title of Haggi, assumed by all those who have visited
the holy city of Arabia. Ali had made the pilgrimage no less than
three times ; and was consequently regarded as a saint : he was, never-
theless, a most fanatical Musselman ; the bitterest enemy of Chris-
tians : he never omitted the most trifling, or superstitious practices of
his own sect, nor lost any opportunity of gratifying an act of ven-
«i^eance, in which he always seemed to take particular delight. In
addition to the most scrupulous attentions to his daily ablutions and
prayers, it appeared to be an article of faith with Ali, to bathe him-
self occasionally in human blood : hence, the frequent assassinations

CHARACTER OP ALI BASSA. 297

tliat marked his reign, and gave rise to an opinion, amongst his
devoted snbjects, that he was by far the most sanguinary tyrant who
had ever governed in Algiers.

Haggi Ali Bassa was about fifty-five years of age, with stout
limbs, and tolerably well shaped; but his physiognomy plainly indicated
a mind corroded by the worst jiassions : in him, you beheld a man
wrapped up in his own black and gloomy thoughts ; and as
Tacitus observed of a Roman emperor, " vi dominationis convulsns et
commutatus.'' The most terrific stories were related of this man's
cruelties : he once condemned a lad of fourteen years old to death,
for having merely left a small stone in some rice intended for soup.
One day, while seated in the hall of justice, a chiaux or messenger
came up, and whispered something in his ear : the Dey made a sign
with his hand, and in a few minutes, five bleeding heads were brought
in by as many executioners ! They belonged to some rich Moors,
who were snspected of holding seditious conversation in a neighbour-
ing coffee-house.

In 1814, he had ruled seven years ; an exceedingly long reign for
an Algerine dey; and which he entirely owed to his unceasing vigi-
lance, and prompt execution of that vindictive spirit, which left no
respite to his enemies when once discovered, or even suspected. Seve-
ral conspiracies had only the efl^ect of consolidating his power; but
a long peace with Spain and Portugal, having displeased the unquiet
spirits of tlie divan, they succeeded in exciting a general feeling of dis-
content amongst the soldiery ; and this was soon followed by a powerful
faction, which openly expressed its dis.satisfaction and hostility to the
tyrant. The capture of our vessel, afforded Haggi Bassa an oppov.-
tunity of dispensing some valuable donations amongst the soldiers aixl
members of the divan; which may have given temporary support to
his throne of blood. But the already vacillating .state of Ali's health,
was rendered still more dangerous, by the internal workings of his own
distempered mind ; which seemed to threaten a speedy dissolution.

Q Q

298 DEATH OF ALI BASSA.

M. de Laiigle, who published an account of his travels through
Spain, observes in noticing his Catholic Majesty, the excellent
Charles III. " The king is adored, and it must be on this account,
that he enjoys such good health : nothing is so salutary to a sovereign
as that of being popular amongst his subjects."

Although menaced with approaching death, by the state of his
health, Providence seems to have decided that Ali should not perish
in the ordinary course of nature : he was poisoned by his black cook,
who having probably remembered the boy's fate, gave his highness
a pill that was not quite so easy of digestion as the pebble which gave
rise to the former's cruel condemnation. A young page having once
had the misfortune to spill a little water on the roljes of a caliph of
Bagdad, so enraged his master, that he was instantly condemned to lose
his head ; upon which, he took up a dish full of gravy, and emptied its
contents all over the tyrant. " Wretch! how dare you offer such an
indignity, and thus insult my august person V exclaimed the furious
caliph. "Great commander of the believers," replied the page;
" what would posterity say, when informed that you had condemned
me to an ignominious death, for having unfortunately suffered a drop
of water to fall on your garment I At present, that I am guilty of a
great crime, in pouring the contents of a dish over the sacred head of
your excellency, it will be said, that so great a prince did not abandon
himself to the last extremity of violence, for a trilling cause; and if
rigour was used, it was justified by the occasion." Ali's cook seeiiied
to be actuated by a similar motive ; and determined, that if his master
had time to revenge the attempt, it should not be for a trifle. But,
af it happened, that was not the case ; and on the joyful event's being
a?,nounced, an old officer of the Janizaries was elected for the time
being ; and though he succeeded Ali, he did not replace him ; being
merely set up until a candidate more worthy of the throne could be
found. This was soon furnished in the person of Omar Aga ; whose
transient predecessor had his head taken off, according to custom.

ELEVATION OF OMAR AGA. 29ii

As to Haggi Ali Bassa, as may be supposed, his death was not
very deeply lamented : conformably to an old proverb, he that would
reap tears, must sow love.

The chief cause of Omar Aga's elevation, arose from his late
brilliant success in an expedition to the mountains of Couco, directed
against the inhabitants of that warlike dislrict. Omar was then about
forty-five, and one of the handsomest men in the regency ; possessing
extraordinary talents, intrepidity and resolution. While in command
of the troops, and employed on service, he was foremost in every
enterprize : his pleasing manners, constant presence, and easy
vivacity, had made him the idol of his inferiors, and soul of the divan :
all which seemed to point him out as Ali's successor. It is not, there-
fore, surprising, that the latter should have long regarded Omar Aga
with an eye of jealousy ; and he was once even induced to send the
bachiaux, or principal executioner to destroy him ; but the resolute
chief was not disposed to jield ; and retiring into one of the cassa-
rias, dared his adversary to advance. Upon this, the minister of ven-
geance desisted ; and, like the Cimbrian soldier, who was terrified by
the petrifying aspect of Marius, felt himself incapable of following
up the orders of his master. Having surmounted this difficulty,
Omar proved that he was equal to the most trying emergencies ; while
reverses and misfortunes only seemed to increase the fiery ardour of
his character. He reigns, and the firmness with which he does so,
would justify his answering in the language of a sovereign, who being
interrogated, how he could possibly remain on his throne, while
governing a ferocious and inconstant multitude i replied, " because
the crown is more closely attached to my head, than the latter is to my
shoulders."*

The council of state is composed of all the ministers ; and these
are nominated by the Dey, not as the organs of the people, but the
obsequious slaves of his highness. Caprice, accident, favouritism, or

* An account of Omar's fate will be given in another part of this volume. — AV.
QQ 2

300 CONSEQUENCES OF THE FALL OF A DEY.

the spirit of party, alone has any share in determining their selection ;
so that in Barbary, a man is frequently raised from the lowest con-
dition to the highest pinnacle of fortune, while another falls into an
abyss of misery from dignity and titles. It has sometimes happened,
that the Dey's principal secretary was formerly his groom ; and that
he who sweeps the streets once governed the city ! These sports of
fortune are generally found to be as mean and servile in adversity, as
they were proud and insolent in prosperity : the degraded multitude,
not less influenced by equally dishonourable motives, are also ever
ready to trample on the humbled superior, who was formerly
oppressed with their fawning adulation.

When precipitated from power, a Dey is sure to drag all liis
officers after him ; and while reigning, his avarice frequently leads to
the spo^iitation of those whom his own patronage and protection may
have previously enriched : thus, by a natural inconstancy, destroying
his own work. At another time, he will sacrifice his chief favourite
to the fury of the soldiers, as we throw pieces of meat to satisfy the
roaring lion, or famished jackall. Perhaps it belongs to the policy
of Algiers, to make an occasional vacancy in some public office, if
only to excite the hopes and ardour of unemployed candidates ;
such artifices not being disdained even in more polished countries.

Sir Robert Walpole, being anxious to pass a bill in the upper
house, on which it was particularly necessary to obtain the appro-
bation of the spiritual peers, requested his friend, the Archbishop of
Canterl)ury, to remain shut up at home for a few days ; and imme-
diately after, caused it to be reported, that his grace was suddenly
attacked by a complaint which baffled the skill of his medical
advisers, and left no chance of his recovery. No sooner had the news
gone abroad, than all the other right reverend lords immediately
paid their court to the minister, by which means he found no difficulty
in passing his bill ; which event was speedily followed by the arch-
bishop's re-appearance in rude health !

There are people who will, perhaps, say, that there is no harm

BARBARY STATESMEN. 301

in a ministry feelings some little degree of uneasiness on their seats ;
and that it would rather do good, were those of Algiers occasionally
placed on such a chair, as Cambyses put the son of a magistrate who
had been convicted of injustice and venality : others may also assert,
that being watched with vigilance, and surrounded by precipices, the
members of an administration neither relax in zeal, nor sleep upon
their posts, regarding the state as their patrimony, and their places
not as a public charge, but a situation of enjoyment and repose. But
it is not for neglect of pul>lic duty, or oppressing the people that
ministers are punished in Algiers : when they suffer, it arises more
frequently from the disinclination or impossibility of their satistying
their master's avidity for gold, or falling the victims of a treacherous
intrigue. It is not the sword of justice that is raised against them on
such occasions, but the dagger of revenge. Thus the ministers of
Barbary, always uncertain of their fate, are tilled with trendiling
and suspicion : never obtaining recorapence or praise for their good
conduct, they are isolated, as it were, and cannot feel attached to a
government made up of ingratitude and caprice. It is, therefore,
very natural for them to be chiefly intent on enriching themselves for
the purpose of fllying on the first favourable occasion, as the only
resource against the inconstancy of fortune.

It appears a singular phenomenon in political science, when
we reflect on the kind of people who are called to administer the
affairs of government in Barbary ; where mere chance, and that alone,
without the smallest regard to talents, is generally the origin of a
minister's elevation to power and place. What would be the conse-
quence in Europe, says a traveller, if all offices of importance and
trust, were exclusively bestowed on the most uneducated and obscure
part of the community ? — In Africa, where such is the case, and all
are ignorant alike, the result is not productive of quite so much incon-
venience.

In this country, the acme of ministerial talent consists of the
lowest cunning and artifice; which valuable qualities are usually

;>02 MEMDERS OF THE GOVERNMENT,

employed in penetrating the designs and intentions of other people :
and in this the Turks and Moors are said to possess a profound al>ility.
But who knows, after all, whether this grand art of government, about
which so much has been said and written, is so difficult as many
vAould make us believe t And whether things would not go on toler-
ably well without quite so many cooks ? It may be the driver, who
impels the horses, that carry him along i I have, however, seen some
coachmen drunk, and sleeping on their boxes ; yet the horses seemed
to proceed, « merveille, never missing their road. I have witnessed
others, impatient and irritated, often whipping the poor animals
confided to their charge, to death ; and on enquiry into the cause of
the dispute, frequently found the horses were in the right.

The Chancellor Oxenstiern's son, being appointed ambassador to
the Swedish Congress, waited in constant expectation that his father
Avould give him ample instructions how to act at that solemn assem-
bly, where the destinies of Gennany were about to be decided. But
his father was perfectly silent on the subject : at length the day of
de]>arture having arrived, the ambassador waited on the chancellor,
to request he would give him some clue by which he couhl be guided
in the difficult mission he was about to undertake. " Go," said his
Ikther, " and don't give yourself any farther uneasiness." — Videbis
quam parva enm sapieiitia regatur mundu.s. Oxenstiern possessed
too much talents himself, not to know their influence on people and
governments; and no doubt took great care, that in this instance, his
selection fell upon a person so fully equal to the object in view, that
no instructions were necessary ; for, when on the spot, the acute
statesman acts according to circumstances as they arise. — Mitte
sapientem, et nihil dicas.

The executive members of the Algerine government are composed
of the Casnedar or Cadenaggi, grand treasurer, and keeper of the
hasena, an apartment close to the divan, in which all the Dey's .specie
is deposited; the Michelacci, minister of foreign affairs and the
marine, who, from the importance of his functions may be considered

MEMBERS OF THE GOVERNMENT. :ÌOiÌ

as premier; the Grand Rais, or admiral, who commands all llie
naval forces ; the Caia of the Dey's palace, whose place he irequentiy
supplies; the Aga of the camp ; Commander in Chief of the army ;
the Coiigia of horse, head general of cavalry; and Aga Baston,
whose office is far from being the least consequential, as already men-
tioned. There are also four hojas, or secretaries of state; the oldest
of whom superintends all the public accounts and expenditure, paying
the military, &c. The second keeps a registry of imposts ; tiie third
notes all receipts into the treasury, and sums paid out of it; while
the fourth is required to register the decrees, and public acts of
his master with foreign powers. The last named officers are generally
seated on the Dey's right hand, when in the hall of justice; and are
thus in readiness to note the orders and decrees which may be given.
The hojas seldom speak in the divan, but their advice is given very
freely in private, and generally has great influence with his highness.
Whenever a European consul goes to complain or enforce any claims
at the Pascialick, the fourth hojas reads the article in question,
which must be literally followed. If the claim is properly invalidated
satisfaction is given : on the contrary, should the affair rest on doubt-
ful conjecture, or insufficient proof, it is rejected, and the subject is
not renewed any more. In addition to the foregoing, there are eighty
inferior hojas, each of whom has a particular charge. Some collect
the tax on houses, others serve out the soldiers' bread, preside at the
custom-house to receive duties, superintend military depots ; t^vo are
stationed at the marine gate of the city, some are always near the
Dey's person, while others constantly attend the ministers, and
accompany the naval and military expeditions.

Beside the above, there are also some other important officers of
state, such as the Grand Doletro, or lord chief justice, whose seal
is affixed to all treaties. The Mezovard, a species of lord mayor,
who looks after the internal peace of the capital, going round the
city every night: his report is regularly made to the Dey. He is
chief inspector of prostitutes, from each of whom he exacts a tax:

;]04 3IEMBERS OF THE GOVERNMENT.

and also superintends the butchers, who must all be Moors. The
Checkebeld is charged with the repairs of the city and public works :
it is also at this officer's house that the Moorish women are punished ;
and he is responsible for the care and custody of those captives whose
rank or rather fortune may be sufficient to exempt them from working.
Another officer, called the Pilremelgi, claims and takes possession of
whatever belongs to the public or Dey, either by death or other cause:
he must on this account be informed of all deaths; and in order that
they cannot be concealed from his knowledge, his permit is necessary,
before any corpse can be taken to the burying ground, there being a
subaltern stationed at each gate to receive these written permissions.
The Dragoman, or interpreter of the palace, is generally a Turk,
and obliged to be well versed in the Arabic; after explaining the
contents of all letters to the Dey, he is to deliver his highness a
Turkish translation of them. He also seals all dispatches, and other
documents before his master, who never signs any papers himself, but
has a seal with his name engraven on it, applied by the Dragoman.

The Rais, or captain of the port, is obliged to visit all vessels
previous to their sailing, to see that no slave is concealed on board :
he decides any disputes that may arise amongst the ships in the
mole, and reconnoitres along the coast every evening before sun-set.
These ministers are not regularly paid ; but as they do not serve
for honour, it is natural enough for them to adopt other modes of
levying contributions on the public: it is this which makes all the
Dey's officers the very emblems of venality and extortion. Indepen-
dent of gratuitous presents, and these are never refused, there are
regular charges made in all transactions with public offices, called
Usanza, equivalent to old established custom; and, as amongst the
beggars, a douceur once given by any stranger, is sure to be levied
on all those who come after him. Unlike the more conscientious
ministers of other conntries, there is not the least fear of prosecution
against those who present a statesman of Barbary with a compliment
either in money or jewels. He neither hesitates to receive the prof-

MEMBERS OP THE GOVERNMENT. 305

fered favour, or is appreliensive of being thought indiscreet for his
condescension. Like a hidy who once praised a ring- which she saw
on a gentleman's finger. " It is at your service," said he. " I accej)t
it," was her reply ; upon which lie rejoined, " Ah, madam! you are
going to banish gallantry from the world !"

I knew many of these official gentlemen : some were thrust into
power by conspiracy and cabal, others had crept into place by
grovelling and servility. The door which leads to fortune is small,
and cannot be entered without stooping; while posts of eminence
may be compared to certain trees, the tops of which none can reach
except eagles or reptiles.

I was frequently in the habit of meeting the Michelacci, who
certainly possessed some talent ; but to a violent disposition, he added
the most repulsive manners, and unconquerable obstinacy. The Cade-
naggi did not enjoy either much favour or authority at court; this
preying on a proud spirit, rendered him morose and melancholy : he con-
stantly complained of illness, but did not know his disorder, it was that
of suppressed ambition. The Grand Doletro had been formerly chief
purveyor to the army, and from this, some idea may be formed of his
legal knowledge ; nor would an epigram which was applied to the
counsellor of a prefect, during the domination of the French in Italy,
be altogether inapplicable to this luminary of the law.

Consigliere è fatto Tizio :
Deve dare il suo guidizio ;
Nessun dà quel che non ha.*

The person appointed to be military governor of the city during
ray stay there, had never served a single campaign, or even joined
the armies on active service. The Piince de Ligne having heard that
such a one had been made a general, observed, " Rather say he was
nominated !" Omar, who afterwards became Dey, was, in point of

* This is from the author's collection, whic> is very extensive, and justly celebrated
ail over Italy, for brilliancy of wit, and acuteness of judgment. — Ed.

R R

e'JOt) MEMBERS OF THE GOVERNMENT.

judgment and penetration, an exception to them all, if I except an
old liojas, who had for some time officiated as first secretary to Ali
Bassa. It often occurred to me, that this man was a renegado, but
he would never confess it.

During the seven years Ali reigned, the ministers were changed
three or four times. The Pascialick in those days, resembled an
European court, in which the intrigues of courtiers and favourites
gave rise to so many changes of ministry, that an old duche.ss, who
frequently paid her devoirs, used to stop the carriage at some distance
from the door, and send her laquais forwards to enquire, if Mr. * * *
' was still in office % The old admiral had survived two Deys, and
floated over no less than four revolutions. This success in the art of
keeping his place, was derived from the profound cunning and inex-
haustible flexibility of his character. A slave to circumstances, the
pliant tool of each ruler, and weather-cock of every blast, the winds
seemed to be his only guide. But some will ask, was it his fault if
they were variable Ì

The celebrated Vicar of Bray, to whom so many modern politi-
cians bear a very exact resemblance, when upbraided for the versatility
of his genius in accepting curacies from parties of the most opposite
sentiments, replied in a tone of the utmost exultation, — " So far
from deserving these reproaches, I am ever equal to myself; nor is it
possible for any one to have displayed such unshaken consistency. —
I was Vicar of Bray at first, am so still, and will die Vicar of
Bray !"

THE DIVAN. ;^0:

CHAPTER XVI.

The Divan. — Us Character as a representative Body. — By whom composed.

Mode of assembling.— -Discussion, and Collection of the Votes.— Revenues.
— The Beys. — Their Rapacity. — Dey's Policy with regard to them. — The
Caids, and their numerous Oppressions.— Account of the Chiaux, or Dey's
Messengers.— Their Influence on the Multitude.— Reflections on Laws and
Government.-Algerine Code.- The Cadi. - Their Appointment and Functions.
Civil Process in Barbary. —Ignorance of the Judges, and novel Mode of
deciding Causes. — Remarks and Anecdotes. — Criminal Process. — Punish-
ment inflicted for various Crimes. — Consequences of Adultery and Infidelity
in the Females. — Punishment of Treason. — Debtors. — How treated. Anec-
dote of Ibrahim Dey.— Effect of the Dey's Personal Administration of
Justice. — Anecdote of Cheban Dey. — Defects of the Algerine Law. Exces-
sive Severity of some Punishments.— Police Regulations o/ A lg i e r a.— Nightly
Patroles. — Espionage and Informers. — Subterfuges of arbitrary Power.

When I name the Divan of Algiers, let not the reader imagine
any thing like the Chamber of Deputies in France, and still less a
British Parliament. The people of Barbary have no idea whatever
of national representation, or that balance of political power, and
mixed government, so tempered, that it is capable of uniting liberty
with order ; and in which the best guarantee of popular rights is found
in the royal prerogative ; where, by a rational respect for the power
and dignity of the crown, the surest barriers are opposed to tyranny
and oppression ; where the people are associated with the govern-
ment, to watch over their own immediate interests, and promote the
common safety; where, in fine, the tempestuous passions being

R R 2

308 MEMBERS OP THE DIVAN.

repressed, a wide field is open to genius, love of country, the desire
of useful activity, fervid movements of the heart, and generous
impulses of glory.

The dowane, or as we say, divan, is composed of the principal
ministers and officers of the Janizaries, and Moorish niilitia ; who are
not elected, but belong naturally to this assembly, as the warlike
supporters of the Dey's power. So tar, therefore, from representing
the people, they can only be viewed in the light of an insolent and
overbearing aristocracy. Notwithstanding its entire subserviency to
the ruling power, the divan possesses some lands and revenues ; but
it does not, as formerly ,*^inherit the property of those who die intestate
or without issue. The comparatively few siims paid into its treasury,
at present, are devoted to repairing the walls of the city, and in
occasionally paying for public dinners ; which, as in some countries
of Europe, is frequently the sole cause of bringing the divan together.
Each member of this body is distinguished by having a slip of gold-
lace in front of his turban.

The most numerous part of the above assembly, consists of the
old agas, yiack bash as, three hundred boulouchis, two hundred
oldaks; the whole generally amounting to seven hundred persons.
In affairs of great importance, the mezoul agas, or retired officers,
and sometimes even the whole of the Turkish soldiery are included.
The oldest aga acts as president, taking the first seat ; close to him
is the secretary, who notes down the resolutions ; the third range is
composed of twenty-four aga bashas, or principal officers of the
militia ; who seat themselves according to rank and length of service ;
then come the boulouc bashas and oldaks. A meeting is held at the
Alcasar every Saturday, besides any other time required by the Dey :
when the attendance of the soldiers is called for, they nmst go unarmed,
and while in the hall, remain with their arms folded. All questions are
discussed in the Turkish language; andwhenputto the vote, the prin-
cipal aga gives his opinion first, or makes his proposition, which is
communicated to the aga bashas ; four officers, called bashoul dala.

THE BEYS. :i09

repeat it one after another in a lond tone, which usually creates great
confusion for the time ; but here it is only vox, vox, jirceteraque
nihil! because it very seldom happens, that anything is decided on,
during these tumultuous meetings. And it may be said of the divan,
as of the council of an old sovereign, when a person having asked,
" what has passed at the grand council this morning'?" Another
answered, " what has passed ? Why, three hours !" In former times,
all affairs of consequence were argued and examined in this assembly,
and not only the laws, but every decree of the Dey was to have its
approval, previous to being put into force. But now, the Dey assem-
bles and dissolves it according to his good pleasure and convenience ;
entering the hall as Buonaparte used to go in amongst the pliant
legislators of St. Cloud, or as Oliver Cromwell dissolved the long
parliament. The Grand Caia, who usually represents the Dey, opens
the debate, by shortly stating the object of the meeting, and then
concludes, by making his proposal, that is to say, what must be
acceded to : his silence is followed by casting a ferocious look round
the assembly, which plainly indicates the result of nonconformity to
his wishes. This is one way of collecting the free and unbiassed votes
of an independent assembly ; and reminds me of the amateur of
paintings ; who, after having told one of the cognoscenti, that he
woukl throw any one out of the window that said such a picture was
not an original, finished by observing, " now, my friend, I request that
you, who are so good a judge, and sincere in giving your opinion,
will come, and tell me candidly, what you think of it V

The governor of each province is entitled Bey, and is also sometimes
entrusted with the command of the army, if hostilities are going on
within his own territory, or on its frontiers towards the enemy. These
officers are almost invested with sovereignauthority: in nominating them,
their commission merely consists in the Dey's telling them before his
ministers, " go, and govern such a country, and be my general."

There are three Beys appointed by the Dey of Algiers : one resides
at Oran, in the western province ; another lives in the eastern, of

310 THE BEYS.

which Constantina is the capital; while the third is generally encamped
with a large military force, which is almost continually emjjloyed in
keeping down those tribes who may be anxious to throw off the
despotic yoke under which they groan. All the Beys ai-e more or less
occupied in making irruptions amongst the.se unhappy and persecuted
people : after having exercised the greatest rapacity, and obtained an
increase of territory, the tribes are for a time very well treated,
and even caressed, by their inexorable oppres.sors. The Beys are
recalled to the seat of government every two or three years to give an
account of their proceedings to the Dey. They of course do not omit
coming into the capital, well loaded with booty, the produce of their
previous exactions and plunder. Although on arriving at Algiers,
they are no more than private individuals, yet, from the splendor and
extent of their retinue, they are always honoured with the acclama-
tions of the populace, in proportion to the greatness of their train
and quantity- of treasure brought in.

In these extensive governments, the chiefs take good care to
provide for themselves: hence the immense riches which they are said
to possess ; and while at their posts there is no device of cruelty or
art to which they will not have recourse to obtain money from the
peaceful inhabitants. A newly appointed Bey having asked his pre-
decessor what his government yielded, the latter rej)lied, " It has
usually brought ten thousand piasti'es : when not afraid of trifles, you
might make twenty thousand of it, and I have got as many as thirty
thousand !"

The Dey suffers them to do as they like with the most perfect
indifference : he even appears to be gratified at their wading through
the blood of his people, that he may afterwards have the pleasure of
squeezing the spunge, as it is called. When once ascertained that the
Beys are sufficiently rich, their avaricious master soon contrives to
induce their return to Algiers; where if not very liberal in ministering
to his thirst for gold, there is no difficulty in making a pretext to arrest
them, which event is usually followed by strangling. It is true, that

THE BEYS. 31 f

many of the Beys who may be apprehensive of the consequences,
often contrive to keep away from the capital, for a long time after
being recalled. The Caifte, or next in command, is frequently sent
on with the tribute, and large presents, while in some cases recourse
has been had to flight: on these occasions the Mountains of Couco
aiford a safe and luxurious retreat to the voluntary exile. If there
are a few solitary instances on record, of punishment having been
inflicted on a plundering governor or venal minister of Barbary, the
public good was not so much consulted, as the advantage his high-
ness's revenue might derive from it. Should an officer be complained
of, he is displaced, and his fortune is immediately seized by the
Dey. If the next who succeeds him be also denounced, and the
populace are once more gratified by the fall of an oppressive
governor, the chances are greatly in favour of a still more corrupt
character filling his place ; and while the latter is busily employed in
fattening on the spoils of the abused multitude, the Beys are equally
active on their side, Avhile his highness is only intent on finding a
pretext, no matter how trifling, to spoliate both parties: thus furnish-
ing rather a striking illustration of a well known fable.

The Caids, or governors of cities, generally buy their places, with
the laudable design of ultimately getting the purchase money and
something more, back from the pockets of the devoted inhabitants;
who have justly been compared to those travellers that in crossing the
desert, are either devoured by beasts of prey, or have their blood
extracted by innumerable insects.

Whatever oppression may have been omitted by the Beys, is
most amply inflicted by the Caids; but the worst effects connected
with society in Barbary, are those which arise from its total want of
individual attachment or general unanimity, the usual result of des-
potism in all countries. Here each member of the community, who
may possess either wealth or power, lords it over his inferior ; and if
g-uilty of the greatest acts of violence, he easily finds protection and
indemnity from a higher authority. Such a crying system of injus-

312 THE CHIAUX.

tice, could only exist under the most perverse despotism ; for although
the prince's attention may be chiefly directed against the great and
powerful, his tyranny is regularly propagated through every depart-
ment of the state, untirit reaches the common executioner. Every
one makes a rule of revenging the injuries he has received from his
supeiiors on those below him ; and the more he is necessitated to stoop
before the former, the greater his punctilio with the latter, exerting a
degree of severity exactly proportioned to his own standard of servi-
lity and meanness towards those above him. It is not the uncon-
trouled despot of absolute power, that is most oppressive to his
people : those who chiefly torment and agitate them, are the inferior
tyrants, who, vain of that authority, which they aie in constant fear
of losing, ought to be considered as the real scourges of civil society.
It is almost needless to add, that wherever such a system of govern-
ment is tolerated, the eflect of petty tyrants is quite as injurious to
the monarch, as his people. Proceeding from its pure source, through
a hvindred obscure channels, and thence descending into various
ignoble hands, authority is ever sure to lose in force and dignity- : the
sun's rays are of gold ; reflected by the moon they become silver.

Amongst the oflicers immediately about the Dey's person, are
twelve messengers of state, called Chiaux : these are the infallible
executioners of his will and pleasure, being always in attendance,
either to convey a dispatch, or chop oft' a head. These satellites are
under the direction of two others, styled Bachiaux ; who constantly
wait on each side his highness while administering justice ; some are
Turks, and others natives : the former being employed in arresting or
punishing their own countrymen ; while the latter executes all orders
and decrees in which Moors are concerned. The Turkish Chiaux
would, in fact, consider it as a degradation, were he sent to arrest a
Moor ora Jew. They always receive the Dey's orders verbally, and
never in writing. Their dress is green, with a crimson band round the
middle, and pointed turban. The strongest and best looking men are
generally selected for this oflice ; and they are prohibited from

THE CHIAUX. 313

carrying anus of any descrijition, not even a knife : so that when
abroad, the Chiaux is not distinguished by the smallest military
attribute, and looks more like a peaceful citizen than the minister of
vengeance.

Notwithstanding all this, nothing can exceed the dread and
horror in which tliey are held by the multitude : this arises from the
inflexible resolution displayed by them in executing the orders of the
Dey : this is, of itself, enough to make a host of Moors instantly obey
the most terrible command they can give. At the very tirst intimation
of a Chiaux, the most resolute Moor will surrender, or lay his head
down to be taken off, whether innocent or not, though surrounded by
numerous friends. When the tyrant orders the arrest, or death of any
one who may have excited his anger, or violated the laws, the execu-
tioner departs, searches in every direction for the proscribed individual,
and does not return without either the body in chains, or the bleeding
head. Should an unforeseen event have passed between the messen-
ger and his victim, notice is given, that every subject of his highness
is to assist in his discovery, or to reveal the place of his retreat: the
person aiding or assisting in his evasion, makes himself liable to
the punishment of instant death if found out. The myrmidons who
attended the three famous inquisitors of Venice, will serve to give
some idea of the terrible executioners employed to put the inevitable
decrees of the Algerine despot into effect.

To rule with a strong hand, without the outward shew of military
force, or legal power, is no trifling acquirement in the art of govern-
ing. The sagacity of a legislator chiefly consists in a happy distri-
bution of his means, and the simple facility of putting them into prompt
execution. But this singular power of the piratical government,
without any appearance of an armed force ; and the extreme rapidity
with which sentences are executed without opposition ; is far from
being the result of a well regulated republic, equitable laws, or
acknowledged justice of the prince ; as proved in England, by the

314 SUBMISSION OF THE MOORS.

respect winch is shewn to the mere intimation of a constable. In
Barbary, it is rather the effect of a cruel tyranny, and that amazing
terror with which a government, made up of artifice and revenge, inspires
a degraded people. Although deserving our pity, when the causes
whence it springs are considered, the Moors are dissimulating as they
are servile; and while under the tyrant's lash, will smile and thank
his excellency, for having deigned to think of them ! "I," said a
rich Moor, " cannot reflect without an internal sentiment of glory and
satisfaction, that my head is suflered to remain on my shoulders,
through the bounteous clemency of my invincible sultan !" However,
the more acute observer does not think the people of Afi'ica contented
or happy, because neither opposition or revolt is manifested : they do
not even murmur or complain. But how are they to move, while
loaded with fetters, or speak with their mouths closed 1

That people who are allowed to complain, are not always the
most imhappy. It is much worse to be obliged to remain silent in
suffering, or as occasionally happens, be forced to praise the authors
of our oppression. Pliny observes, subjects never complain so little of
any sovereign, as of him, with whom they have most reason to be
dissatisfied. And Carnot, with equal justice, that in despotic coun-
tries, people suffer most and complain the least ; whereas, in free
states, the maxim is directly reversed. By a strange fatality in
our nature, those who have the greatest reason to be satisfied with
fortune, are the first to murmur against the most trifling disaster: —
as a rose-leaf, not gracefully unfolded, was sufficient to disturb the
effeminate Sybarite's repose. When a nation murmurs, and freely
declares its sentiments, it proves that neither misfortunes nor tyranny
have exhausted its courage or destroyed its virtue ; and that the soil
and constitution are still woithy of its best aflections.

This boldness and liberty of speech, whether employed to express
approbation or disgust of public measures, is not only a great
source of consolation but of happiness. A feudal lord, being told

KORAN THE RULE OF LAW. .315

that his excessive moderatioa rendered his vassals turbulent and
imj>etuous, answered : — " I know that the voice of poverty and
wretchedness is humble and timorous ; but, thank Heaven ! the free-
dom with which my people speak, proves them to be rich and
happy." Let not the Dey of Algiers, therefore, fancy himself either
a good shepherd or beloved prince, merely because the Moors appear
calm and tranquil : he would, on the other hand, do well to reflect
with a poet of celebrity, that

II silenzio dei popoli è la lezione dei re 1 . .

There is no civil code in existence amongst the people of Barbary,
its place being supplied by that of the Koran : so that all the doctrine
of Algerine jurisprudence, is confined to the interpretation of that
divine book and its sanctified commentatoi's.

It is, no doubt, a great blessing for a people to derive their laws
from a sacied source ; but the mischief in Algiers and other African
governments is, that the chiefs and doctors frequently interpret them
in a very different sense to their original intention ; and from the
princes being above the law, every facility for the most arbitrary
innovation is thereby created : besides, we all know, that justice in a
goverument purely military, is generally to be found at the point of
a bayonet, while the laws are written in blood. Nor would arms or
soldiers be required, if their often boasted laws were so venerated and
obeyed as they would make people believe.

Before a decree can pass into a law, the teftd, or signature of the
principal mulii, must be affixed ; and when a casna or new ordonnance
comes out, the pant, or public cryer, proclaims it with a large speak-
ing trumpet. This noisy method of making known the will of
government, without explaining to the people, as we do in Europe,
the meaning of any new edict, carries a degree of pride and despotism
with it, which enforces obedience without producing conviction.

In Barbary, custom is law ; and as no changes ever take place,
ss 2

316 I'HE CADI.

abuses of every kind continue to accumulate, without the smallest
advance towards improvement. This consoling state of degradation,
does not, however, seem to displease an indolent people ; who, ab-
sorbed in stupidity and slavery, are incapable of being roused from
their lethargic dream : like the companion of Ulysses, who, trans-
formed into a frog, was contented to remain croaking in the marshes.
But perhaps it would be of little use, and regarded by some as an
error, were any attempts made to awaken a nation so corrupt and
deo-enerate. Stagnant waters must not be agitated, lest their exha-
lations should spread pestilence and desolation around.

The Cadi is a species of lord chancellor, who has studied at the
seminaries of Cairo and Constantinople ; where, as in our universities,
the pandects of Justinian, which have been translated in Arabic, are
read. This dignitary is sent to the regencies by the Grand Seignor,
with the approbation of the Mufti. His power only extends to civil
causes ; he cannot leave the city without permission from the Dey ;
he is obliged to attend in court twice a day to take cognizance of
all disputes; and in case of difficulties, recurs to the Dey or Casnedar :
whenever his highness is disposed to decide a case without the inter-
vention of the Cadi, the Ulemas are first consulted.

There is one Cadi for the Turks, and another to decide between
the Moors : both have a number of inferior agents under them, called
Paips, who go on circuit in the country villages.

The Cadi is referred to in all cases concerning property. But
the only means of placing the latter out of the reach of the various
fiscal impositions to which it is constantly exposed, is to make a
waks of it, that is, bequeath it to a mosque, which only requires
a small annual tribute. Those, however, who act as guardians to
this kind of legacy, are the only persons who profit by so singular a
practice.

As the Cadi's post is generally bought, it is not very strange that
he should sell justice, which from its great value, ought not to be

JMODE OF DISPENSING JUSTICE. 317

jriveu away for nothing. His decisions are alike, without pity or
appeal ; and he is utterly insensible to the tears of the orphan or
widow. An English gentleman having complained of a dreadful
pain in the stomach, for which every remedy seemed inefiectual, the
celebrated Lord Erskine told him, that he ought to be made attorney-
general, as he would then have no bowels at all ! — I wonder of what
kind should those of an Algerine attorney-general be «

As the judges of Barbary are, without any exceptions, men of
the grossest ignorance, justice in this country ought to be lepresented,
as it was in Egypt, without a liead. Amongst a venal people, de-
prived of public opinion or moral sentiment, where there is, in fact,
no appeal, cliance must decide numberless cases ; while all are liable
to be indiieuced by a bribe. That which is still more annoying, arises
from the judges pronouncing sentence, jier fast et nefas, without the
smallest regard to the interests of either party ; while, by the way of
adding to the comfort of a litigant, he who cannot give clear and
satisfactory reasons for appealing to the judgment seat, receives a
good bastinadoing : nor is the successful opponent always spared,
particularly if he has given much trouble to the wigs. Upon some
occasions, when unable to get out of the labyrinth, created by
numerous and contradictory witnesses, the cause is abruptly terminated
by a liberal distribution of the bastinado to plaintiff and defendant,
council and witnesses. It is indeed no less extraordinary than vexatious,
that illiterate wretches should attempt to judge of the most important
questions, on the slightest examinations. It is not in Barbary, as at
the poet of Vaucluse's tribunal —

Piacemi aver vostre questioui udite ;
Ma pui tempo bisogna a tanta lite.

The great Chancellor D'Aguesseau's son, used to tell his father,
" I observe that although you know every thing, you decide on
nothing !" " Yes," said the minister ; " and I perceive that it is quite
the reverse with you." However, there are two sides to every question;

^18 MODE OF l>lSFENSlxNG JUSTICE.

and according to an old proverb, the devil is never so black as he is
painted : so it is with the civil procedure of Alii;iers, in which there
are some things even worthy of admiration. The head of the govern-
ment is indefatigaljly devoted to the personal administration of the
laws ; and seated in his hall of audience the greatest part of each day,
hears every applicant, and if possible decides immediately. Howsoever
this mode x)f the supreme chief's presiding might be inapplicable to
European forms, it has most certainly the efiect of preventing those
consequences of intrigue and partiality, which would otherwise render
the situation of these people absolutely intolerable: at all events, they
are satisfied in appearance ; and seeing the Dey officiate, is to them a
suflicient proof of his protecting disposition. There is, besides, a much
greater air of grandeur and ingenuousness in }>ublic decisions, while
thev can alone give a character of perfect impartiality to justice. Thesole
guide of law and interpretation being the Alcortm, this single volume,
together with the necessary witnesses, saves the labour and frequent
inutility of innumerable citations from obsolete books of jurisprudence;
while common sense is not sacrificed in the worse than useless parade
of antiquated form; and a cause cannot be obscured by a mass of
unmeaning authorities. Every one is also called upon to defend him-
self: and all things considered, if the party is endowed with a mode-
rate share of penetration, it is extremely difficult to find a more able
advocate, where the judges are not much better informed than the
generality of the people. It is also worthy of remark, that the legal
processes of Barbary occasion neither delay nor expences : by which,
as in some countries, the litigants merely ol)tain the shells, while a
third party comes in for the oyster. There is a curious story told of a
porter stationed at the door of the lower regions, who, on hearing a
loud knock, asked who it was ; and finding that the visitor happened
to be a lawyer, replied in an angry tone, " it is impossible to be con-
stantly opening the door for people of your calling, from whom we
never have a moment's repose; can't you wait until there are three or
four hundred, and then you can all come in together?" Dean Swift

MODE OF DISPENSING JUSTICE. 319

being asked, what side would be most likely to gain a cause if there
was a trial between a priest and the devil : answered, " the latter
most assuredly, as he would be sure to have all the gentlemen of the
gown on his side !" These are, however, mere jests; which none but
the very lowest dregs of the most dignified profession would take to
themselves. They are far from being directed at individuals of any
coinitry, much less those ornaments of human nahire and of the bar,
who devote their honest and disinterested labours to the defence of the
orphan and widow, the elucitlation of facts, anil discovery of truth.
At the same time, iew will deny, that where the number of advocates
is limited, and there is not a multiplicity of judges, such as of first
and second instance courts of ajipeal and cassation,* together with the

* It is scarcely possible to read these observations of Mr. Pananti, without calling to
mind the boasted excellence of the Code Napoleon ; which, like every thing else that came
from the "child and champion" of jacobinism, as he is very aptly called, has been
panegyrised to satiety by its fulsome admirers, or rather servile flatterers. To save the
trouble of quoting innumerable instances, wherein this famous code has struck at the very
root of retributive justice, I need only instance the delay which has taken place in the extra-
ordinary prosecution of Mr. Fualdes' murderers, than which a more crying instance of
unnecessary protraction has probably never disgraced the legal annals of any country in
the world ; nor can all the sophistry and chicane of the French bar, change public opinion
on the subject. The unfortunate Fualdes was most inhumanly butchered on the I9th of
March, 1817 : the assassins were taken into custody in April, and not brought to trial till
August. When, however, the most irrefragable proofs of guilt were brought home to the
accused, they were consequently condemned to suffer according to the enormity of their
crime. But lo, and behold ! the Court of Cassation at Paris, is appealed to.^What does
this most honourable junta do, but cancel the whole trial, merely for the sake of a few
puerile and technical formalities omitted in the prosecution ; which, let it be well recol-
lected, did not invalidate one particle of the main facts and allegations ! ! ! — Yet, singular
to relate, a new trial, in toto, is about to take place at Albi, a departmental town, about
eighty miles from where this assassination, exceeding in atrocity all that ever has hitherto
come under public examination, was perpetrated ! I will do the French people the justice
to add, that in this case, as in many others, they are certainly more sinned against than
sinning. — For except with those who must have felt a personal interest in lengthening out
the process, there has, from the onset, been but one sentiment entertained on the subject

;J20 MODE OF DISPENSING JUSTICE.

almost innumerable dependants and followers of legal establishments
in Europe : there is not only much less inducement for going to law,
but infinitely fewer people precipitated into ruin by protracted litiga-
tion. To those who have, in more civilized coinitries, sutFered the
" law's delay" to its full extent, I doubt whether the Algerine system
would not be almost preferable : it certainly has the merit of amazing
celerity, which cannot fail to be attended with proportionate satisfac-
tion in nine cases out of ten. Justice has sometimes been represented
with heels of lead, but it should not crawl like a snail. What a
dreadful source of vexation is not that of waiting the decision of some
courts i How much more conducive to the interest of society, were
it possible to fix a more speedy and determinate period for the termi-
nation of legal questions I Surely any arrangement on this important
subject, would be far better than those delays and appeals, which
have so frequently ended in redvicing families to beggary I

In a Barbary suit, there is really no time given for the operation
of intrigue or corruption ; as the longest trial seldom exceeds above a
few hours, and even this extent is rarely allowed. There is also
another great source of dangerous influence banished from their juris-
prudence ; that of scarcely ever suffering women to appear in courts
of justice : so tliat, like the courtezan of old, who artfully allowed
her veil to fall before the Areopagus, the Moorish ladies cannot very
easih' bring iheir charms into the tìeld of justice in Barbary. My
friend, the Cadi Moctaleb Salame, used to say, that to ensure perfect

throughout France. Indeed the sensation it created, and continues to create, is highly
honourable to the national character. How inexpressibly dreadful it must be to the family
of poor Fualdes, but more particularly his son, whose eloquent appeal to the court at
Rhodez, drew tears from every one present, — to be thus exposed to the danger of his
father's murderers being once more enabled to contaminate society ! The trial is full of dra-
matic horror and fearful interest. It is well worthy the attention of those who feel anxious to
simplify modern jurisprudence, and will be a lasting monument of how much the revolu-
tionary code-makers have left to be achieved by their more constitutional successors. — Ed.

CRIMINAL JUSTICE. 321

impartiality, all judges should be eunuchs. Although I feel, that it
would be rather unpopular to propose such a measure in Europe, yet
the project certainly merits some consideration : nor shall I attempt to
panegyrize the African mode of belabouring the defendant, plaintiff",
and council with the bastinado ; but the Cadi Moctaleb Salame told
me, we should obviate a thousand disputes, which are daily arising
from the cavilling spirit of litigation so prevalent amongst us, if we
could, by any means, impress the parties concerned, that a sound
drubbing was to precede the moment of trial : he added, that there
would be a most sensible diminution of briefs, were it once settled,
that when a frivolous, or unnecessary cause was attempted to be brought
into court, four or five dozen bastinadoes were laid on the whole party ;
not forgetting clerks, constables, warders, &c. — Such, at least, was the
opinion of Moctaleb Salame.

Public justice in Barbary is endowed with two very essential
qualities : it is prompt and inevitable. The guilty very rarely escapes
punishment ; and all are obliged to assist in the execution of the
laws. Homicide is invariably punished with death. Thieves, imme-
diately after conviction, lose the right hand, which is slung over the
shoulder ; they are then placed on an ass, and carried round the city,
preceded by a herald, who cries, " thus are thieves punished.'' It
frequently happens, that the culprit himself is obliged to explain the
cause of his chastisement. If a Christian or Jew is discovered to be
rather too intimate with a 3Iahometan woman, he is invariably con-
demned to die ; but previous to conviction, it is absolutely necessary
thathebetakeninj^rt(Or«rt/i delicto ; otherwise, if there is no commotion
amongst the people, the otficers of justice are satisfied with inflicting
a good bastinadoing. The lady is paraded round the country on an
ass, with her face uncovered, and turned towards the tail. This
ceremony over, she is put into a sack and thrown into the sea ; the
agents and abettors, if there be any, undergo a punishment exactly
similar to that of the real delinquents. For making false keys, or
forging the hand-writing of another.

322 CRIMINAL .lUSTICK.

hand, whicli is sometimes, by way of favour, commuted for tl»e left
The seditious, and those detected in a conspiracy, are strangled.
Fraudulent bankrupts, if Europeans, suffer strani^ling- by the hand:
if Moors, they are hung ; while Jews are burnt. Any person refusing
to settle with a creditor, is obliged to pay double the amount of his
debt : if, however, the claim is not properly invalidated, the aggrieved
party is entitled to the sum he would have paid, in the event of con-
viction. Debtors are imprisoned, and their goods sold ; the residue
of what they yield, after settling all demands, being scrupulously
restored to the owner ; but he is not liberated till a hundred and one
days after his arrest; nor does he get out of the hands of justice
without a smart specimen of the bastinado. When a creditor is dis-
posed to persecute any one who owes him money, he may prolong the
imprisonment by only demanding a part of his debt at a time, and suing
for another at the expiration of the hundred and one days.

Each district is made responsible for any robbery committed within
its limits : this accounts for the very few thefts known in Barbary, as
every one is continually on the alert to prevent them, it also renders
travelling extremely safe. In the markets and shops, the prices of bread
and vegetables are regularly fixed ; the execution of this law forms a
part of the Dey's oath when invested with the caftan. Ibrahim Dey,
having once dressed himself in the attire of a servant, took a slave,
and went to a shop, of which the proprietor had the credit of not
being over and above conscientious in selling his goods. On asking
to buy some bread and rice, Ibrahim told the shopkeeper, that they
were the slaves of a rich Moor whom he named, and had just come
from the country to pass a few hours at a neighbouring tavern ;
requesting him, at the same time, not to divulge the circumstance to
their master. The trader, knowing how much it was their interest to
conceal it, felt himself justified in charging double price for what
they bought. From thence, the Dey returned to the palace, and
having mounted his throne, the slave appeared before him as the
shopkeeper's accuser ; there was not much difficulty in convicting the

CRIMINAL JUSTICE. 323

latter of extortion and usury ; which was instantly followed by his
being sent to the gallows.

If a Christian is convicted of the foregoing crime, his head
is cut off by a Turk : the latter, when guilty of it, is served in
a similar way by one of the Christian slaves : a Jew, as in other
capital convictions, is given up to the populace, to form a species of
auto da fe ; while the Moors are suspended from the battlements of
the city.

The Dey's personal attendance, and constant practice of pro-
nouncing sentence himself, has a wonderful effect on repressing crimes,
while it tends most materially to satisfy the people, and maintain public
ranquillity. It is indeed an important truth, that the people are
contented in all countries, if you can but succeed in convincing them,
that the higher authorities are sincerely interested in their happiness.
Cheban ]Jey, observing a seaman eating something, which he kept
concealed under his bernousse, asked what it was i The man told his
highness, they were plumbs, which he had purchased from a native of
Marseilles : on this the Dey rejoined, " how could you buy such fine
iTuitI If you can afford to get plumbs, you would surely procure
bread in preference, therefore you must have stolen them : if they
were bought, you deserve a hundred blows of the bastinado, for having
gone beyond your means, and made your family suffer, merely for
the sake of gratifying your own gluttony." Soon after the merchant
was sent for, and on coming before Cheban, the latter asked him,
" what he had gained by his plumbs V the Marseillois replied, " that
he got very little, and had besides one of the finest baskets of them
stolen." " Would you know the basket again?" said the Dev. " I
should, please your highness," was the answer, and on producing
that found on the sailor, he recognized it as his own. The culprit
was then ordered to receive five hundred bastinadoes for the theft ;
and afterwards condemned to be hung, for having dared to tell a lie
to his master.

But if African justice be vigilant, prompt and infallible, it is

T T 2

324 POLICE.

miaccompanied by those admirable and necessaiy companions, mercy
and compassion : neither of these divine virtues belong to the
Mahometan character; and the Mufti as well as Cadi, place their
chief glory in the most rigorous interpretation of the laws, upon
which they are called to decide. The punishments of Barbary
have often been compared to those of China, which they fully ecjual
in severity : the bastinado is incessantly resorted to, and on the most
trifling occasion ; while some malefactors are thrown from the walls
on sharp iron spikes, where they are suffered to remain for whole days,
exhibiting a frightful and calamitous spectacle of human misery.
Whoever is detected in concealing an accused person, no matter
whether he is a relative or friend, the offender shares the same fate
as the guilty person. The voice of pity must, in fact, be totally
extinguished in this country, and every tender tie broken asunder.
The Dey has only to make a sign with his hand, and heads are severed
by the hundred. The prompt mode of execution has almost the instan-
taneous celerity of lightning. What \ country must that be, wherein
violence and despotism reign without control ; where, amidst universal
degradation, nothing is heard but the voice of despair, and clanking
of chains? The great Chatham once observed, " that a government
stripped of liberal institutions, and composed of uneducated men,
without honour, integrity, or virtue, is one of the most horrid and
disgusting spectacles which can present itself to the contemplation of
a civilized being."

Great care is taken to preserve order and tranc^uillity in the
Algerine capital, of which the police is at least fully equal to the object
in view. Besides a patrole, that goes round the city at stated
intervals, there are persons to watch over the shops and store-
houses : these are responsible for whatever may occur, and receive
a trifling compensation from the house-keepers for their trouble.
During market days, bands of soldiers visit the different quarters
of llie city ; and the Mezovard is constantly on the qui vive at
night, going wherever there is any tumult, and superintending the

POLICE. 325

conduct of prostitutes, who are the cliief sources of nightly irregu-
larities in Algiers, as well as some other capitals. The Dey, who
must be minutely informed of all that occurs, receives this officer's
report every morning. A police so extremely inquisitive as the
above, is, no doubt, troublesome to the people in many respects :
while it displays a degree of curiosity unworthy a more enlightened
government. The eagle will recommend its young to fix their regards
on the sun, and not deign to notice the insects who crawl along
in the dust: there are, however, many of the latter, but few of the
former.

As connected with the police department, there is perhaps
nothing so repulsive, in a government which professes to execute
justice without the outward shew of military force, as the necessity
it seems to be under, of recmring to the services of that degraded
race; who, not sufficiently courageous to assassinate, are glad to enlist
under the protital>le banners of espionage ; where they are enabled
to " smile and betray with impunity." Of this ver^-^ honourable class,
there is a prodigious number in Algiers; where even the very
walls have ears, and the most innocent expressions are construed
into " treasons, stratagems, and broils." I do not know, whether
it was not in this city, that a man being asked what o'clock
it was; turned ronnd, with looks full of fear and apprehension,
and then whisi>ered in a low tone, " it is half past ten, but don't
say I told you so !"

The Dey cannot bear to be ignorant of what is going on ;
and would even like to read the inmost thoughts of his subjects;
because he well knows, that the people hold him in detestation;
while his person is surrounded by plots and machinations. On
this account, there is no precaution omitted, or artifice spared to
save his person, and preserve his slippery power. " I am hated,
because they fear me," says the tyrant : the virtuous and good prince
replies, " they love me : what have I to fearl"

:mi

CHAPTER XVII.

Financial éiystem of Algiers. — Various Modes of raising Money. — Hints to
Modern Financiers. — 77^6 Hasena, or public Treasury. — Bejlections on the
Advantages of hoarding. — Different Sources of the Dey's Revenue. — His
praiseworthy Forbearance. —Anecdote of a Persian Prince. — Thoughts on
the Use of Public Money. — Military Force of Algiers. — Tlie Olduck, and
Ortes. — Zouavi. — The Aga. — His Functions, and Mode of being replaced. —
Account of the Aga del Campo, and Caia. — Mode of rewarding the Ser-
vices of old Officers in Algiers. — Their Privileges. — Boulouc Baahas, and
Vekilardi. — -Method of obtaining Rank and Promotion under the Algerine
Government. — Cursory Ideas on the Subject of Military Regulations in all
Countries. — Quarters and Allowance of the Soldiery. — Their Pay. — Punc-
tuality with which the Arrears are paid. — Ceremony observed on these
Occasions. — Gradual Increase of the Soldier's Remuneration. — Different
Modes of adding to it, and his Prospect of future Repose. — Account of the
Algerine Army. — By whom composed. — Bedouin Cavalry. — Annual Operations
to collect the Tribute, plunder the Tribes, ó(c. — Punishments awarded by
the Caia. — Order of the March. — General Treatment of the Soldiery. — Its
Effects. — Qualities of the Dey^s Army. — Its Operations left to the Direction
of the General. — Councils of War. — Mode of Encamping, and Order of
Battle. — Method of attacking, and re-forming when put into disorder. —
General Character of the Algerine Soldiers. — Anecdote of an Italian Chief.
— Character of the Turkish Militia. — Their Power over the Moorish Popu-
lation.— Reflections. — Allusion to the Victories of Cheban Dey. — Charac-
teristics of the Janizaries. — The various Advantages enjoyed by them over
other Soldiers of Fortune.

" I SHOULD like," said Mr. Rigby to Charles Fox, " in order
that we might be able the more easily to read men's minds, if every
one's heart had a window." " Aye, and to lay a tax on it, perhaps,"

TAXATION. ii27

said the statesman. Although the linancial system of Barbary
cannot be enriched by an imposition of the above nature, the political
economists of Algiers would most willingly avail themselves of an
equally improbable source of taxation, \\as any person to take the
trouble of persuading them of its efficacy. Ever ready to obtain
money by violence and extortion, the African financier is frequently
prevented from levying direct and regular imposts, owing to his
ignorance of those refined calculations and innumerable subdivisions,
which a European chancellor of the exchecpier finds so very convenient.
What some people call the art of raising, is, however, much better
managed in Algiers than in many other places : if, for instance, the
Dey is rather hard pushed, he has merely to give directions for the
strangling of two or three governors, and then seize their treasures ;
decapitating a few rich Moors, whose property may be also confiscated ;
he can next order an irruption of the Turks amongst the Bedouins
and independent Kaids ; or declare war against some of the weaker
European states ; and if not pacified by a well-timed tribute and
present, his cruisers will not be long in replenishing^ the treasury.
The last resource of his highness is generally found in one of those
intolerable oppressions called the Avarcas.

The Moors, whose predominant passion is an inordinate love of
money, would resist the most trifling addition to those imposts
already established on merchandize, or the necessaries of life ; while
they look with apparent indifference on the numerous oppressions and
confiscations, practised towards individuals : the first being considered
as the greatest vexations, while the second are regarded as no more
than acts of temporary rigour, and proofs of legitimate authority.
Amongst the more humane and civilized governments of Europe, it
is but fair to draw a few drops of blood from each member of the
community ; but no one likes to be skinned alive, by tax-gatherers,
as in Africa; where any person' who attracts the rapacious chief's
attention, is not only deprived of all his property, but generally

328 TAXATION.

thrown into a dungeon and loaded with chains into the bargain. It
is strange, however, that with so much less reason, the people of
Barbary should bear their weight of taxation, without half the
complaints we are daily in the habit of hearing in Christian countries,
where it is the constant source of weeping and gnashing of teeth.
Sir Robert Walpole having once received a proposal to lay a tax on
dogs : " No, no!" said the minister: " if I did that, I should have
every dog in the kingdom barking at me as I went along !" But what
is a financier to do, when every source of legitimate taxation is
exhausted i He may certainly have recourse to the proposition which
was once made, to levy a general tax upon rogues : which accord-
ing to the projector's opinion, would not only be the most productive
hitherto adopted ; but have the double advantage of very few people
being able to evade it : while such an equitable impost must, of
all others, be least calculated to excite public dissatisfaction.

The despots of Barbary are sole proprietors of that, which is
in other countries, the property of the state. In Europe, the old
maxim of " get money, honestly if you can ; but at all events, get
money !" is a little qualified ; and from long habit, has passed into a
standard rule of life : whereas the Dey of Algiers would most
assuredly reject all but the two first words of it; his policy being to
collect the needful, and take good care of it when once in his posses-
sion. This accounts for the amazing extent of the treasures he is
said to have amassed. It has long been a question with writers on
political economy, Mhether the precious metals are more advan-
tageously employed, when in constant circulation, than that a govern-
ment should keep funds, that would enable it to meet any emergency
that arose, without having recourse to borrowing at a heavy interest ;
which always leads to increased taxation I Many great men, and
amongst the rest, Sixtus V. Henry IV. of France, and Frederick of
Prussia, were of the latter opinion ; while another class of politicians
thought otherwise on the subject. No one can doubt, but that a well

IMPOSTS. 329

stored coffer must be highly beneficial, and always convenient : it
must, however, belong to the nation ; and not be left to the capricious
wants of the prince, or voluptuous luxuries of a court ; if it is
appropriated to the necessities of the state, and not to calm the
apprehensions of a man who governs; if proportioned to the
revenues and general means of the country, and accumulated by
wise measures of economy, proceeding from those imposts, which
are placed on abundance and luxury, and liot the result of rapacious
avarice and insatiable avidity.

When an extraordinary or unlocked for emergency occurs at
Algiers, the Dey, instead of applying to his own coffers, has immediate
recourse to a new and oppressive contribution. His highness never
dreams of building a ship, or constructing any works of public utility,
with the money he has thus wrung from the vitals of his people. The
only object a Dey of Algiers has, in collecting a treasure, arises from
the hope of being enabled to retire with it, in the event of a sudden
tempest, which might endanger his power or life. Were these chiefs
more just and beneficent, they would neither have occasion to hoard
or conceal their treasures. A prince who is beloved by his subjects,
is always rich, and can never want money. It being asked of the
good Henry IV. how much France yielded him ? " Whatever I
like," answered his majesty. " How can that be, Sirel" was rejoined:
" because in possessing the hearts of my people, I can at any time
connnand their money :" was the patriot monarch's reply.

The ordinary imposts of Algiers consist of a tenth in kind on
all the natural productions of the soil : this is levied under the inspec-
tion of experienced persons, who are regularly sent round the country
at harvest time. Tribute paid by the Berberi, and Bedouin tribes ;
projierty left by those who die without inheritors; duty of twelve and
a half per cent, paid on all imports, and two and a half on exports ;
the port charge of twenty dollars on each ves.sel that anchors in the
bays or moles of the regency ; price of the licences, called Teschera,
accorded for permission to export com, oil, or live stock ; the sale of

V V

330 MILITIA.

salt ; profits accruing from piracy ; presents, and tributes paid by
European powers ; and the usanza, or gratuitous bribes, in the first
instance, but so extremely palatable to the conscientious ministers of
Barbary, that once received, they are never relinquished afterwards.
There is, however, much to admire in the frugal habits of an
Algerine chief, and his extraordinary forbearance from dipping into
the treasures of the state. The economy of princes, is the greatest
favour they can bestow on their people. If courtiers enjoy the
sovereign's liberality, the people profit by his refusals. A prince of
Korazan, remarkable for the most unbounded generosity, having
become king of Persia, immediately changed his previously extrava-
gant mode of living ; and besides various economical reforms in bis
household, not only ceased to keep so splendid a court, but consi-
derably diminished the number of his donations to poets, painters,
and musicians: the auditors, treasurers, and chamberlains who fattened
on the former credulity of iheir master, having thrown out some hints
of dissatisfaction at the new arrangements, received the following
memorable reply from his majesty : " It was my own property, of
which I lately disposed so freely ; but I am now dispensing that of
my subjects !" The treasure of the state, says La Beaumelle, was at
one time called répargne, to lay up or save ; but since it has been
so profusely expended, we have become ashamed of that homely
title: hence its present one, of tresor royal ! Economy is praise-
worthy, if for no other reason, than its adoption afixuding us the best
means of being liberal to those who may want our assistance ; but as
a fine writer has observed, in speaking of the application of public
money, the taxes that princes take from their jjeople, ought to
resemble the vapours which are attracted from our soil by the god
of day, for the purpose of being again distributed in refreshing
dews.

The Algerine militia, which has so much influence on its political
destinies, is divided into regiments, or rather bands, called Oldacks,
and Ortes, into which none but Turks are admitted. The Moorish

AGA DEL CAMPO. 331

armed force is styled Zowak, or Zouavi, and commanded by Turkislj
officers ; an organization not unlike that of the Bengal Sepoys.

The Aga is commander in chief of the troops stationed at the
capital, the keys of which are brought to him every night; while
it is also his province to issue all orders, relative to military discipline,
the security of fortresses, &c. His continuance in office does not
exceed two moons; for which he receives two thousand patacha chicha,
and has a good table kept for himself, as well as those friends he may-
choose to invite, during his administration. The Aga is not permitted
to keep either wives or children where he resides : he is always on
horsel)ack when abroad, and preceded by two Chiaux, who cry out,
" make way : behold the Aga !" This office is considered as one of
repose, and is consequently, in most cases, given to old servants who
have deserved well of the state. By the very judicious method
obsei-ved in replacing the Aga every two months, either by a lias
Bacha, or one of the senior officers of the Oldacks, a spirit of emula-
tion and hope of advancement is excited amongst the soldiery, while
it creates a great increase of zeal, without giving rise to that extreme
discontent which is generated in more civilized countries by abuse
of patronage, and the too frequent preference given to hereditary
claims, or private favour, over merit and length of service. When
an officer is superseded in Barbary, he does not thereby forfeit either
his hopes or claims to another appointment : it is, on the contrary, an
additional inducement for the superior to profit, whenever a favour-
able opportunity presents itself, by those services which have already
proved useful to the community.

The Aga del Campo, of the field, commands the army when
employed in active service : his en second, is called Boulouc Basha,
or Caia. The Aga, or as he is sometimes styled, Caia del Campo,
presides at the general meetings of militaiy men, held opposite the
Dey's palace. Those who have retired from this distinguished office,
owing either to old age or ill health, are honoured with the title of
Aga Mezouli : they generally enjoy a large share of popular esteem,

u u 2

332 LENGTH OF SERVICE GIVES RANK.

and can appear in the divan, although unqualified to vote. In all
affairs of importance, the Dey also avails himself of their wisdom
and experience. Nothing is more satisfactory to the youthful candi-
date for military glory, than the flattering prospect of independent
and reverenced old age ; when the gratitude of his country is more
than a reward for all his toils and sufferings.

The inferior Boulouc Bashas, are employed as commanders of
regiments, and governors of fortresses ; they also administer justice
in the corps which may be under their command: they are principally
distinguished by a high cap, which is marked with a red cipher.
The Oldack Bashas, are those who command the Zouavi : these
officers are known by a leather belt worn across the shoulder : the
purveyors are called Vekilardi ; and, as may be readily conceived, are
not the richest part of an Algerine army.

People do not arrive at the highest posts in the militia, either by
sudden preferment, money, or protection ; but by age and service.
Whenever a vacancy occurs, the oldest officer is invariably appointed
to occupy it ; while the next in seiiiority takes his place. Thus, by
a common act of justice, and equity of arrangement, which could
hardly be expected in the military regulations of a barbarous govern-
ment, the promotion or removal of a single person, enables it to
move every officer of a corps up one step, at the same time ; without
that confusion, clashing of interests, and discontent, which aditferent
system must inevitably produce; not to mention its influence on the
physical efficacy of military bodies.

It cannot certainly be denied, that the above mode of advance-
ment may have the effect of impeding the career of those individuals,
whose characters are marked by a greater share of ambition, and
more enterprising talents than their less ardent companions ; but
then, it is the surest bar to that spirit of party, and disposition to
cabal, which so frequently destroys the harmony of European corps ;
often rendering them, the very focus of insubordination and tumult.
Those who advocate the paramount importance of advancing younger

MILITARY HONOURS. 333

men to military rank, have, while acknowledging the superior claims
of more experienced public servants, contended, that however important
a strict observance of gradual promotion might be in a period of
peace, it would be far from calculated to promote the national interests
in time of war ; when the necessary degree of courage, resolution and
enterprize, is most likely to be found in the young soldier. They
allow, that an old general may have more knowledge and experience;
but maintain the necessity of bringing forward that fearless courage,
blended with presence of mind, and contempt of danger, which more
generally distinguish the youthful candidate, and are frequently the
forerunners of important results and brilliant successes; which the
slow and calculating maxims of old age, jealous of risking its repu-
tation, is seldom found to achieve. A young officer of grenadiers,
who had distinguished himself, being once sent to announce a great
victory to his sovereign, solicited the cross of St. Louis, as a reward
for his services and mission : to this the king observed, that he was too
young ; upon which, the youthful hero replied, " but. Sire, I request
your majesty to recollect, that not one of our corps has yet arrived
at the age of forty." Thus it is, that arguments are always found for
and against those subjects, which at first may appear extremely simple
and incapable of controversy : for my own part, I am led to imagine,
that where strict justice and impartiality, is the undeviating rule of
action with governments, as it inevitably should be, the interests of
old and experienced officers, may be very easily consulted, without
damping the ardour, or preventing the advancement of those, whose
extraordinary merit may require immediate honours and rewards. If,
however, this enquiry has extended to a more minute examination of
facts, it would, I have no doubt, be found, that the number of persons
who are induced to complain of the too speedy advancement of young
officers, bears a very insignificant proportion to those who lament that
preference which they derive, not from personal merit or length of
service, but the very inadequate qualifications of interest and fortune.
Those soldiers who are not married, live together in a large and

334 PAY OF THE SOLDIERS.

commodious banack : they are well fed by the government, and have
Christian slaves to attend them : each man is allowed four small loaves,
which is more than he can consume, together with the privilege
of purchasing meat at a third lower than the market price : if he
marries, he not only loses the benefit of the quarters, but also that of
buying his meat at a cheaper rate, besides other advantages. These
regulations are imposed by the government, with a view of preventing
too close an union between the foreign soldiers and natives, whom it
is at present necessary to keep in the lowest state of subjection.

The pay of the Algerine soldiery is one of the principal objects
in the administration of government, being solemnly guaranteed by
the Dey, on ascending the throne. The time of settling takes place
every two months, when the arrears are paid up with the most scru-
pulous exactness : this ceremony is attended to by his highness, and the
principal officers of the divan. Everyman receives his pay in person:
this is either of gold or silver : each individual being called by name,
if any person be absent, he may get it the next time ; but is repri-
manded for not being present on the former day. No officer in the
state, from the Dey downwards, has any other fixed salary, than that
of the common soldier at its highest maximum, except the Aga of
the militia, and this only continues during the two mouths he is in
office. The soldier's pay is exceedingly small at first, but increases
fifty aspri every year, at the election of a new chief, or announce-
ment of a great victory : by this means, the degree of remuneration
goes on progressively for twelve or thirteen years, when there is no
farther advance : arriving at this period of service, it is called paga
chiusa, closed pay ; because it does not admit of any greater increase.
Having obtained the rank of Mezoul Agà, the Turkish Janizaries
enjoy this to the end of their days ; but he who abandons the service
without sufficient reason, not only loses his pay, but the esteem of
his companions.

When pay-day arrives, all the officers assemble in the hall of the
divan, the soldiers remaining in the court : the principal Aga having

PAY OP THE SOLDIERS. 335

taken his seat to preside, the Dey, as first soklier of the republic,
stands up on one side, and receives his pay like another : his only
privilege being that of having a double proportion, and being paid
first : after paying his highness, the Aga calls all the rest, who
are paid in regular rotation, according to their age and length
of service; the Caiti, or youngest soldier's pay, amounts to no
more than four saimi, or four hundred and six aspri, every two
months; while the oldest in service receive a number of aspri, which
are equivalent to about four sequins of our money .« It is by such
a mode of payment, that an Algerine chief is enabled to keep up a
large military force, with little more than two hundred thousand
piastres a year :t so tliat in a country whose government could not
exist one hour without an armed force, its regular payment has neither
the effect of absorbing the revenues of the state, nor endangering the
body politic.

The soldiery, particularly those who fill the higher offices, enjoy
a variety of pecuniary advantages Ijesides their pay : all participate
in the distribution of prize-money ; they also gain by plunder during
their predatory incursions to the interior : in addition to these, they
are at libeity to follow any trade, embark on board corsairs, or
devote themselves to commercial pursuits ; it being merely required
that they shall be ready to serve when called upon. Allien exhausted
by old age or ill health, the Algerine soldier retains his pay, and is
suffered quietly to pass the remainder of his days in tranquil retire-
ment. The bustle and fatigue of early life, sit comparatively light
on the mind, when thus assured of future repose and provision.

The Turks, who form the great sinew of the Algerine army,
seldom exceed fifteen thousand ; the corps of Chiloulis and Zouavi,
increase it many more ; while the Dey's call to the Bedouins, brings
in all those of the latter, whose sheiks happen to be well affected

* About two pounds.
1" Forty thousand pounds.

à3G TREATMENT OF THE SOLDIERS.

towards his highness : tliese are always mounted, carrying a long
lance, which, together with their horse, is managed as dexterously
as those of the Scythians and Parthians of old. On occasions of
great emergency, it is supposed that a popular chief could bring an
army of one hundred and twenty tliousand men into the field.
During the late expedition against Tunis, the Algerine army amounted
to nearly half that number.

In the spring of each year, three separate corps leave the capital,
for the purpose of collecting the tribute, plundering the tribes, and
increasing the territory of the Dey. In passing through the difterent
provinces they are joined l^y a body of volunteers from each. On
quitting Algiers, his highness appoints an Aga to command each
corps, w